>>2982899
>last one hit bump limit
this is a slow moving board, anon. it'll stick around for at least a month

>>2982899
>>2982911
three posts, no questions

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How do I replaced the termite damaged/rotten wood here? I think I can replace the full green marked beam, but the red marked beam goes into a building. Can you butt splice a wood beam with a metal plate or "C" channel? This is just part of a small awning and I can make temporary supports out of 2x4s.

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previous thread: >>2979762

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I have an old window screen that is so brittle from sun that it is really more of a suggestion to bugs they stay out than a barrier. I've replaced screen material before but, as this window gets full fucking sun all day, I have found that it doesn't last very long. Has anyone used metal mesh to replace their bug screens? If so, how well does it hold up to full sun and weather? Should I use stainless steel or aluminum?

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will placing these as my pathway in a lot of gravel be a good or bad idea? like how prone are they to cracking

>>2983040
>Should I use stainless steel or aluminum?
I've used aluminum for years and it's easy to install and lasts well.
I've never even tried stainless so I can't comment on it.

>>2983091
As long as the surface under them is cleaned and flattened it should be fine. If you just throw them down on top of the gravel then they could possibly crack.

>>2983116
Would add, usually people put down the pavers first and fill in between them with gravel

>>2983040
while a steel/aluminum replacement will certainly solve that issue, installing a awning may circumvent the problem and allow for better cooling.

>>2983116
yeah for whatever reason the pathway at my house that I just bought isn't finished but it has gravel out the front (which looks kinda bad ngl I plan to buy a shit load of lavender and plant it around the front
ideally I'd pour concrete to finish the pathway but mortgage lol

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Got some diodes for a 12v automotive for a solar application. I've never had the bare diodes, I should just solder them in line and heatshrink over them right?

>>2983091
>>2983126
consider doing a bag at a time pour of walkway tiles using a patterned form, paver mold or whatever they're called.

How do dual flush toilets work? I was going to buy a chinese conversion kit, but I think I need a special valve that it doesn't come with, and I'm not sure what to search to find it.

How important is primer for wood before painting? It's indoor use so it's not going to see any of the outdoor elements and it's not the whole thing being painted. It's just a section that I'm painting some words on.
>Wood: Pine
>Paint: Acrylic

>>2983179
With a lot of softwoods, very important.
If you just slap a coat of white paint on, it's not uncommon to have resin from the wood seep through after a few weeks or months.

>>2982924
You'd need to do a half-lap or similar, then add sisters to either side to reinforce the joint.

>>2983175
there are two halves one is set at a higher point in the tank so only ~half enters the toilet bowl. the other is lower s.t. it drains more of the bowl for a "full" flush. they're stupid and horrible and needlessly complex for what are already low flow toilets that don't use enough water in the first place.

>>2982924
get some long house jacks for starters, they are used for support in basements a lot. jack up and sandwich the horzontal board then T the top of the new post to support. or something. just overengineer the shit out of it.

This is a huge stretch, but I remember reading once like a pastebin or something from a guy who was stuck in a besieged city in a war in the balkans or yugoslavia or some shit, and wrote about how he survived, what kind of things were actually valuable, how trade and scavenging worked, etc. Does anyone have any idea what that might be? I can't find it again.

>>2983182
Fuck.
I did mean to say too that it's black acrylic, but it's not like it makes a huge difference. Looks like I'll just buy the primer, I'm sure it'll last and come in handy at some point anyway.
Thanks bro.

>>2983212
Just add another coat of paint. The function is virtually the same. Primer seals the wood; it's just usually cheaper than paint itself.

>>2983147
you have to post what kind of diode you have and what kind of diode you replaced. Not all diodes are just "check valves" some work in both directions

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>>2983234
>>2983212
>just add another coat of paint
Unfortunately no not always that simple. Knots and any spots with pitch of any kind (fella said softwood) loves to creep and show through paints.
When painting pine, I use shellac (by itself or white shellac sealer) or another primer first. Paint does not seal the wood in the same manner.
I've had pitch from knots creep through everything from household acrylics to exterior house paint to high performance enamels. If resins are involved, use a primer.

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>>2983147
Make sure they're in the right direction. Also like >>2983268 said make sure they're the right kind of diodes for the application, but for most typical uses a 1N400X or similar is probably fine.

>>2983212
Okay, yeah black paint you may not see the staining, but the paint will lift eventually.
>>2983234
Nah, the resin that oozes out is nasty, it'll lift most paints.
>>2983272
Yeah, I use "Kilz" if it's got some sap checks, knots or anything like that.

>>2983183
>>2983205
>half lap
>sisters
>house jacks
>t-top
>BEEF
Got it. Thanks, guys.

are oil and gas jobs booming right now because war in iran?
what are some jobs with most/least toxin exposure?
i imagine jobs with a big company are much less dangerous than smaller third party companies the can just shut down and close shop incase of a major accident/injury

what are some semi-chil labor/engineer jobs? i imagine they all involve 3foot pipe wrenches, but i would rather not have to be using them for 12hours straight.

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is this good? I hope my manager lets me take it home for 100$

>>2983097
Thanks.

>>2983117
That is on the list of things I need to do but screen material is much cheaper than awnings and I need to solve this problem first.

I have a detached 30x40' garage. I am looking to insulate it this spring.
if budget allows, I want to use rockwool, otherwise the cheap pink stuff will do.
my goal is to be able to heat the place easier in winter time. I got a 150k kerosene heater which i will be replacing with a 5600k electric.
anyway, the roof and suffetes have no vents. Do I need to have vents before I put up insulation in the walls?
I am going to insulate the roof, but at a later time. I want to install skylights so I think paying a pro to get the vents and skylight done at the same time might be best. I dont wanna mess with the roof or asphalt shingles. i am not a heights person.

so question is this, can I put in insulation, and OSB boards prior to installing roof and suffete vents

>>2983448
Reconsider the skylights. Nothing more than a chance for a leak. Get some nice bright lights and use those instead.

T. Not a fan of skylights in case you couldn't tell...

>>2983448
Insulating the roof will do more for retaining heat than the walls. First make it wind and weather tight (easiest/cheapest/best bang for your buck), then insulate the roof (most effective/next best bang for your buck), than insulate the walls. If you have any shitty windows, upgrading them with dual pane/high insulation value replacements can also be a big improvement.

>>2983451
I agree. Having delt with roofing bullshit I can tell you that the fewer holes you make the better off you will be. Even things like plumbing vents, chimneys, roof vents, anything you can route around the roof you should. Every hole you make is not only a source of a potential leak but it is also a source of maintenance. You have to check the seals on that shit every year.

If you are "not a heights person" I would definitely reduce the number of reasons you have to spend time up there.

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I want to learn woodworking to make some cool stuff like small furniture or wooden trays or maybe some fancy shit like a pipe.
But I'm honestly kinda weary or spending big bucks on some decent quality power tools and maybe not being 100% into it.

Ceramics looks cool too, but one of those ovens / kilns is even more expensive.

Wat do fellas

>>2983463
You don't need power tools for woodworking. There isn't anything on earth you can cut with a table saw or drill with a drill press that you can't cut with a hand saw or drill with an eggbeater drill. Especially if you want to make small stuff. Cutting a few panels for a tray is easy by hand. Look up Paul Sellers on YouTube and the Woodwright's Shop on PBS.

Also, buy used. A Disston hand saw from before 1955 and a triangular file to sharpen the teeth can be had for next to nothing if you know where to look and keep an eye out. Estate sales, flea markets, garage sales, Facebook Marketplace, Craig's List, thrift stores, whatever. I've literally paid as little as a dollar for one. As long as the handle is in good shape you can fix whatever else is wrong with it.

>>2983448
what >>2983454 said
air leaks are the biggest heat losses so seal everything that you can. spray foam is stupid expensive and has a shit r value but is the best way to plug up a drafty building. typical would be 1" foam then fiber batts over it. but it makes any construction later a giant assache

>>2983463
i started woodworking a month ago (mainly cleaning up my shed honestly), and so far i bought 2 power tools.
you only need tools that you need. if you don't have any tools, list stuff that you want to do, then list tools that you need to make that, then start with the ones that take the least tools.

How do I drill an alu profile without the drill bit slipping when I begin drilling?

>>2983425
>take it home for 100$
>Made in Israel

See if you can Jew him down a little...

>>2983525
1 center punch
2 pilot hole

>>2983531
.5 - Sharpen drill bit.

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Are these orange/brown splotches moss in my lawn or some kind of fungus? I think it's moss but wasn't totally sure.

>>2983454
I willl do the roof but at a later time. i need to do the walls first.
my question is do i need roof vents before wall insulation

I want to put some posts in next to a cinderblock wall to raise up a high trellis for some vines for privacy. How far from the wall should I offset the posts?

>>2983652
uh okay so first it's soffits. second the reason for roof vents is because the roof is unacclimated space. an attic is a separate environmental space that is cold in the winter and hot in the summer. there is no exchange between the attic space and the climatized space in a building. the point of roof and soffit vents is to remove moisture.

in an unfinished structure your goals are slightly different, you probably want to reduce heat from the roof radiating into the space in which case something like cell foam psuedo ceiling with "soffit" vents inside and a ridgeline / ridge vents on top will keep the hot air moving out.

as long as you aren't using propane to heat the only reason to do one or the other first is mechanical, e.g. if you drywall over where you're going to want a vent.

maybe post more details about the space and where you are (arizona vs oregon) and snap a pic inside of the structure.

>>2983674
six inches

>>2983268
>>2983273
20A 1000V Rectifier Diode EE1023 MIC

it's not replacing anything I'm adding it to a shitty small solar panel to trickle charge and the solar panel is reported to have a draw when it's dark.

so
[solar panel][+wire][diode ||][+wire][battery+]
[-wire][battery-]

meaning diode stripe toward the battery?

>>2983680
>meaning diode stripe toward the battery?
Yes

I need my basement door to be able to be locked. I installed a new door handle mechanism (original was fucked + keys are all missing) but now the key hole is too small. Can I file it down or something? what power tools would be ideal? Should I buy a different one? It is from 1889 and feel bad mangling it just so I can lock the door

>>2983720
Use a bar like a 1889 door deserves.

>>2983720
if you got a new handle because the keys were missing how is the new keyhole too small for the new keys?

>>2983734
I thought he meant the keyhole in the door itself

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Any ideas on how to shape these hot glue sticks?
I tried bending it and keep it in hot place over night to hold the shape, but it didn't work.
I don't have the tools to remelt it completely not to mention I don't have a way to make a mold.

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How to troubleshoot this overheating issue?
>car starts fine
>when idle the heat gauge never go over mid point
>after driving for long time +2 hours or at high speeds
>heat gauge stay around mid point
>when pulling over or stopping, the heat gauge starts going up
>These actions do bring it down
>revving the engine to 2000 rpm
>driving around
>turning the AC on heat and max the fan speed
I checked these
>the radiator fan is spinning
>the coolant level is OK
>No check engine light
Starting from cold engine and let it idle for a while, or going on short drive doesn't make it overheat, the same with turning the AC on max cold settings.
Few weeks ago when it was cold, I could hear some bubbling behind the dashboard though, if this make a difference.

>>2983759
What kind of shape are you trying to put them in?

>>2983760
You're most likely better off asking on >>>/o/

>>2983760
>turning the AC on heat and max the fan speed
that's because you're taking away the heat from the engine through the heat exchanger. this is, by the way, the correct thing to do if your engine suddenly starts overheating (and you can't shut it down)
>the radiator fan is spinning
which one?

it honestly could be a number of things:
your fan isn't actually spinning (there's more than one)
stuck thermostat
water pump is on the way out and isn't pumping fast enough (revving the engine makes it spin faster)
water pump is slipping on the belt (revving the engine makes it catch on slightly)
air in the coolant system
and so on

>>2983760
Check for an airlock in coolant system. Make sure your fan clutch (if you have one) is locking up tight when hot.

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>>2983761
>What kind of shape are you trying to put them in?
Something like pic.
I tried melting it and hand shape it but this was stupid idea, because the working time is too short.
The shape isn't easy and too big to make a mold of.
I know there is 3d printing service but these cost too much.

>>2983763
>which one?
Good question.
The one behind the radiator? I didn't see any other fan.
It's kia rio 2019 so I don't see any other fans.
>air in the coolant system
How to bleed that out?
The last maintenance the repair shop added some coolant since mine was a little low.
Could this be an early sign for a problem or they fucked something up?
>>2983766
I have no idea what all these mean or how to do it.
It's Kia rio 2019.

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Not exactly diy-tier, but I imagine some of you will know:
How was this part made? It's injection molded, and has all the ejector pin marks on the backside (right on picrel) but these angles make it seem like it would get wedged inside the mold, making it impossible to take out.

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>>2983775

>>2983720
some pics to help with...
>>2983734
>>2983739

>>2983774
yeah it looks like you have only one fan. when it spins, does it spin with such a speed that you feel it'd slice your fingers into fine slices if you were to put your hand in there?
>How to bleed that out?
ghetto method is to park on an incline with the engine fully warmed up, with the engine being on the higher end, and remove your radiator cap. then wait and top up if needed
however judging how you seem to have very little car knowledge, i would strongly advise for you to invite someone who knows more about this for a few beers and snacks, and not do it yourself

>>2983775
>>2983777
what do you mean wedged inside the mold? that looks like it'd slide right out

>>2983777
The top half of the mold is tapered, when the mold is pulled apart, the fins cause the product to stick in the bottom half. The ejectors pop it out of the bottom half of the mold.

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>>2983783
Don't they put those pins on the deeper side of the mold? If so, wouldn't it look like this.

>>2983785
the walls in the picture you posted look straight. why do you think it's wedged?
anyway it doesn't matter from which side the hot plastic is coming from, as long as one part of the mold die can slide out.

>>2983781
>when it spins,
It spins when I turn the heat on, this didn't happen before.
I'm in my garage right now.
The fan used to spin, now it only spin when I turn the heat.
So this is an electrical issue?
>the engine fully warmed up
And do the exact thing the label on the cap tell me not to do?
>very little car knowledge
I have average intelligence, and I want to be aware of the problem just in case.
I don't want to be scammed.

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>>2983785
>>2983784
>The top half of the mold is tapered, when the mold is pulled apart, the fins cause the product to stick in the bottom half.

>>2983787
>The fan used to spin, now it only spin when I turn the heat.
>So this is an electrical issue?

Sounds like the fan switch (the one that monitors the coolant temperature) is bad.
It's usually simple to replace. Do it when the coolant is cool and the radiator cap is off to relieve any pressure.
Be prepared to lose a little coolant.

>>2983787
>The fan used to spin, now it only spin when I turn the heat.
so it doesn't spin by itself when the car gets up to temp? that's your problem then - the fan should be turning on to force air through the radiator if you're stationary/slow moving, when the coolant reaches a certain temp. as for the reason, i dunno. maybe a temp sensor is malfunctioning or a relay or something. i'm not an electrician or a mechanic so that's all i can say.
>And do the exact thing the label on the cap tell me not to do?
anon, it's there so they can deny insurance, not because it'll make your car blow up. you think mixing redbull with alcohol is a death elixir cause redbull says so? anyway don't do it.
>I don't want to be scammed.
great way to go through life, unironically. that's why i suggested you get a mechanically inclined friend to look at it in exchange for a beer, and not a pro mechanic who will want to take as much money from you as he can

>>2983791
OK, what's the chance the fucked up something when they added coolant the last time I serviced the car?
Can such issue make the coolant level go low?

>>2983794
Not likely to mess it up adding coolant. The wire to the switch could be knocked loose.
No, a bad switch won't make the coolant go low unless coolant is leaking around the switch.

>>2983789
Ah okay

>>2983791
>>2983791
>fan switch
>>2983797
I looked up a Kia Rio for a switch. It seems to not use a switch directly. Instead, the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses the coolant temperature sensor to decide when to turn the fan on.
Same issue, just a temp sensor instead of a direct switch.
All of my vehicles are pre 2000

>>2983797
>>2983799
I thought the system is closed how would it lose coolant?

>>2983799
>I looked up a Kia Rio for a switch. It seems to not use a switch directly. Instead, the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses the coolant temperature sensor to decide when to turn the fan on.
Why there's no check engine sign then?

>>2983801
>Why there's no check engine sign then?
If the sensor has some resistance but doesn't change with the temperature, the ECM doesn't know it's not working.
The one's I've tested change resistance with the change in temperature.

>>2983800
through a leak, obviously

>>2983800
it pukes out the overflow when it overheats
i bet the plastic blades on the waterpump are fucked

Is there a way to make thin sheets of metal perfectly safe to handle?
Recently I picked up a sheet of alu at a store and almost cut my finger.
I need a sheet of some rigid material, and alu or 316 steel would be perfect, but if there's no way to make handling them 100% safe I'd have to resort to acrylic or polycarbonate of higher thickness.

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>>2983887
see >>2954237

>>2983887
Gloves.

>>2983889
Yeah, just got a deburring tool.
>>2983890
That was so obvious I wonder why I didn't think of this option.
(No, I actually know, I'm one of those retards who pretends he doesn't need PPE)

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>>2983724
a bar?

>>2983734
the actual handles and etc are all still original, including the metal plate thing that goes on the door over the new key hole. The only thing I changed was the mechanism that moves the door latch when turning the handle (which also has the deadbolt + deadbolt lock mechanism). The key hole on the metal plate thing is way smaller than the new keys. I changed the mechanism on a few other doors and the new keys are just barely small enough to fit, but they do fit and function without modification to the original plates. The key hole on the basement door plate is much much thinner than the plates on all the other doors, like 1/3 or thinner

>>2983780
picrel looks really close to my basement door. Except I have one key hole not two

>>2983896
Yes, anon, a bar that goes across the door.

>>2983760
when my car did this it's cuz I mixed the coolant wrong (not nearly enough coolant mix and way too much water). Drained the coolant, mixed new coolant properly, then it worked normal again

are metal vices more versatile than wood vices

Does anyone actually use jack stands? I don't think I ever have and I don't think manufacturers want you to, either. They say "jack up your car at these specific points" then "support with jack stands", but they never tell you where to put them. You can't put them at those jack-up points because the jack is there.

>>2983953
Yes.
>>2983970
No.

>>2983977
what if i'm doing woodworking but also need a general purpose vice

>>2983980
Pad your jaws with scrap wood/plastic when clamping wood in your metal vise or get some soft jaws.

>>2983981
if metal vices are so great why do people get wood vices

>>2983982
Same reason anyone does dumb shit.

>>2983982
because a wood vice is cheap, you realistically only need half a vise really, because the other "jaw" is your table. you can just make one by yourself, hardware is like 20 quid. the other advantage is that you wont fuck up wood from clamping too hard because it's wood on wood.
in every other category a metal vice is better. the only downside is the price

>>2983970
I always use jack stands because I got my jack from the trash. I usually put them under the lower control arms or torsion beam. Those are designed to hold the weight of the car and they're easy to locate.

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poured concrete on a 100F day and did a real shit/drunk job troweling towards the end. how do i fill in these gaps? they seem a little deep for vinyl patch.

can i add grout mix or sand to vinyl patch mix?.
can i just fill in with grout and acrylic concrete adhesive or will it flake away?

tis a skatebord ramp.

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some of these spots are well within 1/2in to 3/4in deep.
my original plan was just to seal with more paint :p

>>2983992
>>2983993
fucking hell. is this a flat level surface? pour self leveling concrete on it, otherwise some fine, quick setting cement mix or a concrete repair mix or whatever it'd be called. or scrape it and a do over.
the biggest improvement i see here is don't be fucking drunk.

>>2983970
>Does anyone actually use jack stands?
Yes. Anytime we have to work under the vehicle.
>>2983970
>You can't put them at those jack-up points because the jack is there.
Place the jacks near where you want the stands to go.
Let down on the stands and keep jacks in place.
Usually on RWD vehicles I put the jack under the differential and put the stands out near the wheels.

>>2983991
You're supposed to put the jackstands literally under the jack

I'm moving into my first house soon and I'm wondering what are some essential tools I should get?

hammer
drill + bits
manual lawn mower (my yard is tiny)
tool case

anything else?

do people really pour concrete on gravel as a low cap concrete pad
could it be used to park a couple bikes in the dirt
does it break as soon as a car rolls over it or what

>>2984110
i "poured" leftover concrete that i had on my driveway that was full of gravel and broken old concrete. it took 2 years for it to become messed to fuck, even the footpath.

>>2984110
Pour it thick and it'll last. That is the #1 issue I usually see with concrete is people try and get away with less than 3" thick or some bullshit like that. Pour it 6" thick and it will stay together. Of course a decently compacted surface to pour on is another factor too.

>>2984110
the more time and effort you put into sub surface prep, the thinner you can make the pad. compacting ground, adding rebar, etc

>>2984112
shoulda added some
additional portland cement to that mix of leftover shit.

>>2984133
it doesn't really matter, i had to dump it somewhere cause i had too much and didn't want to end up with a mound of concrete

>>2984125
the whole reason to it like this is to do it in a planned obsolescence kinda way where you can easily get rid of it if you need to

Do collated screw guns need different length bits for different length screws? Got an old Makita on the way from ebay (which I expect to have either a worn/rusty bit or no bit at all) but all documentation for the 6833 appears to have been scrubbed from the internet so I have no clue what length bits it needs.

>>2983970
I would never go under any vehicle without jack stands. I store my pop up camper on jack stands in the off season.

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>>2983970
>support with jack stands

Yes

>>2984267
Yo, we herd yu like jacks so much, we put a jack on uer jack

How do I know what size bolt I need when there's no manual?
It's not just the size it's that it needs to be the right thread too. Usually there's some kind of manual that will say what parts come with it, sizes, all that shit, but in this one it doesn't.

>>2984274
what's the manual for?

>>2984275
A drill press. I've tried googling the press and looking up parts that way and still nothing.

>>2984276
what're the boltss for, to attach it to a surface? i'd just eyeball it then, probably. post the model and which bolts are you talking about and maybe someone will have an idea

>>2984278
It's this here
>https://dccf75d8gej24.cloudfront.net/documents/CDS3%20Drill%20Stand_Rev%201_(060220224)_(6500224).pdf
I don't actually know what the part is called, I assume the head assembly. It's so you can slide the head assembly(?) up and down and the bolt is just for locking it in place.
Like I say it doesn't specifically say what kind of bolts are used other than you need Xmm wrench for certain ones.

>>2984281
you mean the bolt that is visible being tightened with a hex key, page 4 figure 3?
the machine should come with the bolt already present, if it didn't i'd return it. unless you bought it used or something, then i'd go to a hardware store and buy any hex bolt with a 10mm nut that's about the same length

>>2984282
>you mean the bolt that is visible being tightened with a hex key, page 4 figure 3?
Yeah that's the one.
>i'd go to a hardware store and buy any hex bolt with a 10mm nut that's about the same length
Thanks I'll do that, it seems like the easiest option.

Will dremel attachments fit on a bauer one?

>>2984367
Probably, I know Ryobi and Dremel are interchangeable

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I have an irrigation well outside, it's a submersed pump thats hard wired to electric so when you hit the switch it runs nonstop. I'd like to have it only run when water is called for so I don't have to turn it on any time I want to open one of the spigots and walk over and turn it back off when I'm done.
So my plan is to add a T pipe with a pressure switch, but I can't find any that are sealed, and this well head is outside away from any buildings. I don't want to build some kind of elaborate pump house with roof shingles and 2x4s. what are my options for keep water out of this thing?

>>2984428
Tee into the cold water supply inside the house near the manual switch.
You could even add this pressure switch across the current manual switch so the manual switch could override the pressure switch.
A small holding tank like an anti-hammer tank would probably help too.
One problem might be the pump running continuously without you knowing because the check valve was leaking.
Maybe add a small light to the circuit to alert you to when there is power going to the pump wire.

>>2984428
>I have an irrigation well outside,
>>2984432
>Tee into the cold water supply inside the house near the manual switch.
I wasn't paying attention.
Still, put the pressure switch next to the manual switch which I assume is protected.
Run a suitable flex line of some sort to the tee which you added at the closest point near the switch.

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>>2984434
the current switch is just picrel mounted on a 4' post. no coverings nearby at all that would protect a pressure switch. its really surprising to me nobody makes a sealed pressure switch, I couldn't be the only one looking to do something like this.

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>>2984428
>>2984434
>>2984435

Here's another idea.
Mount the pressure switch inside the box with it plumbed through the bottom.
Wire could go through the bottom to for easier weather protection.

>>2984436
solid idea, I hadn't thought of that. thank you

>>2984437
These come in several versions. Look for the one with the gasket around the lid and O-rings on the lid screws.

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>>2984428
there are loads of sealed switches out there. you probably want to use one to switch a contactor rather than directly connected to the motor leads
the low pressure ons are sold as oil pressure idiot light NO and close at like 20 psi so you have to figure out what pressure you want on the system

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Is there enough room for me to cut that copper pipe and put another valve? All I have is an oscillating multi tool to do the cut

>>2984490
i'm not sure where to start with this, no offence
a proper pipe cutter is like $10
no i wouldn't try to mess with cutting that tiny piece of copper when you can just unscrew it from that valve and do it right
also what are you even trying to accomplish that has you installing a new valve off an existing valve? is this valve leaking? if so you can take out the end cap there and replace the sealing washer in it

>>2984506
It's leaking and kind of busted so I was going to replace it, but it looks like it's welded to the copper. I'll see about replacing the sealing washer

>>2984509
ok cool, yeah i'd just rebuild it, you can replace all the internal pieces and the handle and leave the housing be, that would get it back to new without opening up a can of worms. don't forget to counterhold the housing with something as you unscrew that cap under the valve handle so you don't break off the pipe inside the wall

>>2984510
I think you saved me a headache. Thank you!

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ib was fucking around with refilling a 1lb propane bottle and as soon as i touched the vent valve it started leaking and wont reseal. i tried the burst reseat then oil them super glue but none solved the weep leak
i wrote this bottle off but want to know if theres a trick to having that pull to open schrader vent valve consistently reseat for refilling?

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I just moved into a place with a gas furnace, and it has a separate blower fan assembly bolted on top of it. I've never lived somewhere that didn't have a furnace hidden somewhere and have heat come out through ducts.

how the FUCK does this thing work? It's just a mostly empty stamped metal box with a squirrel fan in it. How does the heat get to it? The heater has a flue and exhaust that goes up through the ceiling and to the outside, but from what I can see there's zero connection or communication between the actual heat itself and this little box with a fan inside of it.

Does residual heat just go up "through" the metal panels between both units and the fan just blows that heat? How is not all my heat going up through the flue and outside if there's not a single pipe or duct or anything that channels heated air through the heater and anywhere near the actual fan thats blowing the heated air out?

>>2984564
Furnaces have heat exchangers which vent the combustion air outside.
The efficiency of the heat exchanger is how they are rated (80%, 90%, etc.) in addition to the BTU rating.
The heat from this type of furnace vents up through a grill on top.
The fan box has a hole in the bottom for heated air to enter the box and the fan blows it out into the room.
It would work without the fan but you'd need a ceiling fan in the room to distribute the heated air around the room.

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>>2983677
here is the space.
Roof insulation will be put in after i put in drywall in the ceiling. i'll need to do lights and such. i'll probably pay a guy to come and spray attic insulation up there. i'll will also make a little storage space up there in the center between the rafters. idk yet, walls first.
the garage is full and i can only shuffle things around enough to do a quarter of it at a time.

I need to figure out the venting situation and when the vents need to be installed.

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Apartment ceiling fan light tripped the breaker out of nowhere. Been fine for years. One breaker is dedicated to the room plugs and ceiling fan. 2 wall switches, one for fan and one for light. Breaker is only tripped by the light. I unplugged all other appliances in the room, reset breaker, and when I turned the ceiling light on it turned on for a split second and tripped the breaker again. Currently I have everything plugged in to walls like normal and use the fan normally and just keep the light off. Everything works fine.

Don't know anything about electricity but I have a multimeter. Not sure if a dying bulb could cause this because I've never had it happen. Any testing I can do or any obvious cause based on the info? I can obviously call maintenance if necessary but was wondering if it could be a simple fix.

>>2984696
>troubleshooting a bulb
for what purpose? just replace it. probably a short or something.

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Am I gonna fuck myself up trying to replace this hardware in an old bathtub? The faucet must go because it’s rusted and eroding, but when I try to twist it off, the entire structure - including the handle/diverter - seizes in that direction. Is there a name for this particular setup so I can buy the right hardware all at once and do you all think access from behind will be necessary (heh)?

>>2984735
>but when I try to twist it off, the entire structure - including the handle/diverter - seizes in that direction.
do what
> do you all think access from behind will be necessary
there is no behind, unless you live in america with paper walls or something. this looks like a typical concealed shower faucet/mixer setup, but instead of that you have a spout. both of the elements in your pic can be disassembled from the front, theoretically.

>>2984586
There is literally no hole, vent, or any way for air from inside the main heater to get into this box with the fan. There is the solid metal panel from the top of the heater that butts up directly to the solid panel that makes the bottom of the blower box

>>2984748
pics or it didn't happen

>>2984746
I am in America and there’s actually a closet behind it, so I could tear into the drywall there - it’d just mean removing some shelving which I didn’t want to do unless I had to. Thank you for the earnest reply.

>do what
I was trying to “unscrew” the faucet itself from the pipe since it doesn’t have any sort of hidden screws or anything else securing it. It just feels like I’m gonna break something if I try to force it.

>>2984760
try to uncover the mixer and see what's what. the mixer looks like it's 50yo
try running hot water through for a minute or two, then try unscrewing the spout
if that doesn't help, penetrating oil
if that doesn't help, strap wrench
if that doesn't help, strap wrench and a pipe inside the spout for lewerage
if that doesn't help, either a professional or a backdoor, although i reckon a professional would be cheaper than demoing part of a wall

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>>2984735
>Is there a name for this particular setup so I can buy the right hardware

Single handle tub/shower faucet

Use pliers to start breaking away the spout shell.
Once you get down to the center you should be able to use a saw or grinder to weaken the female threaded part to be able to use heat or penetrant to get it off.
Once you have it off, clean up the threads and put a replacement diverter/spout on and let the rest be.
These older sets just came with the valve and a spout and it was up to the plumber to decide what distance between the valve and spout.
The riser tube for the shower is screwed into the valve and attached at the top to keep it from moving.
You'll have to tear out enough of the wall to get it all out or cut the riser pipe (probably copper) and sweat it back together when you put the new valve in.
Just replace the spout and if needed, new seals or cartridge in the valve.
If it's a Delta (the crystal handle looks like a Delta) just a couple of rubber seals is probably all it needs.

>>2984735
>>2984735
>but when I try to twist it off, the entire structure - including the handle/diverter - seizes
>>2984768
>Use pliers to start breaking away the spout shell.
I forgot to mention: I have had some spouts that had a set-screw on the bottom of the spout next to the wall.
Use a mirror to look under it to make sure there is no screw there.

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>>2984748
>>2984754

again, I didn't set this up and I dont know how this stuff works but I feel like it should be what you said, the heated air has to get to the fan some how but there's nothing except a small cutout for what looks like a thermistor or something that makes physical contact with the top metal panel of the heater that controls the auto on/off for the blower

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Hey ((anon)), I'm considering a career change into heavy duty mechanics. I'm sure it's hard on the body (what trade isn't), but does anybody have any advice? Is it a good industry from your perspective? Any insider knowledge or tips? How can I be the best apprentice I can be when starting?
Any comment or context to this topic is very helpful!
>t. wrenchet ;-;

>>2984803
Want an easy start that will have you earning money from day one? Join the miliary as a diesel engine mechanic. If it has wheels or treads it runs on diesel. Every branch needs diesel mechanics. Go Navy, Coast Guard, or Air Force. Same pay, same benefits, but they spend way more money per person and it fucking shows. Army and Marines are for fucking morons (I'm ex-army).

Enlistments are as little as 2.5 years and you can get the GI Bill and the VA loan program when you get out. The VA loan is the only reason I have a home in this economy and the GI Bill not only paid for my college but allowed me to do it without having to get a job to support myself at the same time.

I fuckling hated the Army and was out the door as soon as my contact was up. The people are awful, the food sucks, the quarters were dogshit, and the pay isn't great but it made the next 10 years of my life much easier. Just keep your mouth shut, your head down, and your dick in your pants and you will be fine. Save your money, stay away from women, drugs, alcohol, and car dealerships and you will be all set. Seriously, do NOT buy a vehicle. You don't need it and they will rape you on terms. Same with women.

When I left I had 45k in the bank at 22 years old and went right to college. I left college with a bachelors, zero debt, a paid off Toyota Tacoma (cheap SR trim), and a job lined up. The VA loan got me a house even though I had no work history and so-so credit score cause I had no credit history. Now my credit score is 820, I'm still driving the same Taco, I have a 401k, a nice house, and a decent job.

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>>2983759
>>2983772
get some of this stuff
its moldable plastic you just heat up in water in the microwave until its around 140 deg, you mold it to whatever, and it hardens back up into plastic

>>2982899
Hello! My stupid question:
If I have an idea for a produce or invention or some kind and I've got a working prototype, how the hell do I approach getting feedback from others without them just stealing my ideas or asking for credit because of their feedback? Should I just try and patent the product and then sell it to an established company? I'm working on some drum percussion hardware that I think would be fairly popular, but I know nothing about larger scale manufacturing things other than that if I the idea becomes known there will be a Chinese knock-off available on Amazon before I ever get my product to market.

>>2984863
ive had this happen anon, the chinks basically stole my product and there wasnt hardly anything i could do about it.
the wild thing is it was made 100% in the usa.
they just bought one and copied it.
my advice is to make sure you understand patents and copyrights before you make a website or bring anything to market.
make a logo, copyright it, get an official barcode, etc.
dont fuck around or you will get cucked.
im sure its easier with chat gpt type shit these days to help.

>>2984868
Yeah I know some of the standard tricks, like
>never manufacture the entire product with one company, split across multiple companies and don't let the left hand know what the right is doing
etc, and I know they literally do not care about patents or anything like that, hence why I'd prefer to just sell the product to an established company like Meinl or something. It's a clever product but also a rather simple one, which unfortunately would be incredibly easy to copy, so I dunno how cagey to be.

Does anyone know of a good conductive glue for attaching wires? What I'm looking to do is repair some battery packs with new cells. I have a spot welder for the nickel tape, but I'm looking for a non-solder way of attaching the balance wires and terminals.
>just fucking solder them faggot
I don't want to.

>>2984886
Sometimes I twist wires together then hot glue them together

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>>2984886
Prepare another set of leads and contacts to weld the wire to the tape before attaching the tape to the cell.
pic is for an industrial machine but I'm pretty sure both contacts on top would work.
Shape the wire contact only enough to keep the wires together - not so much it would touch the tape.
Using both contacts on top would allow welding the wire after the tape was welded to the cell.
If your current setup for welding has the contacts separate instead of joined, you'd only need one new lead and contact for the wires.

>>2984886
>>2984889
https://youtu.be/MSEkqhxBTas

>>2984889
I'll give it a shot. I'm not sure my little welder has the jump to go through the wire, though.

>>2984892
Genuine question, why not solder if you're going through all this effort?

>>2984893
>>2984886
>I don't want to.

>>2984696
Take the bulbs out and switch the light on. If it trips the breaker, it's not the bulbs. Otherwise, keep the light switched on and screw the bulbs back in one by one until you find the defective one.

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>>2982899
I'm a first time home buyer and my father is not particularly handy so I'm clueless. My goal is to know EVERYTHING about my home's utilities, the piping, the power lines, all the junction boxes, old phone lines, defunct leftovers from decades old remodels, etc. I want to know what connects to what and why it goes there.

How do I learn about all these things? Would the city have records? Inspectors? Former owners' contractors? We didn't get anything like that from the previous owners so I don't know what else to do than get in the crawlspace and start mapping them myself.

>>2984976
>i wanna know EVERYTHING about my house
>How do I learn about all these things?
extremely simple - you don't. let me explain.
i have a house. i renovated it for years, finished not too long ago, and i uncovered shit that NOBODY knew about, and those were people that were children of the person that built it (the builder is dead), and lived in this house their entire lives.
bunches of cables in the walls that when disconnected made things on the other side of the house stop working. mysterious concrete blocks in the soil no one knew what they were for. drain pipes not connected to anything(both sides). remains of animal bones under the concrete slab. concrete "storage" under the concrete slab that everyone forgot about. cables put in the walls seemingly at random. bathroom tiles with other bathroom tiles on top of them.

if the house is new, you could probably pull some technical drawings or whatever from whoever built it. if not and you have time and/or money, hire someone to make deep inspection, then save it somewhere and then take your own "inventory", but understand that realistically it's impossible to know some things unless you want to demo parts of your house to see what's in the walls etc. there are things you won't know until it's time to take care of them.

>>2984980
ok thanks I figured it wouldn’t be easy. when you call 811 what office receives that call? they’re bound to know something about what lines come in and out of the property boundary

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>>2984976
Wait for shit to break. You will learn a lot about your house when a bad water leak requires you to rip out a bunch of moldy drywall.

>>2984983
You don't need to know that. Anything out there will be the utility company's responsibility. Learn about your septic system, electric setup, etc.

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How do I obtain this shape?
The obvious way is to go to a pipe bending shop, then take a half-donut pipe to a CNC shop, but my gut tells me there should be an easier way.

>>2984999
buy a 90 degree pipe joint and cut it in half?

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>>2984999
how big?
what material?

I don’t have too many power tools, as I build my collection over the coming years what brand is the “above average but not premium” tier? Is it worth sticking with one brand for battery compatibility?
I have a mix of makita ryobi and Milwaukee at the moment if that changes anything

>>2985045
can you get battery adaptor plates?

>>2985045
some brands will make one tool better than the others while having a worse model of a different tool.
the only reason to stick with one brand is so all your batteries are interchangable but if you have all the batteries already and don't give a fuck about that then whatever tool you have is the one that's good enough (until it breaks or isn't powerful enough for your needs). the battery ecosystem is how they get you, i suggest buying wired tools if you don't actually need them to be portable.

>>2983425
Why would you want a bomb that spies on you in the house?

>>2985004
>>2985015
Alu, 20cm diameter, 3mm thick wall is what I'm aiming for.
Just cutting it myself doesn't sound viable, I need the cut curve to be "perfect", I don't see how to achieve that myself.

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>>2985071
What are you making?

>>2984999
some rare shops could press it, cnc would be trivially available but cost a lot since you need to make a fixture so you can flip the part and get mirrored cuts, band saw could work if precision isn't critical, wire edm is semi rare but probably the best way to do it.

I am afraid AI slob will steal my job eventually.
I thought about getting into silver and gold smithing in order to create jewelry and such things. Can you make a living with that in this day and age?

>>2985071
Is there any reason it has to be aluminum? Seems like it would be far more doable with some 8" PVC.

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Somewhat new to lasers. Should i try to get more modern head with tube? Now i have 58mm focus point. I have airassist from huge compressor upto 7bar. Machine is Qweike lg6040 60w from 2010.

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Plastic gear sheared at work and I have no clue how to replace it, would anyone here know what to do? It measures 3¾ inches in depth, 5⅝ diameter, 2⅞ shaft, and it has 15 teeth about ¾ inch tall

>>2985102
>plastic gears
>on a fuckhuge industrial machine
for what purpose? anyway are you teh boss of the place? get a metal one machined. if you're not, report to your boss and fuck off, why are you making this your problem?

>>2985102
What does it run? Start looking for spur gears on McMaster-Carr, or call up Boston Gear?

>>2985103
I am the boss of the place. The plastic part i believe was to be sacrificial so other parts wouldnt be destroyed? Not 100% sure my Dad installed that thing before I was born so it at least worked over 30 years

>>2985102
>>2985103
Umm when industrial stuff has an obvious plastic piece like that, it’s probably because it’s sacraficial to prevent other damage if something binds up. So don’t listen to dudes saying to get a metal one in place of that. You probably want to check everything down the line that would cause it to bind and shred teeth off.

>>2985104
Runs a shear, hadn't heard of Boston gear ill give them a look.

>>2985102
Any manuals laying around? Gears are pretty iffy to guess right. A part number would be valuable.

>>2985109
You'll probably have to e-mail or call them because there isn't much into on their site, but I bet they can find you something or at least get you pointed in the right direction. You probably don't have an involute gear pitch gauge handy do you? On so!during that large you could probably go by measurements alone to get you close enough to the proper gear tooth pitch.

>>2985106
>>2985107
yeah, that might be the case. well, maybe someone can machine one out of some reinforced plastic for you

>>2985110
Unfortunately the shear is from either the late 1800s or early 1900s so no manual lol

>>2985116
Gears usually have a stamp somewhere. Try to find a part number or some kind of spec. Usually on the ring near the shaft. Hopefully it hasn't worn off.

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>>2985116
of its american equipment from pre 1970 its almost guaranteed to be a 14.5° pressure angle standard diameteral pitch gear
your rough measurements are very close to a 3DP 15T 14.5° gear
from calculator https://evolventdesign.com/pages/blank-calc
a shop is going to charge out the ass for a custom gear so having 2 made would be wise because youll have to pay for the cutter and setup

>>2985137
adding after some mental clarity from taking a thinking shit
anybody with a basic bitch 3 axis cnc mill and a simple dividing head could interpolate the tooth form in the yz plane and cut the profile without a special gear cutter. this would save money and time getting a cutter
make sure you tell them its a rough low speed non precision part and just needs to run

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Planning an ebike project, looking for deals on batteries. Long range cruiser vibe. I'm looking at 4 of these in series for a 48v setup, does this seem like a good deal? 9,600Wh capacity for $200. Is balancing and charging a problem if each battery has it's own BMS? I'm about to beat these gas prices. Thanks in advance.

>>2985189
Correction, it would be 7,200Wh for $200, still seems like an ok deal, thoughts?

>>2985137
>>2985141
Thanks my man

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>>2985189
>File: Screenshot 2026-04-08 183258.png
>200Ah on F2 terminals
I don't think so, Timmy
12.6v 3Ah for $50 is not a good deal

>>2985268
>I don't know the difference between amps and amp-hours and I'm going to be a douche about it

>>2985102
i'd build a sandcasting mold for it if i were gonna fix that myself.
there's probably one good tooth on there that you can use for a reference shape, cut all the other teeth off at the same place and use that good tooth to form a mold for all the teeth and then melt-cast material into the mold to reshape it.
probably gotta figure out what kind of plastic it is first to buy new material to make up for the lost material. you could probably buy enough material to make yourself a spare and cast two copies of it too.
others probably have probably given you better advice but we're on the do it yourself board.

>>2985271
If we're going the DIY route he'd be better off grinding a form tool out of HSS and using an indexing head to cut the teeth into a chunk of virgin material of the appropriate plastic. Casting plastic sounds like a good way to get a shitty low density part unless you forcibly inject the plastic with a proper mold.

>>2985290
never heard of any issues like that, isn't injection molding just for high tolerance parts?
this seems big enough that you'd easily notice any massive air voids in the part while pouring into the cast and since it's plastic you could just heat it with a heat gun if you notice anything odd while pouring and it'll flow into the mold.
i'm just going for low tech solutions since the part itself seems like it'd function even if you fucked up the tolerances a bit.

>>2985294
I'll admit I've only fucked around with some abs just to see what it would do, but the shrinkage and cracking was bad. I know a proper insulated mold with a riser would help with that to slow the cooling and pull additional material in as it cooled.

You're probably right, and I was being retarded thinking my pouring of molten plastic into muffin tins was an accurate representation of actual casting of the material using the proper equipment.

That being said it would still be easier in my case to machine plastic bar stock than try and set up a proper mold. Depending on the equipment you have available to you it might be the exact opposite for someone else.

>>2985106
oh ok so you’re a nepo baby who doesn’t understand how his own factory works

>>2985268
>>2985270
isnt that circled thing the charger anyway?

>>2984090
Have the tools to turn off water and gas.

>>2985409
no gas at the new place, only water and electricity

What kind of democrats/(prollythejews): crap is that, huh?. Still, that “T”handle to turnoff the whole f’n water, without having to bend too much,?, is a must have. The neighborhood will love you for having.

>>2985421
>>2985450
Not claiming fault. 4u tho

>>2984976
Unless this house was built in the 50's, the foundation was likely poured by four methheads while one held a level and said 'good enough' and the building was done by illegal immigrants who were on a time crunch
builders hire their own inspectors anyways, there's no independent engineering involved in home building especially not modern day, so you'll find your tiles aren't actually waterproof one day when your bathroom is smelling of mold
assuming you're american

>>2985486
>contractors weren't lazy in the 50s
Boomers need to be put down.

>>2984090
Essential general purpose tools, do not skimp out on these with cheapos, get one that will last you 20 years
>hammer, rubber mallet also recommended
>screwdrivers, phillips and flathead at the minimum, star also recommended, multiple sizes recommended
>allen wrench set
>adjustable spanner
>drill and bits, 1/8 through 1/4 should be all you need, and a few phillips bits because they strip easily
>needlenose pliers
>a big clamping wrench like a pipe wrench or vice grips
>drywall screws and plastic inserts. don’t be the guy who screws straight into drywall
>stud finder
>drywall putty or spackle to fix your mistakes
>shovel
>hose and spray nozzle if you have a faucet

if you’re painting get an extra can to keep just in case you need to match the color years later

If you plan to do any demo or remodeling, safety glasses, work gloves, and a respirator are required at your level of experience. If you ever go into a crawlspace, back room, attic, etc, play it safe and use the respirator until you’ve confirmed it’s safe not to use one

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how would you patch this rot in the plywood? I’d prefer not to replace the whole wall panels. It’s just a shed I’m keeping it cheap and easy

>>2985499
>drywall putty or spackle to fix your mistakes
don't buy this. you'll never use it for 10 years and when you will want to use it, it'll be all dried up.
>shovel
and a rake, small pruners, small axe, a bucket or two, some gloves. more stuff if you wanna do some big boy gardening
>safety glasses
mandatory for 90% of work
>respirator
and a few ffp2 masks, mandatory for 90% of work

add some basic storage solutions, tool case is ok but buy a few small parts organizers, the cheap ones. you're gonna have some odd washers and shit lying around, it's for that. also a dozen or two of those colored small plastic boxes, just google "screw organizer", they're like a dollar each max.

also, throw away anything you're gonna hoard. 10 years from now you're gonna end up with tons of random blunt bits, ikea allen keys, random screws and shitty plastic inserts that came with whatever you bought. you're gonna keep them thinking "i might use that later", but you won't, ever. you'll end up throwing like 20 fucking allen keys at once, because you will never ever use them, same with some random rusted drills you found, old rusted files you bought at some yard sale or whatever(found in the wall), and so on so forth.

>>2985501
> I’d prefer not to replace the whole wall panels
identify source of rot and eliminate it.
cut out affected section
replace with fresh pressure treated boards.

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what are all the different kinda of clay to make crafts with? I’m interested in tabletop terrain building and have seen polymer clay, airdry clay, earthenware, stoneware, kaolin, ball clay, fire clay… idk if that’s all the popular ones

I’ve only ever used earthenware clay but for small-scale crafts projects it seems people use polymer and airdry clay but i really don’t know the pros or cons or differences or requirements of all the different kinds and am looking for some direction to help me decide what to use

getting bout 3inches of deflection on the breaker bar and feel like im about to snap the head off. whats the next step? torch? i have green 1lb propane cans with a random torch head. how long to heat, 30seconds? 5minutes?

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getting bout 3inches of deflection on the breaker bar and feel like im about to snap the head off. whats the next step? torch? i have green 1lb propane cans with a random torch head. how long to heat, 30seconds? 5minutes?

god damn captcha errors and shit

>>2985503
>>2985499
thanks guys, appreciate the write up

>>2985084
all the folks i know making jewelery hve been doing it for years or still homeless or have a regular job doing other shit. same with gold miners.
i do know a proffesional watch repairman who had his buisness handed down to him from his father who was passed down from his father. he rents and makea enough money to drive and own a car

>>2985541
>propane
Useless. It's not hot enough to really do anything. Soak it in actual penetrating oil for awhile. Get a small diameter pipe about 5' long. Slide it over bar. Remove nut. Or break stud. Or break bar/socket. If it's the last one, be a man and get a real breaker.

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>>2985541
1. cheater pipe
2. find somebody with an impact wrench
3. picel

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I already have a tractor and PTO auger. Would it be possible to make a different bit for the auger to make a stump grinder like this? Or would I tear something up?

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>>2985562
augers are pretty wimpy in comparison and the frams arent built for the torque and control something like that probably needs. looks like it has a massive gear reduction planetary drive and hefty rotec bearing
also the salesman has a fucking hilarious name

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would it be possible to turn a normal wood stove into a masonry heater by convoluting the exhaust piping, and covering it in sand? or could i just surround a wood stove with sand to capture heat...stick little fins in to disperse it... where can i read more aout this? sorry for the shit paintjob

>>2985570
>hot air need go up
no it wouldnt draw

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Crack in shower tile grout. Should I just run caulk up the whole corner?

>>2985570
what >>2985571 said, maybe you could somehow rig it up to have a ventilation fan, like those pea coal or wood pellet furnaces, but at that point you're making a whole project out of this.
>>2985577
there should be no grout in the corners at all, who did that? no self-respecting tileworker will put grout in any corner. scrape off as much as you can, clean up so there's no dust or any particles, then caulk.

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>>2985571
>>2985581
Don't masonry heaters work like this?

The handle on my faucet has started spinning in place instead of turning the spindle. I'd like to take it off and figure out what's wrong. Can I just lift of the plate and unscrew it or will that let the spindle out and spray water everywhere? Also, is it probably the spines on the handle and I just need a new one?

>>2985613
Won't this create CO2 in the room?

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What is the point of the branch on this drain? I don't usually see that.

>>2985619
Co2 isn't a big deal

>>2985562
As the other anon said, no way in hell a pto auger would be beefy or geared down enough for that kind of abuse.

>>2985622
Did someone plumb a condensate pump drain into that sink drain? Where does the pipe go?

>>2985613
eh honestly you are right, i retract my previous statement

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>>2985613
a work of art
start constructing it immediately

I need to build a small ramp to push my motorcycle up and over a small 6" step. I would normally just bump it over and push it in, but now I have a faired bike that will scrape. How should I build this? I was thinking of either making it out of plywood and cutting smaller rectangles incrementally and screwing them on top of each other in a stack. Or maybe I should make a 2×4 frame with a plywood slope like a skateboard ramp? This will be inside, and I won't have to worry about the elements.
>tldr
How make small ramp?

What's a good way to fuck with a washing machine without it being very obvious? bonus points if it makes a big mess when it is used. Landlord is a cunt and costing me lots of money and will be moving back into my flat once I have moved out. He deserves to be fucked with.

>>2985658
buy a 10' or 12'2x6, cut it in half, then cut each half diagonally from 0 to 5.5" with a skilsaw
you'll end up with 4 wedge pieces, screw those under a plywood / osb section and maybe throw in a small cap piece on the tall end to lock them all together
if you want to go crazy throw in some blocking between them every foot

anyone know what would be a likely cause of this:

- I have an outdoor lamp, it has never worked since we bought the house
- Cable on the outside has phase, neutral and ground.
- Neutral shorts to ground when measured (not very common here we don’t bond them in the panel).
- I have found the interior side of the phase and neutral cable, but it has no ground
- As soon as I connect the phase and neutral (with no lamp connected) to a group, it trips TWO gfci’s: the one that protects the group its connected to and another seemingly random one
- Turning off just the powering group lets me activate both gfcis again

I cant trace the ground wire because it goes through the roof and the cavity wall. Electrical was done in 1999 then dit redone in 2006 by the then owner. Is there anything I can test to find the problem or should I give up the cable and put a new one

>>2985581
It was done by the previous owner, I’m just now getting around to fixing their broken things. I have vague ideas what to do but no experience doing them

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I have never seen an outlet with the back like this. Where do I push to pull out the backstab wires? Is it those white slots in the corners or the holes below where the wires are inserted?

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>>2985691
The idea is to push down to the bright metal you can see in the slot.
This springs the tooth away from the wire so it can be pulled outl

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This is my new yard, what should I know about it?

>>2985691
It could be a weird backwire setup. Try loosening the screws.

>>2985705
its brown, and gravel.
put some cactus potplants out there

>>2985687
Probably a junction box in the wall and there's something janky in it. No ground wire on the interior means he probably bound them together in the junction box and used said box as the ground.

If you can't find the box, probably better to run a new wire so you know what you have.

>>2985659
Remove drain plug cleanouts. Most modern machines have them under the unit and normies never empty them anyways

>>2985681
YES
thanks, fella.

What can I make with a combo lathe-mill?

>>2985691
fuck all that, cut them and replace the outlet

backstabbing is lazy or last option type behavior

>>2985707
This. That looks like it has the grooved plate that clamps around the conductor when the screw is tightened. Loosen the screw off and they should pull out.

>>2985757
I love how everyone hates on backstab outlets and then shids and creams themselves over wagos...

>>2985690
perfect moment to get some experience then
>>2985705
are you in saudi arabia or something?

>>2985758
I've never reached for wagos. I'm a little surprised they haven't been ok'ed to use as buried splices so they can burn your house down.

I want a solder pen type device that tins joined wires before wire nuts. Sometimes those get loose when you have to jam a ton of wire into a small box or if the old knob and tube house only gave you an inch of wire lead.

>>2985768
American desert

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Why is the dust collector connection on my fancy new Festool so small? Seems like it’s not collecting an awful lot of dust.
Can I just run a small hose from my shop vac to it (and run the vac not on full power) to have easier handling or is there some flow engineering stuff I’m overlooking?

>>2985782
how much dust are you expecting a rotary sander to output, anon? it's a sander.
>can i
yes

>>2985784
> how much dust are you expecting a rotary sander to output, anon?
A lot. That’s kinda it’s thing, because
>it's a sander.
It feels like its dust collection is limited by the little flow it gets. My large 150mm orbital I’m running with mesh has suction at its pad that you can really feels. This one is barely noticeable (also, 90mm of course has much less holes, so I guess it makes sense that it can’t do magic).

>>2985790
>A lot.
no
>This one is barely noticeable
okay. do you get dust flowing around, or not?

how do you do a wall full of mirror but in a portable way
those mirror tiles on amazon are mostly shit but can you make your own with real glass mirrors
how would you make sure they don't fuck up the reflection

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I am living in a family member's home that was kinda neglected and there's quite a lot of mold on the windows and frames, even seen embedded in the caulking. There looks like there's condensation between the panes in at least 2 windows.
Not my pic, but similar. I washed everything with 1:10 part bleach and then with an all-purpose cleaning solution, but it still smells musty and looks dirty in some rooms. Where could the water infiltration be starting? There was no evidence of water having leaked into the home itself and mold is restricted to the bottom of the window and frame only. Outside of the home surprisingly looks OK, no siding is missing and I see no gaps anywhere around the windows. Should I just start putting caulking all over inside and out? Do the windows flat out have to be replaced? And any suggestions to better clean up the mess of mold I still have?
I am not /diy/ savvy and google is just giving me results for local mold removers. Thanks.

So my grandmother ripped the the physically wired button for her garage door off the wall. I took a look at it and the two wires are still intact, but regardless of whatever configuration I reconnect the wires to the button, the garage door doesn't activate. The wireless remotes work just fine, no issue with the sensors.

What possible cause could prevent the physically wired button to not function?

>>2985874
The wires may be damaged or disconnected from your unit. The switch may not be functioning. Both cases are quick to test with a multimeter and maybe some wire on hand.

>>2985873
The black on the surface is the fruiting bodies of the mold. I guess a pinhead of the stuff is millions of spores. I've heard bleach is effective on the surface and might trigger toxic release.

The primary problem is the organism is embedded inside your window frame. Many windows aren't flashed correctly above or inside of the wall. They should also be caulked and sealed. At this point, I'd just trap it under heavy oil base primer and re-caulk the exterior until you're ready to replace it.

>>2985873
The water comes from hot-cold condensation, from the air. The room is too humid and/or the window is too cold due to being leaky, single pane or not sealed well. No amount of bleach will reach everywhere and remove/kill all spores and even if you manage to kill all of it, it will return the same way it got there (probably through the air) in the first place.

No mold killer will help in the longer run if the conditions don’t change. Either make the room less humid, warmer, ventilate more, or fix the windows and sills. A double pane window with moisture inside is always leaky and cannot be fixed wo replacement, a leaky windowsill can be fixed with caulk, filler or new weather stripping

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I own this now, is there an easy way to flatten it out or is it all going to be expensive/laborious?

>>2985920
what do you mean "flatten"? this is falling apart

>>2985920
It's a parking lot

How flat does it need to be?

>>2985922
>>2985921
idk I don't like the hole, is re-doing it the only solution?

>>2985951
You can hot patch. Have you never seen a road?

>>2985874
Touching the wires sends a signal to operate. If that's not the case get a wire scrap and close terminals (screws) for wires. If shorting the screws work but shorting ends don't the wires are damaged. If neither look for a fuse on the hot side in the opener.

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did i damage this jack by hammering a thin piece of pipe over the square pressure release knob?

>>2985958
if it doesn't work you probably ruined the seal by hammering

>>2985687
Before chasing a ton of other wires down, have you checked that the lamp itself isn’t fucked and shorted out?

I got one of those expanding fabric hoses as a hand me down and it seems like every time I shut the valve off all the water in the hose pools in one spot and leaks through the hose. Is this just how it’s always gonna be because I can get another normal hose, or am I stupid and I don’t know my valve is leaking?

>>2985994
Does it leak while on? Is the fabric wet between the end and the pool? I don't really understand the question but is it hurting anything s.t. you need to go get another hose?

Oh, ah, If you live north of Georgia you know the valve itself drains about a foot of pipe after turning it off?

>>2985994
Those hoses are very light duty. You will have another leak soon, don’t worry. I love the idea but after 2 or 3 within a year, I gave up on the fabric covered water balloon

>>2985994
It's a hand me down because it's leaking

They do it pretty easily and the kids want to use it as a rubber band sonitbhas a hard life

>>2985972
are the pistons connected to that little square knob that i was hammering onto?

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curious if anyone here has attempted a DIY butterfly crook? And would steel work? I know butterflies need a really hard surface to land on and granite is recommended, but do they really not like the softness of steel?

>>2983463
thank you heavenly pete

>>2985071
would you be able to rough cut and grind to tolerance?

>>2986043
well, yeah. the square knob is the pressure release, so it has to be connected to the piston to release pressure.

>>2983211

Yes I know what you are talking about! Might have it on an old HDD. I can look tonight if I remember.

Lighters were the most important thing.

>>2986082
Oh shit, nice

QUESTION

I'm a farmer and I raise medium size animals. Largest predator is a coyote.
I want a decent 22lr for culling, pest control, and soft targets.

Is the Ruger 10/22 just the way to go? That's just "the" 22lr?

>>2986084
damn, if only there was a board for discussing weapons.

>>2986084
Ruger 10/22 are decent and, highly supported with aftermarket parts. The stock 10 round magazines are reliable, but a lot of the extended capacity magazines you can buy are finicky and can cause feed issues.

I prefer a bolt action as my truck gun just because of the amount of dirt and dust on the farm. A savage fvsr would be my go to recommendation for anyone asking.

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This cute little thing used to belong to grandpa, he passed away and now it's mine. He used to always have it on him and I plan on doing the same, but it's also in a bit of a rough visual shape and I want to restore it a little bit and need some guidance on how do to that.
As is it's written on it, the blade is inox, but it has a a little rusty spot right at the edge in the centre, I think that might have been transferred to it, rather than the blade itself somehow rusting. It is sharp-ish and who knows when was the last time grandpa sharpened it, so it must hold an edge decently enough. Can I just rub or buff out that rusty bit? The bit on the very edge will come out once I sharpen it but.
It is very heavy for its size so the handle must be brass or bronze or something like that, I need a way to clean it without damaging it. The white inserts are most likely some plastic, I think the pins just guide it in and it's held down by the screw, one of the sides is cracked in between the screw hole and the edge. Those inserts might also be glued, I don't know.
The screws holding everything together are the most badly rusted. I'm afraid of trying to disassemble it because of them. Also as can be seen in the top right, one of them is poking out on one side.
Also not as visible in the pics but most all the bronze/brass parts have a little dark layer of what I assume to be some 80 year old grime on it, it doesn't look like corrosion. What do I use to clean those out without scratching the shit out of everything?

>>2986125
Break it down as much as you can and use brasso on the brass and a toothbrush and some WD40 on the rest of it

>>2986089
How well do you suppose his question would be received on /k/? It'd be like a bunch of shit flinging monkeys and they'd call him a loser for not having nods...

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>>2986089
/k/ hates me cause I consider guns tools. I'm also looking for a tool. Not a larp.
>>2986109
I appreciate it. I'm just looking for a lead singer that is reliable and 22lr. I use a 12g almost daily.

9/10 shots are just bird scares (noise plus a bell). I think I can do everything I need to with a 10/22 and keep the shotgun at the house and just grab it when I need it.

1/10 shots are usually cull shots and 9/10 times it's a raccoon or possum.
1/10 of those times it's a coyote. I am a big softie and hippie. I know placement, but would the 10/22 be humane? If the shot drifts is it just crawling into the woods to suffer for 3 days? Or can the 10/22 do immediate followup shots?

My experience with 22lr is a wheel gun and bolt action. Aside from that 9mm. 556. And 12g are my usual calibres. The price of 22lr is enticing but not at the cost of suffering.
I've also thought about going to a lower calibre shotgun. Like a 410. But 22lr is so cheap.
Thoughts?

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>>2986190
>>2986190
10/22 is semi auto so followup shots wouldn't be a problem. I agree it feels small against a coyote/wolf- but I got less experience than you would.

You could get something exotic like a combo 12g or a .22lr insert and put that in one barrel of your shotgun. Then you'd have 12g for the wolf

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>>2986194
Can't ring the bell reliably and the round likes to tumble. The shot doesn't place and the animal suffers as you reload the insert.

Does your jam often? A cycle of 100 rounds how many would jam?