Thread #2985413
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This is the tech stack we need to learn in 2026 my dudes.
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The way construction is going just about everything is going to be a semi-skilled trade soon. Plastic disposable dogshit that needs to be replaced every 20 years and can be assembled by a trained monkey. It will all be done mostly by illegals making about the same as a shift manager at a fast food place.
Plumping used to require actual skill and tools. You hard to cut and thread metal pipe. Now everything is plastic and is crimped or glued together. My houses waste lines are cast iron. That shit is ABS. That is what they make Lego out of. Enjoy huffing fumes on your knees all day and having to learn Spanish while your kid makes the same money down at In-N-Out.
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>>2985523
>I never understood how cast iron didn't rust through.
It does. Cast iron from the early 70s and older is really thick and generally lasts 50-70 years before it rusts out. From the 70s to the 90s the cast iron was thinner to save money on 2 fronts: it weighed less so it was cheaper to ship/transport and less material. The shipping/transport thing became an issue with the 70s energy crisis, but when that ended nobody made it thick again because it then had a larger profit margin.
The thinner stuff usually lasts 25-35 years.
Clay lines were fantastic, however with any soil movement or tree roots, they just get crushed.
PVC is fine, it too should last 35 years but is cheaper than modern cast iron. There is no better material currently being used for residential drain plumbing.
If I'm understanding this diagram correctly, did the creator of it fuck up the slope directions? Whats with the slope arrows and the blue arrows seemingly being nonsensical?
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>>2985539
Chlorine and fluoride. Same reason peoples' guts are rotting out with colon and ass cancer by 50 and men have no testosterone anymore.
Well water chads don't have this issue. No chemicals and the pipes build up a thin layer of film that actually coats and protects the pipe.
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>>2985523
>BTW, most "ABS" isn't even ABS anymore... it's this ABS foam-core shit.
Cool. Picture related. It all just gets worse and worse.
I stopped following plumbing technology when PEX became the new standard. Glorified garden hose. PVC was for sprinklers only in my area. I figured they couldn't get any worse than that after Poly B pipes caused all sorts of issues back in the day but here we are. We didn't learn our lesson.
I knew people in the trades when PEX was just hitting the scene and how it made things so much easier. They have all abandoned residential plumbing because they don't get paid enough anymore. Like, no fucking duh, right? Your job just got super easy and you thought no one would notice? Next thing they know they are getting underbid by some crackhead willing to do it for less because you don't have to sweat pipe anymore. The best part is the same shit happened when copper became the standard. Sweating pipe was so much easier than cutting and threading galvanized steel and cast iron. Its a race to the bottom and the only winner is the fucking developer.
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>>2985462
>You hard to cut and thread metal pipe
For galvanized steel, yes. That does not require a lot of skill, just strength and stamina, especially for larger bores. Also, soldering. Getting the lengths right, though, now that takes skill.
>Now everything is plastic and is crimped or glued together.
Lots of copper and stainless with press fittings here. Again, it takes skill to get the lengths right.
>My houses waste lines are cast iron. That shit is ABS.
It's not so shit. I've got ABS drains from the 80s in my house. They're fine. And much larger bore than the cast iron ones used to be, so a lot less likely to get clogged in a hurry.
>Enjoy huffing fumes on your knees all day
You aint't gonna huff lots of fumes sticking ABS pipes with rubber O ring fittings together.
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>>2985624
Too much slope and the liquids flow too quickly and leave solids behind. Obviously a vertical or near vertical drop is the exception. And it varies by pipe diameter, thinner pipes should be sloped a little more and large pipes should be sloped a little less.
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>>2985582
>Lots of copper and stainless with press fittings here
They are shit too.
>with rubber O ring fittings together.
They ain't even glued together? Christ, you fuckers are lazy. Do you size the O-ring based on how far out the sale date is so you can charge the new owners for the repair?
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>>2985715
>>Lots of copper and stainless with press fittings here
>They are shit too.
Indeed? How so?
>They ain't even glued together?
What for? It's a very tight fit. Often you need to use lubricant to even make the connection in the first place.
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>>2985462
I say fuck yes. It's my house, I can fix it for 1/10 (or less) what a plumber would charge me? The shit they used back when lasts what, 50 years? I don't care if I have to change it every 10 years, I'm still money ahead, and my shit is still flowing to the sewer. The only guys mad about this are plumbers, except they haven't looked around and realized fewer people than ever are doing their own house work. Plumbers will still be a thing, and the new way is 4 times faster than before. You'll have as many or more jobs to do, done 4 times faster, still charging to make as much profit, what's the problem?
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>>2985559
PEX A is fuckin excellent. Doesn't burst if the water freezes, you can do continuous runs from source to fixture without any joints, is cheap, and is easy to install.
The only time I've seen PEX fail is when it wasn't installed properly or those stupid cheap brass 90° fittings corroded out. Not even sure why people used those, because the whole point is that you're using a flexible pipe that doesn't need a point of failure at every direction change.
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>>2985779
my pex is 25 years old now, and I recently re-did some of it to extend some of the lines. The hot water was all yellow, but I examined it and it was fine... in fact, absolutely perfect. Also, I re-used some of it, and it expands and shrinks back just fine like it was new.
I added a manifold made of copper, but if it freezes the surrounding pex attached to it should take up some of the excess pressure.
I think pex also better for "water hammer" as it's kind of flexible/elastic.
Also, in my area, you're not allowed to use leaded solder anymore (the good stuff) for drinkable water. So there's that.
Shower heads usually have copper lines running up to them even if everything else is pex. Probably for mechanical stability.
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>>2985779
Pex B is more commonly used and not as flexible, especially in existing walls. Still, you can get plastic fittings that don't corrode, though I suppose the worry there is they might crack when cinching down.
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>>2985771
I would take a soldered joint over a compression fitting. It requires more skill and experience to solder pipe than to operate a compression fitting tool. I'd always rather have the work done by someone skilled than someone not. Plus, if the soldering job has a flaw that causes a problem later I can fix it myself without having to completely redo the work. You likely have to redo the whole compression fitting if there is a problem like that.
>>2985771
While I don't have any experience with non-glued ABS pipe I don't know how I feel about having something that caries waste water just press fit together. Yeah, it is not pressurized, but I have seen too many joint failures due to movement or vibration in other applications to trust a waste pipe in my wall/floor that someone that can't be trusted with glue/solvent put together. How much of a miser do you have to be to do that? How much time and money is that actually saving you?
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>>2985838
>t requires more skill and experience to solder pipe than to operate a compression fitting tool.
That right there is the problem. It requires a lot of skill and it's easy to fuck up. Compression fittings are damn near impossible to fuck up as long as you get the lengths right. Given the choice, I'd rather rely on a skilled tradesman using compression fittings than the same skilled tradesman using soldered fittings. There's less of a fire hazard, too. In my book, the cramped confines that plumbers sometimes have to work in and that may or may not contain flammable materials shouldn't be mixed with blow torches.
Also, with compression fittings you can use stainless which is goat. We've got tons of compression fitted stainless here and while pricey, I've never seen it break - that shit is damn near indestructible. And as an added bonus it does away with galvanic corrosion.
>How much time and money is that actually saving you?
Well. I've never seen a drain pipe fail from movement/vibration. They are always held in place with clamps every half meter at the very least. And since I live in Europoorland they're usually embedded in mortar, too. Maybe it's different with stick framed wood construction.
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>>2985462
Same shit as always
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>>2985818
The PEX will take most of the expansion pressure as long as an ice plug doesn't form in the copper stuff first. I plumbed my cabin in PEX and forgot to drain the toilet supply line one winter. It froze and the internals of the toilet were fine, but it actually cracked the porcelain tank itself.
In my experience the only thing that will actually kill PEX is UV light exposure. You can get away with it for some years, but eventually it will become brittle if allowed to sit naked in the sun.
>>2985835
I'm definitely not as convinced about PEX-B. It's better than CPVC but PEX-A is only $10 more than PEX-B per 100 feet, and in my experience it's more reliable. Plus you can use the plastic fittings that won't corrode. A manual expansion tool is only $70 on Amazon, which is perfectly fine unless you're a legit plumber working with it every day.
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>>2985523
Cash iron does rust through.
I'm experiencing it on my rental unit built in 1965, after I'd put in the new septic 2 years ago. That piping is flaking apart and I'll need to replace it, and the foundation piping in the bathroom, within 5 years, hopefully 10. I'll redo the bathroom, maybe kitchen at the same time.