File: file.png (3.4 MB)

Also it's 42-43 inches from the floor and I measured some stringers at home depot but they only go to about 32 inches. So I don't know how to proceed

This genuinely looks unsafe

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They make 10 step stringers

>>2992243
I just want it all torn down, can I do like 4 or 5 steps that go to the door?

>>2992244
I mean, it's gonna be steep af but sure.

just gotta cut stringers and put some steps on, add a guard rail and risers if you wanna be up to code
standard step height is like 7 inches, tread depth is 10 inches, you're probably looking at like 5 steps
its all just right triangle math

it's gonna be awkward though without a landing.

File: fixed-ladders.png (162.0 KB)

>>2992237
you can put a vertical ladder there if you don't mind climbing down 4-5 steps

Cut your own stringers.
Use any of the thirty online stair calculators to get measurements.
Buy a few 2x12s and get cutting.

>>2992237
I couldn't imagine going from being a ramp chad to a stairlet. Bleak.

>>2992237
google the stair calculator. fill in height, thickness of steps and whether you want riser boards on the back of the steps
buy a framing square, use the measurements it gives you to use. subtract thickness of step from bottom of first step; subtract riser board from top step.
make one stringer- copy that one to make the other two.
watch several videos on how to make stairs and a landing first, then go back as you are making them and get stuck.

File: stairs layout.jpg (48.1 KB)

>>2992237
you can custom cut this setup or the stair stringers and treads come precut at lumber stores
make sure you do the math so your steps aren't too tall

File: file.jpg (25.2 KB)

>>2992237
you could replace it with stairs
alternatively...

>>2992237
What were they doing? It's way too steep for wheelchair and they decided to stop below the joist instead of actually ramping all the way to the deck. It's not good even for older dogs.

>>2992459
If this is American I'd guess a retarded customer wanted a ramp. Then a retarded code inspector wouldn't allow the ramp to be a couple degrees steeper to make it all the way to the top. By their retardation combined they ended up here.

>>2992465
>The first time something goes wrong dropping in on the first 10 inches
>"Bill Fixeverything said it was to code!"

>>2992238
Tear it out, friend.

Alternatively, build a motorcross style gate so you can hit the top of the ramp with energy.

step rise and tread should add up to 15, recommended by this old house.

File: stringerForRetards.jpg (27.1 KB)

>>2992237
hi im a carpenter. steps should be 7" high and 10-11" long. if you aren't doing an overhanging tread make it 11". you said you are going up 42" so you need either 5 steps plus the landing or six steps. based on what i am seeing you should do six steps because it will give you a better way to attach the stair to the landing. so with six steps you are going to have 42" rise and 66" of run. so grab two 8 foot 2x12s and get a square. use the square to mark out the steps by holding 11" horizontal and 7" vertical and then starting the next cut out at the tip of where the first one stopped. afterwards cut away the excess material to get your first and last tread to lay on the ground and lay on the landing properly. use a jigsaw. then you just have to do your treads and wallah you got stairs. railings are recommended. just screw some 2x4s into the side and add a top rail.

>>2992475
shut the fuck up you retard, 7+11=18

>>2992493
I was thinking of getting rid of the landing and just doing 6 steps with a hand rail. The landing is held up by questionable 2x4s and plywood. The whole thing needs to come down.

>>2992543
i would keep at least a 4'x4' landing so you aren't opening the door straight onto stairs or standing on stairs while opening the door. you could also reposition the stairs so they are along the back wall and you have a straight shot into the house. depends on if you want the garage deeper or not. either way, make your stairs 4 feet wide. it's more comfortable.

>>2992546
last piece of advice, those idiots used pressure treated lumber for interior work. just use regular untreated southern yellow pine. if you want to be autistic, put a vapor barrier like felt roofing or plastic sheeting between the concrete and the wood where they touch.

>>2992549
Would it be weird to turn the stairs 90 degrees, against the wall with no landing?

I'm just really wanting to keep this thing simple. The current landing feels shaky and I doubt my skills to do a landing, and it obviously costs more in lumber.

>>2992550
And yeah, it's a very small garage and barely wide enough to open the car door as is, so I'm trying to keep all that shit against the wall to free up space.

I'm starting to think these small SUVs are even too big for these 90s garages.

>>2992550
the landing is the easy part dude. you just get some 2x8s, build a square, put two 2x8s in the square 16" on center to support the flooring, install it with tapcons into the brick on two sides about 1.5-2" below the door. on the inside of the landing put 4 supports so you don't have to hold the thing in place, so if your door is 43" above the garage floor make it 41" high. then just buy enough 2x12 to cover your treads and the landing and you will be half an inch below your door opening so there isn't a tripping hazard.

File: basic landing.jpg (22.6 KB)

>>2992555
forgot pic, this is looking top down. yes you can put it against the back wall.

>>2992556
How would I screw all this together, don't I need metal plates and shit?

File: basic landing with fasteners.jpg (25.7 KB)

>>2992557
nope, red are screws use 2.5" or 3" if you don't mind them going through the back side of the board. red lines are screws.

>>2992559
also do a top row of screws, a middle row, and a bottom row so 3 screws for each red line just beneath each other

>>2992561
You're losing me but alright I somewhat have an understanding

How do I secure this to my wall I guess is my question

>>2992555
And also for the supports what size lumber do I use? 2x8? Or?

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>>2992563
ok so you are going to build the landing and it is going to look like a table with no top. then you slide it against the walls and you tapcon it to the brick or screw it to studs or whatever. it is structurally sound as i have designed it so you are really just trying to keep it from moving. these connections aren't going to keep it from falling over, they are just to keep it against the door. here is the way the screws would look if you were looking at it straight on.

>>2992565
use 2x8 for the landing and the supports. use 2x12 for the treads and the stringer (the piece you cut that the stairs are made out of). for the landing covering, you could make the landing 45" and then use 4 lengths of 2x12 (which is 11.25" wide) and not have to use a table saw to rip a board down. so yeah, make the landing 45"x45"

>>2992567
i also have no clue what tools you have so my advice is completely worthless if you don't have a jigsaw/circular saw and an impact driver.

>>2992567
And then I would assume the stairs would be 45 inches wide? This is starting to all make sense now.
I have a circular saw and plenty of impact drivers. No jigsaw. Should I get one?

>>2992569
a jigsaw is a fantastic tool and i would use it for this, but if you are already good with your circular saw just use that. the jigsaw would be nice because you don't have to cut so far into the wood to complete the cut, there would be no saw mark an extra inch into the stringer. overall it really doesn't matter for your purposes though because this is only a <4 foot rise. save the hundred or so dollars and just do it with the circular saw IMO. jigsaws also have their own learning curve. you can do this whole project with the circular saw and if you want to have less of a cutout then cut it from both sides, break out the piece of wood and then clean it up with a chisel, hand saw, or multitool. when you go to do the cutoffs on the stringer in red here >>2992493 just make your lines parallel to the cuts you make for the treads (flat part of stairs 11") and risers (vertical part of stairs, 7") and it should sit on the ground and on the landing just fine.

File: assemblyFromTop.jpg (80.4 KB)

>>2992569
and yes, 45" wide is going to be comfortable. here is how you attach everything. stairs are black, landing is blue, red are screws. put a 2x6 at the bottom and a 2x8 at the top. 2x6 because otherwise you will have to rip it to <7".

>>2992572
and if you want it to be overbuilt you can add a center support (orange) but i would say it's optional since you seem to just want this done cheaply. you would be cutting a third stringer. if i were doing it i would add it, but you aren't going to break a 2x12 over a 45" span.

File: assemblyFromTop.jpg (40.9 KB)

>>2992574
forgot pic

>>2992572
Retarded question but I subtract 3 inches from the inside boards when making a square due to a 2x8 actually being 1.5 planed?
Also thank you so much anon this all makes sense now

File: 20251107_132653.jpg (2.4 MB)

>>2992579
yup, also if you do the center stringer (orange piece in last image) you have to cut 1.5" off the top and bottom tread for it to work. it's also kind of unnecessary, but i tend to overbuild things.

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>>2992583
and primed :P

>>2992583
Alright now how do I tackle some railing so nobody falls off

File: assemblyFromTop.jpg (47.1 KB)

>>2992585
just screw 2x4s into the side of the stringer at the start of each tread where the stringer is thickest with 3 screws and then put a 2x4 on top of those with 2 screws in each one. it doesn't meet code but its a simple way to do it. railing in pink 2x4s in green.

>>2992587
And one more question before I go to bed
You said the treads I will be using 2x12s, will I have a quarter inch of overhang if I have 11 inch tread depth?

File: sturdierRailing.jpg (35.4 KB)

>>2992587
this is how we do temporary jobsite railings, so it's not the sturdiest but it is the fastest and easiest and you have to do something really stupid to break it. if you want to make it a lot sturdier then screw a board to the 2x8 support where the landing meets the treads and then run a 2x4 from the ground up to the railing and fasten everything to that. it will make it very sturdy.

>>2992589
and yeah, normal overhang is 1" or so, it won't be a tripping hazard. you could even cut your stringer at 10" and save 6" of space and have a 1.25" overhang. goodnight man.

>>2992584
Nice!

>>2992584
I've got the same chinesium wheeled scaffolding, only mine is red. Did yours come with useless outriggers, too?

>>2992695
that's the painters scaffold, i use aluminum tube scaffolding

File: Untitled.png (23.7 KB)

>>2992559
hey mate, nta but wouldn't pic related be a stronger design if you find a wider pieace that can be oriented vertical so that the top and bottom boards aren't screwed into the endgrain or does it not matter with the extra 2x8s holding those sides too?

>>2992716
you have screws going into the support 2x8 on both perimeter boards that are not going into/through end grain. but, overall, screwing into endgrain isn't a bad thing as long as your board doesn't split. pre drilling is recommended.

Update: I have bought lumber and cut all my boards for the landing
I fucked up the math and needed a 6th 2x8 but oh well, now I have a spare board
Which leads me to this, I am not the most experienced with my circular saw, some of my cuts weren't perfect
Nothing bad I don't think but I hope it doesn't fuck up my square.

>>2992718
>but, overall, screwing into endgrain isn't a bad thing as long as your board doesn't split
isn't it still much weaker than going cross grain? not that it's an issue if it's still strong enough for the application.

>>2992719
just put one screw into each board and make your square. then screw your 2x8 legs to the corners which should be on two flat sides of the boards. this will help square it up. a little gap on your corner joints isn't going to hurt anything.

>>2992721
Should I use a level on the supports to make sure it won't do funny unlevel things on the floor?

>>2992720
maybe for pullout strength, but everything we are doing here is shear strength. unless you are getting 5 fat chicks to jump up and down on this landing at the same time, it doesn't matter at all (you couldn't fit 5 fat chicks on a 45"x45" landing).

>>2992722
when you go to install it sure, you could even use that additional 2x8 to connect the bottom pieces together after you have it installed if it is a problem. build it on the ground so it's flat. this shit isn't rocket science. if something is really fucked up it is because the legs are different lengths (or maybe your garage floor is out of level, might want to check that, sometimes they are pitched or the finishing is fucked up).

>>2992725
Thanks carpenter anon

>>2992729
np famalam, always remember: the master carpenter has fucked up more cuts than most people have ever made

>>2992725
>you couldn't fit 5 fat chicks on a 45"x45" landing
you could stack them lengthwise

>screws
mortise and tenon that shit

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>>2992576
What size board is this supposed to be?

>>2992746
2x8

>>2992747
thanks

>>2992748
no problem, congrats on actually doing it! remember, it doesn't have to be perfect, it just has to work.

>>2992749
True enough its actually for my sister so she probably won't notice autistic details that I do

Currently doing deadbeat brother tasks in exchange for free rent, never done much carpentry beyond shop class 10+ years ago

File: file.jpg (1.1 MB)

It's coming along

Is the offset in height, because of crawlspace under the house?

>>2992852
The door frame seems to be crooked.

>>2992852
I plan to chisel away at that last board so it fits under. Sound plan?

>>2992854
sure, just chisel the cross grain deep and then hit it from the end grain, it will pop right out. use a 3/4" chisel, a 1" takes too much effort to score the wood. also this is the carpenter the other two replies to your picture weren't me. the easiest fix would be to cut your legs against the wall down by half an inch. the garage floor is probably sloped.

Is the door or landing level? 70 reply thread, let's get this right.

>>2992861
The supports aren't quite perfectly square on the top with the landing frame so there's a chance the boards are sitting high on the supports. Not by a ton but a little. I haven't screwed anything in yet on the top.

But I will measure the height of the door frame later. It's probably a combination of my shitty cuts, questionable door and an unlevel floor

>>2992864
Garage floors are always out. Don't worry about it.

File: file.jpg (3.1 MB)

Update, I've been a little busy but I'm working on cutting stringers. Gotta cut the last step and do a third

go to depot and buy some stringers and some 2x10's jesus christ

>>2993338
Looking good! Keep it up.

>>2993338
>>2992847
Actual crazy work if you've never done carpentry before

>>2993564
Maybe not too crazy but you should be proud of that*

>>2993565
>>2993470
Carpenterfag here, just do it and you will be better than everyone else who has never done it.

>>2993338
I'd test fit the stringers before laying out stairs.

>>2993753
What does this mean? I'm gonna try to get them as square as I can but what can I do if they don't line up?

>>2993795
carpenterfag again, just put them on top of each other and see if they are within 1/4" of each other on all the cutouts. you can trim it up a bit more if you want, but this is really where a jigsaw comes in handy. if they are pretty close just put it together and call it a day. follow the drawings i gave you. put the piece that connects the stringers to the landing on to the stringers first, then attach it to the landing. after that, add your treads and boom, you just made stairs!

>>2992746
this board that you circled in green, put it on the stringers first and then hold it up to the landing and screw it in so it is flush with the 2x8 side of the landing, so that when you put the tread on the top stair it is even with the top of the landing.

>>2993795
It'd be landing them so I know they fit the floor and ledger. Check them for level and square. Then draw out the stairs to verify they're all equal, including the top step.

>>2993801
the only problem he might have is the floor being out of level and having the same condition he had with the doorframe happen with the treads in which case he would cut the bottom of the stringer against the wall by ~1/2" to get level treads. not really a big deal if this is a bit out of level though in terms of functionality.

>>2993802
also, cutting the bottom of the stringer against the wall might fuck up because his landing isn't level so really he should just make sure his two stringers are reasonably symmetrical and then just fucking send it

>>2993802
Get out the jigsaw and send it. idgaf

>>2993806
i would just put it together and see what happens. worst case scenario he's out of level half an inch in 4 feet on garage stairs and he's still way better off than he was with that ridiculous ramp. looking back at the picture in >>2992847 he'll be out 1/4" or so and that isn't a big deal, especially considering you only have one foot on a tread at a time. don't over complicate it.

File: file.jpg (878.8 KB)

Stairs complete, the middle stringer is slightly off but I might shim it with wood shims. It sits flat and my sister is very very happy

>>2993883
nailed it

>>2993808
I think the worst case is career guys bungle their measurement, the first or last stair, the overall math, or hacks just screw supporting blocks under the treads. That's what I'm used to seeing. Also, we see a lot of basement sets where there's not enough headroom under the floor or horizontal run for a standard set. OP is competent and that goes a long way in this world.

>>2993883
Bro you did this in a week with no carpentry experience
Most do not get this far

>>2993883
congratulations, now all you need to worry about is the railing. do you want me to do the trig so you know how to mark out the angles? i can make it simple if you have questions.

t.carpeterfag

>>2993891
That would be great
I do have one question, I am unsure what I did wrong but the step before the landing sticks out what I believe is an extra inch or so. Maybe 1.5" so I'm wondering if a board is in the wrong place.

>>2993896
Not carpenter but put a spacer between your stringers and landing I think. But nobody will probably notice

>>2993883
it's likely the previous home owner kept the ramp narrow so he could still fit a car in there.
waited for you to finish the entire project before mentioning this :D

>>2993886
>nailed it
true, 4 nails per step

>>2993896
if they are comfortable to walk up, don't mess with it. "fixing" stuff often creates new and exciting problems. okay so basic trig it looks like you did a 10" tread and a 7" riser. you don't even really need to get into trig for this, 7/10x3.5=2.45 so for example you are going to make your first post at the start of the first tread and you will make it the measurement from the floor to the top of the riser +38" so if the top of your first tread is 7" it would be 45" on the short side and 47.45 (just do 47 and 7/16ths) on the long side, make those two marks and draw your line and cut it. repeat at the start of each step.

>>2992237
>Feel free to roast this monstrosity as I have no idea what the builder was thinking.
Watching manlets and little people slip all over the place was probably hilarious to him

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>>2992847
Add some diagonal bracing my man, that's going to be wobbly as fuck otherwise.
t: engineer

>>2994539
if it's screwed into the walls from both sides then it won't be