>>2992252
The baseline Makita, DHP482, is good if you don't mind brushed, that will be under 200 with battery and charger. If you get one of the fancier ones with brushless motor and high torque then you get it being brushless and higher torque. For most things I think the DHP482 is perfectly fine, it was my main go-to combi drill for many years. I bought a DHP486, which is a fancier, more compact and high power combi drill, but it has a very annoying design flaw that when fastening the chuck, you can easily change the mode on the selector wheel, typically from hammer to not hammer or from drill to lowest-setting clutch, both of which are annoying.
Frankly I'd save the money and buy the 482, plus maybe a cheap impact, helps a lot driving wood screws and masonry stuff. Also buy a big battery, at least 5Ah. Drill or impact decidedly don't need a big battery, but later on you might buy more stuff and it'll be better to have a big battery around.
>limestone
No idea, ask Grok.

>>2992257
Do i actually need the impact/hammer versions? I think the heaviest things ill be doing is driving 2 inch wood screws and drilling pilot holes for them maybe a few dozen at a time at most.
And is it worth saving 50 bucjs on 3rd party batteries or is it too much of a gamble?

>>2992265
>need impact
No, you don't need impact, it's just nice to have.
>3rd party batteries
Yeah no, just buy the genuine ones. I've messed around a fair bit with batteries and the only aftermarket purchase that isn't full regret is a 8Ah 21700 Makita battery pack, which isn't really 8Ah, but delivers current better than a 6Ah 18650 pack, so it's good for high power tools like rotary hammer or angle grinder. The one thing you can save money on is battery for impact and a few other small intermittent use tools, where you can get away with a 2Ah pack. But I don't recommend 2Ah for combi drill. Also if you are in the US, you get tons of tool and battery combo deals, so just grab something like that.

>>2992265
Get a big impact drill that you can turn off the impact. Use that to drill holes in the limestone in a line and put dry sticks in there, then wet them to split it predictably.

Makita is one of the better choices if you’re going to go battery powered. They basically invented them.

>>2992269
>>2992271
Thanks guys. Makita uses XPH instead of DHP here in the states so that was what confused me. Looking at them the XPH16 looks good?
Im also looking into how to store and move things. Veto packs seem to have really great reviews but at 300 dollars im not really sure. Id like a backpack style tool bag. My job is moving me to do some traveling work which will be oitdoors, and id like to keep my shit organized and not have to worry about them getting fucked up.

>>2992281
I'd maybe go with the 14 if you go brushless, just to avoid that stupid integrated clutch wheel thing I described with the 486. XPH10 is the DHP482, XPH16 is 486.

>>2992269
>No, you don't need impact, it's just nice to have.
no you need it

>>2992626
Only time you ever explicitly need it is when driving something high torque. Drill maxes out at 60Nm (fancier ones at 150), impact even cheap ones do 180Nm, fancier/bigger 1000+.

>>2992265
Small impact drills are for throwing fasteners without predrilling. Think deck screws, large lags, socketing bolts. They don't function a lot differently than a standard drill, but their behavior makes it much easier to hold onto the screws as you set them. They have a lot more torque which is normally good, but rookies can damage things over tightening or using the wrong screws.

Impacts punch in the direction of torque, but hammer punch forward. SDS demo hammers are really the answer generally in this regard because it's hard to get into concrete and masonry with small hammerdrills.

>>2992252
most of yall non trades diyers can go with Ryobi and are pretty versatile. i use some ryobi tools with makita or milwaukee battery adapters