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What if you used this but on the entire metal part of the gun?
Showing all 25 replies.
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>>65211689
then you'd probably be over the age of 60
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>>65211689
You'll get crap, which is what you deserve.
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>>65211689
they sell it in jars and creams, it's not as good as a real blue but if properly done will be blue
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>>65211689
Then you can list it on gunbroker for twice the price of an unmolested example.
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>>65211689
In the pooper.
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>>65211689
I want one of these but in neon green
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>>65215311
But who was shoe?
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It would look like complete shit
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>>65216922
It will look really bad.
OP, if you wanna blue, just look up how to actually do it, it's actually not that hard. Firebluing can also be done, is also easy, and which can look rather pretty, though isn't very strong.
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It’s ok for touching up light nicks on steel parts, I have used it on some phosphate and QPQ barrel marks.
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>>65218161
hot blue involves dipping the metal in a tank of boiling salt to convert the iron on the surface into iron 2 oxide. cold blue is a chemical solution containing selenium and other shit that reacts with steel to make a thin black layer on top.
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>>65218161
cold bluing but done well with plenty of prep and many "coats".
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What's the difference between hot blue and cold bluing? Is one objectively better than the other?
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>>65218178
hot bluing is objectively better, cold bluing is something that you can buy in a literal pen or jar
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>>65218171
That definition of hot blue sounds like Parkerizing. Parking metal adds a phosphate finish right?
>>65218172
Isn't a blue finish oxidation? How do you coat oxide?
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>>65218186
no parkerizing is a different process that uses manganese or zinc phosphate to create a porous microstructure on the surface of the steel that is good at trapping oil. a practical difference for example is that you can have a polished blue finished, but parkerizing will always be matte.

>>65218186
real bluing is iron oxide. cold blue is different.
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>>65218194
What's the benefits of choosing Parkerizing vs. bluing? I kinda want to try parking my cz82 because the finish is worn down and I like the look of my cz52 in gray phosphate.
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>>65218207
parking is easier to diy. it mostly comes down to which look you prefer.
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>>65218213
Does a parkerized finish require more maintenance? Because of its porous nature, does it need to be oiled regularly?
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>>65218224
Yes
>>65211689
Just mix table salt, vinegar, and hydrogen peroxide, paint your parts with the solution, then boil them.
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>>65218224
>Because of its porous nature, does it need to be oiled regularly?
yes but it's not like you don't have to oil bluing so functionally there isn't a ton of difference.
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>>65218230
This is a shit recipe and will look like ass. Just use Iron III chloride and dilute it to between 1.5-3%. swap with hydrogen peroxide if impatient or leave it to rust on the air, then boil and card. Worked like a charm on my Italian shit sticks and a temu Mauser from a CCP arsenal
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>>65211689
Imagine the smell
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>>65218207
Parking is cheaper to do on a mass scale, and more durable than bluing, which is why bluing isn't done as much anymore (basically just on civilian commercial weapons, and those aiming towards an older look and feel).

If you look at stuff like the IMI Uzi, they'd parkerize the sheet metal parts, and then depending on production they'd slap a coat of protective paint over that. Cheap and holds up fairly well.
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>>65218719
As I understand it, that's what the Czechoslovaks did to the cz82, and what I thought was finish wear was just the thin paint cover and not the actual finish.

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