Thread #2067331
File: tireshit.png (1.4 MB)
1.4 MB PNG
>why can't I balance these rims edition
Resources:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/
https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-help
https://www.youtube.com/@RJTheBikeGuy/videos
https://www.youtube.com/@durianriders
Neutral Support News on Youtube
Previous thread >>2065530
326 RepliesView Thread
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: 0057772.jpg (17.9 KB)
17.9 KB JPG
What makes lower end Shimano hubs so smooth and quiet? Other "pedestrian" hubs are all twice as loud and do a big clank when you catch the engagement point, and expensive shit is all buzzsaws.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>2067406
Everything is packed in heavy grease because the loose ball bearings are right next to the pawls and the pawls are large and heavy. Cartridge bearing hubs can be used with light oils which is the chief reason why expensive hubs are so loud. Tear your shimano hub apart, clean the grease off everything, and rebuild it with phil wood tenacious oil and I'll bet it will significantly enlouden it.
>>
>>
>>2067432
Most likely if it's oil now, grease will make it quieter. It can also introduce more drag on the freehub, so watch out for that. You wouldn't want to throw a chain just for a quieter hub, right? Well maybe you would, but most wouldn't.
>>
>>2067037
Whatever you buy, also budget a complete tuneup with servicing the suspension components and replacing pivot bearings (if a full sus). The tuneup should also touch hub/bb/headset bearings. MTB people tend to be super hard on their bikes and don't service them until they physically do not function.
>>
Anyone have experience with toseek carbon handlebars? Specifically ZXB-TWO if that matters.
Couple years ago I got sent these by accident and the seller never asked for that back after shipping the correct ones so I've had them sitting on the shelf since. They seem fine and are pretty stiff but I'm hesitant to actually fit them.
>>
>>
>>
I was considering getting a canyon endurace allroad as my everyday bike + road bike.
Id be biking about 2km each way but I live in a pretty spread out town so it could easily be 5 or 6km on the way home.
Id also like to start road biking / light gravel.
Ive had 2 grizl 6s before but they were stolen when I lived in the city but Ive since moved. I found that I never really used the low gears and never shifted to the smaller front cog.
https://www.canyon.com/en-de/road-bikes/endurance-bikes/endurace/allro ad/endurace-allroad/4164.html/
What do you guys think?
>>
>>2067468
Sounds like a good use case for a fixie or a single speed, I'm usually the last to say don't get a road bike but bro. You never even used the full gear range? Big surprise there with your 6km ride.
If your good bikes keep getting stolen and you're a flatlander who is close enough to just walk, you're a perfect candidate for the shitbikes that /n/ is always pushing on people with more demanding requirements.
>>
>>2067473
Ah my previous commute was 10 each way. I also used previous bikesfor road cycling (usually 30-60km rides) and I never used the lower gears yeah, only really the high gearsc
Also cos Im a flatlander.
I kinda want that bike not only for commutes but for my entry level road ass where Ill go back go my 30-60km rides.
Im deffo considering a fixie but Id like just one bike right now.
This reply became too big - so my question is: is that bike I linked good value for money for a) commuting and b) longer rides once or twice a week?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
If your bike has even a single part exposed you are a poorfag and I revel in your failure. Why are you adjusting anything let alone replacing it? Just get a Dutch bike and everything comes right off the rack hermetically sealed. It just works.
Stop being retarded hicks. Bicycles are not meant to be serviceable.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>2067505
Awww is the little poorfag gonna cry? Is getting a real job making big figgies too hard for you? Enjoy all the black gunk and salt and jeet shit on your hands because you're too retarded to just get a new Trek when your chain goes bad.
>>
>>
>>
Trying to get the pedals off my bike but the posts around which the flat part of the pedal rotates appears to be welded into place. Is that normal? I'd like to remove my chain to clean it by soaking, too, but the derailleurs are both riveted together so I can't get the chain out.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>2067476
nta but it looks like a pretty good pick. 1k for that is solid, proper hydros and cues is fine. U can always get a better more racey bike used if a nigga just wants a bike now then thats one of the more sensible ones i have seen people link. Friend got an alu cannondale topstone base model with cable dicks for very close to that this would have been a better choice
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>2067491
>Sealed gearbox.
has an exposed freewheel needs oils change relube
>Belt drive
totally exposed to dust and dirt
>Hydraulic brakes
need to be bled pads last ~1000-2000 miles
>Tubeless tires
sealant needs to be swapped every 6 months
>dish wheel
i dont know what these are but they have bearings that need to be serivced or replaced
>Internal routing
cables rub inside frame tight bends cause them to fray or split
>>
>>
File: IMG_8324.jpg (205 KB)
205 KB JPG
>>2067540
What if it breaks while you're riding it retard?
>>
>>
>>2067539
>need to be bled
I keep seeing this yet I've gone almost 15k miles without bleeding, what am I missing, is it going to assplode? Cable dicks were near constant meddling, hydros you just swap the pads a couple of times a year, new rotors every year or two, and you're good to go.
>>
>>2067490
Because they're very image obsessed and "cruisers" sounds like a recreational toy and fun is NOT ALLOWED, if fun was allowed then they would have to admit road bikes are fun. All their accusations about tryhard fred roadies taking themselves too seriously are just projection. NJB told them that VERY SERIOUS dutch people ride VERY SERIOUS NOT FOR FUN dutch bikes because this is NOT a race! I'm not image obsessed, you are! That's why I spent over $2000 importing a Gazelle with stvzo parts instead of just buying a Trek FX that would have done a better job for 1/10th the price.
>>
>>
>>2067555
>>2067555
>"Cruiser" implies high maintenance, utilitarian machinery designed to get you from A to B maybe not as efficiently as possible but certainly as EFFECTIVELY as possible, like a jet bomber that guarantees any target, regardless of distance, will cease to exist in exactly two hours, even if the target is a field mouse directly below the bomb pylon
>"Dutch" implies an easygoing and gently simple set of kit designed for cruis-- moving about the city in a leisurely way made up of very easy to repair but long maintenance schedule parts like hydraulic brakes, sealed gearbox hubs, three-phase electrical generators, and front derailleurs not made by Shimano. It's all about the three main rules of transportation: "have fun" and "b urself".
Why are westoids so incapable of speaking or writing the languages they themselves developed?
>>
>>2067490
same reason "hybrid bike" became "gravel bike" and now costs 100x as much
>>
>>
>>2067490
Dutch Bikes are still marketed as Cruisers sometimes, the Electra Townie is literally just an Electra Cruiser but with some extra shit added to the frame to make it more "utilitarian" for example. I think it had more to do with general bike snobbery. Cruisers evoke going slow by a beach and Dutch bikes evoke going slow through traffic
>>
>>
>>2067581
That really isn't true other than a handful of products at the extreme high end, like hi-mod carbon frames, but I know this being /n/, "expensive" means like "higher tier than Claris". Heavy doesn't necessarily mean strong, it just means they skimped on quality control and instead just threw on as much excess material as possible hoping to make up for it
Like the other guy said, stop being poor
>>
>>
File: 1756842209934323.jpg (14.8 KB)
14.8 KB JPG
>adjusting my rear brake line
>end up stripping the hex screw like a retard before I could properly tension the brake cable from the wheel side
Well fuck me I guess, I guess I'm going to be relying on the front brake until I can get the old rear ones off and replaced.
>>
>>2067591
shit like this is why i shelled out like 20bux to just get a big box of various nuts and bolts from a hardware store. you can literally just buy a kit of like 100 sets of nuts and bolts and washers and it even comes in a little sectioned case
https://www.princessauto.com/en/475-pc-metric-hex-bolt-nut-and-washer- kit/product/PA0008845083
even for brand new shit it's nice to have when it comes with some dumb shit like an all nylon but locking nut and then a rounded off torx head. fuck you nigga im replacing it with a proper hex bolt and a normal ass nut
>>
>>2067582
nope yo're wrong my forks cost $1500 and need a full rebuild every 200 hours a cheap coil fork will function with barely any maintenance
similarly a steel chain-ring will outlast an alloy or titanium one
normal bearings will outlast ceramic etc etc
as costs increase so does the cost of ownership
>>
>>
>>
The sleeve nut on my rear rim brake caliper is seized. I managed to get it moving with a bit of oil and heat so it spins somewhat now, but I can't seem to actually get it out in order to apply grease or something. Does anyone have any ideas?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>2067331
Where /tyre/ general?
Anyway, can a/n/yone recommend me some good, solid, not too expensive tyres for my "sporty" rides on the weekend that will NOT explode after a mere season, NOT puncture after barely touching the tarmac and be a quality ride?
700 x 32 is what I'm currently sporting and don't think the frame could fix anything wider (still has some space left on the busted paselas, but different brands fit at different widths, innit).
Thanks in advance.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>2067629
>never swapped tires before, what am I looking for?
There will be a tube inside, you can keep that forever. Just get new tires that are Trail Rated and make sure they have White sidewalls, that means they're Professional.
>>
>>
>>
How do I overcome fear that the bicycle I disassembled and cleaned then reassembled isn't gonna fall apart because of my incompetence? Hell, I'm most worried about the quick release wheel... There's nothing I could do wrong, but I'm still worried.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>2067691
>Continental GP 5ks
A tit over my budget and also I used to ride on the venerable 4k's some - did they fix the "don't even look at me wrong or I'll rip (whoops already did)" sidewalls?
Michelin "Dynamic Classic Translucent (foldable)" any good?
>>
>>
>>2067744
Visually inspect the chain. If one of the links is different - it most likely is a whatchayakallit link designed to be unsnapped and you will need a caliper-like tool (or strong fingers or a shoelace).
If the entirety of the chain seem uniform - get yourself a chainbreaker.
>>
>>2067744
It probably does not have a master link. You need a chain breaker and you need to find out how many speeds is your drivetrain (look at the cassette, that's the big christmas tree gear thing in the back, and count how many gears are in the stack). That determines the width of the chain which matters (the length will matter too but that's for later).
Now go online to a bike shop, NOT amazon, NOT ebay unless it's an ebay store of a brick and mortar bike shop. Buy a chain of that number of speeds. Now buy a chain breaker. Now go to the park tool site and find a video on how to size (shorten) and install a chain.
>>
File: 3691905042365971778a2409c7a9cfc117b.jpg (623.6 KB)
623.6 KB JPG
Should I buy Endurace AllRoad or Grizl 5? I'm 190 cm and 110 kg (I lift weights and I'm not planning on going below 100 kg) I want something durable and comfortable for long distance in a terrain full of hills. I'm going to ride mostly on normal roads and easy gravel roads. I like the Grizl one because it also gives me the option to bikepack and it seems "tougher" so it will handle my heavy weight better and won't break that easily. One thing that worries me is that a lot of people hate on Canyon customer service.
>>
>>2067747
Canyon is basically a Chinese drop shipper that sells fully assembled parts kits, with an easier (in theory) RMA process. Don't expect an LBS-tier experience and you'll be fine.
The advantage of the Grizl for you is it will fit wider tires so your fat ass can roll over the bumps without as much pain in your ass. Endurace is closer to a full race geometry than people usually assume.
Though if you're bike packing why not get something that is designed to take a rack and panniers from the ground up.
>>
>>
>>
>>2067761
my friend bought some cheap tanwall continentals from ali and got them in a colour that can be best described as "almost purple"
with how uneven the colour was and how they were a lot more tan inside, it's likely they just made a batch of black and then a batch of tan on the same equipment and didn't bother to clean shit out
also the cheapest compound ever, rental bike-tier
would probably be great as rears for fixies, for them skids, but he's not into that
>>
How about Maxxxis Pursuer, then? Could get a decent deal on 'em.
>>2067753
Dunno, mate, weren't the GP4/5k's selling point that they were made in Germany and with that spicy rubber mix? Buying Chinese look-alikes seems to defeat the purpose.
>>
>>2067765
Right, i buy plenty of bike shit from ali but tires?? The fuck
speaking of cheap gp5ks i got some lightly used from ebay lmao i could visibly see the tread had a lot of life left. They came in today. Look good. Lot of people ride a tire for a little then oh noo 28 is not enough i need 32s
Fuck a shit/mid tire vs a good one is like night and day i just do not trust my life on ass tires, whatever bontrager shit came on my trek was horrible would have to slow down behind a car in the wet and just slide
>>
>trying to get tire off
>it's too tight
>literally breaks all
>use a metal prybar to try to get it off
>it crushes the fucking rim before the bead comes off
>fuck it, I'll just fucking cut it then
>steel wire rope bead
why do they do this
why do they design bikes to be as unmaintainable as possible
>>
>>
>>2067774
>>use a metal prybar to try to get it off
also, I can understand being frustrated and impatient with things like this but surely you knew doing this wasn't going to end well lmao. Although I will admit I've gotten out flathead screwdrivers just to pry tires off of old wheels I wasn't going to use again anyways, but you still risk puncturing the inner tube if you do this also, and you typically want to save inner tubes if they're still good.
>>
>>2067775
no of course not and did not even remove it from the bike. also it's underwater in space and I live in mozambique and didn't bring a scuba suit. fuck you retard nigger yes i deflated it and yes I am going to start throwing molotov cocktails at bike shops
>>2067776
fuck it, even the shitty nylon "tire levers" (not a lever and not suitable for any use on or near tires) usually just end up shatterying, slipping, and gouging the tube, assuming it doesn't just pinch or the tube merely fails because it's chinesium junk that will split along its seams when re-inflated
>>
>>2067782
>no of course not and did not even remove it from the bike. also it's underwater in space and I live in mozambique and didn't bring a scuba suit. fuck you retard nigger yes i deflated it and yes I am going to start throwing molotov cocktails at bike shops
You'd be surprised anon, you could have the inner tubes deflated 99% and even the tiniest bit of air inside could be enough to get the tire caught on the rim. I'm just speaking from experience here. Getting the tire off should actually be fairly easy if the inner tube is actually deflated properly.
>>
>>
File: bead-lever-thumbnail_800x.png (437.8 KB)
437.8 KB PNG
>>2067789
Did you use the correct Tool?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>2067806
no, western "cyclists" just throw the entire thing away and get a brand new Specialized every time they get a flat and most formerly user-serviceable parts with defacto standards have been replaced by factory sealed units made to go one one specific series of frame
even wheel dropouts are not only in all manner of sizes now, but even different shapes, assuming you aren't a thru-axle retard
even things as basic as lights now have proprietary systems that can't interact with eachother because everything needs software keys and an App Ecosystem to work over bluetooth/ant/pan wifi/whatever other 2.4ghz nonsense instead of just having a fucking on/off switch
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: titled.png (35.7 KB)
35.7 KB PNG
>>2067865
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: Screenshot_20260316-154709.jpg (125.1 KB)
125.1 KB JPG
>>2067950
gee, that was hard .
this is a current model still being made. if it maxed out at 18mm tires, nobody would buy it. the entire pro peloton is on 28s and anyone not competing is on wider
someone must've put some old rim tape in there?
>>
>>
File: 27074267_1.jpg (397.8 KB)
397.8 KB JPG
opinions on moped kits? like those little gas engines you slap onto a normal bike. are they a total meme or are they actually good?
and if they are actually good how hot do they get? I have a cheapo oldschool mountain bike like picrel and was gonna put it under and forward of the seat, gear it down a fuckton, and effectively try to make it into the world's ghettoest dirt bike
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>2067958
E bike seems like a better deal now like a hub motor is only a few hundred bucks and you won't get hassled by cops
Most of those 2t kits are based off old Russian shit from the 50s and made from Chinese pot metal
>>
>>
>>
>>2067980
my goal was more or less to just extend range and get some extra torque for hills. production hybrid motorcycles already exist and modern ebikes/e-conversion kits already have "regenerative braking" too so it charges the battery gently whenever you're not on the throttle. "tow-charging" is a thing
>>
>>
A week or so ago I got a bike, but it makes weird sounds depending on what gear I'm in when pedalling. 4th and 5th make a tapping clunk in a rhythm, while 2nd and 1st kind of sound like when you pedal backwards. 3rd and 6th are perfectly silent, as well as when I'm freewheeling.
The sound is coming from the back, sounds like near the cassette or derailleur.
Does anyone know what it could be?
>>
>>2068055
the rear derailleur needs tuning. use the OP links to look it up. first, your cable has to have a certain amount of tension in it and the shifters need to move freely and can't be blown (but that's rare.) it sounds like your limits are set right (it's not throwing the chain off either end of the gear cluster) but they may need to be dialed in if the gears on the extreme ends are rubbing. then you use the barrel adjuster for fine tuning. turn it towards the gear that it isn't catching.
thats a basic explanation but especially your first time you just have to fuck with it a lot to sort of get into the headspace of how it all works together.
>>
>>
>>2068069
i love it when retards have no idea what they are talking about
>>
i would like to try riding a bike to work this summer (5 miles, dedicated bike trail most of the way) but i am worried about carrying my stuff
i work 2-5 days in a row out of town so i end up packing a considerable amount of weight and long things like travel guitar and pool cue
it's enough weight that when i put it on the back of my motorcycle i'm in wheely city the whole way
is there a reasonable way to carry this weight on a bicycle? will i be a miserable sweaty mess when i get there?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: Screenshot_20230325-225034__01.jpg (361.9 KB)
361.9 KB JPG
>>2068154
depends I guess but I load my bike down pretty regularly with over $100 grocery runs. and it's hilly here.
with lots of weight you do it like the tourers do: 2 sets of panniers, one set over both wheels. which requires racks mounted over both wheels. putting the front set as low as possible helps with the handling, and there are racks specifically for that but you can also use the sides of a normal rack with a top plate and use the top also.
or, use a trailer.
here's me hauling over 100pounds of gravel in a trailer, but you can see my fold-out baskets I use for most loads
>>
>>2068155
I don't see why not. the general advice is soapy water, so silicone spray sounds legit.
you can also buy a thing called a bead jack. I also highly recommend Pedros levers , the only levers that work for my kevlar bead tires.
>>
>>
File: 74349-01-d-119534.jpg (66.3 KB)
66.3 KB JPG
>>2068164
I'll try silicone spray next.
Can a tire seater like picrel help or is it a meme?
>>
>>2068159
Had this exact shit today i spent hours fucking around with them, tried all the tricks, turns out i just had to inflate them a lot fucking more. definitely snapped into the bead 10x easier on my other wheels
Using fucking valve extenders that kept coming loose and a mini pump (the only pump i have) im not fucking doing this again
Good luck nigga
>>
>>2068165
I've tried something like that tool but to deal with run flat inserts. the vittoria tire tool clampy thingy. I think it's the same concept. I couldn't make sense of how to use it after wrestling with it for hours, eventually I ended up just sawing through the carcass with a knife to pull out the insert, after which I was able to get the (destroyed) tire off
so I'm probably just retarded but just looking at those things makes me irrationally angry, thank you for reading my blog
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: Screenshot_20260319-005553~2.jpg (145.8 KB)
145.8 KB JPG
>>2068165
Tires have a line on the sidewall that lets you check if it's properly seated. Sometimes the tire is just fucked from production and while being properly mounted still has imbalance
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: 633521262_921387107069885_4324278164148804527_n (1).jpg (250.5 KB)
250.5 KB JPG
>>2067591
>end up stripping the hex screw like a retard before I could properly tension the brake cable from the wheel side
Happens to the best of us. I blame the chinese personally
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: armed cyclist.jpg (72.8 KB)
72.8 KB JPG
I tire of drivers and their overly bright lights that cause me to be unable to see further traffic nor threats in the road ahead of me. I have ordered a loudhailer, an overly bright light of my own, and an HK SL8.
Because of the short duration of traffic interactions, I would like to keep a warning brief. Due to language laws in my country, I have to issue warnings in multiple languages. An immediate response in totality of force is required to address such threats against my life. However, How can I reduce the time required for a warning, given the objectively brief time that traffic interactions take?
Something like
>The excessive brightness of your lights has been interpreted as a hostile act.
>You have entered my self-defence zone and I am prepared to defend myself.
>Failure to reduce the brilliancy of your lights and maintain your own lane will result in your death.
>Strike your colours and cease action or you will be destroyed.
works just fine at sea, but at sea a really immediate couldn't be avoided even if it could be prevented collision takes several minutes and where it can be prevented I have much larger munitions available.
I also have a radio and can transmit over both air and maritime calling frequencies, though I'm unaware of any such standard for land vehicles. How do I communicate to drivers that I am prepared and willing to kill them unless they take a reasonable action against them, whom I have acquired by multiple sensors, recorded for the interest of all international transit authorities, and have taken all such action well outside their braking distance?
>>
File: teto.jpg (492.9 KB)
492.9 KB JPG
a year ago i decided to dust off my 18 year old mountain bike i haven't touched in over 10 years. Most of it needs replacements (it was never maintained), working on it has been pretty fun, but the more i work on it, the more things i find to replace.
It's a smaller bike though with 26" wheels, a bit too small for me. I'd love to buy myself a bigger bike, but i'm overwhelmed by choice (or rather lack of it) and the absolute state of the bike market.
It reminds me of smartphones, hundreds of manufacturers making the exact same product, each year with less features, chasing the same trend.
I just want a basic MTB that will be durable and require minimal maintenance. Instead i see:
>1x front drive with thinner, more fragile chain and less resolution than the old 3x drive
>air suspension that requires more maintenance than spring suspension
>hydraulic brakes that requires more maintenance than mechanical brakes
>carbon that cracks and snaps instead of steel or aluminum
>full suspension is a hefty premium now while even my old cheap MTB had it
>they don't even bother to put mudguards or stands on bikes anymore
>generally high prices for what looks like a downgrade over my old bike which costed 10x less when i got it new back in the day
i'm just blackpilled at this point, is going from old steel 26" wheel bike to modern aluminum/carbon 29" wheel bike gonna make such a difference in terms of how it drives at least? Will it not break itself the first time i fall off of it?
>>
>>2068326
>the more things i find to replace.
such is life. nothing has been made properly in decades, maybe over a century
> is going from old steel 26" wheel bike to modern aluminum/carbon 29" wheel bike gonna make such a difference in terms of how it drives at least?
no, it will be the same shit of mostly proprietary nonsense, what uses the least the material with mechanical complexity irrelevant, all made by the lowest bidder so it's guaranteed to fail in a month. get one cheap shitty bike and just maintain it. you won't have any less pain getting a Specialized road bike instead and at least the mtb is a nice waifu to lovingly bang back into shape in your janky DIY "shop" (apartment living room) like a fetlife wife
>>
The flora where I live are constantly shitting razor sharp seeds and whatnot all over the ground and I am pretty sick of endless punctures. What should I do if I want to puncture-resistance-max? Presumably a tubeless setup would help, but would wider wheels help as well?
>>
>>
File: IMG_3915.jpg (2.1 MB)
2.1 MB JPG
Hi, this broke off my axel..what is it and do I need it?
>>
>>
>>2068326
Buy a cheap modern hardtail it will blow your old bike out of the water
https://www.walmart.com/ip/29-MTB/17359864965?wmlspartner=wlpa&selecte dSellerId=0
https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/talon-4-2025
Also all your blackpills are simply hearsay, go ride some bikes and form your own opinions retard. If you really think your shitty unmaintained mtb is better, then keep riding it.
>>
File: C26_C1303GU_CAAD14_1_RAW_PD.jpg (192.7 KB)
192.7 KB JPG
thatll be $7500, goy
>>
File: IMG_8413.jpg (194.3 KB)
194.3 KB JPG
>>2068344
I know robo welds are stronger but they look shit
>>
>>
File: images.jpg (8.5 KB)
8.5 KB JPG
>>2068326
>i decided to dust off my 18 year old mountain bike i haven't touched in over 10 years.
from this statement im going to assume you dont ride and only bought a mountain bike as a 'lifestyle product' when you should have just bought a hybrid/trekking bike
therefore any advances in mtb tech will be of no value to you you're not even going to appreciate why something is better because you have no baseline understanding of the principles behind it
tldr just buy a surly or somthing
>>
Pirelli Cinturato Velo, size 32mm or more, tubeless sealant of your choice. Sharp plant matter does not require steel belts or fatbike silliness. Even the Cinturato Velos are overkill if you have a halfway decent carcass, low pressure, and decent volume with some latex.
>>
>>
>>
>finally get bike tire off
>with the help of bolt cutters
it broke my hacksaw btw. inside are two sets of four strands of 1mm thick steel wire woven into a rope. why do these nigger bike companies insist on making things that cannot be serviced with normal hand tools? how was I or anyone else expected to get this stupid fucking thing off without destroying it or my rim? are bike companies unaware that steel cannot be stretched by hand?
>>
>>2068380
>I forgot that you have to deflate the tire completely before unsetting the tire bead from the rim.
>cannot be serviced with normal hand tools
Have you considered a tire bead jack? Do you have weak grip strength to squeeze the tire to manipulate?
Given, some Continental tires are a bitch to service, especially when brand new.
>>
>>
>>
File: 15234513245231.jpg (59.4 KB)
59.4 KB JPG
>>2068383
>I fucked it up but it's not my fault these stoopid tires are impossible to remove!!!
sounds 100% a skill issue.
>>
>>
ordered some spokes and they're just a little too short. is radial lacing really going to kill me instantly?
also why don't they thread more than the top 1/8th inch, if they would just thread a bit more of the end then you could order whatever size and just clip it to fit. instead you have to find the ONE(1) seller who has the correct spokes for your hub/wheel combo, and unless you get everything from the same one company that shit will never match up properly
>>
If spokes are supposed to be tangential to the hub, therefore not aligned to the radius of the rim, therefore not perpendicular to the tangent of the rim, why are spoke nipples flat on the underside when in an optimal lacing they will NOT sit flat against the rim?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>2068391
>>2068390
Radial lacing is fine. You just need crossed spokes on at least one side to resist twisting in rear wheels or front disc/roller brake wheels.
Threading is the most complex part of spoke production. Making the threaded part longer would make each finished spoke more expensive.
Most nipples are beveled/rounded
>>2068382
Carbon fiber is an amazing material if you want to build something that's light, strong, and in irregular shapes, that's why it's the material of choice for top performance bikes. It's just a material though, so just as there are good steel frames and crappy steel frames, you can't assume a bike is good just because it has a carbon frame.
>>2068055
rear derailer hanger is bent
>>2067950
The rimtape width is the width that strip of material can cover/fit. Appropriate tire width for a given rim is roughly 1.25 - 2X the inner rim width, so for an 18mm inner width rim, tires in the 23-35mm nominal width range are best.
>>
File: threaded rod.png (94.2 KB)
94.2 KB PNG
>>2068396
>Most nipples are beveled/rounded
ive taken apart a few wheels lately and not one has had a rounded underside. the tops are beveled presumably to not gouge through rim tape/distroy naked toobs but they are clearly designed to sit flat through the hole
>Threading is the most complex part of spoke production.
and it is automated, not to mention it's something you learn how to do by hand in a 100 level machinist course
>Making the threaded part longer would make each finished spoke more expensive.
explain picrel? explain ????
>>
>>
File: large_108550_20170203104727.jpg (22.5 KB)
22.5 KB JPG
>>2068397
I think the bevel is mainly to account for variations in rim hole size but helps with the contact surface too. But even without the bevel, the flexibility of the spoke and some slight material deformation are going to have the nipple close enough to flush against the inside of the rim.
Bicycle shops and parts distributors typically don't have the machine tools to cut threads at scale, they use dies for thread cutting/rolling small volumes of custom/uncommon spoke lengths, and these dies are expensive and need periodic replacement. That's why typically they'll just stock many different lengths in 2mm increments from the factories that can produce them at scale.
Finally, as for why the threaded sections are kept short, that's because a threaded rod has less tensile strength than an unthreaded one of the same diameter.
>>
I forced one headset cup at a pretty steep angle into the (aluminium) tube with a headset press, but it's sitting straight and flush with the tube, no cracks visible anywhere, and aligned with the other cup.
Could I have fucked up the tube somehow?
Should I have used a hammer to even out the skewed cup edge before continuing to press it in?
>>
>>
Why don't gear cassettes just fit onto a keyed shaft and instead need a special tool to put on and remove? one nut could keep it on and in place, it's not like gears experience a fuckton of lateral force (at least not any more than the torque of turning it, which is apparently trusted to normal threading which is actually weaker than a keyway mating)
>bbbut it wouldnt be as le strong!!!
It's literally how they do it on small gas engines and those produce WAY more torque than (You)
>>
>>2068404
if you got it in now and the tube didn't crack already it's fine.
>>2068406
Hub axle has to fit through the freewheel/freehub body, that's why threaded lockring with a hole in the middle is necessary
>>2068405
Some operations will have a Phil Wood spoke machine, smaller ones will have a very simple tool for rolling threads that's a pain in the ass for more than one spoke. Again, economically it makes most sense to order boxes of factory threaded spokes.
And there are practical limits to how thick you can make a bicycle wheel's spokes, plus they'll weigh more, and if you insist on threading a long section that reduces how much of the spoke is available for butting or other shaping.
>>
File: 2b8a4115be9398fb65c3f5410399dcad_small.jpg (226.6 KB)
226.6 KB JPG
>>2068407
>And there are practical limits to how thick you can make a bicycle wheel's spokes,
explain?? explain??????
>>
>>2068407
if the cassette tool can deliver enough torque to get the gears off, why can't the same system be used to hold the gears in place and then a thin nut and washer to holt it in place laterally as is used in 99% of other applications where you have to put a thing on another thing and both of em spin?
>>
>>2068382
carbon is the current standard material for non-hipster, non-special-snowflake bikes at the price level of people who actually give a shit about bikes. other materials are for:
1. poors
2. contrarians
3. neurotic low-information high-emotion weirdos
that said, the way the question is worded makes it sound like you think you're going to build up a bike from parts you bought online, let me just save you some time and say you aren't going to save any money doing that. if you're just looking to buy a bike, it's physically impossible to beat the cost savings and low margins of a mainstream brand, so just buy a canyon and move on with your life
>>
>>2068415
>the way the question is worded makes it sound like you think you're going to build up a bike from parts you bought online
Not really, I can buy a $1,500 carbon road bike that has a 58cm/21"/Large frame the next day if I wanted to, already built, put together, road tested, etc.
I was wondering about its durability and comfort for heavy riders, concerns about hairline cracks forming on the carbon frame from general usage, things like that.
>>
>>2068418
Cracks happen because of manufacturing defects, assembly mistakes, or impacts. You can avoid the first item (mostly) by buying from real brands, and have your shit assembled by someone who knows what he's doing
Impacts are honestly impossible to avoid IRL but they are more robust than most people seem to think, you can generally see the damage in some form, it won't look like how a metal bike is damaged, but you can see, and hear it from tapping on the impacted area with a hard object.
I don't know exactly how "heavy" means heavy, if you're american, then you're probably quite the specimen but by international standards you're good at any reasonable size. If you're amerifat, maybe consider a cargo bike or something.
>>
Anon from >>2067658 here.
Just wanted to say I went with maxxxxxis' "re-fuse" "endurance all-season tube type" with "maxxxxxshield" protection tech. Costed me significantly more that the pursuers would, but still a decent deal.
Cheers.
>>
>>
>>
I'm looking to buy a comfortable bike seat on Amazon for my bike, mostly just to hit the amount for free delivery more than anything. I'm not sure what to buy though even in general but my main concern is the seats I'm used to have two metal rods underneath that the seat post simply clamps down on, but all the pictures I'm seeing have weird extra stuff and I don't know if any of them are suitable for my bike.
Please advise, I don't know what I'm doing.
>>
>>
>>
>>2068438
nah dont do that, just get a bunch of extra spokes or a can of oil or something. or even something not bike related that you just need around the house like a chink dragon dildo or 4000 coffee pods or something. a seat should be bought in person so you can touch it
>>
>>
>>2068438
>a comfortable bike seat
A matter of individual preference and compatibility. No two seats are the same and no two asses are the same. If you don't try you won't know.
Good idea would be to measure one's ass bones and get the least cushioned seat in that width (cushioning goes into the bibs), but then again, a matter of personal preference.
>>
>>
>>2067499
ive tried to watch this channel and not only does he say nothing of substance that would excite a traffic engineer wannabe but his voice is so fucking grating. i can feel the TRANAH in his voice, he will never escape it no matter how long he hangs out in "europe" (a netherlands amusement park built over the remains of an animal brothel)
>>
>>2068443
>spokes
I don't even begin to have the knowledge or experience of how to tighten them or by how much.
>Oil
Bought some already recently.
>Something not bike related
That's kind of the problem, there's jack shit I need at all other than what's already in the basket. I can't even think of anything to stockpile, I've already stockpiled anything else I'd realistically need that could be bought from Amazon.
>>2068446
As in those wide, padded seats rather than the standard type.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>2068449
>I don't even begin to have the knowledge or experience of how to tighten them or by how much.
First step would be to get a decent truing stand. Next thing I would do, instead of relying on those built-in 'gauges', mount a couple dial indicators on both sides of the wheel, that way you can visually see which direction the rim is shifting when either tightening/loosening a spoke.
>>
>>
>>2068449
>That's kind of the problem, there's jack shit I need at all other than what's already in the basket.
are you sure you don't need a dragon dildo because a while back i pulled the trigger on the Chink Dragon Dildo juist to get free shipping and it has unironically held up better than and feels better than and is more reasonably ergonomic and better ass-capacity-gradient tuned actual Bad Dragon products. And it was like 20.99 and i literally just wanted some fucking tubes and tires but still got the "If you spend at least 35$ you get free shipping doe!!!" warning and had the same story of filling the cart to spend more money than I'd save by just not but taking the excuse to buy shit I simply want rather than need.
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: SB-5G_5gal_Tube_Front_copy.jpg (485.7 KB)
485.7 KB JPG
>>2068469
look man when you're already shopping for Slime™ products for your 26" bicycle, how bad is it to get a 26" tentacle to go along with it
>>
>>
>>2068449
>As in those wide, padded seats
he literally just told you to get the least cushion. only slightly wider than the two bones it is built to support. how much wider? debatable, and also depends on how "engaged" with the saddle you ride. basically how upright vs aero you are. you're usually at least a little leaned forward, which shortens that width.
the saddle is a perch for your legs to power the crank, not a fucking easy chair. those type of saddles work against you, not with you
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: 1345234513.png (1.9 MB)
1.9 MB PNG
>>2068543
>>
>>
File: IMG_8945.jpg (127.1 KB)
127.1 KB JPG
Prolly pointless asking here but has anyone slapped tt bars on their non-rounded carbon aero bars? seeing clamps like this coming up but shit just looks kinda sketchy idk if id trust it
>>
>>
File: 1774306435220.jpg (1.7 MB)
1.7 MB JPG
what is this round thing?
>>
>>
realistically, how much am I slowing myself down by
a) having thick leg hair, arm hair, and a full beard
b) wearing a non-aero helmet
c) riding on 35mm heavy tires (pirelli cinturato velo for puncture resistance since the roads where I live are godawful)
I mean I know tires can matter but I don't feel like I'd be much faster at all if I changed anything. I ride about 50 miles daily (80km) and average around 21.5 - 22mph (35kph) most days, some days more some less on the same daily route I ride. A fast ride is close to 23mph if the winds are low. I ride a modern carbon endurance bike too.
>>
>>
>>2068575
>average around 21.5 - 22mp
does anyone have the "weak as fuck" pasta?
but anyway, if you aren't competing, then what difference does it make? are you not having enough fun riding your bike? do you honestly think whatever marginal gains you'd get shaving your beard and body hair would be perceptible to you while riding? because I don't think you would.
and if you could tell the difference, would that be more important than having your personal style be "guy with beard" in all the life you spend off the bike, which is most of it? or are you chasing KOMs like a tool?
>>
>>2068575
You can try full length cycling kit for the body hair but i do not think that is going to be noticeable at all
TT style aero helmets look really fucking stupid but might make you a tiny bit faster
Tires? idk my roads are shit and I don’t run anything with puncture resistance, still don’t really get punctures
Im assuming your terrain is pretty flat, aero stuff is sorta noticeable but fuck it man get tt clip ons or narrower bars or deeper wheels something cool instead of shaving ur fuckin arms
>>
>>2068577
I can hit about 40 mph with a 53x11 on the flats with my road bike. I can hold this for a few miles before I burn out. I always end up running out of gearing with a 46t when in route to the trails.. I understand you think you are some eilte rider that 'knows' everything about biking but I think you are just weak as fuck.
>>
>>
File: 1761813478418549.jpg (34.2 KB)
34.2 KB JPG
I shaved my entire body, wear a tight aerodynamic bodysuit, chopped my penis off since the tight suit accentuated my large girth which made it less aerodynamic otherwise, and exclusively ride in an aerodynamic recumbent bicycle, I regularly do 100+ mph on the freeway and am frequently stopped by police for speeding. It's a heavy price to pay for aeromaxxing.
>>
>>2068586
A recumbent bicycle with an aero shell would mean you could wear whatever you like and be as hairy as you want and still be slipperier to the wind than the most perfectly shaved upright rider. Seems like we should all just be doing that.
>>
while we're on the subject of aero, how fast should I expect to be going on a Cruiser? I feel like I can regularly do around 18mph in top gear on a flat in a tailwind but average is closer to 15 and if there's a headwind it's closer to 12
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: Screenshot_20260324_074715_Photos.jpg (512.7 KB)
512.7 KB JPG
Will I destroy my grabbel shitter with 2.2 MTB tires? I haven't yet.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: sddefault.jpg (53.5 KB)
53.5 KB JPG
>>2068583
all the coronatarded arrivistes and babby unracers seething unironically at this classic pasta. the west truly has fallen
>>
>>
>>2068659
You sound like a working class chump. I bet you thought it would be a great "investment", how you would wake up to a nice, healthy ride to start off your long day. Maybe, you even had a couple thoughts about all the other nifty little uses you could find for the bike, how it would help you live healthier in general, shed a couple pounds off the old gut, boost your confidence around work and with the ladies. Yeah, maybe that Specialized would start your life again, wouldn't it? I can see your strained hands holding the pamphlet and reading through it carefully at your LBS. A little bit scary, but you're the type of guy who thinks everything is more than you can deal with, aren't you. And look what happened to you. Look what that bike did to you. Fucked you over, and made you its useless bitch. You don't even fucking like wrenching. "Piece of shit," you've been repeating those three words your whole life, haven't you. Yeah, how was work after that piece of shit fucked you over? I bet it was on your mind the whole day, you probably didn't say shit to nobody. Can't be telling people about your mistakes. How your little fix yourself plan, failed you. Don't want people to start thinking you're the failure. You're the piece of shit, all along. You don't want that do you? You don't want to be the piece of shit everybody secretly whispers about, do you? Was your father a piece of shit like you? I bet he never rode a bike. He had a woman, a house, a damn good vehicle. I bet it's rolling you the fuck out, isn't it. Comparing yourself to him. How one day when all the gas runs out of your life, you'll discover how you're nothing more than road salt to be scraped off and thrown in the sewer.
>>
File: strega-nona-820x482.jpg (90.1 KB)
90.1 KB JPG
>>2068661
Excellent adaptation of a classic pasta. However, the original pasta said "scrapped off".
>>
>>2068661
>>2068690
Oh also one other thing - I would have left "a little expensive but" untouched. The timidity and insecurity were adequately insinuated by the rest of the text. The "little expensive" part was a nice extra unnecessary dig at anon's inability to purchase a $65 slow cooker without stressing over the cost. Kick 'em while they're down. That's part of what made it so great.
>>
File: what are u.jpg (1.1 MB)
1.1 MB JPG
>>2068576
>>2068658
you can just say you don't know what it is
but for real what is this thing?
>>
File: IMG_8490.jpg (75.7 KB)
75.7 KB JPG
>>2068732
It's a trailer hitch
>>
>>2067432
>Service my freehub to make it more silent
Reasonable
>packed in heavy grease because the loose ball bearings are right next to the pawls and the pawls are large and heavy
Full of shit, and doesn't actually do this service
Can't believe I waited a year to revisit this board, and this is what I see first off
See you in two years
>>
>>
>>
>>2068757
i do the opposite (disc in back, rim in front) and everyone says it's a crackhead setup and the disc should be in the front if i only have one. idk why but i can only surmise you are a normie if you came to that on your own without even seeing a bike that has only one disc brake first
>>
>>2068757
I think that's called a "mullet"? pretty sure it's a thing, anyway.
shit, it's going to be impossible to avoid on any bike you need to replace the fork on, since rim forks are going extinct. though you can always drill the crown I guess. but there'll be a disc mount on everything before long, like it or not
>>
>>2068762
Its a bit crackhead tho generally you don’t need more braking power on the rear than you do on the front you would just skid. If i stop hard i am using my hands to brake bias and squeeze the front a lot harder
Back is just for light breaking in corners
>>
>>
I have a bike which was cheap and well-equiped 10 years ago, with 11-speed 105 and Shimano alloy wheels, but the frame itself was average/bad. Does buying a new frame and transplant pretty much everything (groupset, wheels, brakes, handlebar) makes sense ? I'm eyeing a Trek Emonda ALR frameset for ~460€, I figure it's a better idea than getting a complete new bike, since the 11-speed 105 is pretty much good enough, and I don't really care for disc brakes.
>>
>>
>>
File: IMG_9020.jpg (464.6 KB)
464.6 KB JPG
>>2068767
u could. Why is that frame so fucking much though rimbrake framesets are cheap as balls you should be able to get something sexy
I have a 2023 disc brake emonda and i love it but the old rim version has a really sloped head tube can’t you find a caad or something
Copped this frame for 200
>>
>>2068776
Cheap (very visible solders), somewhat heavy, and can't fit 28mm tyres. I'm not sure about the geometry either, I was never able to get properly comfortable with it.
>>2068777
It's a 2023 set with visibly QR and rim brake mounts. I wouldn't it if it was disc brakes, the expense of changing wheels and brakes would likely be too much.
>>2068780
I'm not too confident getting a second-hand frame, I wouldn't be sure I'd properly examine it for issues. And new, even with clearance, it seems rare to find a good deal.
>>
>>
>>
>>2068764
my thought was if i need to just modulate my speed i can depend on rims sometimes (unless it is cold out, wet out, both due to snow, or I have ever braked ever in my life more than once so the shoes have disintegrated) but if I need to stop right fucking meow at the cost of my legs I can completely lock the rear, rather than lock the front and crush my fucking skull in a frontflip. or at least use it gently and not eat absolute shit on cold/wet/icy tarmac but also trust that it will work at all (assuming it hasn't been utterly contaminated by road salt and incontinent cage droppings like motor oil, hydraulic fluid, or yet more salt)
also a bit of cope because i had the opposite problem as >>2068765, my frame had >HOLES for it but my front fork did not.
>>
>>2068785
Just get used man fucking yolo it
>>2068790
My worry is just trying to stop hard with the back just sends you into a skid, it depends how fast you are planning to go but fuck id much rather have a working front and just get my weight over the back of the bike, back disc brake alone won’t even stop me down a hill really I would not fucking wanna try that
Just get a front fork and run discs
fuck it run whatever brakes you want really but I can’t think of many upsides for having one disc on the back
don’t mind my rimbrakes even on carbon rims, the pads were expensive but feels just as confidence inspiring as my disc bike
I guess if I had to have one working brake I choose front tho otherwise im just rolling down a hill into a skid never actually stopping
>>
>>2068798
>My worry is just trying to stop hard with the back just sends you into a skid,
it does but basically losing the rear but still having grip on the front is more controllable than losing the front, and if you lose it badly enough that you fall generally slipping with the front will send you forward and you'll smash your hands/collarbone/head which sucks way worse than falling with the rear where you will fall on your hips or arms
if you only have one set of brakes AT ALL then yeah the front is massively superior, but imo the more powerful brakes should go in the back if you have brakes at all on both. rubber rim brakes engage a little more smoothly/linearly whereas discs don't do much until you have a fair amount of pressure, at which point they work very well. so having rubber shoes on the front is better for control and the back disc is there for actually stopping or slowing down a lot for safety or traffic
>>
>>
>>
>>
oh man my chain wear is down to 1% the tool is even wobbly on the 1.0 side how the fuck did i let it get so bad and here i was smug i barely have to do any maintenance on my new bike at close to 7k kms apparently you literally check with a ruler
i guess i was thinking i haven't even had one puncture yet so what else could be bad
front big chainring has definitely turned very spikey but then lot of pics of chainrings also have spikey teeth so is it okay for the new chain for a while
chainrings are not available at all i want to get a whole crank later maybe something smaller than 50-34 but still compatible with the derailleur
should i also open and grease all bearings at this point
i still have no idea how to open and clean the road shifters lot of dust in there
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>2068512
>how am I suppose to fight this?
By struggling for 5 hours, being brought on the verge of impotent tears, struggling some more and finally making it in a fit of caveman rage while yelling a litany of courses at the top of your lungs.
Only to see you put it backwards and try yet again.
It _is_ going to be much easier the 2nd time since the bead got stretched on the first try.
>>2068544
>start at the edge
>impotently observe the other edge just slip out always keeping the exact same amount of unmounted tyre openly mocking you
Not sure about the correct way, but that clearly ain't it.
>>
>>2068839
>impotently observe the other edge just slip out always keeping the exact same amount of unmounted tyre openly mocking you
Well you got two hands don't you?, keep the opposite end pinned in place so it doesn't unravel as you're setting the rest of the bead in the rim.
>>
>>2068839
>the other edge just slip out
yeah you fucking gay fucktard, you put the other lever against the far edge to hold it from doing that Jesus Christ you shit up these threads with you rage quitting the literal easiest things that nobody else fails at because the procedure is so obvious they don't even notice. plus there's videos showing you exactly how to do everything now. you're too stupid to live. shut up. go away.
>>
File: dizzy.gif (2.2 MB)
2.2 MB GIF
>>2068828
amazing how far we've come that the orginal image was of some unknown character but these days, it is a character from a game maybe 90,000 people have played at least once this year, and it is in a setting where personal commuter cars no longer exist except for one(1) villain who only drives it to bother people and it only bothers people because india still exists and still has tanks
>>
>>
>>2068881
m8 you cant even order fucking spokes in without them being made of pot tin. this isn't just a bike parts thing. everything in modern manufacturing is gutter trash made to fail instantly as part of a larger rent-seeking scheme. it's over
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
do i need something special to hold a 700c wheel to torque it 40nm? or can i just use my legs and hold it against the ground?
need to change batteries for my wheel sensor, and the manufacturer, in their infinite wisdom, made the screw face the center lock ring-mounted disc brake
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: file.png (637.3 KB)
637.3 KB PNG
>>2068953
>>2068918
cool, so i wouldn't even need to de-air my tire, right?
one more question, is this the right wrench?
the disc brake is a shimano and i did count 16 notches around the lock ring
i couldn't find any serial number or model number
>>
>buy used bike
>everything works fine
>take chain off to deep clean it
>take wheel off to scrub cassette cuz everything is really grimy
>put everything back together and lube
>go ride
>chain twists up or something, comes off, everything locks up
what did I fuck up? bent derailleur or hanger accidentally when taking the wheel off maybe? I did notice some drivetrain noise that wasn't there before after I put everything back together.
pls advise I want to ride bike ;_;
>>
>>
File: Screenshot_20260329_140646_Photos.jpg (1.7 MB)
1.7 MB JPG
I have painted a tube horribly in preparation to paint a shitbike. Going for poverty titanium gravel bike look.
>>
>>
>>
File: jubei IN REAL.jpg (2.6 MB)
2.6 MB JPG
will cagies and dentists stop fucking with me on the road if i start open carrying a Lucerne Hammer
>>
>>2069037
not really, the advantages/disadvantages of toob'd/toobless have more to do with weight and maintenance, which both can be overcome with different tires regardless of which one you prefer. like you can save 3g of rubber in the front or have 3 extra grams of weight in the back but at the same time you can just do literally fucking anything else to adjust your weight distribution, including just leaning forward or back very slightly. and if you think one wheel is too much of a pain to maintain more than the other, well, git gud
>>
>>
>>