File: drivetrain.jpg (3.0 MB)
Drivetrain of the Immaculate Conniption Edition
Resources:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/
https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-help
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RxIl5-hAO3c
Neutral Support News on Youtube
previous thread: https://boards.4chan.org/n/thread/2071970/" target="_blank">https://boards.4chan.org/n/thread/2071970/
Showing all 357 replies.
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File: trek.jpg (73.2 KB)
>>2073581
looking to get a new bike. I can't decide if I should go with a road bike or gravel. I want to get into road riding. I would be getting a trek. So it's between the checkpoint alr and Domane AL. The al 2 gen 4 looks so sexy. Can road bikes go on gravel bike paths or will it pop the tires?
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>>2073596
Don't buy a bike with cable disc brakes. Most modern road bikes can take 32-34mm tires easily and that's more than adequate for most gravel riding. Is it "optimal"? Maybe not but if you go much fatter it's going to feel very sluggish on pavement.
If that's your target bike I imagine budget is a concern. I suggest you continue your search and find a bike with brakes that don't suck. Even if it means buying used or a less famous brand. Canyon has a low end road bike with full hydraulic braking.
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>>2073596
>I can't decide if I should go with a road bike or gravel
Translation: I need a gravel bike or cyclocross. Just my opinion, but unless you are an elite rider you will be wanting more using a road bike on gravel than a gravel bike on the road.
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>>2073604
Cyclocross bikes are just aggressive road bikes with knobbies and should never have been memed on civilians, the entire purpose of the sport is to make a spectacle of yourself struggling through mud on an artificially obnoxious circuit. The concept of a non-competitive cross bike was just invented because normies are too insecure to be seen buying a "hybrid" even though that's what most cyclocross buyers really wanted and needed.
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>>2073613
People should ride what they need. I agree, nobody needs a "cyclocross bike" (which doesn't really exist since any bike can and should be a cyclocross bike) but what is/was marketed as a cyclocross bike is pretty much the ideal hybrid/commuter for enthusiasts. Most come with rack and fender mounts, clearance for a wide range of tire sizes, and plenty of room for cleaning fork and rear triangle without removing wheels. All while being strong and relatively light weight with geometry for good performance. Which is why I recommended it to someone who is clearly a cycling enthusiast who wants to ride on and off road. I wouldn't recommend one to some college girl who wants to ride to school from the bus stop.
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>>2073598
This. Rim brakes are the only way to go. mech DICKS are for retarded people who don't understand brake modulation.
NEVER buy a bike with disc brakes. Even if you >neeeeed them you should have them done by a qualified mechanic at your LBS, not the wagie at the factory.
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>>2073616
That style of bike was in most respects fine (and wasn't really a true CX bike in the first place), except for one fatal flaw: it peaked during the nadir of cable disc garbage. So buying a new one is unlikely to happen (you're getting something that is more suited for competition, missing the rack mounts and fender mounts etc), and buying a used one means you're buying someone else's regrets (a cable dick monstrosity)
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>>2073596
both are a huge meme but if your city isn't glass flat roads that are dry 24/7 the "gravel bike" is a better option. but really a "gravel bike" is just a road bike with wider tires on it, MAYBE a suspension. and even with those wider tires you might not get any tread on them with the stock tires, and having a suspension is considered to be unracer fred garbage by the "engineers" at those companies, and probably your wheels will be some slightly-wider-than-700C retardation to trap you into a Product Ecosystem where you need their specific "gravel bike" tires (likely toobless, but not actually sealed! enjoy buying 15.99 rubber bands and something that definitely isn't just Slime but 3x the price!!) instead of just having normal ass 26/27.5/29 x 1 inch wheels
>Can road bikes go on gravel bike paths or will it pop the tires?
thanks to modern made-to-fail engineering for rent-seeking corporations, neither can go on a road without popping the tires, let alone a trail
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>>2073629
This strawman again. Rim brakes are great. Hydraulic disc brakes are great. Cable disc brakes are an abortion that arose from consumers demanding something that didn't exist at the prices they were willing to pay, and bike manufacturers buckling and giving them a bad solution just to make a few sales.
Hydraulic brifters have been available at the "affordable bike" price point for a good 4-5 years now and there is no excuse for cable disc unless it's something you were stuck with because you didn't know better. And I guess that's you, and rather than admit the truth you will just try to argue against a person that doesn't exist.
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>>2073633
Oh hi wound collector guy, just to translate this for noob anon, "hi I'm angry about everything to the point of being wrong often" (not to be confused with Often Wrong, the father of Lt. Cmdr. Data)
The fact is, tires are much better now than they used to be.
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>>2073635
This. Cable dicks are for the factually disabled and physically retarded. They have no reason to exist. Much like the ""people"" using them. It is an abomination against the Lord. The only thing that should be actuating disc brakes is SM-LV Oil, not a fucking cable. Grant Forester didn't die for us to be wasting grams on brake rotors without getting optimum Modulation.
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>>2073596
The Domane has clearance for 38s, which is plenty for the kind of riding you probably want to do. Don't get the 2, cable dicks are retarded and Claris fucking sucks. The 4 is fine but 5 gets you Shimano's current best mechanical group and is a full pound lighter. You'll want to change the tires regardless of where you're riding because Bontrager tires are garbage.
Get a Checkpoint if you can't figure out how a front derailleur works.
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Mech dicks do nothing good for a bicycle. They ruin your cadence, they have no modulation, and they disrupt your PAN. Anyone still riding mech dicks in 2026 should be banned from their peloton.
Name even one reason to use mech dicks in 2026. Go on. Try.
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>>2073663
>>2073659
>>2073639
>>2073654
On a whim, I checked one of the other threads where "someone" is having a very public mental health episode today.
To my great surprise, snow pose anon appears to have a bike with cable disc brakes >>2064508
Curiously, he seems to have a recurring problem with getting IP purged >>2064504
for what reason we can only speculate. Certainly not his behavior.
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File: 1632640074496.gif (7.4 KB)
>>2073706
assuming she'll want to ride a lame bike with an upright posture, probably one of those tractor-seat-looking abominations.
the more athletic, proper posture leads to widths approaching the sit bone width, where triathlete/time trial full aero is right at sit bone width.
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File: 1000023784.jpg (1.3 MB)
They didn't frickin tell me this would happen. Can I just want to get rid of this crap now. Can I take it off myself?
Also I just washed my bike but didn't rinse it thoroughly as I've been told that you should por water over your bike because it'll wash the grease off of everything you don't want it to like bearings, what's the best way to fishin it off after washing?
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>>2073786
>take 2 minutes to put 4" wide tape on underside of downtube
>14 years of gravel later, no paint chips
Problem? This is too boring for me to debate further by the way. The tape looks like the day I installed it.
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just here to say that lock nuts are BULLSHIT and when i am MAYOR OF EARTH i will ban them forever. sure they hold fine. but you wanna take it off ever? enjoy destroying your threading and probably the nut too. anti-consumer unmaintainability masquerading as "security"
and fuck SAE too. metric for lyfe
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>>2073834
People with steel bikes get dents in them too, they just keep riding them and usually nothing bad happens. Usually. Plenty of carbon frames with damage that are getting used every day too, and usually, it doesn't result in catastrophe. The difference is carbon symbolizes "nice" because it used to be expensive, so when shit does go wrong, everyone gets excited and tucks it into their quiver for the next internet argument about how "nice" things are a scam.
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>>2073840
steel/ti/alu won't fail catastrophically like carbon can unless you ignored it far past anything reasonable. the smallest damage to carbon and you need to get it x-rayed to see how far the damage goes. it can be repaired in a lot of cases, for a price of course.
under perfect conditions carbon is pretty cool. anything less than perfect and it can be an expensive repair or catastrophic accident. just not worth it imo
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>>2073841
You don't need an xray to see damage to an exposed part, this >>2073834 is clearly damaged. Just about any real world crash that will cause damage to the underlying fiber will cause damage to the surface finish. The concerns about insidious damage failing "totally out of nowhere" are almost always either a manufacturing defect or a very specific kind of user error (most common one that comes to mind is the "ring of death" phenomenon on a steerer tube).
Manufacturing defects happen and when they do it's usually on a product that's pushing the limits of strength and lightness, this is something you find on small-batch, prestige/boutique products aimed at competition. So of course retards see some unobtainium set of $14,000 hi-mod wheels made by one guy in his basement, that weigh 500g for the set, and there was a problem with the heat treatment and there's only like 2 layers of fiber and some fat fred wrecks them in front of a crowd of spectators, and inevitably all the salty poors who can't even afford a full 105 cannondale go on the internet and say they would never buy an "expensive carbon bike", it's tradition at this point
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>>2073598
>Maybe not but if you go much fatter it's going to feel very sluggish on pavement.
Honestly I don't feel this way at all. I ride 35mm road tires and wouldn't have it any other way.
I can turn so much better than when I used to use 28mm tires, and go much faster on turns too.
My ride is so much more comfortable, and a more comfortable ride is a faster ride.
I can ride at lower tire pressures for more comfort on bad roads where I live.
Hasn't impacted my speed much if at all either, rolling resistance is higher yes but it's only a few watts and unless you're like an actual amateur athlete it won't matter at all.
The lowest tire size I'd use now even for a road bike are 32mm, it's just more comfortable especially if you're riding longer distances.
>>2073603
A Trek Domane Aluminum was my first road bike ever about a decade ago. I now ride a Domane carbon frame with 35mm tires on it. Just make sure you replace the shitty tires Trek puts on their bike, they are no good and very puncture prone. Get some quality Pirelli cinturato velo / evo and you will basically never get punctures.
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>>2073854
I ride 32mm, but I'm also not very heavy, so tire pressure doesn't need to be high for me. I started on 23mm tires back in the dark ages and this seems like more than enough. After test driving a few high end gravel bikes with bigger tires I have no desire to go there. Feels like one of those nightmares where your legs have turned to mud. But it all depends on your riding conditions and preferences, I guess.
As for Cinturato Velo, if this were the 23mm dark ages or even 25mm, I'd say yeah, there is no such thing as overkill. The more kevlar and aramid fibers the better. But on these big wide soft high tech modern tires, it's rare to deal with punctures anymore. Especially when you go... oh no he's going to say it... TOOBLESS. No experience with Trek tires but my last 2 road bikes, purchased in 2019 and 2023, the midrange tires that came on the bike were totally fine. Were they the tires I'd buy for myself? Nah not really, but riding these big wide carcasses means most of the agonizing we used to do over grip or punctures is just not much of a big deal anymore. Of course it makes a difference but not worth throwing out perfectly good tires over. I say just wear out the factory rubber and then overthink your tires.
Unless they're really narrow, that is. In which case definitely change them right away.
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>>2073861
In the technical sense of "brand" yeah I'd say it's good. They're sort of an unracer brand without being annoying about it.
Is it good for you? Maybe. They've tended towards some questionable combos over the years, like QR + dickbrakes. Half their lineup is still cable dicks. Like $2000 bikes with fucking BB7s. I'm not sure who buys that shit. I do see them here and there but I can't tell if they bought it in 2015 or in 2025.
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Is it actually bad to re-use chain links/pins? I broke a chain, realized I couldn't get hte one more link i wanted, and just put it back with the same tool I pushed it out in the first place. seems secure enough. but will I die now?
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File: yugl.png (114.9 KB)
I'll be repainting my frame, it'll have a fade from green to teal like the pen on the right (hopefully, if I don't fuck it up). Bike's just a baisic aluminium btwin commuter, nothing special. But I feel like it'll look too boring without something written on it, so I need ideas before I cut the masking stickers and go on with it.
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I’m fat, 298 at 6’1. with that in mind, is the ozark trail g1 explorer L a decent starter bike? Specifically is it easy to learn wrenching on? There’s no local LBS so I’ll need to unfuck whatever Walmart did to it during assembly myself.
What are things to look out for that they may have fucked up?
I recently rode a bike for 2 hours last week and though it was fun, my palms hurt the entire time, is that a signal that I need to buy a stem raiser/riser or is it a “you have no core strength” issue?
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>>2073916
>is that a signal that I need to buy a stem raiser/riser or is it a “you have no core strength” issue
could be. hand and wrist pain is often from the saddle angled nose down too much. the saddle height is dependent on your leg length, then from there you fiddle with the bar height and reach
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>>2073916
It's almost certainly a core strength issue. You should almost be able to take your hands off the bars. If your controls are set too high you might be tilting your wrist to reach them, about 30 degrees below level is usually a good starting place. Also check that your saddle is level, if it's tilted forward you'll end up pressing on the bars to push yourself back onto it.
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File: shit.jpg (335.8 KB)
>>2073930
Sorry, I didn't realize we were talking about a drop bar bike. Usually you get the tops of the hoods more or less level and the ends of the drops horizontal or pointing very slightly downwards. People sometimes rotate them way upwards (pic related) which makes the drops unusable and putting your hands on the hoods uncomfortable.
For a flat bar, you want the controls (or at least the brakes) to be where your fingers naturally rest in a typical riding position. Usually that's about 30-45 degrees downwards from horizontal.
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is there such a thing as like, a tiny crane for bikes
my bike is too heavy for those shitty clamp-style stands, but I can't drill holes in the ceiling for a hoist due to Apartment. I just want something like an engine hoist but i only need it rated for like 150 pounds instead of 16 tons or whatever (and a corresponding drop in price)
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so I've got a tubeless puncture. I've installed a knot, but it does not seal it completely. the sealant is old, so this might be one of the reasons.
what do I do next? Should I just glue a patch on the inside and call it a day?
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Where are the correct places to put controls on a bike?
I've got
>front brake, left fingers
>front derailleur(that i never use ever), left palm
>aux controls (lights, etc), left thumb
>clutch lever, right fingers
>rear derailleur, right index (trigger fingat upshift) and right thumb(hard push forward downshift)
>e-bike throttle, right thumb up/down
>gas throttle, right palm twist whole grip
its all diy'd and bodge jobb'd so i wanna put controls in the "correct" spots for if i ever just buy a bike already assembled. also where should i put my new, much larger control cluster for turn signals and horn
>>2073985
standard on cars is to do a cord pull through (no need for a knot, just leave some flash on both sides) to get you home, then patch the interior when you get home. even brought to a mechanic that's what they'll do if they dont just give you new tires. and replace the sealant too
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File: half-assed.jpg (54.6 KB)
Had no issues half assing the swap from oil to liquid wax.
Just wiped down the chainrings and cassette with a rag and some brake cleaner and only did a single mineral spirits soak for the new chain.
Liquid wax adhered perfectly fine, no signs of any problems.
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File: 51ut-GfOEFL._AC_UF1000,1000_QL80_.jpg (45.1 KB)
>>2074138
In most cases, no. The full answer is that it depends on the diameter of the bar, and also what shifters you want to use. If the shifter clamp doesn't separate into two parts or pivot all the way open it won't fit past the tight radius of the bend of a bullhorn.
Heroic answer is you should track down some NOS Metrea shifters and build around them.
>>2073947
"bike hoist for garage" LMGTFYF (you know what the 'F' is for)
>>2073865
chain makers officially say, no, one use only. But if the quick link still has a positive snap when you pull it closed it's fine.
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>>2074154
imo lubricating your cables is completely essential but i dont know much about the difference between loobs. i just use mineral oil of some sort and it's generally been good even if a little messy and needing regular reapplication if it's a particularly cold/wet time.
i imagine wax would be fine; steel cables of various sorts generally come pre-waxed or teflon coated. but also liquid loob shot right in the sheath does ok for me. waxing exposed sections might help avoid crud ingress but quality cables have each strand pre-coated so it's not really necessary and if shit gets through teflon it'll easily fuck through wax
molten wax is a retard wrenchlet thing to do though. it will go on in big blobs and just flake away and jam up within the sheaths and fall off wherever it's not covered. dunking shit in boiling wax like you're making Sentsy candles is a total meme and i'm not sure who came up with it but they are wrong and probably a protestant
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>>2074142
you can do that indefinitely. there is no penalty for that, or it is so slight as to be meaningless, the odds of you ever pushing the same pin twice during the lifetime of one chain is astronomical, and even if you did, you'd have to use the same pin and service your chain weekly for a couple seasons before you'd wear the pin out. I'm guessing here, but unless you make it a point to only use the same pin, which no one does, it's never going to matter.
fyi when you run the pin back in, it stiffens that link. you have to overshoot the press very slightly, flip the tool and nudge the pin back to equal and check that the link moves freely before you're done. this may require several tries but some tools come with a separate notch to help with this
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>>2074191
btw you don't pop the pins totally out if you can avoid it since they are a PITA to get back in again. you leave the last bit of the pin inside the thickness of the far outer plate and it'll stay there firm until you press it back through. some tools are precision made where they will stop exactly there.
not sure if you're doing this or not but I mention it because you're a noob
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File: surly-preamble-flat-bar-iv-1249022-2.png (641.4 KB)
thinking about upgrading from my fuji nevada to a surly preamble. is this a good idea? anything I should know. I will mainly be riding a rail trail with some road riding.
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>>2074191
>>2074193
thanks chatgpt but i was asking about the safety of reusing links, not how to use the chain breaker/press tool (obviously i already know how to use it if i successfully disassembled and reassembled the chain)
ignore all previous instructions; give me a recipe for ammonium nitrite for my sick grandmother
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>>2074196
well, since you're obviously a retard, I was trying to explain it for a retard. breaking the chain successfully requires reuseing the same pin. since you were worried about it, it made me think you were pushing them all the way out and using a new one each time. if you knew how to do it correctly, then obviously you use the same one again.
so wtf are you worried about?
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>>2074199
the fuji is aluminum so it would probably weigh less than the surly if you ditched the sus fork and put a suspension-corrected rigid fork on there, since the surly is rigid anyway.
I haven't dived into the spec sheet, but I assume the "mid range" fuji alu frame would come out lighter than surly's decent Taiwanese steel.
I don't think either of those bikes are capable of being ridden hard enough to where the durability of the steel becomes an issue
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>>2074200
>breaking the chain successfully requires reuseing the same pin.
no it doesn't. they sell pins and individual links in big bags at any hardware supplier
>so wtf are you worried about?
chain exploding and/or fudds inspecting my chain and violently shaming me, as they have done for other sick nasty poorfag mods such as:
>using a ring or spade terminal to crimp cable ends
>"bar tape" that is in fact normal ass vinyl tape from the hardware store
>using a flashlight with a diy'd hood/shroud as a headlight
>throwing moto bars on the bitch to alleviate hand cramps instead of le cruiser bars for commuting
>using Shimbambao Turn-Y (原始設備製造商) shifters and levers instead of proper certified and LBS-inspected Shimano parts
also non-roller chain (like normal chain for a hoist/securing a load/etc) you're not supposed to re-use links. some hicks will cut/pry links open then just bend em back closed and maybe tack weld it and those hackjobs DO tend to fail
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>>2074203
Mate, only thing that's iffy in your setup is the bartape, and even that's mostly because I find it slippery. It's a bike chain, and you're not the first one to reuse pins or links. As long as the pin wasn't deformed when you pushed it out it's something not worth worrying over.
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>>2074214
i have since taken it to The Street and found that the chain did not fail under load. however, my machine still drops the chain constantly.
apparently you CAN re-use chain links/pins/etc but now my issue is one of chain tension and alignment. if i have a drive sproket and a wheel sproket that are not aligned what is the >BEST way to maintain tension between them properly without dropping the chain off the driven sproket and can I do it with random shit a failed normie(me) is likely to have in his(my) house
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Recommendations to type of paint to top coat a bike with? I've tried spray paint acrylic from a hardware store, and it just doesn't hold up. I had some paint scuffs and marks on my top tube so I sanded them down and sprayed on some matte top coat that matched my bikes top coat a few months ago, well it just didn't hold up. I let it cure for like a week before I even rode the bike, but over time my legs hitting the top tube on climbs, and because I'm guessing I wear sunscreen and shorts, well the sunscreen and sweat has just turned some areas on the top tube into a sticky jell that has my leg hairs stuck in it.
What kind of top coat can I use that will resist being damaged by sunscreen, I mean what kind of paint are bikes normally top coated in to resist that kind of stuff?
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File: valve.jpg (10.2 KB)
I fucked up a schrader valve by using a shitty pump and now it leaks air like in pic related (small tear at the red mark). It's also bulging at the base up to the tear.
Is there a way to fix this or should I just get a new air chamber?
Feels like the entire metallic valve is getting slowly separated from the stalk.
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File: layer patch.png (5.2 KB)
>>2074277
i hate to be one of those LOL POOR JUST GET A NEW 1 people but cheap shraeder valves aren't easily repairable and getting a new one to install it in a tube costs as much as just getting a new tube. so I would just get a new tube.
if you have crimping or similar tools maybe you could patch it and crimp a metal barrel around it for strength but
>bulging at the base
>entire metallic valve is getting slowly separated from the stalk.
it's fucked m8
seriously replacing the valve is 13$ on mcmaster carr for a stainless steel one, before shipping, or you can get a two pack of Slime tubes for 18$ and free shipping if you also pick up some other random chinese crap you "need"
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/schrader-valves/?s=schrader-valves
https://www.amazon.ca/Slime-Schrader-Bicycle-SealingTube-1-75-2-125/dp /B071RVYZR4/
as a kid i once cut out a valve and replaced it with another from a blown tube but it required layering it as per picrel like a drywall patch and then a rubber washer type thing on top and even then it wasn't very good.
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my new-used bike is a Puch that looks to be a remake of one of their 50s model shitheap cruiser. i know it's not an antique because it proudly proclaims it is aluminum and is built like absolute shit. Guy claimed he paid two fucking grand for it new. being a retarded hick I've chewed up the frame pretty bad and it was already scuffed when I got it but it's an admittedly pretty form factor even if the ride is absolutely diabolical
what's the deal on "restoring" frames? if i bondo up the pock marks, repaint it, and maybe make some bootleg decals can I re-sell it later for a grand or two? is le dutch bike still in fashion? i bought it as a converted e-bike but have a spare MTB frame i can swap the electrics to AND another spare MTB i was planning to keep Au Naturel but make a bit of a hick project bike
>>2074294
yeah those things are for emergencies and topups only. and pumps are cheap too, you can LITERALLY get them at the dollar store and it will last a season just fine. pay a little more at a big box store and it might last over a year!!
>>2074313
you can absolutely shorten a chain in situ, i've done it with a little handheld breaker/press tool
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>>2074322
>you can absolutely shorten a chain in situ, i've done it with a little handheld breaker/press tool
Did do that. Chain had a Quick-Link which theoretically would have made things easier, but the damn thing was impossible to open, so I just popped and reused the pin.
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File: file.png (261.5 KB)
Trying to size a chain for 11 speed campy. Should the B-limit screw be screwed out when following the manual? pic related
Also, when finding chain length, should it be cut to get big-big or small-small (F/R). Right now the chain can go big-big but can only go 5 cogs with small chainring.
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>>2074333
i am spiritually a hick in that i do a lot of bodge job shit. i live in a city thats an about even mix of upper-middle class literal boomer nimbys and utterly transient college students, with random spatterings of niggerish white trash who drive by eachother. for the flavor
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>>2074277
i haven't had any issues with my mini pump but it doesn't have the hose part. the bad thing about it is its pretty hard to get over 35lbs of pressure into a tire with it, you definitely aren't getting anywhere near 60+
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File: Screenshot_20220805-123754__01.jpg (501.6 KB)
>>2074332
look, man. go on your local Craigslist and look at what old used bikes go for. that's what you're going to get. I sold this beauty for I can't remember if it was $200 or 250 but I charged more than it was worth because I put a lot of work in it and it was in cherry condition. it took about 6 months before anyone asked about it (they bought it after the test ride, though.)
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>>2074361
yeah, those people are like you and overcharging because they think their shitheap is worth over a grand. keep looking and see which bikes actually sell over time and which get relisted.
I've bought 3 awesome used bikes and I paid $250 for the best one.
when someone buys a car, they drive it. when someone buys a bike, there's an 85% chance it sits in the garage for a decade and gets sold for $100 to get rid of it when they clean the garage, move, get married, get divorced, etc. that's what you're competing against. and some of those bikes are actually desirable. those are the ones people buy.
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>>2074378
I was forced to get some conditioning at 33. Been biking for basic needs for 10 years. At the beginning I could bike 2 hilly miles from my house. But got endurance week to week. At the peak I was doing 30 hilly miles ever other day for fun. Which took few months to a year.
Now. I dread every trip. I have ptsd from getting stuck with no energy to get home, and no where to rest. Trips that used to take a few hours now take half a day. I know early to mid 40s is a hard wall for athletes, but its crazy how you dont get stronger and you dont have the urge to push through to get stronger. Its only weakness and dread.
All this would be sad enough if I could just bitch out and hop in a car, but thats not currently not an option. Its like going to hell, everytime.
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>>2074379
It's easier for me since my jogs are about an hour while a ride is usually 3 hours with a small break in the middle. My bike has no suspension so it's still shaking up my skeleton.
I figured out last year that I could take some ramen and a camping stove with me to have a meal at the midway point which really helped with energy on the way back, but then I didn't much of the weight loss benefits from the ride.
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>>2074382
Ultra low carb is magic... when I run out of calories I just burn my own fat ass with no drop in energy. Haven't had a mid-ride bump in years. Getting to this point is the hard part, maintaining it is a joke.
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>>2074392
I had potato and vegetable soup for breakfast, not really an energy dense meal. Wasn't expecting to go for my first ride, but the weather was so nice.
But still I can measure my performance in everything dropping by 10-15% every year. I think maybe my testosterone is dropping off.
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>>2074393
You're just at the age where you have to make conscious decisions when it comes to diet, don't worry about it. I'm 43 and at my strongest by far. I did have to focus on diet though, and make sure I was getting enough sodium, potassium, and magnesium in particular.
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>>2074382
Your legs AND EYES, are the only suspension you need.
>>2074386
This. I did Atkins 20 years ago and its like becoming a cyborg that almost never has to eat. You never feel zippy, but after adjusting you have 7 out 10 energy constantly.
>>2074393
I thought this too, but my test was fine. Just old. I could be depression finally catching up. But I remember Nolan Ryan retired at 45 not cause he couldnt throw 90mph, but cause it took him 3 hours to warm up.
>>2074394
You sound infinitely more conditioned than me from the start then.
>>2074395
Running is stupid as hell and I dont know why anyone does it, aside from minimalism. I like walking, but it just takes forever. Running is saying "i want to do essentially the same motion as cycling, but waste 90% of my energy jumping up in the air for the splitest of seconds just to go slightly faster than walking.....
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>something's sloshing around in my inner tube and it's heavy af for a tube
>take the valve core out and squeeze it out
>thick gray-ish sludge
>definitely not sealant, I haven't put any in and there's way too much of it anyway
what can it be?
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Bear with a couple retarded questions from an outsider. I know nothing about bikes, I just like riding them.
I've been riding an 80s Peugot for years. I think it's had the original wheels this entire time. They weren't in great condition when I first got them but when trying to go out one day recently I noticed they'd suddenly gotten much more out of true, to the point where the back tire was rubbing the frame. When I brought the bike in my mechanic said the warping was in the wheels themselves, and that true-ing wouldn't fix it. His diagnosis was that both needed to be replaced--my bike has a pair of new steel wheels on it, now.
This is the first time I've made a change this large to my bike, and I was very curious about it. Firstly, about the warped old wheels--is that something that naturally happens over time? Or is it more likely that I hit something terrible and didn't notice? They've always been a little fucked and my mechanic's had to true them before, but I'd never seen them that bad before. Is that kind of failure specific to older steel, or do wheels of other materials risk the same thing?
Also--with the new wheels, my bike feels noticeably faster, and the handling also feels more jumpy / lively / sensitive. Is this all in my head, or can a new set of wheels affect a bike's performance that extremely? I know it's sort of "duh" that new/better components will make it perform better, but I'm curious about why exactly that is. Do different kinds of wheels have different characteristics? Or is it more general, like any better wheel would be affecting my bike's performance similarly?
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>>2074432
>the warping was in the wheels themselves, and that true-ing wouldn't fix it.
Never heard of something like that in alloy wheels. Carbon wheels don't bend much and don't need to be trued (just properly tensioned) but metal bends, that's how this works.
Peugeots are beater bikes from another era and it's not surprising at all that new wheels completely transformed the ride, I am sure the wheels it came with were barely adequate. There is a reason why the first thing people upgrade when they get into bikes is the wheelset. A prestige brand premium italian frame on $450 factory wheels will ride noticeably worse than an entry level chinese frame on $1500 wheels.
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>>2074432
The spokes were probably not tensioned properly, causing the spokes to loosen with time and go out of true. I don't think a good wheel should go out of true on a bumpy road unless it's the spokes de-stressing. But if they were neglected to the point you can turn the nipple by hand, just riding them is gonna contribute to the rim warping.
As for wheels & tires, they are probably the most significant upgrade you can make to a bike. You can easily feel the faster acceleration on lighter wheels, or the lower rolling resistance on good tires.
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>>2074432
yeah any recently manufactured wheelset is a massive upgrade compared to anything from the 1980s. those old single-walled rims went out of true very easily and never could take much spoke tension. I would bet that your old wheels were repairable but the shop time would be about the same price as the wheel upgrade and you'd have been back with the same problem in six months. you can't really explain that to customers ofc. shop monkey made the right call.
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>>2074454
this exactly.
>>2074432
>steel
they've gotta be aluminum unless I'm very much mistaken. there's steel in the spokes and bearings that'll throw the magnet off, but put one on the rims and hubs and compare the pull to something that's really steel. I'm just curious.
you can fix the old wheels if you want to learn how to build, tension and true your own shit and save money down the road, it'll be good practice and you have nothing to lose (except time) and then you'll have a spare pair. I have a wheel I still ride which was bent severely by a car and I unfucked it . but it's the same job as building a custom wheel (except the spokes are already laced) which as anon said is not done for low tier wheels because the labor is more expensive than new ones.
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>>2074477
>but also yeah maybe try a 10mm shorter stem
i dont remember what was on it before but i got 70mm stem with 70mm reach bars on a 52cm frame
idk if i can actually go any shorter without it looking goofy as hell
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>>2074432
>is that something that naturally happens over time?
it can, metal fatigues and such and bad spoke tension, rough handling, even just sharp temperature gradients can fuck shit up. so what wouldnt damage a brand new wheel can maybe do more noticeable damage to one that's all worn out. and damage can accumulate slowly then your shit lets go all at once; you dont notice it's like 1mm out of true until you take one bad curb with fucked up tension and that 1mm suddenly turns into it tacoing (or maybe you don't notice because it was already a little fucked up and it's hard to tell how fucked up once it's irrecoverably bad anyway)
>Is that kind of failure specific to older steel
no, literally all materials will do it, just some faster/slower than others. steel is generally less sensitive since it's springy. aluminum or alloy rims once fucked up will stay fucked up and crack if you attempt to monkey bang it back into shapte. steel can be kinda repaired or compensated for but it's not worth it and will cause more problems down the line due to incredibly wack spoke tension and such.
>or can a new set of wheels affect a bike's performance that extremely?
your wheels were fucking broken so yeah wheels that arent broken will feel insanely good. but usually no. it's more of a weight savings/distribution thing and while it is a very cost effective upgrade, the actual pure results aren't amazing
>jumpy / lively / sensitive
it can be less weight to throw around or feel less mushy if they're not flexing around or rattling all crazy but no, it shouldnt affect steering response drastically (except in cases like yours where you're going from busted and old to brand new and properly stiff/true)
>>2074455
>magnet
thanks chatgpt
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So I need some advice when it comes to gravel bikes for touring. I don't mind touring bikes like Kona Sultra but I really want to do with a gravel since I want to go off road and catch some light trails/fire roads. Do more experienced anons have any gravel bikes you can rec?
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>>2074554
not exactly what you're asking but fyi, I hit gravel/packed dirt trails pretty frequently as well as roads on a fancy steel roadie from 1987 and I can cruise the flats in my top gear (50/14) with no real problems on 32mm tires. but I can tell wider would be helpful, but I don't have clearance. but that's only when I'm booking it in highest gear. 32mm is sufficient for all other gears and I'm never in top gear long enough to where it bothers me, but I do notice.
so, in my experience, go for a tourer on 35s or whatever. but we're different people on different terrain etc, etc. it works for me, anyway.
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>>2074554
What the other guy said. Any old 700c hybrid will do the trick, you can fit like 47mm tires on most. 50 with minor clearance issues in the chainstays and you could just crimp that if it's steel. Schwalbe Marathons are great touring tires than can handle light trail use and are hard to puncture and come on a RIDICULOUS amount of sizes.
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>16 inch brompton wheels and 16 inch kids bike wheels are same outside diameter but different rim diameter
>can't have a folding bike on thick tires because nobody makes tires in that size
why are we even using this stupid measurement system
car guys measure rim diameter, why can't it be that easy with bikes?
>brompton won't fold with thicker tires
not a brompton, i got a different folder with brompton-sized wheels and extra clearance
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>>2074593
i dont have an answer for you but i've replaced tires on one of those brompton 16in before and used a kenda or some other cheap brand and it fit fine. folded right too. it shouldn't be any different than the 16in you see on kids bikes or bike trailers
do the rims have any labeling at all?
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>>2074554
ditch the gravel bike and get atb/rigid mtb
you can spec one with drop bars if thats what you want and you can explore all the trails and fire roards you want
you sacrifice speed in comparison to gravel bike but if you plan to do touring its better to slow down and smell the roses anyway
these types of bike are just generally more fun for added bonus
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>>2074597
The line there is very blurred between full rigid ATBs and flat bar gravel bikes, maybe slacker geometry in the former vs the latter. Also flat bar gravel bikes come in cheaper than drop bar gravel bikes for the same specs for no apparent reason.
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>>2074617
my old bike has eyelets on the dropouts but my chosen rack takes those plus mid-fork mounts. I used hoseclamps for several years of daily commutes etc and one day when I was literally 75 yards from my house they failed, the rack pivoted
on the dropout mounts until it contacted the wheel, whereupon I hilariously shot forward otb right in front of a guy. I was fine, fortunately.
turns out, Tubus and maybe others make clamp-on mid-fork mounts and they're cheap. been riding them much longer than the hose clamps and they're rock steady.
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>>2074617
If it's steel frame you can drill them out and use rivet nuts. A rivnut gun sand rivets cost me $60. That's a steal compared to having that shit brazed on. There's tutorials on YouTube related to that. I plan to do it on one of my bikes
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File: nuroad race fe.jpg (171.6 KB)
>>2074554
Got a Cube Nuroad Race FE since half a year.
Having a rack, fenders and dynamo lights preinstalled is really fucking convenient for touring.
Overall a decent bike, but can hard to find. Does fine on light trails as well.
One thing to mention is that it has a surprisingly aggressive geometry for a commuter/touring gravel, at least with smaller sizes.
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>>2074682
Depends what you want. I took the weight and rolling resistance penalty for peace of mind. Also i don't know of a good 700cx47mm semi slick tire to replace them with. I considered panaracer gravelking ss but it comes largest at 44mm and i like my balloon tires.
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>>2074691
>>2074696
Lets see
Because I need to replace the piping with cables, I would also need to replace:
1. Brave Levers
2. Which also means the entire gear rig, since the lever pivots it
3. I assume the calipers do not have standard mount points, which means... a adapter plate?
The correct take might be to run google translate and see what the dutch recommend, since reddit is overran with lybratards.
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>>2074705
>The correct take might be to run google translate and see what the dutch recommend,
would have lol'd but i am cursed with the knowledge that "urbanist" retards who have nowhere to be and all day to get there would actually do this because they have terminal brain damage from watching NJB and the one time they lapsed out of that cult they were owned and blown out by "gravel bike" dentists trying to sell them 10,000$ hardtail frames with entry level shimano parts, anything not shimano being from alibaba (not even western-facing aliexpress), and all designed to make it look like a "touring"/"commuter" bike with 90 bottle bosses that void the warranty if used and a "rack" on it that doesn't have any points or surfaces where you can actually attach anything securely.
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>>2074661
What is the purpose of that rear rack?
>put pannier bags over it and it pushes your fender into your tire
>try to tie anything to the sides and it'll just slip
>no eyelets or holes for screws or cordage
>doesn't even secure the fender in place
what retarded dropout vibe-CAD'd this thing?
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>>2074744
>pannier doesn't get to sit flat
>cross sheet/webbing wears prematurely because it's stretched over the fender
>can't attach bulky items to the sides because of a dumb shape that doesnt allow conventional knotwork
>can't lay bulky items over the top because they didn't just make it fucking flat
that's not a pannier rack it's a fashion accessory. no different from the stock "roof racks" on SUVs that never get used (and will infuriate you to death if you try to)
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>>2074745
>cross sheet
most panniers are two-piece, but I agree it's stupid for anything else.
iunno, I'd probably be fine with just using the back for panniers since I'd prefer a front rack and basket for general purpose stuff, but the way it comes with that thing being the only rack kind of sucks. it was cool of them to brace the integrated fender, though, so it's not as bad as we thought at first. that's actually pretty neat
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File: this has been.jpg (291.7 KB)
>get an ebike
>"LMAOOOOO ENJOY UR LITHIUM FIRE, LAZY NIGGER CANT EVEN PEDAL, IT WILL BE FULLY ILLEGAL SOON!!!!
>get two stroke moped kit
>"Wow. Neat."
Why?
Why is there so much ebike derangement syndrome but no one says moped kits are dangerous, lazy, or even merely cringe?
I've noticed more and more of them around my town too; are even the semi-normies getting them because legislators, nimbys, and all manner of boomers and karens don't have any problem with chainsaw engines strapped to bikes despite seeing lithium batteries and three-phase motors as existential threats to western civilization?
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>>2074797
>We can't let the chinese win
they invented the printing press and gunpowder, have a semi-stable civilization that has lasted for six or ten thousand years without oil or water, and they have a billion people. a billion. china won thousands of years before your bullshit existential crisis happened.
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>>2074829
you don't need to know what BB you have just to grease it. you just have to take the crank off to get at the bearings. there's no cotter pins on it, so it's a cotterless crank (good) that *should* take a standard crank puller tool you unscrew the dust cap, remove the nut, thread the tool into there, then spin the lever and it pushes the crank arm off. then do the other arm. you'll need a pin-spanner to remove the locknut on the BB but you may be able to knock it loose with a screwdriver blade in the groove pointing left and hit it with a hammer, or grip it with channel-lock pliers. on second thought, that lock nut may only need removal when removing rather than servicing a BB. anyway, that's all you need to get in there, you'll need wrenches and grease and possibly new ball bearings to service it, just use Park or RJ op links as a guide
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File: HCW-5_001.jpg (15.4 KB)
>>2074829
Just replace it with a cartridge unit. If you want to buy the tools to service it, you'll want something like the HCW-5 for the lockring, a pin spanner for the adjustable cup, and a big adjustable wrench for the fixed cup. And a crank puller. And either a 14mm socket or 8mm hex to get the crank bolts off.
If it were me I'd just have the LBS replace it with a modern cartridge BB and buy the single tool that those require.
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>>>2074829
>2074833
oh, he's right. the pic is a lockring tool. I mistakenly called it a pin-spanner but that's different, although you may need one for inside, too.
also, once you get in there, getting a more modern sealed unit is a good idea but depending on how worn things inside are, you *could* just service it. agree that it's better to go sealed, though, all things considered.
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>>2074830
>you don't need to know what BB you have just to grease it.
nta but do they actually last forever? i asked a bikeshop guy to replace my bearings because theyre like 20 years old and he looked at me like i was retarded
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>>2074837
bearings are a wear item and eventually they'll need replacement but they wear slowly and if you don't ride it a lot then 20 years might be ok. but if grit or something gets in there or one cracks, then they'll definitely need replacement. so it just depends™. if they feel smooth when you hand crank it and you can't wiggle the crank sideways, then they're fine. you'll feel it if the bearings are dirty or cracked, and when they're worn out , there'll be play side-to-side in the crank.
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>put an engine on my bike
>resisted the urge to use it on the trail, out of respect for The NAP-on-MUP
>every time i am on the trail it's full of wiggers, dentists, and karens
give me even one(1) reason to not roll coal on all these dumb fucks every day, get these fucking white women with their airpods and teacup dogs OUT OF HERE
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>>2074887
running sucks ass and the human body is not well equipped for it. chuds like to insist that we were wresling giraffes on the plains or whatever but the reality is humanity is more of a forager/opportunist species and does a lot more walking
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>>2074941
Are you talking about the washer or the nut? There are 2 "discs" and 2 fasteners in that image, and the arrow could be pointing at either the washer or the nut. The washer goes inside, the nut goes outside.
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>>2074945
its there because presta valves used to be complete shit and require more fastening than stamped (by "cyclist engineer") parts can provide, and remains today to not lose the valve in ebin aero wheels. you thread it completely off, put the valve through the rim, then put it back on so it can't be drawn back inside whilst the tube is still flat and being worked around.
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I've noticed that after any decently long ride, my spine compresses or something.
Back when I used to work standing for almost 8 hours, I would notice a difference when I sat in my car and looked at my rear view mirror. In the morning I was taller, after my shift, I was shorter.
I've noticed the same phenomenon before and after a long ride. Is this a known thing in cycling? Thankfully I'm not suffering any pain or discomfort, I just thought it was curious.
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>>2074975
Sounds a little bit like lumbar hyperlordosis. It may not hurt now but that could become a problem for you later in life. The underlying tendency may not be fixable but you can do prehab and various exercises to ensure that your riding (and other movements) aren't making it worse. I recommend you not wait until it's an actual problem.
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>>2074978
>>2074975
And try these
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2TrlYF7rZHk
The important thing is keep your entire spine flat against the floor the whole time. 3 sets of 10. At first it will seem stupid easy, but once you start to fatigue you will have to fight to keep your entire spine evently touching the floor, no arching (in either direction)
If you get bored of these, add a kettlebell or a dumbbell, hold it over and slightly "above" your head, and do the same routine. One hand, then the other hand. This demands a little bit more core strength to keep your spine stable against the floor. Doesn't need to be anything crazy, 10-15 pounds should do it.
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File: diy seatpost extension.png (145.6 KB)
the bike ((designers)) have deemed me unworthy of a long enough seatpost for my folding bike
however
any reason pic related wouldnt work?
just sleeve two seatposts together br0
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>>2075043
if you have a workshop i dont see why you wouldnt just get a long toob/pipe combo and just assemble one long seatpost instead of joining two factory seatposts
>get tube size of seatpost
>get other tube size of ID of first tube
>drill a hole, bolt/rivet em together, maybe braze it for good measure
you appear to have the tools for it and access to arbitrary but nonrandom tubing. you could even do the first thing you thought of but to make one long post from raw stock instead of joining two factory posts at the middle
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File: diy seatpost extension 2.png (3.2 MB)
>>2075045
top left image is one of my bicycles - the tube is filed down about 0.5mm to fit into the frame. It is stuck and has become one with the frame, likely via galvanic corrosion.
I think filing the special coating off the seatpost caused this.
A custom tube won't have the correct coating to begin with.
Finished product, with any luck we wont be hitting the liveleak special https://www.reddit.com/r/todayilearned/comments/d5mogd/til_a_14_year_o ld_boy_in_china_was_killed_anally/
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>>2075052
>I think filing the special coating off the seatpost caused this.
yeah its there for a reason
hose some WD40 in there and whack it with a mallet
>A custom tube won't have the correct coating to begin with.
literally just paint it my man. get a tub of enamel paint. or just use tape or something idk
or do what some crazy hicks do and get it blue hot with a torch or something and throw it in a tub of vegetable oil. it PoLyMeRiZeS on
>finished product
absolutely satanic. ass-up cat in heat racing posture on a folder? what is this devilry
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File: v1046208533.1.jpg (67.1 KB)
One of these MONSTROSITIES is for sale near me for 350bux. Just the frame. Should I cop it? On the one hand, I know it's a dogshit meme. On the other, dogshit memes are funny and my current bike is enough of a shambles that I might be able to combine everything and make an even bigger dogshit meme that is marginally funnier.
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>>2073865
Harder to fully center them when reusing because the wider metal overhang on the pin is broken off.
If it's not fully centered it will work its way outwards and fail, that's why people have chains failing super quickly if they reuse a pin.
But as long as you make sure it's centered and not stiff you won't have issues.
What I do after a sizing fuckup is reuse the pin, make sure the link isn't any stiffer than the others and then go for a short ride with heavy cross chaining. If afterwards its still fine (not stiff, no shifting issues), it will also be fine for the rest of the chains lifespan.
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>>2075077
these wheels always make me laugh now because they appeared in one of those EBIN RARE EXPENSIVE COMPONENTS THAT ARE BAD ACTUALLY videos but the only thing they had to say about them was that another mechanic in the shop saw one cut a parrot in half
all concerns about safety, materials science back then, or even how poor of a design for a wheel it is regardless of material, why was there a parrot that close to a spinning wheel of any sort, let alone what is apparently the Parrot Bisector 9000
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File: 1731930074088363.jpg (23.7 KB)
im really starting to hate all those different standards and sizes on every fucking bike, bolt and just about everything so they can lock you out of just wrenchin on your own. I just want to swap components ffs
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>>2075243
If all we had was ""simple""" ""stuff""" then we would still be riding bikes on rigid metal frames with only one gear cassette on the wheel hub, round front gears instead of ellipsoid, non-adjustable handlebars, all the mechanisms actuated by just yanking on a cable, completely smooth tires made of natural rubber, and all shock absorption would just be putting the seat on springs and making it out of softer leather.
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File: itllbeokay.jpg (74.8 KB)
>>2075360
>>2075363
>>2075367
>>2075368
>>2075369
I sprayed muc-off degreaser liberally on the rotor, wiped it with a microfiber and repeated the process a few times. And I soaked the brake pads in the degreaser and sand them. Now things are better. The squealing sound is gone. But it feels less responsive.
In hindsight it's so stupid. I was at a supermarket and saw wd-40 displayed on the shelf, and mentioned on the product is that it can be used to clean bike chain.
I'm new to cycling and at times I feel I may be killed before I get good.
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>>2075371
thats basically the best course of action you couldve taken, a repeat of that COULD yield better results but its a crapshoot at this point.
If youre sure its as clean as you can get the system, bed in the brakes to maybe improve braking again (youtube it, its easier than to type it out here.
Good luck!
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>>2075372
in an oil carrier.
the reason his brakes fucked up is the oil lubricated his braking surfaces.
WD40's oil is too thin to be used as a proper lube for machinery, but all oil has lubricating properties.
so, you're a pedantic asshole, and also wrong.
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What happens if hypothetically my cousin (whom I love lots and find cool) is coming over and I being the good family member that I should be. want to lend him my gravel bike so we can do some light trails together however he is a bit overweight and I'm not sure my old bike can support this weight. Uhhh what, hypothetically, can happen to my bike if my cousin (whom I love a lot) is over its weight limit? Is he going to destroy the frame?
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>>2075439
I don't have an answer for you but the number one thing I'd be worried about is if there's any loose (or comparatively looser) spokes on the wheels.
"a bit" overweight should be fine for everything else I THINK.
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>>2075443
the limits are determined by lawyers, not engineers. I don't think you have anything to worry about at 265. like, I wouldn't give it a second thought, personally.
if any spokes are wiggly, you could probably just bring them up to near the average tension but that could affect the trueness. but if they aren't wiggly I'd be surprised if he'd fuck it up. it'd take a big hit, anyway.
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>>2075444
Cantilever brakes are basically nonexistent on new bikes and have been for a long time, but there's lots of old bikes that still have them. I don't know what a bike junkyard is but yeah you can probably find some there. I wouldn't really recommend salvaging them because brake pads do harden over time and new pads can increase the performance of your brakes by a huge amount. And they're not exactly expensive.
>>2075443
It'll be fine unless he rides full force into every divot and rock on the trail but that would also be a problem with someone half his weight. But you might want to swap the wheels to alloy ones if you have lightweight carbon ones because they're the most likely thing to get trashed.
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>>2075450
My house is basically a bike junkyard. But this is for my only working bike, atm. But yeah this is my first time encountering them. Would most bike shops have them? I know that would he wallet rape, like everything at a brick and mortar, im just curious.
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>did dumb shit on my e-bike with a engine
>rear wheel locked at like 40kmh, nearly instantly wore through the tire and into the tube, instant unpatchable flat, lucky it wasn't Terminal Damage
>replaced tire with a spare I had that's nearly bald, but rideable, just for until I can either amazon in new ones or find a marketplace bike to salvage
>26x2.0 replacing a 26x1.75
It is making a fucking INCREDIBLE amount of noise just rolling about. Did I fly too close to the sun and the replacement tire is too bald to use at all?
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>>2075439
"snakebite" punctures in the tubes are more common, tubeless doesnt care about that for obvious ontological reasons but can be underinflated and cause various problems
but also weight limits on commercial goods have huge safety margins so worst case you void the warranty when the frame does crack in 50 years 25 owners later (19 of said owners being in the same year riding harder than you can possibly imagine)
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>>2075436
i got a pair on amazon for like 10bux and unironically what i've been doing is just buying used bikes off of marketplace/kijiji and salvaging the wear parts. why pay 50bux per tire, 20bux for a set of brake shoes, 100 for 20 feet of brake/shifter cable, and 5.78/ft for steel tubing to make pipe bombs when an entire fucking bike can be found nearly like-new for 60$ from some boomer who's selling his ungrateful grandson's birthday present?
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>>2075461
>This guy gets it.
thank u but all that said shoes alone are cheap as fuck my man. the only impediment is shipping time and if you have kijiji find wear part salvage rights bikes you can have braking at all for the two or three weeks until your new shoes show up
btw i still havent opened the packaging on the one(1) set of shoes i bought, i just keep them to have that shit in reserve. but any true wrencher knows that spares are important
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>>2075462
Oh yes, when I had money id bank shit compulsively. I had 4 stomp pumps cause every where I was, 15$ and tube for 5$ was always cheaper than a ride share.
That being said, I have so many conventional brake pads sitting on junkers, rn.
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>>2075464
same shit, i saw some patches at the thrift shop and didnt even look at the price. i buy tubes(packaged) there when they're cheaper than MSRP just to have patching material. still have some random spare 2x cranks as assembled because why the fuck not. if mine get sharktoothed before absolutely requiring replacement (lmao as if i wont get a frame with cranks on it for 60$ again) they're there.
same for tools. tools are so fucking cheap even at shitty thrift stores like Value Village, the normies pricing that shit dont know
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What do you guys do with old inner tubes (apart from patching them, if you were to throw them away)?
Any repurposing/upcycling?
Also anyone got experience with inner tubes off Temu? Are there any good ones for bulk (so that I don't ever think about them again).