Thread #28907306
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ITT: We post our retarded questions for other retards to answer
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>>28907321
Mostly lease bait, rentals and bank-owned vehicles until they're about 20 yrs old and then they're just traded around between brown people.
They're basically the Buick of europe. No real reason to exist anymore except some people remember the distant past when they were the second best of the available options (Mercedes used to be the pinnacle).
Think about it.... have you ever looked at bmw owner and thought "wow" ?
If so, you really need to aim higher.
If not, then you already know all the reasons why.. and thats why you dont buy a bmw.
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>>28907306
>Retarded Car Thread
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Does anyone know what the car behind the p68 is?
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How much money should I save up to paint a car a gloss black
Full sized sedan from the 90s, so It's a real full sized sedan not the fake mid sized ones claiming to be full sized
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>>28907777
Last time I got a quote on painting my 90s F150 the guy said $18k. $5k if I prep completely and trailer it in so he only has to shoot paint and clear coat. But maybe a collision center would be better on price. MACO is pretty cheap.
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>>28907779
>18k
That's crazy high holy smokes
>5k if I do all the work
Seems more reasonable but still a bit absurd considering you're just aiming a gun and paying the paint.
I've heard horror stories about maco so I'd rather not.
It can't be nearly TWENTY THOUSAND DOLLARS that's gotta be a meme
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>>28907779
MAACO is fucking $2500++ these days, IF you do the prep yourself
The $800 "deal" from them is a single stage job, no clearcoat.
>>28907777
Put $300 into tools and a good respirator with organic vapor cartridges and like four hundred into paint and a 2k clearcoat and do it yourself. Otherwise you're paying more than the car is worth.
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I bought one of those R134a recharge cans to do a quick and dirty A/C job (planning a more complete overhaul later), but the fitting on the can doesn't work with the fitting on the car. What do?
I know the car was converted to R134a, so presumably I just need an adapter?
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>>28907967
Yeah any auto parts store should still have R12 to R134a port adapters. Unless you know it already has had the R12 mineral oil flushed out of the system and PAG oil added in its place, they also don't mix and can damage the system if too much is left in. Depending on the car, you might also want to change the orifice tube/expansion valve and low/high pressure cutoff switches for ones meant for R134a for the best cooling performance. The hole in the orifice tube/expansion valve needs to be larger to match the larger R134a molecule, and the pressures the cutoff switches should cut off at are different. The low side can go to a lower pressure with R134a (colder, before it cuts off) and the high side might cut off too soon at too low of a pressure. Make sure you also pull vacuum on the system for at least an hour to make sure all the moisture inside boils off. Nobody ever did any of that shit for their retrofits, and complained that R134a sucks when they really just half-assed it. My Camaro that originally had R12 blows 35° F air out of the vents in the summer.
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>>28907996
i reckon it'd be colder still if you regassed with HC-12a/duracool
plus you don't need to change expansion valves or any hardware when you use it, not even the oil, it's compatible with both mineral and pag oil
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>>28907306
How can i tell if my motor is seized? 78 super beetle engine cut out while driving and coasted to a stop now no start no run. Starter relay clicks nothing else. Wrench on the pulley won't budge in either direction. If i put it in third and push it will roll. The motor is supposed to be easy to pull on these but would a wrenchlet like me even be able to rebuild it? Most I've done is breaks and valve cover gaskets and serpentine belts simple stuff like that i don't have an engine stand or anything.
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>>28908228
A motor that size should spin over REALLY easily. If it's loose enough to move, when you push the car, it isn't technically frozen, but odd are it's got some hefty damage, like scored cylinders. You could literally lift that thing out, yourself, but be prepared to have some machine-work done to it.
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I'm looking at buying an EV and I noticed there are a bunch of 2018 Chevy Bolts. Why are there so many from this specific year for sale?
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If you could have any meme car, what would you choose?
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retard here. so i needed to replace my oil dipstick tube because it broke and to do so i have to take off my intake manifold. i ddcided to do a throttle body clean as well since i've literally never done this (it was pretty dirty too). once i finish, i start the engine and it is ROUGH. i realized i forgot to reconnect a tube that goes into the house thats behind the filter and in front of the throttle body. it was enough that it caused the check engine light to come on. i obvious reconnected it, the problem is its still rough rough or wont even start AND the brakes are 'hard' as in the pedal barely presses down and when it does it barely brakes (i dont feel comfortable even driving it down the street). any idea whats causing this? i know i can do the intake manifold properly because i changed the gasket a few months ago and it went fine. im probably going to end up re doing everything anyways but im lost as to the brake issue.
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Why did I wake up drunk at 1am, /o/? Did I have dinner?
>>28909530
Slow down there, buddy.
Forgetting a vacuum hose is a common mistake and causes rough idle as you described, and it's usually the PCV return that people forget but it appears you already found that.
What all needed disconnecting? What kind of car is it (at least engine)? Is it something old and simple?
What confuses me is how this would affect your brakes at all.
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>>28909539
its an 06 corolla (im the guy from the last thread). so i disconnected the housing from the air box and throttle body and the throttle body from the intake gasket manifold. plus a few hoses (enough to take the manifold off and set it aside). i cleaned the throttle body while it was completely disconnected and changed the dipstick tube. after that i reattached
the manifold and worked my way back to the air box but i guess i forgot the pic return hose. so after i start it, it runs really rough and my CE light comes on. i shut off the engine and look under the bay and notice the hose is disconnected and reconnect it. problem solved right? well now it runs even worse and the brakes feel like they don't do anything (very little movement in the pedal and very little braking done). so i disconnected the battery to reset the ECU to see if that did any thing (it didn't). i found this but i'm not sure it's the same thing as my issue
https://www.justanswer.com/dodge/cxyd3-cleaned-throttle-body-issues.ht ml
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>>28909551
I'm inclined to think it's a vacuum problem.
Let me give you my advice: get a shop / workshop manual for your car ('06 corolla can probably be found easily online for free) and check the diagrams. Go over every hose you disconnected and make sure it's all back together right.
As far as your throttle body cleaning? I've never done that, maybe it messed with a sensor somewhere (tps) idk.
I'm just really confused why your brakes would be different after replacing a dipstick. There's gotta be more to the story.
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>>28909554
for FUCKS sake. i forgot another tube
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=L7Hh8T2HI8w&t=310s&pp=ygUaMDYgY29yb2xsYS BpbnRha2UgbWFuaWZvbGQ%3D
the one hiding behind the throttle body at 5:01. engine starts and runs fine, brakes are back so it was probably a sensor getting tripped. told you i was a retard.
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>>28909577
I'm just glad you figured it out without paying someone $800 for the favor.
Congrats, cheers!
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>>28909530
>>28909551
>>28909577
Glad you were able to fix it!
I was about to say it looks like your brake booster hose was disconnected. That rubber hose you reconnected probably leads back to the large round metal drum on the firewall behind your brake master cylinder. That thing is the brake booster. Inside that drum is a large rubber diaphragm, and when the engine is running, the engine acts like a giant vacuum that pulls the air out of there (through that hose you reconnected) and makes it easy for the brake master cylinder (which is coupled to that diaphragm mechanism) to move back and forth. It literally 'boosts the brakes' when the engines running. That's why your brakes felt really hard to press even though the engine was running, in fact if you press down the brakes while the engine is off it feels exactly like that.
That hose being disconnected definitely would have been a massive vacuum leak on the engine and caused to it run extremely rough since that airflow from the disconnected hose would be bypassing the mass airflow sensor (should be mounted on the plastic airbox where the air filter is housed). The computer wouldn't be able to account for that unmeasured air being sucked into the engine.
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>>28907306
>05 mustang gt
>Upstream driver's side O2 sensor been on the fritz for a month
>Get around to fixing it last Sunday
>Think it'll be a 15 minute job
>Ford put the sensor at the back of the manifold
>Bolt is completely seized
Alright, if breaker bars, PB blaster and a hammer didn't work, what else could I try to do to remove this bastard this weekend? I'm considering either removing the entire manifold so I can get the proper leverage, or more destructive methods of removal for that sensor but I'm gonna give it another go to his weekend conventionally before resorting to that. I feel that if I could only get the proper room to put my force into it it'll budge but it's a massive hassle for something that should be a 15 minute job.
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I have no idea what to buy. I was wanting a 4runner for the off chance that I go car camping / overlanding which I have never done before. Spending 50k on a used 5th gen because the prices are so inflated seems fucking insane to me. I make like 120k or so, have 110k saved up and live in the PNW. What the fuck do I buy? Love hiking, love flying down forest service roads. ive shit in 3 walmarts this year
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>>28910233
Do you have one of these Oxygen sensor sockets? There are also crow's foot wrenchs that are similar to this.
This might be risky (to the tools) but I think what I would try to do in this situation: put the biggest breaker bar you have on at a 90 degree angle on the socket and have it to where when it's on, the breaker bar point upwards out of the bay, cover the handle end with some towels and then use a sledgehammer to tap the end as if you were driving a nail. Just make sure that the direction you're hammering leads to it turning counter-clockwise and hold the breaker bar to keep some pressure on the end so it doesn't slip out of the socket when you hit the end with the hammer.
Obviousy more PB blaster can't hurt and you could try heat. I know most people would just heat it up by running the engine, but personally I would try to see if I could get a torch on it or a lighter under it for some localized heat, that way there wouldn't be as much risk burning hands/arms while working on it.
Then again, you might have already tried this considering you just said you were using a hammer.
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>>28910337
>90 degree angle on the socket and have it to where when it's on, the breaker bar point upwards out of the bay, cover the handle end with some towels and then use a sledgehammer to tap the end as if you were driving a nail.
Yeah I have that socket, probably the same brand as your example even. I saw some talkative hicks do what your saying in a YouTube video successfully, which is where I got the hammer idea, but I do not own a sledgehammer currently and they definitely had a much bigger breaker than I had on hand, at least a 30 incher I'd reckon. I was working on it with a warmish engine the first time around, but I like where your going with the torch idea so I'll hit it with that for a minute too
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Is there no way out of the hell that is a bike rack that blocks rear visibility and makes me have to disable the parking sensors every time I turn the car on?
Also I think I would flip out if I had a Tesla or something and had to navigate a touchscreen just to turn the parking sensors off.
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Hey lads.
Im the an/o/n from last /sqt/ with the car that starts and dies after few seconds of idle.
Here is the video recording.
https://files.catbox.moe/qu1e5t.mp4
the OBD2 scan gives me one in my opinion relevant error code for Oil pressure sensor(picrel)
The car is 09 quattroporte GTS
Im thinking, could it be an ignition issue?
I can very clearly smell petrol in the exhaust pipes and there are no leaks under the car.
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My 2012 Toyota Prius is a great ride, but it does this one thing that's slightly annoying. It makes this whirring sound from the front when not in motion. What is that and is there anything that can be done about it?
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>>28908913
>>28909405
What should i do next to find the problem? I have the complete idiots guide to keeping your vw alive but i don't think it gets this in depth
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I'm looking to buy this car.
The carfax report says it's damage, but the guy selling it says it's just stolen.
What do you think?
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What I thought were a few small rust bubbles turned into this over the winter. Yes, that is a hole in the rocker. If you guys were installing side skirts would you replace the whole rocker or just patch it (depending on whats under the paint I guess) and cover it with the side skirts?
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If I mix 2qt of 5w30 and 2qt of 10w40 in my sump, will the oil effectively be 7.5w35, or is there something I'm not accounting for? I need to roll bearings to buy some time, assuming they might be a bit looser than ideal but worried about going too heavy for the pump.
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>>28907324
You only say they're reliable because you've truly never known what a reliable car actually is. You're a pajeet who's eaten nothing but disgusting wet slop their entire life so they think that that disgusting poop food is what good food actually is.
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I needed new tires for my shitbox, saw a fresh ad for Eagle F1 Asymmetric 5s in 225/45R17 for 150€ and got them right away, did I do good?
the shitbox should actually run 215/45 tires but 225s are cheaper and WAY more common
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Is this a brakes problem?
* acceleration is poor
* steering wheel "throbs" while coasting
* car decelerates faster than usual when coasting
* at very slow speeds while coasting to a stop, it feels like the car is slowing down in pulses
I'm thinking warped rotor maybe? Would that cause it? It went away after the car sat parked for half an hour, but about 20 minutes into my drive home it started again.
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>>28913526
Probably not, since none of your problems seem to have to do with braking. Is it FWD? Probably a bad CV, maybe wheel bearing.
>>28913223
They're fine, as long as they don't rub. They're close enough that it won't make a difference for your speedo.
>>28912124
You can mix oils, but I would just run the 10w40. There's no such thing as being too heavy for the pump. I can explain how oil weights work but it would take multiple posts. Basically, they used to sort of mean something but with modern synthetics the only real difference is that lower numbers are slightly more efficient and higher numbers are slightly more protecting.
>>28911755
Could be a bad seal, could be a speck of dust in your valve body or an accumulator. Automatic transmissions fucking suck in terms of repairability, I'd just live with it. If you try to get it fixed it's entirely possible to spend thousands and not have it resolved.
>>28911467
That's what it's for.
>>28911400
Grind the paint off and paint over it with POR15 or something. If that hole is the extent of the problem I wouldn't worry, but there's no telling what's under the rest of the bubbles.
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>>28913554
>none of your problems seem to have to do with braking. Is it FWD?
Yes, FWD. The brakes throb at the same rate as the steering wheel when they're pushed.
Thanks, if it's the CV I probably shouldn't drive any more. I guess I'll let the shop diagnose it whenever they have a slot available.
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I >>28913223 got a few pics of the suspension while the car was lifted, is there anything I should replace soon? there's a faint but constant squeaking from both front axles that sometimes stops when braking, its frequency is proportional to wheelspeed.
also the front brakes squeal real bad when braking lightly at low speeds like parking
could be stuck calipers or something?
I drive it pretty hard on bad roads (no potholes but lots of overtaking, patches, and speed bumps)
>>28913554
>They're fine, as long as they don't rub
they don't, 225/40R18 is OEM but on .5J wider rims
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I'm really interested in getting one of the current year GR86s. Do they have common issues that are deal breakers?
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What can I do to sell my car in reasonable price?
I'm asking for $11,000 but willing to lower it to $10,000
It got several fender benders and scratches, but people want to get it for like $8,500.