/CCG/ Classic Car General: Babes and Barges Edition Anonymous
05/08/26(Fri)15:28:03
No.
28939548
[Reply]
►
File: 1957 ford and a babe.jpg (110.3 KB)
>For Classics made from 1979 or older, with few exceptions.
>Everybody has their own taste, but some tastes are wrong. If you aren't sure if your car is classic or not, it's not.
>Your Honda Miata doesn't belong here.
>US, Euro, Jap, or whatever.
>Post your classic, your work on it, your hackery, and get advice.
>Any and all discussion about classics welcome, but may not necessarily generate responses; don't get butthurt.
>Period correct performance > cosmetics.
>Metal > plastic.
>Classic shitbox > modern shitbox.
>JBweld and RTV can fix anything
>If you see rust there is more.
>Rust and bodywork are the most difficult thing to repair.
>Electrical work is difficult until you stop reading forum posts and buy a multi-meter.
>Low oil pressure? Worn mains and rod bearings. Use Lucas and 15W40 until you afford a rebuild.
>Do NOT buy a classic and plan to pay someone to work on it. You need to be able to do 90% or more of the work or you will go broke.
>You will spend twice your budget, unless you have years of experience. If the salty old hands agree, it's true.
>If you can't tune a carb you might literally be retarded
>Nothing is as easy as it seems
previous thread: >>28899085
Showing all 257 replies.
>>
>>
Finished changing the rad hoses and flushing the old stingray today. Gotta say, I hate myself a little. I pulled the lower hose without using the drain pitcock because I saw some little mineral bits when I removed the upper hose. So, I wanted to make sure I had a nice large opening to drain before the proper flush. Had a decent size drain pan but not wide enough for all the fucking capillary runs yanking the tube off. Long story short, I was a moron and forgot Antifreeze is not just Ethyl Glycol but has phosphoric acid in it, so the concrete in my garage now has a lot of new green stains even after mopping.
Good news is all hoses are in, new coolant is in and nothing leaks. I probably should have pulled the surge tank too because it has clay and dust accumulated, but I have to yank the fender well to do that and I'm tired, boss. With the big C4 rad in her, I had to fight and wiggle for every sixteenth to get the hose and clamp on the bottom.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
welp. ended up just hammering the core plug back in because i couldn't get it out. hopefully it doesn't pop out again...hoping that it only did because it wasn't hammered in so the top edge sat just inside the hole, it was just above that
>>
>>
>>
>>28939967
That's the cutoff age for smog in California. All the old hot rod rags are from there so it got spread nationwide as the "standard" to gen x and boomers.
Anything over 25yo is a classic and shouldn't be taxed for registration. Simple as. Imagine wanting to extra every single cent from a guy driving some 95 Corolla that you'd actually lobby the government to change the definition of classic car. That's what boomers are doing rn on their deathbed it's insane.
>>
>>
>>
>>28939967
>Real answer:
Drastic shift in automobile design, engineering and construction.
'74 was was the initial changeover with some platforms continuing to around '79 so it's difficult to set a hard limit.
And no, just because a vehicle is "old" does not make it a classic.
By definition a classic is something that stands out, something unequaled by its peers.
>>
>>
File: Screenshot_20260509_132546_Chrome.jpg (182.6 KB)
>>28940519
>Anything over 25yo is a classic
Age does not a classic make.
Youre talking about vintage.
Classic registration typically has mileage limits. If classic status can be revoked then its nothing more than political fanfare.
>>
I found that my Volvo is running like poo because it's pushing voltage through the EGR control circuit. The ezk actually never grounds it even when it should. It looks like I'm going to have to megasquirt or swap the car sooner than I wanted, the 35 year old computers are not doing well
>>
>>
>>28941210
ezk controls the ground side, multimeter says resistance to ground is too high to measure but 2.5 volts is going through it, i haven't tried depinning it but i just lost the ground control for the fuel pump relay last week and its never trying to control the egr either
>>
>>28941310
ahh right, ok i'm not familiar at all with volvos, i didn't even know what an ezk was. but seems like some sort of control module/computer for them? can you open it up and see if any of the components have gone bad? wondering if it's like the 90s jap ECUs that had bad caps that needed to be replaced eventually.
>>
>>
>>28941363
could post in this thread >>28916995
>classic not plastic
>the shitty american muscle plate
deserved a better owner. plus that dent in the door lol. does appear to be RHD converted though, don't think they ever sold any caddys here, apparently back in the day it was just pontiacs and chevys and even those were considered uber expensive.
>>
>>
anyone ever rodded a radiator before? how do you take apart the tanks and solder them back together? Very new to soldering, the pakistani radiator repair videos I've been watching, I see the worker sometimes dabbing some sort of liquid on to the part right before soldering it, what is it?
>>
>>
File: IMG_20260512_111510994.jpg (2.5 MB)
>>28942850
This. It's flux.
Also, took the old Stingray out today to work since it's off for most people and I don't have to worry about retards chipping it. Looks like the radiator flush and hose change was a success. Everything cools right and fluid levels are getting consistent as the air burps out of the system.
Need to drill out the plenum drain rivets so I can replace them and give her a good hose wash.
>>
>>
Met a dude from a few towns over with a second gen Camaro, gave him a BUNCH of stuff I had for my 79. Dude refuses to not pay me and dropped me a couple hundred bucks even though I kept telling him he could have everything for free. Feels good to know it’s going to another enthusiast
>>
>>
>>
File: Screenshot_20260513-114219.png (3.2 MB)
Completed the first engine break in. Ran for 25minutes between 2k-3k rpm slowly adjusting the idle screw back and forth to vary the rpm. No abnormal noises, nice constant 50psi of oil pressure I'm pretty happy. I have yet to drain the oil and check the filter but im feeling optimistic
>>
>>
>>
File: 1977 Ford Bronco.jpg (67.0 KB)
>>28945613
>wat car?
Knew I'd seen that firewall before. It's a First Gen Bronco. They didn't come with HB. Manual brakes had a master that was mounted normally but power brakes got you the pictured abortion.
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: 5ffe5164fc482e781d043444_NRHF5507.jpg (820.0 KB)
>>28946948
Its actually kind of weird because on paper a '66 Mustang is about a quarter of an inch narrower than a '66 Bronco and it has a normal setup.
But since the Bronco is 4x4 (ALL Bronco are 4x4 BTW. And no, a Bronco II doesnt count. Thats a different nameplate. Its like saying a Chevette is a Chevelle because they share most of the same letters).
The Bronco's BOF architecture and suspension geometry led to a completely different engine bay design. Really gives credit to the old school designers who had to do this on a drafting table with a pen and slide rule before computer aided design existed.
The first gen Bronco interior wasnt cramped by design but by necessity- the seating position had to be shifted inward to make everything fit around the driver.
>>
>>
File: rJmYdqnv-OLksxHzWNAR.jpg (552.3 KB)
>>28947235
Yep.
Bronco was always about offroad.
Shit gets even stranger.
My 1990 Mustang is 2.6" longer than my 1985 Fullsize Bronco. Ive posted pics of them side by side here before.. Shit is so weird.
You'll see the Bronco number fluctuate and be slightly longer than the fox body but thats only due to a rear step bumper option thats about 4 inches deeper than the standard.
Bronco has always been nimble. First gen has a crazy tight turning radius. Even the Fullsize Bronco is a complete surprise.
My '85 has a tighter radius than all hilux models except the standard cab shortbed. So the model with that 6" extra cab like pic (?), ya a 1980-1996 Fullsize Bronco can u-turn on a tighter trail.
Its really weird when youre in a lifted fullsize truck on some tiny residential street and you can just flip it around without touching a curb.
>>
>>28947260
To clarify-
#1)
I mean "all hilux" for U.S. market. I havent cross checked the platform after we lost it so dont know numbers after that.
#2)
Ford continued (surprisingly) with the original spirit of the Bronco and ALL nuBronco are also 4wd, as in all current versions.
>>
>>
>>
>>28947290
Bronco is 27 iirc
Humvee is crazy that it can cross a 3 foot wide ditch at like a 30° angle without a wheel dropping down.
But they're slow ass turds.
>they never finish first in baja but they always finish.
>>
>>
>>
File: IMG_9302.jpg (395.0 KB)
>>28947488
Found a (s)pic
>>
File: sniffaa.jpg (304.4 KB)
>>28939548 (OP) (OP) (OP)
>Classic Car
dumb request here. I'm writing a story over on /lit/ and i nned junk yard pics. maybe someone here might have a pic of classic cars in junk yards? if so, ill grab it and use it in a plot point that is coming up. junk yard in generral if you have it. 2, 3 scenes occur in junk yards.
also i might be back if any one is into writing fiction, as i will need a mechanic in the future scene.
thanks in advance.
here is the story
https://i.4cdn.org/lit/1778735299246355.png" target="_blank">https://i.4cdn.org/lit/1778735299246355.png
faq
https://i.4cdn.org/lit/1778736010312604.png" target="_blank">https://i.4cdn.org/lit/1778736010312604.png
>>
File: FunnyStreetName1.jpg (594.9 KB)
>>28939548 (OP) (OP) (OP) (OP)
>Classic Car
dumb request here. I'm writing a story over on /lit/ and i nned junk yard pics. maybe someone here might have a pic of classic cars in junk yards? if so, ill grab it and use it in a plot point that is coming up. junk yard in generral if you have it. 2, 3 scenes occur in junk yards.
also i might be back if any one is into writing fiction, as i will need a mechanic in the future scene.
thanks in advance.
here is the story
https://i.4cdn.org/lit/1778735299246355.png" target="_blank">https://i.4cdn.org/lit/1778735299246355.png (embed)
faq
https://i.4cdn.org/lit/1778736010312604.png" target="_blank">https://i.4cdn.org/lit/1778736010312604.png (embed)
main thread.
>>>/lit/25248798
>>
File: funnnnnnnnyyy.png (1.3 MB)
>>28939548
>Classic Car
dumb request here. I'm writing a story over on /lit/ and i nned junk yard pics. maybe someone here might have a pic of classic cars in junk yards? if so, ill grab it and use it in a plot point that is coming up. junk yard in generral if you have it. 2, 3 scenes occur in junk yards.
also i might be back if any one is into writing fiction, as i will need a mechanic in the future scene.
thanks in advance.
here is the story
https://i.4cdn.org/lit/1778735299246355.png" target="_blank">https://i.4cdn.org/lit/1778735299246355.png (embed)
faq
https://i.4cdn.org/lit/1778736010312604.png" target="_blank">https://i.4cdn.org/lit/1778736010312604.png (embed)
main.
>>>/lit/25248798
>>
>>
>>
>>28944308
Great looking paint/color on that C3. I am helping my father with his '81 C3 that he just bought. My father's C3 looks OK from far away but has a cheap paint job and some mechanical issues. We flushed the coolant, addressed power steering leaks and changed the oil this week and will be using a smoke machine to find vacuum leaks this week (headlights do not pop up, idle is too high). When the car was on two jack stands, which I placed as in the manual (on frame behind front wheels), it seemed like the front clip sagged downward slightly. After 4 days on jack stands, I noticed a 2" long stress crack in the front clip (it already had others, but this one seemed new) above an old repair on one of the fenders. How do you lift and support your C3? Thank you.
>>
>>
File: untitled.jpg (91.2 KB)
designing the biggest garage i can fit on my property while still having some space for fruit trees and a garden. also have a front attached garage for commuter so this will be for classics only. lift will be adjacent to the 26' wall
ceiling will be 13'9"
only change i'm making is making the 10' door 11' towards the outside. anything else i should do?
>>
>>
>>28949745
18' wall makes more sense for the smaller door if youre having the lift a straight shot on the big door.
Think if it as top bay & bottom bay.
Right now you have top bay and 1/2 bay jammed next to main bay.
Where the smaller door is now would be toolbox/work bench area between both bays.
>>
>>28949799
thanks i actually hadn't considered that
will have to look into insulated roller doors
>>28949804
>18' wall makes more sense for the smaller door
not an option, that's the neighbour's property; lane is along the angled section
i'm doing the best with what i have
>>
>>
File: S-9943BLU(1).jpg (41.5 KB)
>>28950589
>>
>>
>>
>>28950936
Dude ive had way worse.
A couple designs you have to either remove the engine or lift it enough to get a 4" gap, drop thae pan, reach inside and drop the oil pump into the pan (blind) then slide out pan.
And ya, installing isthe reverse and really fun.
>>
>>
>>28950948
oh yeah i know those ones too, but it's not usually classics. like the 7.3L ford diesel.
there's kits to just glue on a plastic pan over the rusted out metal ones to stop a leak
>>28950951
what
>>
>>
>>28939967
'80-'81 is the hard cutoff for when cars went from grand and epic to these corporate boxy things. Yeah this really started in the early 1960's but by 1981 it was unavoidable no matter the price point unless you wanted to blow 100 grand '81 equiv. on a kraut kar.
>>
>>
>>
>>28942775
The part that really tends to go is the trans cooler. You can't really solder it shut because it's a high-pressure vessel. You can;t get new ones either because nu-diators are plastic and aluminum.
...so you'd need an expensive recore and a transcooler+mounting but actually the purpose of the rad transcooler is also to WARM the tranny initially and aughgh just store the copper core rad in the attic for whe it's valuable and buy a 200 dollar alum performance rad. As a bonus those never ever ever overheat because they're all built for turbo LS swaps.
>>
>>
>>28951104
>>28951105
you talk like a fag and your shits all retarded
>>
>>28951096
Thank you for the reply. I will continue placing the jacks on the frame rails as the Chilton manual specifies. From what I've seen on forums the frame and birdcage of early 70s C3s and my father's 1980 are quite similar. I kept it on jacks for several days (not a great idea I realize now; car is from Ohio and probably has birdcage rust to some extent) because I was trying to fit in repair time before work, but in future I'll try to to the job in 1 day and not have the car elevated for so long.
>>
>>
>>
>>28939548
I've been eyeing a Datsun 120y for 800 as my first car ever. Is it too much of a stupid choice? Owner states it's in runnng condition and pics show some rusting it the trunk area.
I find it the only reasonable "classic" I can aim to buy as in this turdie shithole no one cares about old cars besides 80s corollas
>>
File: PXL_20260519_034124070.jpg (2.5 MB)
I was driving down the highway and the center cap on the speedo fell off and starting rattling hard. At first I thought it was something really bad from the engine
Was a huge fucking relief
>>
>>
File: B1SynY3uFjL._CLa%7C2140%2C2000%7C71XrKNV6ofL.png%7C0%2C0%2C2140%2C2000%2B0.0%2C0.0%2C2140.0%2C2000.0_AC_UY1000_.jpg (58.9 KB)
don't have access to a welder currently so i'm taking the oil pan to a shop.
first time i've ever had work done by someone else
>>
>>
>>28952649
I'm asking more in the reliability of the model, as my hands on knowledge of car repair consists entirely on changing tires, oil and brakes, while my mechanical knowledge comes from a few too many hours on My Summer Car
Honestly I don't know if it's a good idea for a first project car, or if i should play it more safe with a 90s celica or starlet i've seen at a similar 1k price
>>
>>
>>28952914
Get the one with good parts availability for your country. Nothing is worse than a car you can't find brake parts, for example.
Now, the Datsun 120y (aka B210 in the US) has an 'A' series engine which is reliable. I'm even finding brake parts to rebuild the rear drums and I'm in the US! Amazing. It's also a very simple car to get running from what I've read and seen.
I'm going to guess that you're in the Philippines or nearby from the mention of the Toyota Starlet. Those are pretty neat little cars too and go look at those as well so you can see if you like them.
You also really want to have a bicycle, scooter, bus, something else as an alternative just in case your project car needs parts and isn't running.
tldr; get the one you can find parts for, the one that you like, and the one that won't bankrupt you
>>
dear dudes. where the fuck do i find the magic deals anymore? it's no longer only the delusional boomers who "know what i got", the internet has killed everything and i can't remember the last time i stumbled upon a magic deal that i couldn't pass up.
>>
>>
>>28953570
Friends.
>be at work before shift starts
>dude pulls in in a ranger
>ask coworker about it
>he says "he bought it for his daughter but she wont drive it so its his DD to save on gas now"
>say "damn I wish i had a ranger to just fuck around with".
>coworker says "my dad has one he'll sell for $200"
What.jpg
>is it a 4 banger?
>nope v6
>standard cab, right?
>nope, extra cab
>so its 2wd?
>nope, 4x4
Pretty sure thats verbatim
>ill hit the ATM and follow you home....
Long story short-
>dude wanted to build a nice ranger for his son (coworker), but (coworker) wanted fullsize so multiple rangers in yard to build one super ranger (off this one).
>minor dents
>call flatbed, drag it up on rims because tires are rotted
>get home
>$5 in gas and a new battery
Damn thing fired and idled so smooth that if I posted a video you'd claim it wasnt running.
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: Resized_20210215_181942.jpg (488.9 KB)
>>28954001
Bronco
>>
>>
File: 1059984.jpg (179.2 KB)
got it done.
replaced PS line at the same time. also noticed a broken off bolt at the rear of the pan. ignored that. maybe i'll get to it once I redo all this when i decide to the rear main seal.
take note of the stunning reinforcement the shop did. thats sure to catch on something and rip the whole pan off, so i need to bevel it at least.
i'll ignore that for now, too
>>
>>
>>
is the 71 challenger anon still around? are you able to grab a photo of the radiator mounting holes/bolts relative to the top and bottom tanks? got my eye on an aluminium radiator sold locally, but I think it's for an E body so I want to see if the mounting points were identical across all chrysler platforms back then.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>28961618
either that, or that one time i got under the dash and unplugged them for whatever reason without taking pics of what it looked like.
in any case, the FSM says 'red to rod side' and the left vacuum pot had to have the red side on the pot side instead otherwise the fresh air door would be shut unless the off switch was pushed in (which turns off the blower motor too)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>28962494
i don't think mine even has a diverter in the firewall due to being factory converted to rhd. the fresh air intake is right above the left front kick panel where a relay or fuse block would sit in some cars. i think it leads to the vent cowl below the wiper arms.
i couldn't see any vacuum lines controlling any actuators going there, only ones going to the rear air vents under the rear windscreen. so i suspect that left flap is meant to act as the fresh air door.
in any case, the vacuum pump showed me that routing the hoses any other way would result in it not working as expected.
>>
>>
Wowee. The toyota sealed beam housings arrived and the difference in light pattern/throw is pretty big. it actually throws out the light in a useable pattern, compared to the cheap auto store ones I previously had on them. Definitely worth getting for their price.
>>28962620
o rite
>>
>>28962466
Thanks buddy, it's in real nice shape considering it wasn't babied or carried around as a show car. The guy who owned it lived down a gravel road too so the paint has some little chips here and there, gives it a nice lived in feel
>>
>>
>>
>>28963551
it was a ground up build. the old motor from the previous owner was a 383 with a nice cam and dart iron eagles and this feels like it has double the power with a slightly smaller cam and the CNC 195 AFRs. night and day overall.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>28963630
that sucks. maybe check out promaxx. i remember they had good flow numbers and out of all the ones i was eying (others were brodix, profiler, flotek) i think they're the only brand that have anything for your motor.
>>
>>28963640
looking into them now. looks like they get the same heads as the other companies from chinese foundries then mills them as needed. seems like the owner is a pretty cool guy too, tells people upfront which is nice and people say the cnc jobs are very good for the price.
>>
>>
File: 708362938_1149256990699672_8281645442635961941_n.jpg (132.8 KB)
>>28963696
>>
File: images(2).jpg (14.4 KB)
>>28963696
>>
>>28963696
>>28963698
does it work?
>>
>>
>>28963696
>>28963698
Jesus christ, how would this have even worked? Like, where's the carb gonna go? Is it even carbed? If not, then where's the injector(s)? Jeez.
>>
>>28963908
Considering the hood is actually cut out for it i would guess its a joke and just looks like its doing something for rat rod shows.
The "box intake" has a door on it held closed with wingnuts so theres probably a carb sitting in there that pulls from atmosphere.
The blowers are probably gutted.
>>
>>28963696
>>28963698
Has science gone too far??
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: Moggy Tyres.jpg (335.4 KB)
>checking the engine of my dad's moggy
>notice that the vacuum advance isn't working
>rubber elbow on the unit's pipe turns to dust when I touch it
>unit itself fails vacuum test
>buy a new advance unit and pipe elbow
>decide to do a quick tune up while I'm at it
>reset ignition advance and go to take a look at the carb
>fuel hoses perishing
>i_sense_a_pattern_emerging.jpg
>grab some new fuel hose and replace it
>tune up carb
>decide to go and check other rubber items, just in case
>bonnet pads perished
>suspension bushes perished
>left side suspension bump stop perished
>right side suspension bump stop has left the chat entirely
>he comments about how the tyres are still pretty good though
>tread is indeed A+, but take a closer anyway
>cracks in many places
>feels pretty stiff, too
>take a look at the date code
>39th week of 1992
GG, I guess, not sure I should've expected any different.
>>
>>
>>28963630
>>28963693
Trickflow makes heads for big Mopars too.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>28966601
the one rubber hose i haven't replaced is the one leading from the fuel tank tube to the fuel pump tube, and that's mainly because for some godforsaken reason, chrysler decided to have the fuel pump-side barb *inside* the frame rail, and i bet you there's a hose clamp there inside that frame rail. so i'm just gonna leave it the fuck alone since it doesn't move at all and thus isn't susceptible to falling apart due to vibration (yet).
>>
>>28967600
>chrysler decided to have the fuel pump-side barb *inside* the frame rail, and i bet you there's a hose clamp there inside that frame rail.
If anything I think Chrysler was just too ahead of their time, 'cause that's some modern engineering tier bullshit right there.
>>
File: 20260601_094852.jpg (526.2 KB)
>>28968129
oops fixed orientation
wow i have never been more glad to have been so confidently incorrect. I was looking at that hose at night so I couldn't really see shit.
Took a look at it again this morning and thank heavens.
I'll just have to be quick so as to not get soaked in fuel.
>>
>>28966622
>>28966680
>>28966822
In the 2000's there was a junkyard turbo craze and it morphed into coming up with the jankiest install you could manage. Judging by the lo-res pic, that tiny turbo from a TurboCoupe or similar, and the clear attempt to make it look even more cobbled together, I'm thinking it's from the latter end of that time.
>>
>>
File: PREDATOR carb.jpg (221.9 KB)
>>28939548
LOOKIT
https://youtu.be/Cis-oM91nhk
>>
>>
>>
>Predator carb
A couple of cars in my area used them in the mid Eighties. None achieved anything of note other than having a Predator carb and disappeared by the 90's. Haven't heard anything else of Predators until today.
>>
>>
>>28969889
I've been seeing them posted in vintage parts groups on niggerbook for the past few years now. Seems theres a little bit of a revival of them. Also, the other brand that looks very similar, but forgot the name.
>>
After using shitty harbor freight disposable work gloves for years I decided to try some "latex examination gloves" I picked up at a wholesale store. I get why people have a fetish for this now lol. So much more comfortable and soft. And more durable too even though they're thinner
>>
File: Screenshot_20260602_152914_Messenger.jpg (871.1 KB)
'64 Buick Skylark, LS swapped.
Give me good reasons not to buy this car. Seller has been trying to sell it for months now, has no A/C and it's the hot season now. I think they're probably ready for a lowball.
Body, motor, interior all seem to be in good shape. Paint needs a good polish and wax job. Swap was half assedtto some extent since they just chopped the A/C condenser and heater core lines, they also didn't deal with the instrument cluster so it's just using the stupid Holley screen for speedo/tach. Needs the A/C and heat situation unfucked which is probably a decent amount of effort and investment, and I'd probably have to get a Dakota Digital or similar instrument cluster to get rid of the stupid touch panel.
What can meaningfully be done to tighten up the suspension and handling on these barges?
>>
>>
>>28971004
Thanks for your contribution faggot.
No, I just enjoy making the most out of my vehicles and if I can make it a little more sure footed and fun to drive on back roads and in the mountains then why wouldn't I?
>>
>>28970985
qa1 has a whole bunch of suspension stuff for them. not familiar with gm stuff but looks like that year skylark was the A body, there's a lot of aftermarket support for them.
borgeson sell a quick ratio steering box as well. iirc it's a 12.7:1 ratio. better road feel and fewer turns lock to lock. should bolt right in but there may be a fitting or two you may need to swap out or something.
>>
>>28939548
has anyone made taillight lenses for their car? Mine still has used good condition lenses available on eBay but it's like $200-300 and I'm curious if anyone's got a good way to make near OEM quality lenses somehow.
>>
>>28971091
see if you have any local plastic injection moulding shops around your city. i got in touch with a bunch of places but went with one that offered to do it for free because he hadnt done my model before. the prototypes turned out really great and i've had them on my car for at least two years now.
>>
>>
>>
File: 20260603_144405.jpg (2.6 MB)
>>28971264
kinda dirty but here it is
>>
>>28970985
>What can meaningfully be done to tighten up the suspension and handling on these barges?
After everything is actual good shape then I'd probably go after alignment initially. Just getting that better for the job can transform a car. Those radials won't want anywhere near as much toe as spec calls for and try to get the caster above 3 degrees (good luck with that!). More caster will improve return-to-center while also making it a bit harder to turn the wheel and making the car feel more stable at speed. It probably had something silly like 1 degree as spec to make turning at low speeds, such as parallel parking, easy. Might find you don't want some super-fast box on it after that. You'll likely find most shops won't want to do custom alignments though.
You might look into a small rear sway bar such as 1/2 inch or something. Unless you want to put a bigger bar in front then you can put a bigger bar in back but they've gotta be balanced to an extent. Though personal preference will probably rule here. The other way to go about this is firmer springs (with matching shock rates!) and little to no sway bar. That rides firmer though, but again personal preference.
It'll be difficult to beat the factory on a street car here but you can learn how to find roll and instant centers and roll inclination and tailor to suit. If you play with ride height you'll definitely need to do this if handling is important to you but most don't care as long as the car throws sparks while driving.
>>
File: maxresdefault.jpg (151.8 KB)
The photos I have of it are over 4MB, but I recently bought a '61 Valiant. Not everyone's style, but it's mine. Amazing condition, so the only work I've had to do on it is minor. Changing oil, coolant, replacing the wires running to the headlights, that kinda thing.
Pic attached is someone else's valiant, just so you don't have to Google the thing for yourself
>>
>>28971396
we had these in aus as well, congrats.
get a headlight relay harness or diy one yourself. if still using the stock ammeter, have the harness run off the alternator output stud. will take a lot of load off the 50+ year old wiring.
>>
>>
>>
File: 20260412_124324.jpg (3.5 MB)
>>28971631
ya
>>
File: lenses.jpg (2.5 MB)
>>28971264
found a better pic of them
>>
>>28971340
>>28971147
looks pretty good. Doesn't it normally cost a lot to do injection molding though? I would assume you were extremely lucky to get it done for free.
>>
>>28972168
these guys can somehow do really small production runs without it being super expensive. It's not cheap, but it's not super expensive either, plus the quality is great.
I did indeed get extremely lucky to get it done for free since he wanted to keep the originals to use as a template, and I was more than happy to give them to him because they were pretty UV damaged.
Shopping around my city, the price depends on the size and shape of the lens, but I'm seeing anywhere between 80 bucks for smol square-ish lenses for blinkers and such, to under 200 for a set of wide rectangular brake lights etc.
>>
>>
File: 20260423_231434.jpg (2.6 MB)
>>28972176
>>28972180
>under 200 for a set
found another guy that was asking 160 bucks *each*...ouch. But it seems to vary wildly on the model, that was a70 year model Fury. For my dodge, the same guy was asking just 90 bucks per brake lens, and 50 per indicator.
It feels exactly the same as OEM. Honestly you can't tell until you get close up and notice the lack of the OEM markings. Some guys will be more than happy to make repros with the OE markings, but my guy I think just wanted to cover his ass from a legal perspective. Light transmission is great. Still visible in daylight, has a nice glow at night that older cars have. Too bad I can't see it when I'm driving because eye-searing tail lights seem to be the trend now, not just headlights.
Pic related is overexposed, it's definitely not pink lol. The plastic is probably better than OE simply because even the cheapest plastic now is still light years ahead of the best plastics of the 60s. My car sits outside all the time and it's held up well.
>>
>>
File: reddit's that way.jpg (23.9 KB)
>>28972420
>fucking
>>
>>
The Ford bronco 302 rebuild saga is still underway. It completed the first break in relatively uneventfully. The second break in however have been plagued with misfires and ultimately abandoned. Something we are dealing with is a galloping under crank. If i disconnect the fuel pump relay it goes to a nice even crank. It doesn't look like any of the injectors are stuck. Retarded the base timing from the optimistic 15° base timing to 8°which kinda helped but it still gallops when cranking. Performed a compression test and it it's 120 across the board. Figured maybe the new heads and high duration cam might have increased the compression to the point the 87 octane is no longer suitable as a fuel. Put in 91 and purged the fuel lines and now the thing seems to idle with an occasional misfire. Im at my wits end with this thing as everything should be working just fine but it stumbles with even a little gas and misfires at idle. Any advice? Im wondering if the distributor magnetic pickup is going out again or i have weak spark. Any thoughts?
>>
>>
>>28972474
Keep in mind that damper rings slip so the timing might not be what you think.
But first try some changes to see what makes a difference. Hit it with some fuel, propane carb cleaner, whatever, and see if that smooths it out. If nothing then give the distributor yank each way to see if that changes anything. (fwiw I'd probably try retarding first). The point is to try and find something that improves the running so that you have an idea where to look for the problem so don't worry too much about exact numbers for this just try to affect the issue and go from there.
Also, do a snap throttle and listen to the sound of the intake. If it's rough and staccato then that can indicate a flat exhaust lobe. Listen to the exhaust at idle. If it's punctuated with a "thwip" sound every once in a while then that can indicate a flat intake lobe.
>>
>>28972505
The headers all seem to be in the same ball park temp wise. I kept reading about the cylinder 7-8 cross fire that is common on early 302s but I can't imagine that it is the the case
>Keep in mind that damper rings slip so the timing might not be what you think.
It is a new one on there and verified 0mark lined up with tdc before putting it together, so that should be fine
>Also, do a snap throttle and listen to the sound of the intake. If it's rough and staccato then that can indicate a flat exhaust lobe. Listen to the exhaust at idle. If it's punctuated with a "thwip" sound every once in a while then that can indicate a flat intake lobe.
If you have any audio examples im interested. Otherwise, everything mechanically sounds good, no ticking or abnormal noises and the compression test came back good so i don't have a reason to suspect anything mechanically wrong. I started it up just now and the cranking gallop is significantly reduced. And the idle is somewhat smooth, i think I'll give it a chance to clear up on the road
>>
>>
>>28972655
Looks like some nips will sell them to US buyers on fleabay:
https://www. ebay .com/itm/166094402266
>>
>>
File: 71vMrLZRbRL.jpg (249.7 KB)
Now I know this is not classic or boomercoded, but I want 7 inch round headlights on my classic car with angel eyes/halo parking lights, preference yellow led halos, BUT without those ugly ass alien eyeball looking led low/hi-beam projectors like these.
Any of you catch my drift and know anything that doesn't break the bank?
>>
>>
File: Screenshot_20260604_103524_Chrome.jpg (357.5 KB)
>>28972956
I got you bro.
Ive posted some my vintage swaps, i probably wont be getting a christmas card from >>28972974
Classic industries has pic related.
>>
File: Screenshot_20260604_103947_Chrome.jpg (388.5 KB)
>>28972988
Also found those on Summit.
The "eyeball" style isnt as noticeable as you think with the blackout backing. And the LED projectors are amazing.
Plus theres stuff like pic available.
>>
File: IMG_20240311_081648 (2).jpg (3.4 MB)
>>28972974
Please don't choke me, I just think they look neat, I'm an ex-bimmer kid. Yes all my E32 BMWs had angel eyes.
>>28972988
Yeah something like this is what I'm looking for. Specifically the original headlight situation on my car was that the parking lights and if memory serves the low beams were on two round 7" aux light housings on the bumper, whereas high beams were in the main headlights.
The car is a 1977 GAZ-24 Volga that was niggered to shit when I got it, so there's no point in trying to return it to factory condition, but I chucked all the angery eye plastic masks and bolt on spoilers into the bin.
>>28972993
And these are absolute fucking cancer, no thank you.
>>
File: It was like she was looking at walking garbage - Meidri.png (515.5 KB)
>>28972956
>>28973008
I wish you the best of luck, but I too would very much like to strangle you.
>>
File: 81110-60P70.jpg (265.6 KB)
>>28972993
are you sure you wouldn't just want a semi-sealed conversion kit that takes H4 bulbs? toyota sells them for dirt cheap, like 20 bucks and it has 2 glass lens housings, a relay harness with relays and fuses...
part number is 81110-60P70
>>
>>28973023
oops meant for >>28973008
>>
>>28973023
The lenses of those are weird and not as conical as the old bulbs of yore. They also protrude out like a bug eye. They do make Cibie replicas that take the H4 bulbs:
https://www. sportsandclassics .com/parts/aston-martin/7-in-cibie-z-beam-replica-1970s-headlamp-conve rsion-h4/
>>
>>
>>28973023
H4's suck.
I dont want "twice as much light as factory!"
I want 10,000 lumen retina burners.
When I waa younger I lived in the big city where every road was well lit.
I had 30% tint on my windshield (entire thing, not just a strip at the top).
I remember one night I was driving around for a good 10 minutes before I realized i didnt have my lights on- I could see just fine.
Now im in the sticks and ill pass 30 suicidal deer on the way home but not a single car. I want to be able to see a mile ahead of me and well into the treeline on the side of the road.
It astounds me that people will embrace modern radial tires, disc brake conversions, radio upgrades for apple carplay, LS swaps and every other creature comfort known to man.
But modern lighting?
>OMG you want to be able to actually SEE whats in front of your vehicle at 60mph?!? You cant do that because it will ruin the A E S T H E T I C S !!!
EVERY "enthusiast" (that actually DRIVES) should be scouring Summit/Temu/Amazon for replacement LED headlights.
>>
File: Ray-Charles-by-Norman-Seef-scaled-e1636730728332.jpg (118.3 KB)
>>28973071
>t.
>>
>>
>>28973071
I dont becauseI value the concept of being courteous more than "hurr durr need moar brighter lights"
I also guarantee I live somewhere more rural and less illuminated than you, and I find the sealed beams in my daily driver more than sufficient. So I can only say, skill issue.
>>
>>28973202
>I value the concept of being courteous
I really don't give a shit because I am bombing low population back roads I don't fuckin give a shit how poorly they behave in traffic.
I didn't build the car to be courteous in traffic.
>>
File: images - 2026-06-04T160528.027.jpg (30.9 KB)
>>28973202
So pic related is cope for lack of skill?
Youre a fucking poser.
>>
>>
>>28973202
If this guy grew up in the country, he'd know this is why there's the extra spotlights on trucks there, so you can have regular lights plus THE POWER OF THE SUN. Also, give him a break. He likely has poor night vision from all the light pollution he grew up around, just like the hearing damage from all the city background noise.
>>
File: hq720 (6).jpg (56.9 KB)
>>28973309
Hahahahahahahaha
Holy shit little kid.
Not sure if summer break or actual mentally retarded individual.
>>
>>
>>
>>28973071
and that's what's great about these semi-sealed conversions - if you want a miniature sun, just make sure it fits a H4 socket.
me personally i find the H4 and H1 halogens great with the toyota/koito housings - they have a really good pattern. i have a quad light setup though, so if the high beams are ever not bright enough i can always just swap them out with aircraft landing lights.
>>
File: Screenshot_20260604_203559_Chrome.jpg (100.4 KB)
>>28973577
>if you want a miniature sun, just make sure it fits a H4 socket.
Hahahahhahahahahhahaha
My surefire flashlight that fits in my pocket is brighter.
>pic related.
Meanwhile my Amazon chinkshit LED 7"rounds are 6,000 lumens, fit in my factory buckets, plug into my factory harness (I can swap in OEM lights by loosening 3 screws).
H4 is dead tech.
>Introduced in 1971 by European lighting manufacturers, the H4 is an iconic, dual-filament halogen bulb. It revolutionized automotive lighting by packing both high and low beams into a single replaceable bulb.
1
9
7
1
>>
>>
>>
>>28973678
>the piaa yellows that've been mentioned here put out 3500 lumens
Odd how thats not what PIAA says....
https://www.piaa.com/store/p/1019-H4-Solar-Yellow-Twin-Pack-Halogen-Bu lbs.aspx
>>
>>
>>28974222
does that even say any lumen rating at all? those don't look like the leh190s that were mentioned.
https://piaa.com.my/detail-product.php?prodno=473
>>
>>
>>
File: image (1).jpg (298.8 KB)
>>28974277
So now we're at "putting LEDs in reflector housings" ?
And whats the purpose here?
To keep the "vintage" look?
Are we running red band bias ply tires also?
AM radio with a single dash speaker?
>>
File: Sweating - Ueno.gif (972.8 KB)
>>28974285
>AM radio with a single dash speaker?
>>
File: gq2329.jpg (286.3 KB)
>>28974285
>bias plys
based
>AM radio
based
>>
>>28974285
>And whats the purpose here?
to address >>28973071 who wanted 10,000 lumen retina burners. For some reason he didn't think brighter bulbs for H4 sockets existed when they do.
>>
>>
File: Screenshot_20260605_183424_Chrome.jpg (177.5 KB)
>>28974637
>3,500 is the same as 10,000....
>>
File: Untitled.png (379.9 KB)
>>28974691
main point was that you can in fact get higher lumen bulbs for H4. all it takes is a simple google search
>>
>>28974717
And youre still using archaic reflector housings. And yes, theyre archaic. They've been in use for over a hundred years. They have horrible light dispersion and half the lumens are wasted, shining on the ground 2 feet in front of the car or 50 feet overhead. Theyre also limited on side to side projection and do a poor job of lighting up the shoulder/treeline (where the suicidal deer lay in wait).
Ill bet you are totally for brake upgrades and 4>5 bolt hub conversions bur youre stuck on this "NO IT HAS TO LOOK LIKE STOCK HEADLIGHTS!!!"
Go be autistic somewhere else, retard.
>>
>>28974828
>They've been in use for over a hundred years
so has the m2 browning. but it just werks.
>Theyre also limited on side to side projection and do a poor job of lighting up the shoulder/treeline (where the suicidal deer lay in wait).
oof. sucks to be you, mine light up the sides pretty well. if there's no one else on the roads the high beams light everything up anyway so it doesn't really matter.
I think they look funny but beyond that I couldn't care less at the end of the day. It's your car after all, not mine. I just asked whether the other guy was interested in semi-sealed housings then you started going on a tirade about how they suck etc. etc. and i'm apparently being autistic lol.
>>
File: pickledsoy.jpg (26.5 KB)
>>28974828
>>
>>
>>
>>28974946
They actually do, because I replaced the cheapo aftermarket ones I had on them with the toyota ones. Used them for lots of night driving on rural roads and it's extremely similar, if not identical, to the semi-sealed headlights of 80s and 90s toyotas. Not bad considering it's still confined to a sealed beam style housing.
>BTW, the M2 has been updated...
If anything, the semi sealed conversions are the A1 upgrade of regular sealed beams.
>>
>>28974964
>it's extremely similar, if not identical, to the semi-sealed headlights of 80s and 90s toyotas
Lol.
Dude.
Youre bragging that your shit matches the dispersion patterns of 40 fucking years ago?!?
Im just wasting my breath here.
>>
>>
File: ecodes_30.jpg (37.7 KB)
>>28974993
have the standards changed?
Come to think of it, are you in the US? Because the DOT pattern cutoffs suck for long distance visibility, it might explain why you feel H4s suck. I've got the ECE cutoffs so the side of the road is lit up a lot more.
>>
>>
File: 1779241897337476.png (393.8 KB)
>>28974993
>>28974946
>>28974828
Go be a sperg somewhere else you halfwit.
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: Screenshot_20260606_171419_Chrome.jpg (241.0 KB)
>>28975578
>>
>>
>>28974828
The more I hear people throw around the word "archaic", I've learned that at this point, it simply means "good"
Archaic car? Reliable and easy to work on
Archaic gun? Durable and good looking
Archaic software? Lighting fast and bloat-free
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>28976104
The S10 T5 has a different input shaft than the V8 version. Theyre not compatible.
And no, you cant just swap the input shaft because the gear ratios are different so a V8 shaft wont mesh with the V6 primary cluster.
You can cut the input shaft and cobble together a "working" setup with the smaller V6 throw-out and disc bolted to a V8 pressure plate but you WILL blow the T5.
Ive done a lot with T5s.
My current is running a tapered bearing, steel retainer, chro-moly 2nd/3rd cluster and carbon fiber synchros.
>>
>>
>>28976233
592hp was peak but I pulled off the supercharger so its probably around 450hp at the crank currently.
Ive been through so many builds on that car over the decades that I baby it now and will probably die of old age before I replace another clutch or brake pads on it.
Its about maxed out and with the supercharger if I actually drove it hard im sure it would blow it.
If I was doing a build today I would 100% go with a T6 and skip the T5 altogether.
>>
>>
>>
>>28977125
>>28962342 didn't see your post at first, how is it?
>>
>>
File: PXL_20260606_025845418~2.jpg (482.6 KB)
>>28977127
Things have been good with mine, just make sure you give it a good inspection, the only real issue with mine has been leaks from the roof during heavy rain. Any questions you can think of I'll try an answer
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: 707915344_4406902212857653_6283078326229998511_n.jpg (90.3 KB)
>>28977180
she's a beauty. would you consider this a good offer?
>Car runs and drives and stops good.
Does not overheat.
Hasnt used any oil.
Paint and body are in good shape.
Interior is probably all original and in decent condition for its age. The drivers seat has some tears and there are cracks in the steering wheel and dash pad.
Lights and signals work.
Headlights do not go up and down.
A/C works but does not blow cold.
Radio doesnt work.
Electric windows work.
I havent tried the wipers yet because it needs new blades.
Front left tire is out of round.
The car has an off-idle stumble that needs to be addressed.
Very clean underneath.
New battery.
New fluids.
Original sales invoice.
9500 $, 100k miles, picrel
>>
This royal blue rustoleum sucks balls, primer and 2 coats on my brand new timing cover I cleaned with acetone and I already scratched some paint off with my fingernail picking it up. Anyone make better Ford Blue paint?
>>
>>
File: F4F0FCE4E0392C64498875D250430467210F162A.sikagard-6060s-alustasuoja-500-ml-60-03214.jpg (58.0 KB)
Are these spray can underbody coatings worth anything?
I welded in a new floor to my shitbox and for the past few weeks I've applied layer after layer of this shit, 2 cans total.
Prior I've been using some thick black sludge underbody coating you apply with a paint brush, but that shit barely lasts a couple of months before it peels off, dunno if I apply it too thick right off the bat or if the surface needs to be like laboratory clean before applying it, but it just doesn't last that long.
The factory coating of my other shitbox is actually so damn good that the coating is still intact 40 years later, the metal inside has vanished completely, so the floor consists only of underbody coating at this point.
I know the old school trick was to put old motor oil into a bug sprayer with was it a touch of diesel fuel or whatever and drive the car down a dusty dirt road, but that doesn't pass EU inspections anymore.