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File: 000012290022.jpg (2.6 MB)
"ProMaster" brand: it was awful. It fell apart when I pulled it from my shirt pocket for this shot: the outer rubber sleeve flopped off the end, making a slinky metallic whizzing sound as it brushed against the inner wire. Don't buy one.
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File: 000012290023.jpg (3.1 MB)
This was one of the longest exposures: 20ish seconds. I had to hold the cable release together. Yeah, it fell to bits but I wasn't going to press the shutter on the camera body, either. I had to hold it together for the remainder of these shots until I could get to the camera store where I bought it and return it. I wasn't gonna go earlier; I wanted to kill two birds with one stone and take my latent film in at the same time.
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File: 000012300007.jpg (3.0 MB)
This one I really felt the missing 4mm. I didn't want to tilt the camera since it would make the pole look like it was tilting and the ground actually went downhill behind me until I would have backed into a hedge anyway.
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File: 000012300010.jpg (2.5 MB)
The cable release slipped from my fingers and fell apart and I didn't get the count I metered so I reshot this one. It really seems like that will be unnecessary in the future, there's barely any difference despite exposing for a further four seconds, so 1) five seconds was more than enough despite the meter recommending nine seconds and 2) reciprocity failure makes the extra time barely any more effective anyway. I do think nearly all of these from all three rolls are overexposed. Film is quite, quite different to digital. I have much to learn.
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File: 000012300012.jpg (2.6 MB)
It almost seems like metering film is unnecessary. I could just wing it and end up with a usable exposure. That might be the characteristic of Ultramax 400 moreso than film in general, though: as I understand it, it was designed to be very forgiving of overexposure.
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For 72 shots you had more than a couple of interesting pics, more than i could
I also dislike 28mm and don't know how to use a 50mm, i always go wider or longer in that normal-ish range.
My question is how are you going to order them for a thematic work.
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>>4511448
>My question is how are you going to order them for a thematic work.
I've already done the theme and order (see the title post), probably more straightforward than one might expect.
>More than I could.
Don't be bashful, I haven't done anything incredibly difficult or skillful. Do you have any threads up or photos in /rpt/?
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I'm not really familiar with urban landscape photography or whether this should even fall into that category. I'd just wish there were subjects rather than just interesting light. A hobo, an opossum, a street sign or a graffitti. As they are, they seem more like a study than a set of photographs
>>4511348
>This lens has a really beautiful lens flare characteristic.
>>4511335
>>4511354
I really liked the flaring and the sun stars in these.
>>4511379
>the homeless man asking if I was photographing ghosts with "spectral lenses."
Welp, there were optical ghosts there somewhere I suppose and the lenses were spectral in one sense....
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>>4511452
>I'd just wish there were subjects rather than just interesting light.
Me too, I would like to have "scenes" going on in these environments but that's considerably more planning and organizing than I am prepared for. Not to say I don't think it would be a good idea to make these into scenes, I just don't have the producer skills.
>As they are, they seem more like a study than a set of photographs
I agree with that, I did set out at one level to simply experience how film reacts to street lighting at night. Still, I did want to make "good" photos, so, noted. I need some actors somehow or some way... a few local photography groups come to mind, as well as Model Mayhem, although I'm hesitant to engage a model for this kind of stuff since I don't really have a plan on what they would do or how much I would pay them, if at all. It makes doing a photography or videography course seem more appealing purely for the networking aspect.
>>4511452
>I really liked the flaring and the sun stars in these.
Me too! I was so surprised to see the way the 50mm flared, it's gorgeous. I wonder if the fungus in the lens adds at all to its character? It's all over the internal elements. The hexagonal flares of the 24mm are great too. The 28mm was really unimpressive by comparison although, on the other hand, it's good to note it does control flares really well. It probably has the cleanest rendering.
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>>4511451
>probably more straightforward than one might expect
Quite so to be fair, as long as you like it yourself
>Do you have any threads up or photos in /rpt/?
No, i am re-learning for fun and haven't taken a pic in a while but i am trying to consume much more photography than before.
>I wonder if the fungus in the lens adds at all to its character?
It works kinda like haze but unpredictable, completely destroys bokeh balls too similar to cracked or separated elements.
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>>4512052
I'm a big fan of Todd Hido (only well-known photographer whose photos I saved to my computer) and I would love to get shots like this in the fog, it's simply hard to predict, short-lived and only happens a few months of the year where I live. It has something to do with air temperature being below dew point and next to no wind.
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File: Untitled.png (485.3 KB)
>>4512073
Todd has a bunch of pics without fog being around, some of the foggy skies are just background city lights at long-exposure shots, i think you can develop that style yourself with not much problem other than academics being hacks and not liking someone doing something that was done before by a more famous person.
Other than that i think you have the rest nailed, not a hard look to identify and clone, no offense, but doing most anything that fulfills your creative needs is worth it.
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>>4512337
First roll: 50mm f/1.4 set at 1.4, usually between 1s and 1/8s-1/30s, depending on the in-camera meter reading.
Second roll: 24mm f/2.8 usually at 2.8 but sometimes f/8, between 1s to 4s for brighter scenes, depending on aperture, darker scenes without highlights 10s+
Third roll: 28mm f/2.8 usually at 2.8 but sometimes f/4 or f/8, shutter speeds anywhere between 1/30s and 60s.
It really depends on the scene and how I meter it. Spot metering and evaluative metering will give different setting suggestions for the same scene. Reciprocity failure is also *supposed* to be a problem for film but Kodak haven't published a chart for Ultramax 400 and I honestly can't say I've seen a difference between the exposures where I took that into account and the ones where I didn't. They explained their purpose for it as a very forgiving film for overexposure to be used in consumer disposable point-and-shoot cameras with flash, so that checks out.
Since your lens only opens to f/4 you should use bulb mode. That's what I used for all the shots 1s+, and I had a cable release for that. f/4 isn't going to screw you over in my opinion, just prepare for it. Use a tripod unless you have a plan for intentional camera movement, cable release like I already mentioned, and use a light meter app on your phone: I recommend Lightme.
Looking forward to seeing your shots bro :--) get out there
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>>4512352
>Spot metering and evaluative metering will give different setting suggestions for the same scene.
I'm struggling with that one a little, spot seems to vary wildly if I move even slightly and evaluative also seems to say different things to my digital (as I take both to compare and try to see what I might get). It feels like the film camera always tries to overexpose in many scenes.
>Ultramax 400
It's what I use since I get it really cheap, good to know it has room to be overexposed in that case.
>Use a tripod unless you have a plan for intentional camera movement, cable release like I already mentioned, and use a light meter app on your phone: I recommend Lightme.
I was hoping for handheld but I'll try out with a tripod sometime then. I did also try using Lightme but the results seemed to be weird sometimes, it was wildly different to what my mirrorless would select, but that could also be a film related thing. I'm really new to how film works and for all I know, settings will be different as a result compared to digital.
>Looking forward to seeing your shots bro :--) get out there
I have some daytimes and evenings, so I'll throw those into /fgt/ when I have more time. Thanks anon :)
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>>4512399
not bad, but it could be better. there's some vignetting in the top left, the branch on the top right is taking away from a clear view and the horizon would be better position towards the lowest third of the frame since there's so much negative space. exposure is decent though and the mist adds mood. do I like it? no, not as a whole. i only like some things about it.
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