Thread #97883953
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Work in Progress, "I can't believe I have to be at work in less than 12 hours!" Edition
>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD
>WIP Tutorial Images Mega
https://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw
>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno
>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s
>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI
>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM
>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c
>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk
>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI
>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g
>Airbrush Priming and Thinning
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8
>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny
>Previous Threads:
>>97873529
>>97858239
>>97840919
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planting my first freehanded banner down to mark the thread for the karaz ankor
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A cleric of filth I'm working on! Nimlurun iykyk, with a great white rat cloak.
The plan for the armor is rusted over severely, but the color is up for debate. I'm thinking green with silver trim
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Did up some orks and gretchen speedily
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>>97883953
Working on a kill team of ghostly guardsmen.
>>97884142
Veri nice!
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>>97884843
It isn't out yet, but look for Factorum Labs.
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asking again has anyone tried gsw's metallic paints? I hear people talk about the other shit they sell all the time, but I've never seen anyone using their paint except for a few jewtube videos that say it's awesome.
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It's been a while, but I repainted my Nadeshiko themed bust from scratch, not that I was that far into it to begin with. I've still got some work to do, the face especially is too dark (or the body skin is too bright, either/or).
Also I figured out a new setup for really easy black backgrounds that's been working well, at least in my case.
Get something like a laptop screen or a tablet, and instead of having it in the same orientation as the photo, turn it 45 degrees or whatever direction that isn't going to reflect your light. Unless you've got lights all over the place you should be able to find an angle that doesn't have any obvious reflections and you get a super black background.
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Are these worth it? I rarely see people talking about them
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>>97885320
I once tried them with brush, didn't really work as each new layer would reactivate and tear the previous one. Maybe with airbrush they would be better but I don't want to risk and I don't have active ventilation either.
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Based and varnished him
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My dogslop sculpts
I would like to make a mold and copies of the barbarian guy as I really would like to paint it, but not over the master...
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>>97885801
Well considering by the looks of it all you've done is base coated, washed, and dont a quick dry brush, yea, theres a lot you could do. Glaze some actual color in, highlight the flesh, hihglight boils, add texture to the cloth, high the more ovvious proonter marks.
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>>97885801
The pic is really dark, so it's hard to understand the colors.
>paint the nails and teeth
>paint the branch/staff (it doesn't look highlighted)
>highlight the face to draw attention to it
>finish the base. It will give you more info on colors/saturation/points of interest.
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only 5 boys left before i can get into my deff dread .
>>97884503
great checks on that guys axe
>>97885801
imo its all very dark - this would look better if you made some stuff super bright , like yellow spots, to give some contrast
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>>97885977
better job on the eyes than I usually bother with mob infantry. nice work
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I have cleaned up the chest the best I could and added a wash. I think I put it on a little heavy but it's not that bad in person.
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>>97886113
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>>97886115
Like >>97886138 says, it's Louise Sugden, aka "Savage Ork Anon". She used to post here with us, but then got hired to work at Forge World, which then got absorbed into Games Workshop proper.
You're probably not gonna wanna sit through the whole thing, but she was in GW's "How to Play – Warhammer Quest: Blackstone Fortress" with Peachy, Saint, Duncan, and Becca Scott:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=THr3cB1n0VM
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I tried speed paints thinned with speed paint medium. It's a completely different type of paint. It actually works how I think it's supposed to? Previously it just kind of stained everything and sometimes got thicker in the recesses. Now it just works correctly. Although it's a little thinner, so the light grey primer shows through much more, but it seems to actually work correctly now.
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>>97886133
White colors are problematic to get thinned properly in general, that's why it is recommended to start with something darker before moving up (like light, warm brown for ivory and then white or very light grey to white-grey and finally white). You will get it eventually if you won't stop training.
>>97886209
Alright, thanks. Reminds me of one cute store staff girl I knew, who used to paint minis and gunpla. Waited too long to ask her out and lost my chance, something I regret to this day, after all those years.
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>>97886024
raising a kiddo ha. I used to get like ~50 games of 40k a year in during my 20s. Now I'm a grog who mostly paints in the evening. Playing some Dystopian Wars lately, jumping into an upcoming Necromunda league tomorrow. As time goes on, I'm much more of a hobbyist than a gamer, just the way life goes I suppose.
still, this hobby has made me many of my dearest friends and spawned lots of good memories.
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>>97886362
it's weird to think I've been painting over half my life now
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>>97886438
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Working on some blackshields, I forgot to take a picture of their before color so the world will simply never know
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>>97885715
>he thinks it looks fine on the tabletop
He's right, clean minis look good if the paint coat is truly clean. It's like gunpla.
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>>97883953
Done with my second repulsor executioner, I dont particularly like painting vehicles but Im okay with how it came out. Here it is next to the first one
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>>97886352
>I used to get like ~50 games of 40k a year in during my 20s. Now I'm a grog who mostly paints in the evening.
You're not me, but ... how are you me?
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>>97886275
Washes are the same way, Marine Juice is far superior to straight out of the pot.
Everyone knows to thin your paints but pretty much every type of paint works better thinned. The exception is art brand inks, which are actually better thickened a little.
>>97886336
>>97886351
The formula is secret but there is absolutely no way it's simply surfactant (which is what rinse aid is).
It is some sort of a low viscosity polymer medium. I would guess some retarder too.
You'll get there sooner by adding water to matte medium than you will by adding dish soap to your contrast paints. You don't want to lower the surface tension, that's what causes uneven staining.
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>>97886587
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>>97886568
time marches on my friend. I wasn't as young as the kid in the picture but I was ~14 when we pulled out my friends figs and rulebooks on the floor of his attic and tried to figure out 2nd edition. My neighbor got me into Space Hulk and Ogre and away I went down the rabbit hole
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>>97886587
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>>97886618
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>>97886630
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>>97886618
>>97886630
I got mine properly trained, I can leave paint pots and miniatures out and she won't touch them, Ive had some minis on my coffee table for months un-swatted just to prove it.
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>>97886571
>>97886667
Thank you
No I havent used contrast on these, it'd be a nightmare since I don't have an airbrush. The base black is literally just the primer's.
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>>97886691
Cats are as easy to train as dogs, consistency and repetition.
Two main hurdles are
>no one even tries with cats, theyre allowed to do as they please
>like with dogs, other people in the home fuck it up with mixed messaging
That's it.
Mine even fetches.
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>>97886894
They can certainly train but their psychology is different. My cat understands boundaries and understands things like "sit" and "up" but he'll listen if he feels like it. It's not mixed messaging, we're consistent.
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>>97887382
I have a wife and kids, seat sniffer.
>>97887415
>imagine giving a shit that some girl used to be on 4chan
Did she show tits?
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>>97887462
>Don't post bait in the OP then.
That's why each night we does the Tell, so we can remembers who we wuz, and where we comes from.
Even when I build the collages by hand, there are invariably blank spaces left over - sometimes more than others - so I like to slip in things that we as a community have fondly baked into our identity: Louise, Duncan, Rin, Johnny ... if it makes enough of us smile and appreciate WIP just a little bit more, I feel it's worth it.
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>>97887462
>woman exists
>gets angry
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>>97887592
Never listen to the schizos unless you're trying to triangulate their location to call in artillery.
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This is my first time painting anything bigger than a marine, so I don't really have good instincts
Does the flesh here look like it needs another coat before I wash?
I've done two (Rakarth Flesh)
Sorry for the shitty lighting
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Body trim mostly done, just needs a little oiling.
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>>97888018
The metal parts look suitably wicked - as one would expect from the Dark Mechanicus. I think the flesh is ready for its washing. My experience with Rakarth Flesh has been less than stellar. Like Citadel's other off-whites, a lot of times I feel it gets chunkier than it should be. Did you experience this? If so, how'd you get around it?
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Started up 2nd Juve for retro Eschers. Its a print of a scan so I don't where the fidelity got lost but it was a tricky one.
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>>97886980
Looks great, I really like the vibrant colors you used for the veggies(I think that's what they are, right?)
>>97886545
Fantastic work as always!
>>97886413
That's an impressive portfolio, anon.
>>97886113
It's pretty clean now, good job. You could maybe try adding a couple highlights on the most prominent edges? It should be pretty easy to do if you approach them with the side of your brush.
>>97885977
Really nice work on the skin!
>>97885801
I'm assuming the grimdark is intentional but I think it would still benefit from some kind of "pop". Maybe you could try painting the boils in a brighter tone and make the skin around them a bit inflamed?
>>97885243
Lovely pinks and I(obviously) like the Nadeshiko palette
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>>97888347
It was over 30ºc here today so paint was fighting me a bit, probably introduced some texture that way. Like I mentioned its a 3D print of a scan neither of which I did so there's some other surface texture from that as well.
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Quick paintjob, I can feel my NMM slowly improve
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>>97888441
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CZs0PFjX9cI Sorry for the unhelpful comment.
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>>97888370
>I'm assuming the grimdark is intentional but I think it would still benefit from some kind of "pop".
OG grimdark had plenty of white and yellow, even in the Turnip style there should be a healthy amount of light brown or off-white.
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>>97888732
>tribalist faggot who goes into /aosg/ to shitpost about how good WHFB is
>goes into /40kg/ to cry about how bad 10e is despite never playing once in his life and showing off the same handful of halfpainted beastmen and a single plague marine
>goes into /wfg/ to complain about how bad it is compared to mesbg
he's just an insufferable faggot that spends his days shitposting instead of painting
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>>97888769
>recesses on the beard darker for contrast.
How would you go about doing that? My thinking was that the focal point of the dwarf warriors are the shields, so I wanted to make it look like the light is beaming on their shields and whatever else that would be situated in that direction.
I took this photo from another angle to kind of explain what I mean, I tried to paint it like the light is coming from slightly above and in front of where he is raising his shield.
>>97888776
Lies upon lies.
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>>97888822
Non australian version.
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>>97888822
>>97888831
fuck
off
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I have a very specific problem doing eyes. I have more or less the precision to do them right, but I sometimes just can't fucking see where the eyeball is. I've thought about buying a magnifying headset to help. Anything else I can do?
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>>97889285
Yeah, magnification can help.
But also lighting direction, and sculpt geometry can be issues.
Shadows from any eyelids and eye sockets can make seeing them properly hard in a lot of lighting conditions where you can still properly access the eye from the right direction with your brush.
Lots of (shittier) models have just poorly defined eyes and it's better to just paint them in a way that looks good despite the geometry.
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Every time I say I'm done it's a lie.
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>>97889523
I'm thinking of other solutions. I wrote something else that would have made more sense in context but then deleted it.
But ya my lighting is mediocre. A nice bright white light in my hallway but it's just a ceiling light. Sometimes I'll use a headlamp but then I take it off and forget about it.
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>>97890072
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I honestly cannot believe I waited this long before trying a panel liner. You know that 'talent in a bottle' thing about washes that's not really true? Well this thing is basically magic. You can make a basecoat look like a nearly finished mini in two minutes and you could pretty much do it in the dark it's so easy
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Went and looked at the game rules a bit and saw the sponsors thing, so these two are going to be fast and painted clean, laser weapons and boosters with a uniform build to represent a very high money sponsor investment vs the last two I did rusty and ad hoc.
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Are the army painter blanche paints any good? I just find it odd that their site doesn't even have an image displaying how the individual paints look painted on a model like all their other speedpaints do (pic rel)
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not my best bases, but I had fun making them
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>>97875748
Some much better photos of my recently completed mimic. Took them in the sunset.
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>>97875748
>>97890544
Brighter light with more inner tongue detail
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>>97875748
>>97890544
>>97890547
Rawr!
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>>97890423
You just activated my autism, buckle up.
>Zorn palette
First of all the Zorn palette is not a meme, it's a great way to harmonize your color scheme. It also teaches mixing well since you need to work those four paints hard to get a decent range. It's perfect for expressing either a gloomy or violent mood (both wonderful for 40k) and can have some bright colors without looking clownish, even when it should (Howling Griffons).
I don't want to say "let's you and him fight" but there's an anon /here/ who has a yellow chaos army with the Zorn palette and it is one of my favorites.
>Blanche palette
I've seen Blanche describe his paints (and inks) in multiple sources, and he always included non-Zorn colors, although a lot of his works follow a Zorn color scheme (with a brighter yellow). He doesn't mention Zorn in the older sources, in Ratspike he even lists his favorite artists without Zorn. Most of the paintings in Ratspike don't follow the Zorn palette however so maybe he discovered it later. The Inquisitor Sketchbook is entirely in those 4 colors.
>the colors
The Blanche paints have little to do with the Zorn palette. They name drop Zorn but the only extent of that is 4 "inspired" colors in the main sets, one of which is wrong (Zorn requires a cool white, although the effect of the off-white is reduced when there's a pre-mixed cool grey). The Zorn connection is pointless, you can get that with 4 bottles of paint.
On the other hand, they are obviously Blanche in spirit since he helped design them. They match a lot of 40k art that came later inspired by him, more than they match the paints he actually used. I think a better way to think of them would be the grimdark palette by John Blanche.
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>>97890607
How so? It's a thin layer of paint that just went flying through the air.
Or do you mean you want it to take longer? You can add retarder but the whole point of an airbrush is the flat coat that comes from drying very quickly.
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>>97890364
>>97890607
the problem is that it reactivates, not that its not dry
my advice: add some varnish to the ink when airbrushing
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>>97890643
It's really weird to me that I've been using ink for years for zenithals with zero issue ever, but as soon as eons of battle starts talking about how he varnishes over his zenithal because it's supposedly weak, everybody is suddenly having ink+airbrush issues. Note that he never had an issue doing it for years before either. I guarantee in 1, maybe 2 years he will mysteriously have dropped it from his process.
That said, I guess some people think it's necessary to varnish over your zenithal if you think that might help.
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>>97890653
Couple of things
1) I dont watch the fat balding retard videos so idk what his process is
2) I have been doing the ink+varnish (MIXED) for years now so idk whats up with that
I just came to that solution on my own after several experiences with the zenithal reactivating when painting over it.
In any case, I rarely do zenithal nowadays, maybe if I intend to do the basecoats with contrast-like paints, but I rarely approach minis that way anymore.
So yeah, maybe people are doing it because its a fad, maybe some had legitimate issues with ink reactivating (i can attest that it does happen) but in my case instead of taking x2 the time I simply mixed the ink with varnish to make it resistant.
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>>97885016
I try to stay away from gsw, so I have no personal experience.
Stahly is usually very thorough and did a review of the range, with a not great verdict on the metallics.
>needs lots of shaking
>splits on wet pallets
>golds don't work
>leaves bubbles
Unless gsw is very cheap were you are I'd just go with one of the good brands.
>>97890494
I think those would benefit a lot from matt varnish and a clean rim, but they are already a nice addition to the minis.
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Snalè
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>>97890722
Hey now, I thought this was the Work-in-progress general. Trust the plan.
I have been thinking about how to make the shell a bit more interesting, but they aren't all that colourful in their official artwork anyway.
I might try to hit it with some green or a bit of purple dry brushing.
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>>97890602
Nah, AP are just a bunch of cheap fucks, but with a good marketing. Their Warpaints Fanatic range was (and still is) way too bright and desaturated because they put too much white into everything, basically having no vivid dark colors. "Blanche" sets, are the only paints that are on the darker scale, and a bit more vivid, too. When you start looking at the sets in that way, the entire thing starts to make sense. Blanche lent his name for money, that's about it.
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>first can of vallejo spray varnish (gloss)
>shake it well for 2 minutes
>spray mini
>so white that for a second I thought I was spraying with the wrong can
>it came out super thick and granular
>currently letting it dry hoping it wont look like shit
What did I too wrong? Sprayed too close?
I had the same spray but as Prince August previously and I was told they were the same brand so I expected the same product.
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>>97890980>>97890980
Hate to say it (since I use Vallejo paints frequently) but their spraycan varnishes are somewhat odd. It is possible that you got bad batch, too.
About distance, how close you kept it? Usually it is recommended to keep it at around 30cm away.
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>>97883953
Looking for a recommendation for a 'blacken steel' color.
I hear people glazing P3 for that but never used it before. Anyone used it (and know the color). Or does anyone have a good blacken metal recipe (preferably no more than two steps- I need to use it for literally hundreds of 10mm models).
Thank you for any help! Pic unrelated
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Got all 20 models done, now I can work on the bases tonight. Should be all finished after that.
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>>97890937
When you want bright and desaturated with great coverage they're the best on the market. The Blanche sets do include a few important darker shades for the original triads, but the default assumption is you're painting over a black primer and drowining models in washes so it makes sense why they went that direction.
My biggest complaint with them is the finish being too glossy. Time I save in layering due to coverage and ease of wet blending (compared to AK's thin streaky airbrush-friendly paints) is then lost brushing on matt varnish.
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>>97890989
30cm doesn't sound that far off compared to where I was, and like I said a previous can worked perfectly with same use.
Unfortunately seems like a defective product. Should have bought the exact same one.
Is Prince August not the same as Vallejo?
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>>97891043
If I want bright and desatured with great coverage, I'll just grab AK colors that are supposed to be bright and desatured. Not AP paints that are bright and desatured because the company that made them are retards.
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>>97891109
I don't know what AK has done to earn the fellating they get here. I have two of their acrylics I really like (warm grey and black) because they cover light grey primer smoothly in one coat, but the other dozen or so are very average, no better than GW equivalents. Old vallejo was better, and I still prefer working with a lot of the Scale 75 I have despite their obvious deficiencies.
They should rename the line ">3 thin coats"
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>>97891120
>I don't know what AK has done to earn the fellating they get here.
Because AK is the "it just werks" company. It's consistent, reasonably priced, and dependable. That, and the fact that they also make pretty good enamels and oil paints, which are exactly the same kind of just werks.
>no better than GW equivalent
I have over 90 AK paints and most of them perform better than (much pricier) GW equivalents. But even if they were just about the same, it would be a better deal because of how overpriced Citadel paints are (and because you have to decant them from shitty pots).
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>>97890653
It's true, I said the same thing as you, and then the autist I was arguing with claimed it was still a thing even if the mini was dry for months, I just happened to have a yellow ABd marine WIP about 6 months old, and I shit you not, the yellow ink would come off on a damp dry brush, not a lot, but it would
I hope you enjoyed my essay
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Because I'm between houses, I'm storing a lot of my mini painting gear at my parent's place, and I'm staying with a friend in the next city over. I haven't been able to paint a mini in about a month and I feel just about ready to tear my skin off.
What can I do to fill this hobbying gap in my heart? It has to be a solution that doesn't require buying a whole setup.
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>>97891265
Matter of fact you can even paint whole miniatures with just black and white, and practice rendering different materials by texture, osl, nmm....etc
Evidently you'd limited to value contrast and no colour contrast, but its an excellent exercise
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>>97888280
Finished up the Juve
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>>97891130
>hold mini in one hand
>spray can in the other
>put them both down because I forgot to put a glove on and I dont want to paint my hand black again
>pick both back up
>spray
>goes directly into my face because I didnt check after picking it back up
I feel you
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>>97891407
>>97891130
you guys ever run into a tunnel, only to discover the tunnel entrance was a painting in front of a wall, so then you slam your head into said wall?
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>>97891130
>have super shaky hands
>terrible combo with resin+glue
>grab a finished chaos dreadnought fist i need to varnish
>drop it inside
>one blade breaks off
>re-glue it
>go on balcony
>drop it again
>two of the spikes break off
>somehow manage to find both tiny spikes in the balcony dirt (countryside)
>re-glue them
>varnish it, come back later
>think varnish is cured, grab the fist
>two giant digit prints on the armor
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>>97884859
I'm finally down to the last details. Mainly lenses, glowing bits and small fixes.
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Priming grey this time and not drybrushing to get a smooth clean paintjob.
Looked at the rules closer for making cars and a standard game can only afford 1 laser gun each for two "performance cars" while also having "nitro boost".
sadly the "jet engine" equipment is chassis locked to "drag racers" and that doesn't fit the theme for supercars.
So the bigger laser is now just a sensor module/camera.
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>>97888707
>>97890647
Thanks anons.
As I've learned, the key for NMM its not the smoothness, but the quick jump from dark to bright, and -I cannot stress this enough- the secondary reflections (which never, ever, should be as bright as the main one)
And just keeping in mind that metal operates on a different value range compared to other materials, going from dark to very bright really fast.
Also adding some ambient reflection in the form of colour helps even further.
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>>97891521
i knew that car on the right seemed familiar, but mine looks like a smaller version
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>>97889400
That looks great. Looks a bit like the Ontos.
I generally like your stuff, but its too "british" looking for the most part. But this vehicle/turret combination i would actually buy on MMFduring a sale
I'm continuing with my vehicles.
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I don't think I can do her eyes better.
I'm also afraid of making her too Caucasian when highlighting her skin.
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>>97891884
They look pretty good I think. They need a white dot though by the pupil, and the bit on the right iris's top right corner where it's blending into the sclera is the biggest issue.
>I'm also afraid of making her too Caucasian
Understandable.
You can always glaze it back down to be browner in the shadows after the fact if you need to, but it does look like you're going for a smoother, more flat shaded anime-figure type of look, unless that's just because you haven't started the skin much yet.
Also, the new captcha taking like 30 seconds to load is going to kill 4chan completely. Here's hoping it's just a tech issue and not a thing on purpose to force people to buy the pass or something.
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Did one of my blackshields up, still need to work harder on my bases
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>>97891911
I only painted base layer of skin tone and applied washes, just started with eyes since thats where I usually get most problems. Im almost tempted to just leave her as she is.
Posting is also affected from what I noticed so its most likely side-wide issue.
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>>97890637
lmao
>>97890643
>>97890653
It depends on the ink, some inks don't have a lot of medium so it's fragile. Not reactivating technically. I add medium to ink so it's wash consistency just so it's a little more controllable, but it also adds a little durability.
In case you think I fall for youtuber memes, I never use varnish as an intermediary step because of poor adhesion on top of the varnish, but I know some youtubers swear by it.
>>97891043
I like that paint job. I agree that opacity is its own reward sometimes.
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>>97891991
Varnish as an intermediary layer is a bit misunderstood imo. I've heard some youtubers refer to it as a 'checkpoint' or 'savepoint' or something, and the idea that you could realistically remove anything over top of it without damaging the paint underneath is silly - if you're just painting with acrylics the whole time.
When it does make sense though is as an intermediary step between different kinds of paints and to adjust surface finishes for various reasons.
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Work on the tentacle robots continues. I also added a lobster-like tail carapace to them to hide the shoddy green stuff work. But I am unsure if it works as intended. Quite pleased with having come up with the aluminium cable idea for tentacles.
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>>97891221
https://youtu.be/VGbf4mxagmU?t=654
this was the video I was watching. do you think vallejo is better than these?
>>97891008
what do you mean by "blacken steel?" if you are talking about plain black oxide like a drill bit finish you can just use pretty much any black. if you want the slightly blue tint like a fancy gun barrel mix a few drops of blue into gloss black. ammo has a gunmetal color that looks like that, but people here say they don't like ammo paints.
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>>97892023
And here's the view from the back. The lobster plate look rather too flat, so I might remove them.
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Still a ways to go, but making progress
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>>97892064
Doing interiors as well
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>>97892027
Does this look flat black to you?
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>>97892098
black oxide/bluing (it's the same thing) will have the same finish as how the metal was to begin with. if it was sand blasted it will look flat. if it was highly polished it will look like a black mirror. depending on the alloy and the specific process it can have a slightly blue tint.
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>>97891780
Yeah I took inspo from the Ontos.
>too british
Waiter! My steak is much too juicy!
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>>97892415
Now do I put the windows back in under the mesh and almost completely hide the interior paint, or...
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>>97892448
Go with just mesh and make it somewhat visible?
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>>97892579
>>97892581
It's slow and it's tricking everybody into double posting lmao.
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>>97892581
Thought that was my service, not just me then
Cant undo the mesh at this point, the question is purely mini aesthetic though, with a nice leather interior the cars have glass, don't want dust inside while deathracing, prosti-groupie passenger wouldn't like that. just steel grid reinforced.
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>>97892592
>>97892615
It's a sign to finally leave here. Yet another opprotunity to squander
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Are the edge highlights too subtle? Usually I do them too bold and I'm wondering if I over corrected.
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Finished 20 slayers last week.
Currently working on finishing a bunch of movement trays.
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Just finished the hobgrots.
Ordered a new airbrush, I've been trying out a non-standard trigger airbrush (for comfort reasons) and it was very cheaply made. Can't really do precision work on these models as evident by the glow effects on the bases being way too wide.
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>>97892924
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Saw someone do assault marine jump packs something like this many years ago before primaris was a thing.
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>>97885320
Not really, no. I think some people use them as their first vallejo metallic and are wowed, but Metal Color uses the same metallic powders. I really only work with plastic models, so I've never had cause to use them, but maybe they work better on other surfaces, I don't know. Water-based acrylics are always fine for me.
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Done.
Dinged up the hood of the Lamborghini clamping it until the glue dried, fucking bullshit, even used a cloth to try and prevent tool marks.
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>>97886545
Holy crap, dude, that's some nice black armor.
>>97886694
>The base black is literally just the primer's.
Are the grey and brown tones sponged on? The way it transitions to black at the center of all the panels really reminds me of plating on submarines, you pulled the illusion off really well.
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I got a new silicone and this one is transparent which looks kind of cool from the clear side.
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>>97893520
Fuck that image was huge, resized it
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>>97893529
Also working on some hellions, heavy wip on the pictured rider but the hoverboards are mostly done, just some oozy poison on the guns and a bit of decaling, I wanted sort of a stinky dirty cyberpunk biker gang vibe
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>>97893550
And some very stinky industrial bases for the same army
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Starting to come together
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Spent a little while preparing some terrain to paint tomorrow. All that's left to do before painting is some final carving/surface deformation on the foam.
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4 or 6 tentacles?
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If you don't paint for long periods of time, how important is it to take out your unused paints and shake/mix them during that inactivity?
When I only had Citadel pots I would try to do that once or twice a year (and also add a few drops of water to each pot, since that bad design is not even close to airtight). Often forgot and went longer.
Now everything I have either comes in a dropper bottle or gets transferred to one by me. So I wouldn't bother adding water. But is it worth taking them out and shaking?
I honestly don't know if it's necessary or just a self-soothing performance. Maybe on the scale of like a decade+ the solids in a bottle could compress to the point of becoming unmixable. But for a year or a few years they seem fine?
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>>97894314
This: >>97894323
I stopped painting for 1½ years and started back up last week. An electric paint mixer and some stainless steel mixing balls let me salvage 90% of my old paints.
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>>97894314
If stored properly (no extreme temperature, no direct sun exposure, airtight containers, etc.) there's a solid chance acrylics will outlast you. I know people who used/revived acrylics made in the early 90s. As other anon said, get vortex for reviving old paints.
Otherwise, I would use distilled water instead of tap. Better yet, use acrylic medium, if you need to.
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>>97894314
>>97894323
Recently I got a cheap tattoo ink mixer off Amazon. Works great and doesn't make a ton of noise.
I've also had Vallejo bottles that sat in my cabinet for years and worked decently enough with some dedicated shaking.
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So many nights lately, I've been sitting down thinking, "this'll be the night I finish this guy," and I see just how much further I have to go ... and then after that, there are the six ladz he's gonna be leading!
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>>97894179
4 big many more smaller ones around
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>>97894486
>lieutenant diavolo
>diavolo
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Do you niggas use your vortex mixers, like... IN the actual course of painting?
I thought that's what they'd be good for, but then I got one and 60 seconds on that thing has my hand feeling like it just did a line of coke. Phantom jitters. It does not feel comfortable to go from that directly to holding a brush.
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>>97894967
Nobody will convince me that a vortex mixer is that useful. Like how many fucking OLD ass paints do you use each painting session? I shake a paint for like 10-20 seconds, use a couple of paints per session, it's never an issue.
The only times it's ever been an issue are with dirty down, which I barely ever use at the end for effects, some of the GW contrasts with fucking grey/white pigment in them for opacity that settles out and they are terrible so I don't use them anyway because it defeats their entire purpose
and tesseract glow, again, effects paints I barely use.
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>>97894982
It's extremely handy for airbrushing (can't stress this enough), metallics, old paint, thiccer paint, technical paints. But even normal, regular acrylics, it's hard to describe, but it is just a lot nicer to use properly mixed paints.
Also, Hiro, you slant-eyed rice-munching faggot, fix the fucking posting.
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>>97894967
you want the fancy kind that you don't have to hold to use. constant exposure to vibrations can cause nerve damage. load your paints into the shaker while you're setting everything else up and by the time you're ready to start the paint is good to go.
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>>97894989
>Also, Hiro, you slant-eyed rice-munching faggot, fix the fucking posting.
Captcha is working okay but people on /g/ reporting other services to run like shit, like Facebook Messenger. Whatever it is, problem seems global.
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>>97894982
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>>97894967
>>97894982
You do you, but shaking the paint by hand doesn't mix it very well. This doesn't matter super much for some paints, but things like metallics, speedpaints, effects paints, bright paints, whites etc benefit massively from being properly shaken. It's a luxury expense for sure, but if you paint for several hours every day then it's insanely worth.
It's not an airbrush, proper brush, proper lamp, proper desk level upgrade but once you got those basics in and feel like upping your game, I think it's the best "unnessecary" purchase you can make.
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>>97890980
When using a spray can of primer, varnish, base coat, whatever ALWAYS spray some cardboard first to make sure its shaken up enough and spraying evenly. It sucks to find out that you need to shake more or clean the nozzle when you spray a miniature. Either cardboard or a dedicated test mini, same thing when doing panel lining or oil washes.
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Okay, I say she is finished, again mostly because I admit of being unable to do her better. I know I should but somehow can't.
Also I learned my lesson about painting first and assembling later, not the other way around. Especially with such large models.
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WIP of the 3rd Escherm, trying a Ganger
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>>97895387
tried to do an exaggerated platinum blonde on the hair
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some more progress on Stegadon, it's taking me a while just to basecoat everything
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>>97895524
I did a basecoat of AK Tenebrous Grey + AK Ice Yellow then painted up the volume with clean Ice Yellow.
I mixed up a bluish purple using AK Dirty Red and S75 Navy Blue and glazed that over.
I know they use a purple treatment over peroxided hair to get the platinum blonde color so that was the theory and it kind of worked to give me a more interesting "white" hair.
This is it before the wash.
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>>97895103
add a reflection to the pupils (dot of white) and gloss varnish to the eyes.
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>>97896208
>>97896210
Oh, so now they post...
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>>97895246
Okay, let's try posting this again.
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>>97896309
>>97895246
Here's what I would recommend if you want to try and push it a little further, and most of this requires minimal technical skill.
Also, I should add that part of the issue with a lot of the figures you post is that you have a lot of specular reflections from whatever your lighting set up is. I'm not sure if it's because of a harsh flash, or light, or it's just because it could use a matte coat, but it makes things look washed out in a way that they probably don't in real life, especially on things like the red cloak where even the deep dark parts are a little shiny when they should be nearly black for a heavy cloth. This is often a side effect of washes ending up kind of glossy, a matte varnish might just fix it.
In order of importance
>you really need a pure dot of white in the eyes, it will instantly make her look more lifelike.
>highlights on the cheeks, the nose, chin, lips, and the inside corner of the eyes, and an allusion to some neck anatomy in this example
>shading, push her cheek/jaw plane a little more, a tiny bit under the eyes to suggest that volume (a crease is nice there, but is a bit difficult), underside of the lips, and some dark lining around the outer bottom part of the eyes to suggest eyelashes (also a bit technical)
A separate thing, I don't really want to prioritize because it does make a big difference, but isn't really more important than the face, is the hair isn't starting from dark enough a color imo. It's easier to start hair dark and try and leave the deep caps and lines between parts rather than paint it in after or wash it, a wash will never get dark enough.
The eye dots and slight highlights on the face would make a big difference on their own though.
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according to scientists here miniatures are too small to shade themselves, but at what size do they become big enough? chinese cartoon figures are 1:7 and seem to be fine on their own, but figmas are more like 1:10 and also look ok to me. is 1:35 the tipping point?
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>>97896469
I've often wondered this myself.
If you look at how high level painters deal with different scales of figures, once you get into the ~1/8th scale you stop seeing things like intentional shading and more just slight modulation in skin tones. On things like 1/12th and even 1/10th busts I still think you need to shade them. So I'd say around the 1/8th mark it stops being important, which lines up pretty closely with your 1/7th scale observation at least.
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>>97896054
>Any of you guys ever win any painting contests?
I haven't won in any competitions that were strictly about painting, but my army has won best painted at a couple of tournaments I went to.
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>>97896314
I appreciate the help, will try to apply even if I'm honestly afraid that I would only make it even worse instead. As for hair, I started with "burn sienna" over black primer, I simply think that I overdid the highlights as I usually do.
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>>97896927
I probably went a bit hard on the nasolabial folds and the undereye shading could be lighter. The nasolabial folds especially, they need to be there, but on young women, especially anime esque girls they need to be so subtle
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>>97896961
I don't see why they need to be there. The neck also looks dehydrated, and the cheekbone shading makes her face look sharper than it should be, like those Hollywood freaks.
Beautiful female faces don't need that much definition.
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Current progress on my pilotless triarch stalkers.
I have detail work, touchup, and the weapons left to do.
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>>97896493
what about kits like fags though? the big one is 1:6 but the smaller ones are 1:12. looking at the store image the style of painting doesn't seem any different.
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Thoughts on the basing? I have the feeling the grass is a touch too bright.
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Trying different grass types. You're going to tell me it's all the same but I don't want to base a full army without being sure.
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Finished a quick little character.
First time really trying to do a good OSL from the green flames. Any thoughts? I think I could do with a bit less on the arm.
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>>97894323
This works too
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Got side tracked from the chaplain and started on huron's goons. Also managed to post this 40k thread somehow, whoops.
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New thread:
>>97897985
>>97897985
>>97897985