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The spores are sprouting

>>97916087
left middle head looks like she's having a good time

>>97916087
N

>>97915625
Skin is S75 Basic Flesh highlighted with S75 Mojave White and shaded with AK Dirty Red and S75 Navy blue in a few different ratios.

Hair is AK Lead Grey for the dark and GW Zandri Dust for the blonde, both highlighted with S75 Mojave White

I don't like any of the common painting styles I see. how do I find alternative ones and how do I learn them when the instruction videos are all for the ways I don't like?

>>97916284
just like paint the model but like not in the way you don't like only paint it the way you like

>>97916291
but I don't know how

>>97916294
Post a picture of a mini that you like, and I will tell you how to get that result.

>>97916297
I can't really think of a miniature that's painted in a way that looks good to me. the style I like is like pg gundams or really detailed scale models where there's tons of tiny details and decals everywhere, but I don't think I've ever seen a miniature painted like that.

>>97916324
Maybe busts and bigger scale pieces are more to your liking?

>>97916325
I mean if I want to paint gundams and airplanes I can just do that, but I want to paint game figures too.

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>>97916324
This is just a solid white airbrushed basecoat with brown panel lining and brown chipping, then with some decals added on top.

>>97916325
Ignore him, it's the guy who's butthurt because we don't paint like scale modelers.

>>97916376
you're blind

>>97916408
It's also got a bit of brown airbrushed/glazed on top in certain spots, but the official viorla scheme is usually just two or three paints, one white and 2 browns. It is by far the simplest eavy metal scheme, this is known.

>>97916284
Teach yourself obviously. Nobody can tell you what style you like if you dislike "all" the styles.

>>97916284
Post some stuff you do like (doesn't have to be minis) so we can better understand you're tastes.
Right now you're being as clear and sharp as a ball of concrete.

>>97916324
Decals are not a painting style. Maybe look over at /40kg/. There is a regular poster with a very decal heavy space wolves army. That is something you might enjoy.

>>97916442
I don't like decals.

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Just a little question for you lads. I've been painting on and off for years myself.

How is it that the "Spanish Airbrushcore and black latex glovesloppa" type painters the algorithm feeds me, manage to use such big brushes?

I understand it's the point of the brush that matters and not the "belly", but look at this one, it looks like quite a fat brush end to me and yet he gets all the fingers perfectly.

>>97916526
He just doesn't put any part of the brush over the edge of the detail. It's a matter of brush control.

>>97916526
>I understand it's the point of the brush that matters and not the "belly"
You explained it yourself.
>but...
"I understand it's the point of the brush that matters and not the "belly""

>>97916526
I recall some lecture about how writing religious icons would start by prospective artist spending months on just drawing straight lines until he or she would get perfectly straight ones of same width each time. To put that into perspective, you are looking at work of someone who spent years on perfecting painting little dudes and associated very high level of control.

>>97916526
a fine pointy tip only matters when you want to do a fine line, dot, or get into a tiny place or corner, for everything else as long as the hairs are tidy, they define a hard boundary of where paint will and won't be,so even if the tip of the brush is round you 'just' need to move that inside the lines

>>97916544
Pretty much this. It's the complete opposite of painting "on and off". Instead it's constant repetition for years. You see this one marine, but you don't see the 100+ other miniatures he did before he got to this level

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Working on some infernal razers.

>Put all my chorf models into a list on new recruit
>Not even 1k points
I was hoping these guys would be a bit more elite... It'll probably be 5th edition before I can play a full game with them.

>>97916526
It looks like he's using contrast paint so is likely not using his best fine detail brush as its gonna be flooding the ferule. He's not paintin each finger individually, he's just making slight contact with the highest points of the finger and the contrast paint will flow from that contact and wick onto the rest of the shape of the finger.

>>97916294
None of us knew how until we stated trying.

>>97916294
how do you think you learn, dumbass?

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Early stages.
I've owned the citadel box of skulls for years now and this is the 4th one I've used, damn thing is going to last me a lifetime.

>>97915988
anon from >>97915247 here.
I'm still open to recommendations of good trigger style airbrushes that will hopefully last a long time even with less than stellar maintenance.

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>>97916874
Thank you for your eloquent explanation, anon - and I mean that genuinely.

>>97917643
I do not know why that rocket launcher pose, the one with it up on his shoulder, is so burned into my memory.

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Queen done. The rest of the swarm remain...

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>>97917652
>I do not know why
The "stabilizing left hand" has been a staple of multi-part Space Marine rokkit chukkas since 3rd Edition, circa 1998. I can think of at least four different kits that have included a piece like that.

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gonna attempt some kinda nmn-style on the axe then i feel i might be done

Can Milliput or Green Stuff expire even when kept in airtight bag and separated? I mean, Im puzzled why some elements I tried to make using two part mold somehow refuse to stick together.

>>97917760
yes, usually one of the components will start kind of drying out even if kept completely separate from the activato
you notice there are hard lumps when mixing the 2 parts

Is the MEGA still maintained? Some guy posted the latest Stahly pdf about a week ago but it was a litter

Why is it still so cold outside. It's messing with my resin curing.

>>97917867
>Is the MEGA still maintained?
We actively maintain the MEGA of tutorial images linked in the OP. Are you looking for a different one?

>>97917924
The Stahly in the WIP_Related_Documents folder is 2.0, some guy posted the latest in a litterbox link a little more than a week ago. Wondered if it's the 2.3 floating around or the new 2.4, or if it's even noteworthy enough of an update to replace the 2.0 in the MEGA.

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Finished another of my admech kitbashes. I feel pure dread thinking of building the other 5...

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>>97917973
And I just realized I need to paint the base rim

>>97917968
Here's the latest. https://litter.catbox.moe/0tgkfons1qwiz39n.pdf

I don't have time to mess with a more persistent hosting, so you can reup it anywhere.

>>97918009
Thanks. Here's catbox and gofile if anyone wants
https://files.catbox.moe/6pww4r.pdf
/d/4dBGsP

95% done with garrix, still needs a few details painted but I’m pretty burnt out on him so I’m gonna get started on either the sorcerer or apothecary. Not sure about the basing for the unit yet but I’m thinking a sandy beach with some coffee stirrers as ship planks.

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>>97918171
fugg forgot image

>>97917973
>>97917984
Cool kitbash. You had a pretty nice gradient going on the robes so why are the highlights so hamfisted and messy?

>>97918186
The gradient was an accident, I don't even know how I managed that

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The molds for this one are the best I've done so far.
The blue looks a lot better as a base than the white does, the translucent white castings always looked weird.

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>>97918009
>>97918051
Wow. That was fast. I head out for lunch and already both links have been nuked?

>>97918314
catbox and gofile still work

>>97918314
That's a cool gif, what anime is it from?

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The interiors, before they get glued in forever.

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>>97918325
Huh. They seemed down for a while, but are once again working now. I grabbed the latest version and put it in the MEGA.

>>97918352
>what anime is it from?
I can't remember specifically, since it's not one I made myself, but a distant fragment of memory suggests to me it's from the original Neon Genesis Evangelion series - probably involving explosions from N2 mines or missiles.

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>>97916436
if I had to explain I would say I like when the model doesn't look like it was painted at all, or more like it is actually a much larger object that was painted with a spray gun instead of a miniature that was painted with a brush or an airbrush. most hobby painting styles I've seen have very obvious signs that they were done with a paint brush, and even ones that were mostly airbrushed still have that fuzzy airbrush art look.

>>97916376
I can't put my finger on it but there's something about this that I don't like. maybe it's the finish of the paint.

>>97918779
>gundam wearing clown shoes

>>97918779
There's an anon here going for a bare yellow plastic look on his Tau; maybe that would be to your taste.

>>97918779
what you want is flat light and a lot of tiny details, it's harder to do with the exagerated proportions and details of a space marine but you can get close

>>97915988
Red schizo anon
What are the most vivid reds readily available? Which ones would you recommend for a pure saturated red

>>97918177
Nice sketchy style.

>>97918779
Paint something in that style and post it.

how come you fags haven't scanned a Johnny yet so we can live in a more Johnny filled thread again

>>97918940
aHR0cHM6Ly9tZWdhLm56L2ZpbGUvUEVKaURZQVQjT2tIUVhxMTVXd2ZLdEs5SUdTZnhJMlFOWUNFYmRKbUstX1o2czJmSVdnMA==

>>97918779
Scale models and mecha kits are often painted in a very different manner than wargame miniatures. Mostly in flat colors sectioned out, for shading they use panel liners to increase the fidelity of the kit itself. For highlights its usually from the finish of the paint itself. They are often a much larger size/scale than wargame miniatures so the lighting happens from the geometry of the object/model itself.
Wargame/miniature painters whole thing is painting the light. Transitions and blends and highlights to try capture what the light would do if the miniature was at full scale. Very different intentions and results.
That said I have yet to see a scale modeler who includes people/humanoids that are painted in any other way than how us mini painters do it. I just don't think they translate, you can paint a space marine like that jet but its gonna look pretty boring even covered in decals with just flat white and blue.

>>97918991
What a stupid post.

>>97918991
>>97919011
I need you both to shut the fuck up right here before the thread goes to shit, thanks

>>97918991
>That said I have yet to see a scale modeler who includes people/humanoids that are painted in any other way than how us mini painters do it.
what about anime figures? they seem to have a different style than game minis.

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Slow progress on my slayer characters.

>>97917754
Very nice, slayer brother!

>>97919030
I think he meant in the scale of Gundam models, so like 1/144 or 1/100 scale.

>>97919061
>GW have now progressed from Tactical Rocks to Tactical Beards
jfc

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Another fleet, necrons this time. I'm remembering how much I like inks after banging out all the crystals today

>>97919358
there's also a tactical smoke trail on the chaplain they revealed today lmao

>>97919363
I hadn't seen that.
GW can't keep getting away with releasing the same marine 3 times as a 50 dollar kit. This is getting ridiculous.

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Does /wip/ have any models that you've been holding onto until you feel like you're "good enough" to give it the paint job your feel it deserves or want to give it?
>pic related
Got him when I first started and at this rate I don't know if I'll ever be "good enough" since I don't paint as much as I really should.

>>97919418
Somewhat with my Lord of Change, I was putting him off for a while until I felt I could do it justice.

>>97919523
At least the Lord of Change is easily replaceable. I'm always nervous going into a rare or difficult to replace model since I'm afraid of fucking it up. I'm getting better at it as I manage to convince myself that I'm a decent enough painter, but for ones I really care about that I know I won't be able to replace for less than 2-3x their value It's scary.

>>97919551
Do what I do and learn mold-making/casting and copy them.

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Got a ways to go with highlights weatheeing and other details but needed them glued together to progress.

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It's still raw as fuck, but the Repulsor kitbash into a tracked IFV is finally starting to shape up. Luv the workable tracks, easily the fanciest tracks I've ever worked with on a scale model. But goddamn, they take a long time to build.

>>97920113
but why the autocannon as the main gun? and not the big laser cannon?

>>97920131
Already kitbashed a tracked MBT, now I want to make a not-Bradley for Raptors. It's not for playing the tabletop.

What color do you mix into a burgundy paint to create a nice highlight? Every time I try painting burgundy it turns into purple.

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>>97919551
>I'm always nervous going into a rare or difficult to replace model
Emperor's Teeth, do I know that feeling!

>>97920174
Tiny bit of pale yellow will get you lilac-ish.

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>>97915988
Anon, how would you finish this guy's tactical rock?

>>97920291
Mechanicus Standard Grey
Wash with Nuln Oil
Layer with Administratum Grey
Highlight with Ulthuan or Celestra Grey

>>97920291
quick and dirty? dark then medium grey drybrush, a black wash of your choosing, then light grey highlights.

>>97920113
If that's mean to be a thermal IFF plate it should go on the outside of the basket, the whole point is to be a big bright rectangle to say "don't shoot me retard" and that'd be hidden by the bars and anything in there

>>97920246
God I wish I understood color theory. I thought maybe pink.

>>97917973
Anon, that's fucking cool.

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>>97920302
>>97920308
Might go with this instead.

>>97920291
cut it off. put his back foot on the base and the raised on on top of a skull or a loyalist helmet or something. fuck tactical terrain.

>>97920400
This is a good idea. I have some extra Space Marine helmets in my bit box.

>>97920395
Slop begone. Back to your containment thread.

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my nightlord test color scheme how does it look?
I know I need to make the blue a bit brighter but Im afraid to make it too bright
also what is a good wire for nightlord lightning?

>>97920563
I don't think you understand how that works.

Now that i've edge highlighted them it's time to make them rusty and dirty.

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>>97920605

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>>97916284
https://gofile.io/d/tjAlyM
You wanna take a peek through these and see if something catches your eye, here's all my relevant documents.

>>97920692
why not just use metallic paints?

>>97920758
People have done that as well.

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>Hello, I believe You have a painting style for me.
>Uh, Okay anon, what kind of painting style are you looking for?
>I... Don't know.

The absolute state of this thread.

>>97920692
thanks I will look through the ia ones. are any others likely to have anything significantly different from normal 'eavy metal?

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I bought some Raveners. Here's the first one so far

>>97918892
Hello?

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>>97920774
I've had to tell people irl that I can't give them directions if they don't tell me where they're going before, it's not such an absurd thing.

>>97918892
Sorry anon I dont live in the thread :)

Kimera The Red is very nice, its single pigment (PR170)
Pro Acryl Bold Pyrrole red, good one too
VMC Vermillion can look red as FUCK, as long as there arent other reds in the mini
People love Baal Red, but for me its too cold. Still, you may like it.

And as always, remember to paint it over a bright undercoat for maximum punch.

>>97921113
Other good reds:
Citadel Evil Sunz Scarlet
VGC Scarlet Blood
AK deep red

>>97920233
Why would you feel nervous about metal models tho? I get it if it's some rare and delicate fw resin, but you can strip paint of metal and plastic so much easier.. why worry? You can paint and strip a metal mini 20 times over and over again and you will not notice it.

>>97918892
One last thing, over time I learned (as many anons here) the key to make a 'very red' miniature, is to work on the shadows, not so much on the highlights.

I always recommend watching this video to really understand it:
https://youtu.be/nb1RkcAOG40

Sure, he highlights it. But just a bit, on very strategic places, but in reality theres a huuuge midtone area and shadows.

I'm looking at the blanket on my bed and how do you paint something so it reflects white when you look at it from an oblique angle but solid color when viewed head on?

>>97921113
thank you very much good spirit

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the endless line of boys continues - only four of these goons left.

>>97921380
>only four of these goons left
Then it's on to the next mob.

>>97920113
Do you have a list of tools and products you use for your conversions you could share?

>>97920113
>doing gw's work better than gw
not a high bar but damn son, that's so good

maybe it's a bit too tall?

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>>97921380
>Endless line of Boyz continues
Gosh, I feel that. When I was prepping to play green tide I was painting nothing but Boyz for months. Looking good anon.

Anyway, some more progress on my infernal razers. Honestly, I'm wishing these guys all had the pauldrons like the leader. The armor just looks a little off without them.

>>97920578
The filename demonstrably proves it's AI generated. AI slop can get gone and stay gone.

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Would this work for thinning normal paint? I got it ages ago for a failed experiment with oils. I've been told to use thinner to paint a vehicle with a lot of flat panels and I'm wondering whether it'd do the trick to avoid streaks and pooling

>>97921684
isnt that oil paint thinner?
it WONT work with acrylics
for acrylics the thinners must be water or alcohol based

>>97920319
It's not, I used the greeble to fill the hole from cutting. It will be mostly hidden by baggage anyway.

>>97921564
If you mean kits, then 90% of this is just Repulsor and Tamiya 1/35 Bradley. I have also bought fancy workable T-161 workable tracks from Ryefield models, but these are not really needed if you are not autistic about tracks. The ERA bricks are also from Ryefield, it's the Soviet Kontakt-1 in 1/35. Otherwise, it's just plasticard (white 2mm thick, and gray DSPIAE 1mm thick. There are some extra bits from other kitbashes (like the knight autocannon), but nothing that couldn't be replaced easily.

>>97921656
Thanks, anon! It is definitely on the taller side, but that's just how Citadel tonks are made. It kinda accents how GW never really considers wheels/suspension/and actual tracks. Anyway, I've cut the body as much as I could without ruining the Repulsor profile too much.

>>97921722
>I've cut the body as much as I could without ruining the Repulsor profile too much.
maybe you could push the wheels further into the tan armor part, leaving only half wheel visible, like the rhino, and push the tractor wheel upwards too

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Slowly piecing it together

>>97921754
damn that's one big guy

>>97921761
4u

>>97921748
I thought about that too, but the issue is that it would leave no space for tracks, let alone track return/support rollers. I sincerely think this is about as short as you can get with Citadel designs while keeping at least some semblance of the original model.

>>97919551
Bro that mini is like $15 at every single recaster

>>97921708
noted, thanks king. any recommended acrylic thinner or is it all the same shit? tryna paint a Legion ATST and using just water makes it too streaky

>>97921846
Nta most common would be what your paint has in it, say a matte medium as a thinner for a matte paint
buy vehicles like that are a nightmare to paint with a brush & paint, do you have a large dry brush? look into stippling and dry brushing, and check some YouTube armour modeller guys how they do armour, nightshit, artis opus did a atst, vehicles needa totally different approach

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Got the villagers and guards kits from WGA and started kitbashing. Pretty neat sets, though the villagers are very thin so it's hard to mix them with beefier plastics like GB.
Thinking about doing two little "warbands" of good guy rebels/lawful heir with the old loyalist knights (3 right) vs. bad guy usurper and henchmen (3 left). Not sure about the horned guy, didn't find any good two-handed arms for him and the Perry helmets were a bit too small so I might just use him to test paint schemes.

>>97920347
Lots of trial and error. I enjoy the act of painting just to paint, if I don't feel like working on a current project I'll just paint one of my test models. When done I prime over it and go again, if it gets too thick then it gets stripped.

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I was getting impatient and added some transfers and purity seal scribbles last night, but now I need to seal it (Micron pens smear terribly if you don't) before proceeding any further and it's raining today.

Maybe I can use the garage later.

>>97920113
with its current unpainted colors it looks like it'd fit right into a desert/urban warzone

>>97922529
I was actually thinking about ditching the usual Raptor olive and going with some urban camo or field grey instead. I would like to have a marine fireteam sitting on the sides, so it could be an interesting diorama.

>>97917687
Looks good man

>>97922505
>filename
Is this man a walking infinite death loop?

>>97922749
He takes a break every once in a while to phone Brother-Sergeant Doppio.

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I ended up using too dark of a red on this guy and just can't seem to get a clean picture of it.

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>>97920113
>Today, the Brutalizer Fighting Vehicle System represents a savage leap forward in battlefield supremacy, granting the Astra Militarum an unbreakable spearhead for its endless crusades.

>To endure the ceaseless fury of the battlefield and deliver troops into the heart of annihilation, the Brutalizer possesses formidable mobility. This is achieved through a sacred convergence of machine-spirit optimization, blessed engine output, and sanctified suspension rites.

>Operating in concert with the Imperium’s vast war machine—alongside Leman Russ battle tanks, artillery batteries, and the shrieking descent of aerial gunships—the Brutalizer ensures that the Astra Militarum remains an unstoppable force. A relentless hammer of the Emperor’s will, crushing all who stand before it.

>Firepower. Mobility. Survivability. Faith.
Together, they forge a weapon of war that stands as the Imperium’s promise to its enemies:

SECOND TO NONE

How do I get good at edge highlighting?

>>97922909
You get a good quality brush with a very fine tip, learn to thin paints correctly for edge highlighting and practice.

>>97922914
I have tons of brushes with fine tips, but they splay and get these little dots on the end even with perfect brush control.

>>97922897
>someone shares my obsession with 40k Bradley
Based beyond belief.

>>97922927
Just fyi, most brushes can be pointy if you get them wet and shape them into a fine tip, but it's about their resting state (when wet at least). The good brushes will tend to keep their tips better and not need to be coerced into a point all the time.
Assuming you do have good brushes, make sure you aren't twisting the brush to refine the tip when picking paint up. It might help get a sharp tip for a second, but as it untwists you'll get it splaying everywhere, despite it being intuitively a way to get a fine point.

The little dots on the end, I only ever see them with white paint (and paints with white in them), but it's unavoidable in my experience. Maybe some amount of retarder or flow improver would help but I never bother. When you notice they're being an issue I usually just scrape the bristles along my thumbnail (this might ruin synthetics, you can also squish it flatly between 2 paper towels and pull the brush back and that would be more delicate).
It's not an issue for most paints, but ymmv. You just have to address it before it becomes so bad it's a problem.
I've seen some say it's because of using paper towels. I've also tried the mechanics towels and I don't think it's from like fibers in the paper, I think it's just large pigments (white) that build up on the very tip.

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One thing I hate when it comes to people youtubers or otherwise when talking about wet palette is how the fuck can you check paint consistency if you're not using a non stick baking paper. Like every single video has the paint stay in a blob and if taken to a different layer where it's thinned, the paint moves about and springs back and forth depending on how thin it is making it easy to see. But with using the paper that comes with wet palettes? Fuck all information about how to use it. Not even the biggest redgrass shill shitmar says anything about it. There's like three people that do and one of them just says to use baking paper but they all just skip over it once the difference is mentioned. Fine, I'll keep a separate sub level to the main unthinned paint just for the thinned part but any mixing of sort just spreads the fucking thing which I guess can't be helped because every single image that shows a wet palette with its original paper only has five paints on it because it has to spread out just to get an idea on the consistency and in return you get to load three strokes worth of paint in your brush.

>>97922897
>deploymeny restricted for five centuries to ensure purity of machine spirit and materials

>>97923166
I just load paint onto a wet blue shop towel.

>>97923166
You just gotta test the paint on your thumb first. There's no other way.

>>97922868
Take the pic from further away, should help the camera focus better.

>>97922909
You paint with the side of the brush instead of the tip, spin and angle your mini so you can keep your hand moving in the same direction for the most control (up, down, to one side, whichever one you are most comfortable with).

>>97923213
unfortunately this just doesn't work outside of the most basic level of edge highlighting.

>>97923205
I did that and it didn't help much either.
It's not a very interesting paint job anyway, it's just red. Even the camera got bored.

>>97923166
Anon why do you think all those sloptubers have thumbs and fingers covered in paint strokes? It's to test consistency and to remove excess without dehydrating their brushload

>>97923166
>put a drop of paint on your wet palette
>rinse your brush
>wick it on some paper towels, check on your hand if you need to, you don't want to be leaving a streak of water
>brush needs to be moist, not damp
>pull a little of the paint from your drop
>spread it a little on the wet palette
>between the moisture in your brush and the wet palette it should be enough to thin the paint to a base layer consistency
>load the brush a bit, wick excess moisture on some paper towel before checking on your hand or test mini
>make sure you wick the brush well after rinsing, otherwise you are adding water every single time you go back to the palette and are breaking your paint
Takes practice to get right and each paint brand is different, nothing to it but just practice over and over, you'll get the feel of it eventually. Best thing you can do is get a test mini to check your consistency on. I use a couple of stormboys since they have several different textures on them between the skin, clothes, metals, and fur.

>>97923217
If they're asking about how to get good or consistent edge highlights then mastering the most basic level of edge highlighting is probably the best starting point.

>>97919362
Those came out very nice. Where are the models from?

I can't believe it but I just had a very pleasant airbrush session. Changed paints without issue, got the thinner mixes well on all of them, zero clogs, airbrush working beautifully and paint spraying wonderfully, good trigger control, did what I wanted to do pretty quickly and without a hitch. If I have another one like this I'm going to start believing I'm actually managing to tame this tool.

>>97923401
Very cool to hear. Airbrushing is awesome, it's just most of the time people gimp themselves by using shitty chinkbrushes that ARE pain to use or clean. It will only get better from this point.

>>97923401
>>97923418
I love airbrushing and the results it produces but god its such a hassle to set up, making the mixes, cleaning to change colours, etc...

>>97923502
You don't have your own hobby space or something? Otherwise it's all done in seconds.

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Trying to figure out how to make a heavy cuirass for the knight with a mail shirt. I did not glue anything on yet, as I'm not sure what to put on the upper body of the knight. Rondels would be a pretty simple thing to do, same with a gorget. I think I'll make the pauldrons with a similar segmented look as the torso has. A bit akin to the lorica segmentata. Another issue is if there should be any tassets or not.

>>97923512
NTA but is having own hobby space aka workshop so popular among US people? Because each time I see someone mentioning that, in 90% cases it turns out it's some US poster that can actually set up workshop in basement or similar location. Personally I have only my own desk in my own room for that and I'm still lucky as many others have to set in kitchen or similar, often at odds with their wives.

>>97917687
Which model is that? 3d printed?

Okay, this probably IS a stupid question but - do I actually need casting box for Blue Stuff or similar solution?

I'm currently trying to get back to such casting and figuring out how to get around problems I encountered last time, mostly related to two points - each and every single copy being slightly bigger than original (could be related to amount of material I put in mold but I tend to fill them only to their edges, leaving very small amount between molds to let them connect) and each mold always being somehow too big to fit casting box made out of Lego blocks, despite using very same construction each time. I suspect that I might deform the box due to pressure from pressing block but I lack enough Lego blocks to make bigger or thicker walls that could counter that (and cannot really buy some cheap replacements due to complete lack of Chinese copies because "uga buga bad Chinese trying to overflown our market! Ban Chinese sellers!"). Yet I see people on YT using BS just normally, without any boxes and getting good results. I'm puzzled.

>>97923554
>NTA but is having own hobby space aka workshop so popular among US people?
No clue, I'm in the EU.

>>97923554
Americans are notably wealthier than the rest of the world. The rest of the world doesn't seem to understand this. The whole 'everybody lives in a shoebox apartment', while it is a thing in some places, most people live in large detached homes with extra rooms here.

>>97923748
>most people live in large detached homes with extra rooms here.
No, that is not the north american standard. Spartment living vastly outnumbers private homes in the ypunger than 50 demographics.

>>97923748
>Americans are notably wealthier than the rest of the world.
Americans earn more but have a much higher cost of living.

>>97923803
While that is true, scale modelling and wargaming is still a rather white, and rather middle class+ hobby. So chances are, whoever is doing this for a hobby, also has a decent job.

>>97923887
I can't help but think you're either not from or even in north america, and/or you last went outside 30 years ago.

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not having much joy locking down a colour scheme for my new elfs

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>>97920246
I don't get it am I not understanding this color ball? I thought if you're starting at dark red-purple and want a brighter color you have to add a more saturated red to get to a brighter and more red color. wouldn't adding yellow shift you towards brown?

>>97923927
Looks like you already firmly decided on trans flag

>>97923983
Go back, brainrotted retard.

>>97923983
>teal and burgundy
>trans flag colors
colorblind AND brainrotted

>>97923986
I'm already on 4chan, redditard.

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>>97923983
you colour blind, bro?

>>97923993
>>>/40kg/
>>>/lgbt/

>>97923986
>>97923991
>>97923995
don't fall for bait this obvious, come on

>>97924002
>I was just pretending to be retarded

>>97923995
That's your colour scheme. being a few points plus or minus on the hex chart is a sad attempt at deniability. If being called out for troon flagging yoyr elves is a bother, you should go for something radically different, otherwise just grin and bear it.

>>97924022
To a chaser everything looks like a tranny (flag)

>>97924049
Cope harder.

>>97923829
not when it comes to housing. yuropoors make fun of americans for living in wooden houses, but outside of places like jew york city living space per square foot is cheaper here than anywhere else.

>>97924125
Wooden houses suck, but at least you can afford one.

>>97923283
Thanks! Much faster than the imperials I did before. The ships are Red Arsenal's Tink Mausoleum fleet.

>>97924125
>jew york city
I wish to tell you that last week I browsed an apartment with a $6,759/mo rent, just to see.

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>>97915988
hey bakersan, i updated the thing (it should auto-update i think)

you can now add external images, zoom and pan and change the size of the canvas, both the size and the background color are saved for next sessions

the zoom is an illusion tho, it can zoom more than 1:1 without pixelation, so you may not need to set a very big canvas and then reduce it as you would do in paint or whatever, you can just set it to the final size and zoom in when needed

give it a spin and let me know what you think

>https://greasyfork.org/en/scripts/572499-baker-companion

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2 more to go, I have some mistakes I have to fix on them once I've finished the unit, but it's good pace for now.

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Does this read as metallic or should i just kms already?

>>97924454
I think it looks really good anon.

>>97924454
I think its good for now. Once you get the rest of the mini going you'll have a better idea if you need brighter highlights or deeper shadows since you'll have the context for it.

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How are Reaper's paints?

>>97924748
Used to be great, but "remastered" makes me concerned. The only thing I didn't like in the old ones was the anti-clogging tips clogging constantly.

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Got a bunch of stuff done on next Ganger tonight, mostly fun stuff and metallics left to go.

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>>97915988
I'm nervous for no reason, /wip/

Should I aerosol prime this valkyrie, or should I re-,learn how to airbrush and prime it that way?

>>97924748
Not bad, like every brand some of the colors suck but as a whole they've got no real problems
I don't much like their metallics though, too clumpy

>>97924748
They've dropped the triads?

>>97924748
They're very inconsistent in my experience, comes with them mixing paints per order
I've gotten the same paint a few times and it's had slightly different hues each time, very frustrating

>>97924908
how are you going to paint it after the primer? with a brush?

>>97924897
Would.

>>97924992
I haven't quite decided yet. I've got some kind of hang up were I can't get myself tk just nut up and paint. I think I'm just reaching out to get a push in one direction or the other.

>>97925006
painting all that with a brush seems like a pain, use the airbush and while you are at it prime it with the airbrush too

>>97925026
Thanks, Anon. I'll try to post once I get closer to finished.

>>97924908
Rattlecan primers are typically more durable than airbrush, so 2bh unless you have some reason in mind where you'd need to use an airbrush (shit weather etc) Id just use the former, especially for gaming pieces

>>97924776
>>97924955
>>97924978
Thanks for the info, I'll just stick to tried and true Vallejo then as Reaper isn't really offering a better deal.

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>>97922988
Here's mine

Why is red so fucking annoying to paint? It just took me a minimum of 3 coats to get opaque coverage over a black primer. Is it just Khorne red is that weak or is it red in general?

>>97925309
why do people insist on using black primer and then complain when it makes things more difficult?

>>97925309
Paint red over brown or purple depending on whether you want a warm or cool red you donut

>>97924748
I really liked some of their colors but the "new" paints advertised in their kickstarter have me wary. Also they discontinued my favorite color from their range.

>>97925264
>all the weaponry in place
>even the smoke launchers correctly positioned
>extra armor
Blessed.

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>>97924393

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Rust done, dust next.

>>97924897
Nice job on the breast skin leading down from the neck. Good detail catching the different shades of flesh on the collar bone.

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>>97922897
>em dash

>>97925736
Nobody cared about em dashes until AI used it and people told you to be mad about it.

>>97925332
Flat Grey Primer gang gang gang

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Hey folks, I have a question about varnishing and wondering if anyone else here tried an ide out.

I’m starting work on some Ork Warbikers and while the model is a bit older, it has still been fun to put together (so many customization sprues!). One issue I am running into is that it doesn’t play well with sub-assembly. A lot of the pieces simply need to be attached to one another to establish the foundation of the model. That isn’t a problem, but due to its size and tiny details, I worry about paint/primer accidentally rubbing off when I’m working on it.

I was curious if anyone had experience with doing a matte varnish either immediately after the primer or on top of the base coat before applying highlights, shadows and so on. Typically I apply a light coating at the very end, but I’m wondering if doing so early (along with wearing surgical gloves) could help prevent any accidental smearing. I’m a dry-handed lad, but accidents do happen when applying three levels of highlights.

What do I use to fix pigments without losing the dusty look
People at my LGS said they would adhere fine without anything but the pigment is just rubbing off the feet of my model with the lightest contact

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>>97925747
Dark neutral grey my beloved.

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How bad of an idea would it be to use contrast/speedpaints to paint up Gallowdark? I'm tempted to give the whole terrain set a zenithal highlight and thought "oh speed paints will probably contrast better than normal paints right" but also I'm painting qhole ass fucking walls not soldiermen.

>newfag
What mini should I paint first?

Should I go ahead and paypig for an airbrush, or just start without one?

>>97925835
If you don't get the result you want, you can always just spend anohter $127 (or paint strip but we all know we'd rather just fork moar cash to geedubz)

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>>97925842
Your first model, sir.

>>97925846
>weapons sold separately
Fucking lmao. Might as well milk the paypigs a little I guess.
I'd rather buy a resin printer and still have $2000 left over though.

>>97925842
Don't bother with an airbrush right away.
Do you like the games workshop/warhammer models or are you interested in other things?
whatever game/system/one-off-models you like, pick a set of a few minis that you can low-investment in and just expect to kind of screw up some (you can only screw up so bad really), those models should be as simple as you can get within the range you like, Ideally something where if you look at it you can break it down to 3, maybe even 2 surface materials. A space marine is an obvious example, but not all ranges have the option for that. Look at larger Age of Sigmar models for the opposite of what I mean.
Additionally pick 1 cool model like a hero character or something that really gets your goat and can be a bit more complex that you'd be excited to spend a bit more time on. Screw around on the simple models, and then once you've figured out stuff give the cool one a shot.
Also when you buy paints for the first time, buy them based on the materials you know you are going to be painting, and white and black, that's obvious, but also get a set of colours that just covers most of the main color wheel colors. It's annoying to get all set up and then be like "Fuck, I don't have green because I bought paints for ultramarines, but I wanted to paint grass on my base". You can go a long way with mixing but it can be a pain sometimes and it's easier to just have the major bases covered.

>>97925842
>What mini should I paint first?
The mini you built first, of course.
Start with brushes. Airbrushes are good and all, but ultimately an advanced tool that isn't really necessary.

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Selective coats of Storm Shield in a few places to protect what's underneath (and tone down some of the shine!), and I'm calling this lad done. Now I need to get back to the Bladeguard Veterans he's supposed to be leading!

>>97924393
>give it a spin and let me know what you think
Thank you, anon. The previous version of the app really saved my bacon for this thread. I will test the new one out as we approach page 10 this time.

>>97925842
>What mini should I paint first?
Get the demo Infernus Marine from your local Warhammer store. It's free, and if the manager has enough time, he'll give you a free painting lesson.

Additionally, this model is unique - not included in any other kit - and I predict he will disappear soon, replaced by yet another Intercessor with a bolt rifle when 11th Edition gets here in June.

>>97925846
>>97925891
>Sold out
Want one? Drop me a line. The Citadel keeps advertising whenever another load of resin arrives from Bongland. I'm sure they have *something!*

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>>97925903
Thanks anon. Yeah I'm interested in warhammer models. Other stuff too but I'm mainly looking at warhammer right now.
The main thing is that I'm afraid of buying a box set that I like and then fucking it all up. I just want something relatively simple to practice on. Maybe like a necron warrior or a space marine.

>>97925964
>demo Infernus Marine
Didn't know this was a thing, that seems perfect

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>>97925982
>Didn't know this was a thing, that seems perfect
The first hit is always free. That's how they getcha.

Here in Burgerland, almost all of the Warhammer stores have but a single full-time employee who also serves as its manager. It's in their best interest to get people coming into their store, getting interested in Warhammer, and buying things (not just models, but also paint, brushes, boxed games, roolz, etc.). A simple painting lesson showing you how easy the basics can be is usually a good start and, like I said, if you pick the Space Marine, it nets you an exclusive model.

Last weekend, as busy as the new Arlington, Texas store was on its opening day (a time when the neophyte manager can expect help from corporate in the form of veteran store operators and openers), I saw somebody new getting a paint lesson amidst the chaos.

>>97919418
Yup, the Vampire Counts Black Coach, it's pretty intimidating

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>>97925645
1/3

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>>97926091
2/3

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>>97926097
3/3
All done and dusted.

>>97926102
well done, Anon

>>97926091
>>97926097
why does the black paint on these look less car-like than the original paint that came on the toys?

>>97924280
I don't understand how you could walk into a building like that and not attempt to burn it to the ground, just to punish the person who thought that was acceptable.

>>97926091
>>97926097
>>97926102
Cool cars. Do they make a narrative based gaslands, kind of like how chainmail was?

>>97924897
Great hazard stripes

>>97925750
Sometimes I apply gloss coat before doing other effects with enamels or oils. I've heard it described as creating a save state for your paint job, which feels apt.

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Any idea what paints were used here?

>>97926358
Blue, prurple, pink, red, orange and yellow.
Oh, also black and white.
You're welcome :)

>>97926508
upboated

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>>97926358
You create a series of gradients by mixing up your base tones with black/white in varying amounts. In some places, like the legs, you glaze on top of it to create the lighting effect. It really just comes down to the techniques rather than any specific paint. Here's also a guide for doing gems.

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>>97916087
Need more buds

>>97916087
>>97926634
Can I have the paint recipes for the lightest and slightly tanned skin tones please?
What paints did you use for the darker brown skinned ones?
I like that shade of brown.
Would paint the skin of scantily clad Kingdom Death Monster Pinup inspired minis animu figures in that shade of brown.
Then put them each in their own jars.

>>97925750
Unless its rattlecan or enamel airbrush primer I've found most normal acrylic primers can get worn down to bare plastic on edges when overhandling during painting. Acrylic varnishes aren't any stronger than acrylic primers are. Don't think it would change much other than being another thin layer of wear before the primer. Go rattle or an enamel like Mr Hobby. Now you will just wear it down to the primer instead of bare plastic.
Gloves will help as will a good painting handle. Best way to avoid the wear is just avoiding touching it.
Recommend getting an Enamel varnish for final coat if you plan on playing with the mini's

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>>97926649
I didnt really have a set gradient but here's every paint on my palette for all of these.
The light skin tones were usually
Bugmans Glow > Kislev flesh > Vallejo light flesh
And medium skin tones same with Cadian flesh or vallejo basic tone before Kislev.
And reikland flesh shade doing a lot of the heavy lifting on any of the Caucasian skin.
Dark skin was a mix of catchan flesh with the above paints, mostly bugmans glow, and shaded with Agrax.
Godspeed gooner anon

>>97925145
>tried and true Vallejo
No longer a thing since Vallejo overhauled their line, unless you already know what to expect from the new one and accept it.

>>97926672
what about pledge floor shine?

>>97925458
>Also they discontinued my favorite color from their range.
So that's why I couldn't find my favorites. Time to stock up on the old ones I guess.

>>97926812
Vallejo is still top tier.
Cope, seethe, and dilate.

>>97926902
nta but its really not, their new formula sucks dick

>>97926955
not really, but whatever makes you feel better lil bro
>muh bubbles
only if you mix the paint like a fucking retard

>>97927013
nuvallejo
>clogs my airbrush
>chips way easier
>seperates on a wet palette way faster
than any other brand I've tried. Plus it thins kinda weirdly with water, the consistency is different than with other paints I've used but I guess that's preference. Still perfectly usable but absolutely not what I'd consider top tier when PA, AK and TTC exist but feel free to keep coping

>>97926716
>bugmans glow
my man
bg truly is the greatest base colour for skin

>>97926902
>no arguments except memewords
I've tried nu-Vallejo and accept your concession.

>>97927013
>PA, [...] and TTC
ProAcryl and... what's TTC?

>>97927277
you quoted the wrong anon but it means Two Thin Coats.
Its the brand Duncan made.

I've only seen absolute shitters whine about Vallejo.
If you have to say something bad about a brand at least have the gall to post one of your paintjobs to prove your opinion is worth a damn.

>>97927319
Right, thanks for answering nevertheless.

Anyone have a Dremel recommendation? I feel like I've hit the limit of clippers. I want a clean cut

>spend four straight hours painting
>only use two colors

fug

>>97927368
That means you're not a shitter.
Could we see the fruits of the aforementioned painted session?

>>97927368
Hey, nothing wrong with painting en grisaille.

>>97927367
>I feel like I've hit the limit of clippers. I want a clean cut
A clean cut of what, exacty? Because if you mean plastic, dremel's gonna melt it even on the lowest setting.

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WIP blood angel comission (sm combat patrol + balistus dreadnaught)

Imma add decals and i gotta figure out something else to make him pop a bit more

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>>97927373
It's a Questoris, there's a few odd things to figure on the go on top of a lot of parts. Things like cables come to mind.

>not a shitter

Doubt it, my attempts to thin down paint for airbrushing is spotty as all hell when trying to do it from the cup. VMC Pale Sand despite being a 'magic paint' for some seems kinda tricky for brush application, each of these toes has had two coats. Will another pass on it and black later after the next metallic pass, as I've still to do the heraldry with some masking tape.

>>97927321
>demanding models without posting yours
sure sounds like something a shitter would do lmao

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>>97927386
Hmmm interesting. Specifically this time, I'm trying make some thick planks with angled sides, so I shaved a few of the biggest sprews I had, and glued them together but when I try to cut them with clippers, the deformation of the plastic always pops 1/3 off and I have to glue it back in. Im looking for a way to cut relatively thick plastic cleanly

>>97927481
Good nippers, better yet, a good saw.

>>97927481
look into serrated hobby knife blades

>>97927491
What kind of saw?

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More work done on the razers. Just gotta do the eyes and then a final smoothing layer of the skin. After that it's on to the bases.

>>97927511
You can buy a cheap razor saws, every scale model store should have them. Very cheap, but break easily and using them can be a bit of pain. But they can make fairly clean cuts. Or you can go fancier and buy something like DSPIAE hand saw, which is imo, fantastic.

>>97927386
>>97927491
>>97927505
>>97927526
Thanks a lot, anons. I am still curious though, none of you guys use little Dremel saws? They just melt the plastic? I had all kinds of ideas about cutting little polygons out of solid pieces...

>>97927580
I have a dremel, but I rarely use it. For cutting exact plastic(ard) pieces, I just use the saw/clippers for small chunks, and for larger shapes, I either use knife + metal ruler or DSPIAE angle cutter

>>97927580
You can use a dremel if you want, tons of hobbyists use them for quick and dirty work. They can delete details if used improperly though, they are not nearly as precise as hand saws.

>>97927580
I do. Specifically, a third-party actual buzzsaw bit, - a straight thin metal disc with teeth, not the grinding discs which come in the official sets. It's very useful to cut both plastic and pewter, but you mentioned clean cuts and it will NOT give you one, just save you time spent cutting bigger shit. Even with a buzzsaw, a dremel will generate enough heat to start melting the plastic a little (not "turn it into a blob", just "warp and leave soft melted strands to clean"). If you want a clean cut, use a hand razor saw and sand the detail, or if you're really hardcore, ask gunpla modelers, they'll tell you way more about cutting parts cleanly than you ever wanted to know.

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>AWOO WITH ME BR- ACK!

>>97927452
>no u
Wow you sure got me there with such an amazing display of deep reasoning, very compelling.

>>97927321
Holy shit, a literal corporate simp.

>>97927321
Vallejo? More like Bubbllejo am I right???

>>97927813
skill issue, unironically

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got the Normans done! No more 10mm minis for a while. Even though I have to do the terrain.

>>97927886
How much time do you spend per mini? Did you have to slave away over each one or did you just get into the flow of it at some point?

>>97924897
Skin tutorial?

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Is edge highlighting my best bet for this guy? I like to layer but I struggle on models with big flat pieces like this guy right here.
I'm open to suggestions

>>97927395
>paying somebody else to paint your models that you're gonna play with

idk bros I could never do that. It's like paying somebody to fuck your wife.

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>>97927395
>i gotta figure out something else to make him pop a bit more
Hazard stripes on the power fist cowling.

>>97928097
Nurgle models take to volumetrics pretty well, I'd go for some volumetric highlights and shading on that armour and those muscles.

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Going to buy the eldritch raiders battleforce this weekend even though they're bad lol. Think this color scheme is too bland/dark?

>>97928171
Looks good to my eyes, though the magenta could go a bit brighter imo.

>>97928171
Only a queer would think this "bland"

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is it true that it's a myth metallics will ruin real hair brushes

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>>97928171
why does he have a duel disk

>>97928211
It's not like they'll immediately slice through the whole thing like some anime sword trick, but it will cause the brush to lose its shape and wear out more quickly than if you'd only used it for 'regular' paints. Really just comes down to how frugal you want to be with your spending on nice brushes