>>11758607
I have a resin and fdm printer but have never printed a figure before because it feels like too much stuff to assemble and paint that ultimately won't be very durable. I like printing dios and props but they take up so much space. Kinda the reason I don't print much anymore because I just don't have space to keep all that stuff

>>11758841
Damn, you could have easily build dioramas traditionally out of wood or foam and learned a new skill but instead spent a hefty sum for a glorified paperweight that doesn't even see a return on investment. Computer has to do everything for your kind these days huh?

>>11758607
I got into resin printing a few years ago and made a bunch of things and while painting them life got in the way and the craft room has been practical abandoned for the last 3 years.

>>11758842
Are you trying to make a generational argument in /toy/ of all places? A place where most of the posters are older gentleman with disposable incomes. The chances of the guy you are talking to being the same age or older than you is pretty damn high. And you think the kids these days insult flies here?

Also if you learned to read that anon is talking about making figma joints. Would you like to demonstrate how to make those out of foam and wood since you are so skilled?

>>11758842
I know this is bait but whatever. I’ve made dios from raw materials too like I made some Mos Eisley buildings with foam and wall spackle. They probably look better and more realistic than what you could 3D print. But for some things you want to have a cleaner and more precise quality like Death Star walls which would look sharper 3D printed than made with foam or whatever. And both accomplish the same thing so not sure why one is a paper weight but the other isn’t but I suppose that’s just retarded baitposter lack of logic.

>>11759335
>And both accomplish the same thing so not sure why one is a paper weight but the other isn’t but I suppose that’s just retarded baitposter lack of logic
Oh I guess you meant the printer is a paperweight. Well again no because it produces things of value. As for return on investment, it’s actually cheaper in long run to print yourself than buy prints from Etsy or wherever. I’ve also made money from designs I made myself which I needed the printer to test.

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>>11758607
I got Bambu H2D a couple of months ago, and it's such a blast. Ability to bring stuff from your screen to reality is extremely satisfying. Currently I'm working on vehicles to ugrade my Metal Slug display. Want to get resin printer in the future too, as I plan to make detailed shelf dios for each large line of figs I have.

3D printer wont completely replace styrofoam and such, just enchance it. Doors, vases, furniture they can all be printed in perfect quality.

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>>11758607
3D printing sounds like the PC gaming of toys. Instead of just saving money buying toys the traditional way, I have to look at parts or builds of machines that probably dont do what I need. Then I end up printing things that don't work out and have to throw those away. I really want to get into it though, so I can print simple accessories at least

>>11759679
That's where you ask in threads like these for pointers and beginners' advice. I think /3/ also has a 3D printing thread up most of the time, so there's another area on here to check. There's also a shit-ton of tutorials online (if you don't mind some foreign accents). As for the daunting trial and error, remember that the cost of a spool of filament for FDM is usually around $30-$40 on amazon, and said spool can make a shit ton of little things like figure accessories and a figure's worth of plastic multiple times. If you've got the cash down the road, there are also filament melters that you can chuck your failed pieces into and they'll repurpose it into filament again.

3D designing is also something with lots of tutorials and sites to look up advice on (including the /customs/ thread). If you can design but lack a printer there are sites and private 3DPrinting folks who will print your STLs for a charge too.

>>11759704
why is it theres so many guides out there and support and tutorials yet nothing ever seems to ha e a long lasting plastic quality like an old 80s toys? Even heman toys dont fall apart like so many3D printed crap does

>>11759704
>filament melters
This is what I needed to hear also. But now im thinking about the quality of what i make since they can be melted, and also how toys already come with a bunch of accessories i never use.

>>11759752
>like so many3D printed crap does
ESL much?

>>11759771
what matters is 3d printed sloppa is seen as crap at a convention no one wants to buy because its all the same fragile, low quality shit

>>11759784
>fragile

/gunpla/ thread says hi.

What is the best resin printer for figs? And best resin?

>>11759784
>all the same fragile, low quality shit
I dunno, this board seems to feel a toy is inferior if it isn't fragile and low quality. Something robust enough to be played with is proof of ham hands and thus morally inferior.

>>11759957
I'd recommend an Elegoo Mars 5 Ultra as a starter printer. For resin I would highly recommend Resione's tough resins; Tough 74 or TH-BJD (same stuff but fleshtone instead of grey).

>>11759784
Garage kit figures sell for hundreds of dollars. Why so much seethe over something you can easily ignore and not care about instead? Did 3D printing hurt you in some way?

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>>11760002
This. I love my Mars 05 Ultra. Cleanup is kind of a pain but the results are amazing.
Don't waste your time with PLA, those layer lines are a joke.

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>>11758607
I have 2 printers, a Prusa Mk3 and an XL. I don't really use it for highly detailed things like figures. I use it for larger things.

It's a work in progress though so please excuse how derpy the mask looks. I need to attach it better to the hat.

It seems like the current consensus is filament for large diorama and costume peices. You just have to be ready to put in a lot of time sanding and painting if you want then smooth. Like a lot.

And resin for small detailed bits or figures.

We have one recommendation for resin, what is the suggestion for filament for doing large background peices?

>>11761378
>You just have to be ready to put in a lot of time sanding and painting if you want then smooth. Like a lot.
That isn't correct. Please see my post here, of which none of what is visible has been sanded at all: >>11761355

As for filament, I like Prusament because of the quality, but it is expensive.

>>11761378
>>11761389
Oh also none of it is painted either. I print in multiple colors at once.

>>11761389
The Prusa Mk3 and an XL really prints that smoothly? All my friends that got 3 printers, it feels like they spend forever trying to get rid of that print lines/grain

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>>11761403
It depends on how worried you are about lines. Here is the head crest I printed. Unless you're looking really close or are in bright lights, you can't tell.

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Another example, ignore the part where it failed. Failure is one of the big issues with 3d printing. I've printed so many...

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I won't say it doesn't take effort, this is a bad example, but you really can't even see these lines if you are in neutral lighting.

All three of these were printed with the MK3. The XL is a LOT better. I used the MK3 with the Multi Material Unit for a couple years and pushed it to it's limit. The XL is miles ahead in terms of printing with multiple colors and materials.

With printers that only have 1 print head, the only way you can swap colors is to physically remove the filament, insert the next color, and then spit out enough that the old filament gets purged. That's how the MMU on the MK3 works. It takes a LONG time because it's doing up to 5 swaps a layer, and each swap has to have about 15 seconds of purging.

The XL is different. It has up to 5 print heads. When you finish with a color on a layer, it physically lets go of one print head and grabs the next one. Much less purging, much faster. It still takes time, but for someone like me with basically parkinsons hands, it saves me having to pay someone to paint it. I think the end result looks good for cosplay.

>>11761403
So basically, the more advanced and new the printer is, the less likely you're gonna have to fight lines. I find the XL to be very good, but it also costs several thousand dollars to get a 5 head. Also I had them assemble it and send it to me, meaning it was pretty much calibrated from the get go.

Printing is an art though. We aren't at the stage of being able to treat it like an ink jet printer. You should have some knowledge of how the thing works before trying to print, otherwise you can get in trouble and not know how to fix it.

Anyone got more examples of their work?

Guides you used?

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>>11761628
I'm doing the tall tank from Metal Slug in 1/12 scale, articulated, all in FDM (so far). Just printed the exhausts. If you look close enough with proper sharp light you will always see some layer lines. FDM aslo leaves ugly looking seam in some cases.

My plan is to print hulls of bigger vehicles in FDM and then use resin for all their little details. Doing some prototypes before I get my hands on a resin printer.
>Guides you used?
I got a Bambu H2D, for me it was just plug and play. I use Bambu's filaments so they are all pre-dialled. So far had no issues, but I dry my rolls form time to time before use.

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>>11761693
Pinted those for a present too. You can see some printing layers on the black eyes. But all of this was done using standard 0.4mm nozzle. Haven't tested the high quality 0.2mm one yet.

>>11761708
I learned to not spazz out at mass-produced imperfections in toys as a kid (seams, not-perfect but not horrific paint apps, etc) and as an adult I learned to do the same with collector-tier figures (again, as long as it's not god-awful QC), so I'm not turned off by stepping at this level. I'm saving to get a Bambu myself so this is good to see what I'll be getting for results.