File: 1987-sony-pvm-1271q-that-80s-aesthetic-v0-52p1dw0ot8ha1.jpg (375.5 KB)
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Showing all 157 replies.
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>>12616313
Is this distinction between PVMs and consumer tvs a US thing? I know your consumer TVs had a third vibe about them. But over in Europe, the typical late era consumer CRT tv is pretty much as good as a PVM.
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>>12616321
I'm from Eastern Europe, I was little when CRTs were still the norm but I remember seeing PVMs in places like hospitals and during political events.
They were kinda small though (smaller than a regular CRT) and this can become a feature in the context of modern housing/apartment (takes up less space and less heavy maybe)
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File: 20260217_203417.jpg (2.0 MB)
>>12616339
This is my big one
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File: Courage.jpg (47.7 KB)
>>12616348
That CRT is straight out of the 60s
The fact that still works is unbelievable
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File: s-l1600.jpg (454.9 KB)
>>12616369
Judging by the IO on the back there are 2 channels for Video In, and I can only compare them from their shape to an antenna input (kinda strange since it's the worst signal we can get) What kind of adapter is needed to connect to it either Composite, S-Video or Component?
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>>12616386
>University of Miami
See this is exactly what I mean, these things were expensive and intended for professional/non consumer use. Playing games on them is silly, just get a converter/upscaler or play them on a CRT. Don't waste your money on nonsensical upcharged used things from 1994.
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>>12616396
That:
>Made in Japan
Makes the difference
It's also not that expensive as I was expecting
>>12616369
But for the science, what kind of adapter would it need to attach to it regular consumer electronics to Video IN?
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File: 1780450150572445.gif (2.1 MB)
>>12616403
>That:
>>Made in Japan
>Makes the difference
Back then a lot of the CRT's were made in Japan.
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>>12616419
Don't you actually need a TV purpose built to be compatible with 50Hz electricity? So why not just get one of those European CRT's that can do PAL and NTSC? I still think your best bet a converter or scaler for a flat screen. CRT is overrated and impractical, ignore what people say about muh authentic retro experience. I had a CRT and used to play on it, I don't particularly want to go back and the only advantage is the response time. Good luck getting that shit repaired too, these are all 20 years old at least.
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File: Pointtopoint.jpg (330.6 KB)
>>12616358
Not that anon, but a lot of CRT parts which are prone to failure (capacitors, resistors, transistors, fuses, diodes, etc) can still be replaced with newly manufactured parts, and even some more specific parts, like certain flyback transformers, can still be purchased new. The biggest problems are the tubes themselves, since they are no longer manufactured.
People are still successfully repairing TVs which predate PCBs and use point to point construction
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>>12616450
Now that looks like a Quantum Computer if I ever seen one.
I know that they're prone do imminent death due to natural reasons of usage, but it would have been a nice piece of history to own one, a professional one, when it breaks I can just keep it as door stopper
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>>12616441
Have you tried tactically hitting the device?
>>12616386
It looks like some weird bnc connection but they are flat and I don't know what they are
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File: remote_audio_app38_rca_phono_female_jack_1389716572_1024160.jpg (60.4 KB)
>>12616403
>what kind of adapter would it need to attach to it regular consumer electronics to Video IN?
Just a BNC to phono adapter.
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>>12616565
If it's a TV will have a variety of options to pillarbox, stretch, or zoom the image.
If it's a monitor like a GDM-FW900 it will have those options too, or you can adjust the screen raster manually. It's better to adjust the raster.
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>>12616631
Don't look at models. Look at what they actually are. Look at the
>current condition
This is most important. You don't want to waste your money on a CRT with so many hours on it the screen has dimmed or has burned in. This is a concern for professional grade CRTs. You don't want something that might harbor pests, or has been dropped and now has a faulty flyback.
>original quality
This is the next one. You want a CRT with a good power supply in it that won't bloom too much on bright scenes. This is
1. annoying
2. affects image quality in the brightest portions of the image
This means avoiding brands that are the cheapest no-name brands that cut corners during manufacturing.
However, every CRT has some level of blooming and automatic brightness limiting. On extremely bright scenes you should see it kick in. If it doesn't, that means it's either a very old CRT or it's not of good quality.
>Screen size
If I had to pick between a 19" composite-only television and a 12" RGB PVM I'd pick the 19" composite CRT every time. For comfortable gaming imho 19" is the lower end cutoff.
I would consider the 21"-27" sizes the "golden range" for an even better experience.
If you have the room, there is little reason to not go as big as possible with the 32" and larger units as long as you consider the previous concepts beforehand. Avoid rear projection CRT televisions until you're extremely well acquainted with normal CRTs.
>screen type
This doesn't actually matter that much. Shadow Mask/Aperture Grille/Dot Mask are all completely fine for all purposes. Just get a good CRT regardless of the screen mask type.
>inputs
This isn't as important as you think it is. It's great to have component or rgb, but screen size and condition are much more important. Even RF is a consideration if everything else about the CRT seems a match for your needs.
>dot pitch/slot pitch
Don't worry about this.
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File: 20260518_201349(1).jpg (1.0 MB)
I've adjusted my screens geometry as best as I could through the service menu but I still cant get straight lines on things like message boxes or black bars in mode 7 scenes, there's always a bit of distortion.
its not noticeable in most content so i live with it and enjoy the tv very much because its great otherwise but im curious about what's causing it.
its a toshiba 14af45.
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>>12616652
This affect should be less apparent with lower brightness, I mean the distortion itself won't be as strong. You can also scale the picture up so that the edges are cut off slightly, this was very common back then and developers didn't put important stuff on the edges of the picture.
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>>12616330
>>12616319
this the go to for N64 and Wii? I ask cause my local savers has a decent LCd with component and S-video I thought about picking up
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>>12616325
Cope. Panasonic, Ikegami and JVC also had their own versions of "pro video monitors". So what if Sony came up with the name/abbreviation?
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>>12616403
>>12616410
I even have a ViewSonic (American company) PC CRT monitor from the year 2000 that was made in Japan. Maybe they rebadged stuff like how some Dell CRTs had the Trinitron label.
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>>12616724
No difference at all unless the console was sending an interlaced signal, which is rare. If you are sending a 224/240p signal at 60hz then line doubling to 448/480p at 60hz will result in the same level of flicker.
going from 480i to 480p will have a minor psychological effect of seeming less flickery even though the screen is still refreshing 60 times a second regardless.
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File: CVM-1900.jpg (1.3 MB)
Sony made a line-up of monitors called CVM.
They are almost identical to the PVM lineup but usually lack the RGB inputs. They have TV tuners in them.
They're still of very high quality.
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>>12616779
yeah ive noticed the distortion fades away as the screen does during blackouts and transitions
>>12616876
i just have it reduced to the point of not having the hud cut off in games
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>>12616949
>yeah ive noticed the distortion fades away as the screen does during blackouts and transitions
This is what I warned about in >>12616639
You're probably at the limit of quality for that CRT, and the factor settings probably used an aggressive amount of overscan. I don't think it's a capacitor issue. It's just how the CRT is.
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>>12616369
On the other hand, for unserious gaming, 9 inches is enough
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>>12616967
>>12616879
That amount of noise is normal for a composite video cable displaying that test pattern.
Nothin' wrong with your CRT or cables.
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>>12616652
Geometry like that is fairly typical of a flat screen TV. The sides generally suffer a fair bit, you can improve it but it's going to take some electrical know how - if I were you I'd actually just scan the sides out and accept some cut off. Knock the contrast and brightness down a fair whack, play in the dark and that won't be too much of an issue. You can see it in your picture where the top half is blooming outwards, which is causing that bowing.
From that pic I think you've got a pretty decent telly tho, your minimap looks nice and square, so your corner geometry is actually pretty solid for a flat screen.
>>12616313
>Did you guys get the chance to find any of these for sale at a decent price today?
I refuse to pay the prices people are charging for these things unless the unit has been serviced and calibrated. The photos I've seen posted around of 14"ers for sale around my area have been disgusting - convergence issues warped geometry the fullshebang - but they want insane money for them just because they are PVMs.
I don't understand why people suck these things off so hard unless they are the massive 21"ers. If I ever got one of those I'd consider myself incredibly lucky. No 800TVL count 14" PVM is worth the money I've seen charged for them. What's the point in spending all that money for something that tiny?
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File: 1777539636063531.jpg (326.8 KB)
>>12617105
I think your mistaking Anon's problem with dot crawl
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>>12617107
It does if the signal is noisy.
>>12617130
I'm not.
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File: Poverty_gaming.jpg (1.4 MB)
>>12616313
Here's a video that emphasizes why you'd want the BVMs for your professional use: https://youtu.be/WbUGcCyai90
I live in the middle of nowhere, so there are no PVM/BVM monitors available within a 100km radius. There was one Craigslist posting a couple years ago featuring a medical PVM which I wanted, but the seller was so offended I tried bargaining for $100USD less that they raised the price over $200USD of their asking price and yet still sold away from me. They are that high in demand, as it has been dry here for years.
Here is my setup, but I don't recommend the brand as no one has the knowledge nor ability to RGB mod it. I would recommend you go for more popular brands with widely available schematics such that RGB mods could easily be made.
Just know that the price for the professional monitors are not for mere mortals like me, and only reserved for the masters of the universe. One day, I hope to have enough for a place so I can house some PVM/BVM monitors to play my games.
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File: IMG_6260.jpg (378.0 KB)
>>12616808
I'm definitely a fan for Wii. SHARP models are typically awesome. I'd pick up a cheap set with S-Video and Component to try out for sure. Not every 15khz LCD will support 240p, but the ones that do actually look pretty damn good. Not a great example pic, but basically no lag.
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>>12616313
PVMs are the worst displays for retro games. Retro games were designed with the artifacts you get from consumer CRTs in mind. With a PVM you get none of the artifacts and you might as well just be using a cheap LCD. PVMs are for consoom brained performative morons.
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>>12618040
>artifacts you get from consumer CRTs in mind
You're misusing words to fake knowledge you don't have.
Which 'artifacts' do you get from a consumer CRT that happens to have RGB output? Enlighten me.
Cables =/= displays.
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>>12618040
Pro monitors are typically built well and display a good picture, regardless of the input type. That said, they were an easy choice when prices topped out at maybe a few hundred 10+ years ago, nowadays I would definitely say that, unless you are rich, they are not worth paying a huge premium for, and you're better off getting a regular consumer set, either one with RGB or moddable for RGB, if you want that option.
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