Thread #259470
File: Tokyo Terrain.png (1.1 MB)
1.1 MB PNG
~~Tokyo Climbing Edition~~
>Where do I start?
People typically start in the gym and branch off outdoors and find their niche, be it bouldering, trad, sport or a mixture of the above. Some never leave the gym at all. Ultimately it doesn't matter - just get started and enjoy yourself.
>How fit do I have to be to start? Do I have to be able to do x amount of pull-ups?
Being light, strong and flexible helps at the higher levels but climbing is open to almost anyone and is fairly intuitive to most. Even if your body is feeble and weak now, you will develop strength over time by virtue of just climbing. Climbing is a holistic sport and success often hinges upon many factors, not just strength and power, but having these qualities definitely helps when you breach into the higher grades.
>What shoes do I buy?
If you're starting out in the gym, don't worry too much: get some snug shoes without dead space that don't cause you lasting pain. Some people (such as the famed shoe designer Heinz Mariacher) recommend wearing soft shoes when you're starting out -- this makes sense since your footwork will probably suck and the increased feedback will pay dividends over time. You really don't need fancy expensive shoes when you're starting out, but certain shoe properties help send harder problems (e.g. stiff shoes for standing on tiny granite edges or soft shoes for sandstone/gritstone smears).
Here are some useful resources for sizing:
>https://sizesquirrel.com/
>https://rockrun.com/blogs/the-flash-rock-run-blog/rock-climbing-shoe- sizing-guide
>Do I need Magdust/Rugne Gear?
No, most chalk you find will be good. Mammut is older, cheaper, and as reliable as they come.
>Do I need to start hangboarding?
Hangboarding is a tool used to improve climbing, but you likely won't *need* it until you've climbed for 2-3 years. Even that's generous. Just climb.
Old Thread:
>>243692
21 RepliesView Thread
>>
Recently found out that if the skin on your fingers grows thicker, it sweats less (until it wears back down again). I started using some hand serum that supposedly makes your skin grow faster, and after a week it seems to be doing something, just barely.
>>
>>258766
Wanted to follow up. Why every ten days? Any reason or just vibes? My routine is every two weeks, but in April I want to do twice a week, Mondays and Fridays. Yesterday I did 3 sets of 5 seconds, Friday I will do 4 sets of 5 seconds, then Monday I'll do 5 sets of 5 seconds. After that, I'll up the weight, between 1-2kg. Thoughts?
What's your routine like? how many sets on 20mm? 15mm? Do you train three finger drag or just half crimp? Since my last post, my max hang went up by 2.5kg, and it's been quite the fight.
>>
Trying out the hangboard meme.
I'm still certain board climbing is superior in every way but maybe it's a useful addition
>>
>>
>>259528
ROC reporting in. (Rockclimber of Color) ;)
I think it has a lot to do with cultural norms. The black community has a category for activities that seem absurd and which most blacks don't participate in. Most. These activities are referred to in jest as 'white people shit'. Rock climbing is standard WPS.
Other examples include sky diving, drawing penises on unconscious drunks, Steve Irwin type shit, and Jackass/masochist sorts of activities just to name a few.
I live in Chicago where we have a very large black community and the climbing scene remains 95% or more non-blacks. A lot of it has to do with simple exposure to the sport in an inviting way (which can be difficult for climbing since it's so painful/difficult at first).
Just keep climbing and inviting new people to check out the sport. It's been a white dominated sport since its conception, so a bit more waiting for inclusion and diversity won't hurt.
I've a dream to open up a climbing gym on the south side. Wish me luck.
>>
>>259515
Board climbing is good if you're already strong. If you're not already strong, hangboarding is a great way to get strong. I know lots of people that deadass can't even do V5 on kilterboard unless it's like a 35 degree angle, let alone a moonboard.
Usually its pro-climbers, and asshats doing this for 5-10+ years who're like, "bro just climb to get better at climbing", but those guys forget what it's like to be weak, and forget they didn't always have a board near them to train. So they reap the benefits of a training board without recognizing that they already passed the threshold to make it useful.
A proper analogy would be training for weightlifting. For the intermediate-advanced trainee, high volume programs are amazing for getting you strong. But for beginners? They're better off doing splits that have you train 3-4 days a week. In much the same way you don't give buckaroo billy the Arnold 7 day split program with 3 hour workouts each day, I don't expect the average novice to low-intermediate climber to thrive on a board that they are not physically strong enough to benefit from.
>>
>>
>>259558
>I've never tried hangboarding, what actually is it?
Training your fingers to get used to hanging on small edges.
>How do I do it?
Rant incoming, short answer is - look up a protocol, overload it over time, take it slowly.
For background, have at least 1 year climbing experience. There's a million god damn protocols. Also, most of them are unfortunately found on YouTube and reddit, in communities that have no fucking clue how to program exercises properly. You'll find many "regimens", but none of them prescribe anything beyond a basic template of how a workout should be performed. Max hangs, repeaters (3-57 ladders, or 7 on, 3 off for 5 reps), small edge hangboarding, blah. Most people don't talk about how often to do it, when to backoff, etc. Training books sometimes cover it, but climbers aren't known for reading.
Basically, just find a 20mm edge and aim to hang off it with bodyweight. If you can do that, add weight. Max hangs with 5-7 second increments work fine. Just look up random protocls and see what people do. Increase weight slowly over time, like really slowly. Every 3rd hangboard session basically. (at least that's what I do)
>Trying new stuff when I can but mostly perfecting routes I can already do.
That's fine. It's normal for progress to slow down. You can keep climbing to get strong. Nothing wrong with that. Hangboard is a supplement, not the main driver.
>How do I incorporate hangboarding/get stronger?
Just ask other anons. I didn't start hangboarding until 4 years into climbing. I was already getting through my plateau, but it made it much easier to consistently not plateau.
>>
I've accepted that I'll never be able to climb due to injuries so I treat it like a spectator sport. Hopefully there's a gym near me where I can just chill and cheer people on without being expected to actually climb myself. Bouldering is my jam, not too interested in watching people do lead but I understand all of it takes some variant of skills and physique.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>259569
I wish you the best anon, by all means go watch
my personal struggle is that I love watching other people climbing when resting between attempts but I'm always worried that women will think I'm staring at them in a creepy way vs just enjoying watching people climb. If you have a fat ass I'm looking at it though
>>
>>
>>
>>259658
I found out there's no gyms in my area at all - the nearest one that offers anything resembling a wall is more than 25km west. Kind of a shame.
I have IFSC youtube and the quality is very all over the place. Every new event either has nonstop praise for the camera/commentary or just burying it for how bad it is. Like they just ask a random person at each event to coordinate it for them instead of a dedicated editing crew.
>>
>>259658
It's impressive to watch better climbers climb. I hope everyone in the gym agrees and understand.
Just trying to understand how they climb is a big thing.
Whenever it feels like people are watching my beginner ass I get self conscious though.
>>
>>
What is the reason why certain boulder climbers will opt to not bring a chalk bag with them? Sometimes the commentators will point out that they're losing grip and trying to get some from the back of their pants but have no way to reinforce it.