Thread #2975020
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old stupid questions thread.
>>2972907
so i have this Bluetti eb240 powerbank with a dead input slot. someone previously had it jerry-rigged to a solar panel, and i want to get it hooked up to solar again.
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i reconnected the wires to the input slot and bought the appropriate input charger cable and it did not snuggly fit in the input slot and it did not charge
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3rd panel available.
which panel would be appropriate? which panel would put the lightest load on the powerbank? apparently it may also have a cooling fan that doesnt operate, so light load would probably be best
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all the panels have pretty thick neg and pos wires dangling off them.
and should i also add a fuse between powerbank wires and panel wires?
7/7
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Should I call an electrician to remove this completely? Not sure if I want to attempt removing it myself. I’d rather have lamps in this room.
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How the heck am I going to paint the wall without breaking my neck?
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Anons, any help on what a device is called or if it even exists?
I'm looking for a valve that switch flow of water from a flow pipe to a secondary pipe. When turned it would close off one and open up another. I know you can do this with two separate valves, but I'm looking for a more simple solution. It seems like it should exist but maybe I just don't know the correct name. I've tried redirect valves, diversion valves. Looking for something potable water safe.
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>>2975403
diverter valves do this but you may be looking for a 3-way ball valve.
Since they have limited use, they are a little more expensive than on/off valves..
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anyone know if just cutting this branch will deal with this fungus? Its a walnut tree and I get it in summer and notice now that this red fungus is spreading everywhere I cut it I assume its due to the saw which I already cleaned...
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why wont my repeat cycle relay timer turn on the LED?
im using this wiring diagram and the green light is steadily flipping on and off so it should be working? but the led isnt connecting
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>>2975511
the led does turn on when connected with power directly
ive tried switching the leds position to check polarity too but that doesnt seem to be the issue
with a resistor attached from the positive end to power it does turn on but the relay doesnt seem to be affecting it at all its just on constantly
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i guess i should mention that the relay doesnt make any sound when it turns on and off
with past relays ive heard some kind of click or something but with this one theres no sound
you think the IC could just be fried?
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Through poorfag magic I'm getting a brand new 1300sqft house built. I am worried about its longevity and things like mold and whatnot. For perspective I'm renting a shack built in 1910 and I'm absolutely hating it, paying 500/month for heat in the winter, constant bugs and mice getting in, decaying stone foundation, etc. How does a new build compare to this supposedly "solid" structure?
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>>2975548
I dunno shit about shit, but just to help you, I'd suggest using boracare (mix of borax and boric acid, you can google that if you want to DIY) on wood to avoid termites and as fire retardants. also, buy wood treated against humidity. should last you decades.
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>>2975616
Have you purchased additional shelves to hoard more junk synthetic no longer fit against the wall?
Is it difficult to walk anywhere in your house or garage?
Some men don't hoard their house at all and only hoard the garage.
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>>2975548
>I'm renting a shack built in 1910
The 'shack' has lasted 115 years.
>How does a new build compare to this supposedly "solid" structure?
It will be great for a few years. I doubt it will last half as long as the shack you're in.
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>>2975625
Screws and bolts, yes
I do have a stack of a bunch of heavy duty pallets in my shed I got from work. It's all 2x6 and 3/4" plywood. No human leavings of any kind.
Comics, baseball cards, guns, ammo, every video game and console I've ever owned. Hmm I do store lots of stuff in 1 gallon plastic jugs that I get for free from the chick at the gas station. I have a bunch of empty ones too
>>2975630
I already had the shelves, I got wire shelving free from the last place I worked that closed down.
Hmm no not really. The only places where there's any congestion is just because of piles of clean clothes that I don't fold but just throw down and pick clothes out of
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>>2975645
You got a problem. You're just young enough itnhasnt overwhelmed you yet.
If you work very hard and make a concerted effort to throw away shit you're not using or projects you haven't finished, you might be just a guy with stuff rather than being recognized as a hoarder.
Put your clothes in drawers and closets. It keeps rats and bugs off of them.
>but anon I don't have--
Well keep it that way. People in every developed country put their clothes up for a reason.
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I more or less have this same desk. I need a bit more space on it and that cabinet part of the hutch is in the way. I was thinking of just taking the door off and the bottom part to give me that extra space. But I was wanting to make sure that little bottom part isn't needed for any weight bearing needs. I don't think it would, but I just want to double check.
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I need to replace an headphone swivel that uses a brass shaft with an e-clip to hold it in place.
My current thought is a Chicago screw. I need a flat end on both sides with minimal clearance, and the e-clip is fucking retarded and eats away at the soft shaft with axial load. I would just use a regular circlip and a steel shaft to spread the load more, but there's not a lot of room to fit a circlip on, which is probably why they went for an e-clip. I'm hoping the rotational force on the screw won't be enough to overcome some loctite.
Any better ideas? It's only about a 4mm shaft so I can't lock it with a set screw or similar. Not enough space for a shaft collar.
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>>2975701
>I'm hoping the rotational force on the screw won't be enough to overcome some loctite.
You're probably safe. The worst that would happen is it becomes loose and need re-tightening.
222-Purple is light duty
242-Blue is more aggressive
262-Red needs heat to overcome
If you have all three, start with purple. It's intended for low strength/softer metals such as aluminum and brass.
You may want to disassemble it in the future.
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Does anyone know what to do when the solder goes back out the other end when trying to remove it?
I have huffed a lot of flux and suction methods aren't working anymore.
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Is this what loctite 242 should look like, one day after applying? It's an old bottle, like 10yo, probably.
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I got an office chair, not like pic related, and one of the screws that connect the arm rest to the chair is missing. I would ignore it but I keep on swiveling it on the one pin that is keeping it to the chair and it is damaging the cushion
I don't know what brand or model my chair is. I looked and there's no identifying numbers that could tell me who made it. Maybe there is and I just missed it, who knows.
Since I don't know who made it, I can't look up the specs for the chair and know what bolt I need. What would you do in my position? Is it likely I'd find a replacement bolt at a hardware store? I know I can hypothetically go to a machinist, but if i'm spending that much money I might as well get a new computer chair
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Anyone has sny experience with these chink glues? Tried loctite superglue 3 in some pp(?) part and it didn't held at all; this pp one seem to hold, so far; pom also held well on plastic gears.
Also, how do i clean glue off aolicator on the right so that it won't dry up and clog it; thing is extremely thin.
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Does anyone know a *reliable* brand for a high output LED bulb? I'm trying to find a replacement for a 250 watt bulb I use in a handlamp (old McGill 7000 series) and every LED I've tried as eaten shit after a few weeks. The handlamp expects a standard 'bulb shaped' omnidirectional light. Do that not make high output LEDs that can take a beating? It has a wire cage so heat isn't a concern, just getting knocked around.
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>>2975799
Those applicators are one use only, that's why they come off. You can probably buy a pack of 100 for a dollar.
For glue, I've basically replaced superglue with B-7000 at this point. It's rare that I need the faster cure time, and a more flexible silicone like glue is more useful in the majority of applications.
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If I put colored dye in the toilet tank, after I flush the bowl will fill up with water of that color.
But after a few hours I will go in a see that all the color is gone and the water is clear again. I can hear very quiet dripping from somewhere inside the tank but I cant pinpoint it.
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>>2975876
maybe i didnt explain it right, I put dye in the tank part (where the flapper, flushers etc) are.When I flush, all the water in the bowl goes down and it refills with colored water, like in that pic.
If I do nothing and come back a few hours later, all the water is now clear, and there's no sign of the colored water, as if its slowly draining.
The actual level of the water in the bowl doesnt seem to go down much
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>>2975306
Breh, they make these broomstick things that thread right into the ass end of your paint roller. They’re a few bucks. Or go with a fancy telescoping one for the range.
>tfw I’m not allowed to post here anymore because I get paid to do it
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>>2975897
I'm renting so I don't really care.
I thought the apartment manager would like to know but they have a sign on the office that says they are out for the day. I'm thinking about just letting it get worse so that I can get out of my lease early. Or is it already really bad?
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>>2975900
Any leak is bad. Depends how long it has been going for and what is getting rekt by water and mold. The bubble is latex paint holding back water. Cutting the bubble and sticking a bucket under there will probably cause less damage, especially if you cut the drywall now to expose the leak, but doesn’t matter if you rent.
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Pretend I'm a dummy
I moved into this house a few months back, and shit got real cold the past couple months so I went around meticulously trying to seal every draft I could find. Things got better, especially once I figured out how to operate the chimney flue damper, BUT still not the best
The most recent thing I came upon was finding that the garage has three vents in it, similar to pic related but none of them are on outside walls. I thought aha, the furnace must be sucking in all this frigid uninsulated air and pumping that shit into my house, but when I removed the vent covers it looks like they all just lead into a crawlspace adjacent to the basement
So the question is: should I still seal these vents so the crawlspace won't vent into the garage / vice versa? I thought crawlspaces were supposed to vent to the outside
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Electronics nerds, I have a question. I need to replace the solenoid pump in my handy battery-powered electric mop contraption. The one in it is 22DCV pulling .8A so around 17-18W.
Problem is I can't find any reasonably priced. However there are many AC solenoid pumps pulling the same current. Google says as long as the current draw is the same, they are more or less interchangeable but as google tends to be, reliability is vague. Has anyone done this that can confirm?
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>>2975872
>If I put colored dye in the toilet tank, after I flush the bowl will fill up with water of that color.
The proper procedure is to flush the toilet and allow the tank to fill.
Add the dye to the tank but DO NOT FLUSH.
Wait to see if the dye gets into to bowl without flushing.
If it does, you either have a leaky flapper or the gasket between the flush valve and the tank is leaking.
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>>2975902
Making tape and paper/plastic sheets.
>>2975923
Google said something? Not "you found a website that said something after doing a google search?" I know how to fix that. Add "&udm=14" to the end of the URL after your search terms and all that hallucination bullshit goes away. You can also kick 'more' just below the search bar and click 'Web' to get the same results.
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What's the name of this tool?
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I have like 0 understanding of signals so this is probably a stupid question
I'm looking at ntsc specifics and it's talking about how the color burst is used to sync the tv to the 3.58mhz color frequency, but then it talks about how color is determined by the phase
if the phase of the color signal is constantly changing, then locally wouldn't the frequency constantly be changing? I mean, if one peak is shifted right and the next peak is shifted left, then they'd be kind of squeezed together and thus higher frequency, no?
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>>2975996
oh, wait, I think I get it, I was thinking it was like some kind of discrete thing where it sampled the color at that exact frequency but I guess it's more of a continuous system where the phase is just constantly being compared to the color burst reference
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>doesn't buy new bulbs first
They look like leds with metal plates inside so didn't know how to check without a multimeter.
The thick red wire needs to go to the battery right? for it to close the loop? It goes to the power button but then its grouped with all the lightbulb red wires.
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Would I be able to use something like https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/LarkMax24pCmb--hollyland-lark- max-2-combo-4-person-digital-wirele ss-microphone-system-2.4ghz
for live audio using the 3.5mm or usbc to XLR so I could run the 4 mics on one channel?
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>>2976009
>It goes to the power button but then its grouped with all the lightbulb red wires.
Every bulb just has its own parallel circuit. That way if any individual bulb fails, only that bulb stops being lit. If they were wired in series, any dead bulb would turn all of the bulbs off.
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>>2976085
also available in black
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>>2975907
garage venting into a crawlspace is a fire hazard, and a code violation in many cities
but also, your crawl needs to vent somewhere if it isn't encapsulated
you should prolly get it encapsulated, then plug the vents
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>>2975588
Idk if they're supposed to do that by regulations or not. I domt really get a say in anything about the new house besides where it goes and even then it comes with strings. Ill see about adding boracare when its built, thank you.
>>2975644
I don't think you truly understand what 100+ years of neglect and nigger rigging will cost. Pic related
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>>2976301
>I don't think you truly understand what 100+ years of neglect and nigger rigging will cost
Absolutely. My house is not in terrible shape, but fixing anything is a pain in the ass. Nothing is square. Doors are all odd sides. It's hard to really access anything. Everything has to be retrofitted and finding the correct connectors/adaptors is a pain the ass and usually expensive as fuck.
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>>2975020
Any professionals here?
A couple of my dad's friends are some pretty high up managers at a large factory site and said I can get a job when I complete my 510 OSHA cert.
Anyone done this and is it hard?
I'm actually pretty stupid and worried I'll fail.
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>won a contract with the Alabama Department of Corrections to make them 200 of my prison toothbrush invention
>its a wall mounted toothbrush that requires a key to remove
>sturdy handle material that does not alllow them to break it free
>this is to reduce their usage as shanks and rape devices
Alright. How do I make this bros. Right now I just have ai concept art
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>>2976400
For reference
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What software is 'industry standard' these days for interior planning/design? Personal use only, budget up to $100. No subscription. A good decade ago it was sketchup i think but maybe theres something better?
Inherited an apartment and need something that i can use to mockup the flat based on my measurements and then transfer that to some "floor plan" or something that i can show contractors without getting laughed at.
Any tips on planing stage appreciated too.
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>>2976401
Someone is definitely dying by having their face shoved into that. Maybe make it a stiff silicone.
The key should be able to accept a standard core so the jail can key it how they want.
The part that goes in the wall needs a tab for the tab on the end of the lock core to engage with. It shouldn't mess directly with the core, the cores aren't strong enough. It'd need to actuate a disk to lock the toothbrush
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Why didn't anyone tell me that pulling a snowmobile clutch sounds like a goddamn gunshot going off in your face? I watched half a dozen Youtubes and it wasn't until after i noticed everyone omitted that exact moment, ESPECIALLY the ones where they tightened the puller and poured hot water over it. Is it private mechanics joke?
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My 90s shitbox doesn't have AC, and until I can find a functioning unit, I want to DIY something to help keep me cool.
My current plan is to combine some over-seat seat beads along with a fan and a few simple ducts to force air through the beads.
my question is, should I use an axial fan or a radial fan? From what I can tell, axial fans are good for moving large quantities of air, but not necessarily large quantities of air through a region with high resistance. A radial fan can move air through areas with high resistance, but not necessarily very much air.
Since the fan is going to have to blow through both ducting and through a lattice of wooden beads, I have to assume that's going to be a decent amount of static resistance for the fan to overcome. I live in Florida so I want that air flow.
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>>2976669
>I want to DIY something to help keep me cool.
I know this is /diy/ but...
<< consider pic related
several models available - use auto seat fan and other terms for different models
https://www.amazon.com/Zone-Tech-Cooling-Seat-Cushion/dp/B0FD48189D
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Going to install my backsplash and the box says this. Can I just use the premixed AcrylPro from Home Depot.
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>>2976482
If you just need to draw up a plan view you can just do that by hand. If your angles are close to correct and your lines are proportional and your dimensions and labels are legible you're winning. Sketchup is more than good enough.
You can probably also potentially get a copy of the drawings from whatever government body handles titles where you are.
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>>2977206
>Going to install my backsplash and the box says this
>Glass Mosaic Installation Recommendations
>For all exterior and interior applications, Glass Mosaic must be installed with a Two Component
>Mortar System Consisting of a Premium Dry-Set Portland Cement Mortar mixed with 100% High
>Solid Content Liquid Latex or Acrylic, Product must exceed ANSI 118.4 requirements.
>>2977206
>Can I just use the premixed AcrylPro from Home Depot.
>must exceed ANSI 118.4 requirements
Well, does it?
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>want to set up an Ethernet cable to run from my bedroom pc to kitchen router without cutting holes in the floor/walls
>find pic rel
Is there any way I can take the old wire out of the conduit and replace it myself or should I just hire someone to do it? Looks pretty simple if it’s just one wire but I can’t seem to find the other end of it without snaking an expensive camera that I don’t have through the conduit.
The current set up is a wall plug WiFi extender that’s spotty at best.
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>>2977268
Sorry for the confusion, this opening is in my bedroom near my pc, there’s a Ethernet socket near my router in the kitchen but I have no idea whether or not this cable is connected to it. The black cable is a landline that’s no longer used.
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I have a large detached car garage that I want to epoxy it. Unfortunately, I can only do a quarter of the garage at time since I cannot move everything out of the garage.
Should I go with a garage epoxy kit that has spackle or one of those single code garage concrete paint?
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I need to apply a specific amount of grease to the evenly inside of a pipe multiple times (0.5ml accuracy). I'm currently thinking of maybe a pipette, and I guess just a plastic stick to smoosh it around in there without picking up too much like a brush or sponge would, because I can't find any grease guns that you can set up to add a specific amount per squeeze.
I know there's stuff like those PVC glue cans with a bottle on the lid, but I don't think they'd give me an even application, and I want to be able to easily clean it off every time so I'm not adding more or less depending on if it's the first pipe of the day or the 5th.
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I'm looking for a qrd on sandblaster cabinets. I'm looking at Facebook marketplace. It has a trinco sand cabinet for $400 and then someone else is selling the same exact cabinet for $1,000 but it lists as having a dust collector. I'm not too familiar with sandblasters. Can I get recommendation what I should have in a sandblaster and what accessories required?
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>>2977274
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What the proper way to drill 9mm holes on h beams/4mm thick plates?
Sometimes I have to do that at work to install vertical rails and fucking hell it's annoying. I try to go low speed high pressure but I'm just 187lb so I'm not the strongest guy. A coworker of mine that is almost 100lb heavier drills at least thrice as fast simply by leaning his bodyweight on the drill.
I wish I had one of these.
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>>2977285
If you're doing a lot of these like for sales or something you want this.
Otherwise learn to do it one handed or get syringe lever
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>>2977285
>The main thing I'm thinking of is the applicator to spread the grease anyway.
>>2977274
>I can't find any grease guns that you can set up to add a specific amount per squeeze.
>I know there's stuff like those PVC glue cans with a bottle on the lid, but I don't think they'd give me an even application, and I want to be able to easily clean it off every time so I'm not adding more or less depending on if it's the first pipe of the day or the 5th.
You literally expressed most of your concern with getting the correct amount into the pipe.
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>>2977285
>I dislike the 2 handed requirement of a syringe
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>>2977300
The second point was half and half, but that's more me saying why it isn't suitable. They make little glass pipette lids for bottles which could work with lower viscosity grease maybe, but they're kind of short so I couldn't use one to spread it and I doubt they're that accurate.
>>2977301
You want to do that on a sub 5ml application? Looks like a massive pain in the ass.
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Can someone give me a tldr on ironwork?
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Has anyone used capacitors for high pass filters before? I see some audio-based ones but don’t want to waste $15 if they’re shit/I calculate the values wrong. I can’t do anything to the signal preamp because I’m retarded and didn’t look into any of this until the mids in my homemade Bluetooth speaker sounded like shit so I bought a cheap class D amp
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>>2977342
Do I need to replace the cable if it came with the house? Would this cable support any modern connection speeds or does it not matter? If the latter I can just wire an Ethernet outlet but how much would that run me?
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>>2977435
It will say on the side of the cable in tiny writing cat5 or cat5e. That's probably 1000 mbit either way considering houses are so short.
A jack and a wallplate is like $20. There's barely enough slack to work with so you might want to go back to phone or cable box check bedroom closets for a structured media box. Also find where that wire terminates, like does it really go upstairs. Maybe you don't neednto cut into it if it does.
The house wad probably built with.cat5 to every phone jack, and they go back to a central point somewhere because ethernet wants to be point to point. Here you'd put the router in the closet and find the wire that goes upstairs or downstairs for the AP. Some old phone jack layouts in houses would be rings or chains and you'd have to pick where you want to break into that.
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is there realistically any difference between
>power strip with a 5 meter cord
>power strip with a 2 meter cord plugged into a 3 meter extension cord?
when it comes to safety and reliability?
I need to reposition some stuff away from outlets and I'd prefer the second option because there's less selection in power strips with longer cords.
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>>2977454
An extra plug adds more possibilities for high resistance. Also depends what gauge cords and what kind of loads you’re putting on it.
If it’s a small load, it doesn’t matter. Beefy 3 meter extension cord with power strip on the end is probably better than extension cord off power strip, and more pleasing to my OCD.
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>>2977454
It realistically doesn't matter. If you're running 13A loads, sure, don't do it, but as long as the downstream shit is sub 5A, it makes no difference if it's coming from an extension cord or a single appliance.
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I want to build a decently sealed cabinet with t slot extrusions and plexiglass. Where can read about the accessories I need and mount the internal table surface? Should I just get a vendor to make me everything but the plexiglass and internal table surface? I have a table saw to cut things.
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>>2977452
Okay so I bought a 5e keystone jack plug, a wall mount and a Klein impact punch down tool and wired it like so. I wasn’t able to get any connection when plugging in my pc so it’s down to either the wire itself or the connection is off from the demarc box. I can check the former with a testing tool for about $100 but do I need a different tool for the demarc box and how would I reenable connectivity from there? Or at that point do I need to call my isp?
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>>2977473
Okay so it turns out that this cable isn’t even connected to any ports in the demarc box in my garage with the exception of the blue and white blue cables. I don’t think I have nearly the tools or experience to mess around with this so I’ll have to bite the bullet and contact someone. Thanks for the help regardless.
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>>2977499
Don't ai post bro, he didn't even post pictures of two jacks
Unless he only has only two phone jacks in his whole house the picture of the demarc either proves there's a structured media box somewhere all his stuff goes to, or he has a truly cursed setup where the cable is new enough it's cat5 but they ran it in a ring.
Also he might have punched his jack backwards so the wires were cut off inside the jack, not the extra cut off the outside. He said he got a punch down tool but left spare wire hanging out the punch down somehow
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>>2977518
It's got to be actual rated building wire. I know copper is copper but I want to do things right.
I was thinking about trying to buy offcuts from electricians or suppliers. I get the feeling they would just tell me to fuck off though.
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>>2977525
Make sure they're torqued to spec. Too much and you'll break it and it won't hold, too little and it might back out with heat cycling. Just google the spec sheet of whatever you got
I have a torque screwdriver because I'm a gun nerd, but if you got a drill with a clutch it probably has an approximate torque range ijnthe manual
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Any European alternatives for Weld-on for acrylic solvent welding? I see some acrylic glues locally but they're all gap-filling, not pure solvent stuff
I found Tensol 12 but that seems only available in the UK and I doubt I'd be able to import it without issues. I tried googling the ingredients but they're used in a lots of stuff so there's a lot of noise.
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>>2977577
>for acrylic solvent welding
I've had good results using pic related.
I don't know if it's available in your country or not.
If not, perhaps a similar local product for the same use may be available there.
The SDS is here: https://edgerton.us/wp-content/uploads/2025/06/OATEY-CLEAR-PRIMER.pdf
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>>2977499
I guess but is this ai?
>>2977509
I don’t know but in the previous pic I punched down every wire within the cable, the last “cable” sticking out is the nylon chord used to strip the outer jacket. As for the demarc box that was the closest thing I could find that fit the description. This house was built in like ‘05 so maybe it’s just a cursed set up. I can’t really make any sense of it.
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>>2977611
The wires should have been cut flush woth the side. A lot of these jacks from home depot come with a little plastic tool and even that has a cutter on one side.
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>>2977611
I still think you probably gave a structured media panel in a bedroom closet or pantry near the center of the house
It's a metal or plastic panel in the wall and it's like 1x2 ft
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>>2977577
find a serious level aquarium store and ask them. at minimum they should be able to point to a tank builder that can tell you where he gets glue
a blend of mek and acetone is what you need but i have no idea the proportions
https://archive.is/tVz1q
and on a side note the faggot greenies just made weldon #3 reformulate and it cracks internally on tight fitting constrained joints
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I have an LG drier, in the area where the lint trap/mesh screen goes there's some lint/dirt/etc that got through. It's damn near impossible to get a vacuum attachment to suction it out. Would it be a good idea to take something like a hair drier or even a leaf blower to force the lint to go through the exhaust system and (hopefully) out of the house? I plan to pull the drier out and clean out the exhaust areas too with one of those flexible wire brushes
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Can I use a protected LiPO cell in a circuit that's designed for a raw/unprotected cell?
I got a cat toy with a dead battery, but all the batteries online are protected lipos, whereas the dead one that came out is a cell with no protection circuit. Will it hurt anything having two protection circuits in a row? My gut feeling is "no", because all they do is open the circuit if the voltage is way out-of-spec, so it doesn't matter if one, the other, or both does that.
But it would be nice if someone with experience has a definitive answer.
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My parents have been convinced to repipe the house and the plumbers are trying to take the lazy way out and use PEX for everything. I've expended all my talking points and need more arguments against it. My uncle's already said it was a bad idea but it's sooo much cheaper and the plumbers said it was good, so it must be true.
I may have them convinced to compromise and have all the PEX run under the house where it's accessible and less likely to cause extensive damage if it leaks and then use CPVC or something in the walls. Is that even a good idea?
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>>2977661
I forgot to mention it's a well system, which means no chlorine, but copper isn't an option. No worries about freezes, either.
I like solvent joints for everything, but it seems like it'd be much better in the walls at least. The old stuff's lasted 30+ years.
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>>2977655
There's no benefit of cpvc over pex. If you wanted some benefit in the wall then copper.
Don't listen to anon, pex is dogshit and will leak in 10-20 years. They have to keep changing the brand name and formulation because it keeps happening
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>>2977663
Chlorine is the biggest drawback in the plastic debate, anon. Copper is best but if it's not an option, pex is fine in your situation. Yeah, it has a lifespan, but so does cpvc.
Why are they even changing it?
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>>2977668
I think it's a waste of money and an unnecessary "upgrade", but some contractor broke a piece and while the plumbers were out, they found a vent pipe that had fallen (as a result of a poorly-done bathroom remodel several years ago) and needs to be replaced. Somewhere along the way, they must've scared my parents into thinking the whole system was going to fail at any time.
Good to know about the chlorine, though. I'm ensuring we stay on a well at least.
>>2977664
I think the benefit is that solvent welding makes a single pipe, whereas pex is has a lot of potential leak points. I know it's not that likely to leak, but this'll be the second time in a few years the bathroom's been torn apart and I'd really like to never have to do it again.
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>>2977053
its more important that you do the test accurately, closed windows, limited entry/egress. its questionable if radon is even dangerous and neither test is accurate enough for it to matter. it takes days for an accurate test as accumulation is the real issue
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>>2977671
While I agree they are being sold something they don't need, to play devil's advocate, a properly done pex installation should only have joints at the fixtures. It comes in 50-300ft rolls and can be bent in a 12" circle. There shouldn't be a need for 90s or anything. You should be safe with it in the walls.
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>>2977695
Cool. The company does decent work and the plumber said they used uponor brand pex-a and hadn't had any problems. The sales pitch didn't exactly convince me but maybe I'll get a chance to question them some more about the exact install methods.
I've read expansion is preferred to crimping; do you know if that's true or even matters?
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>>2975020
im thinking about a diy motorcycle trailer, a simple single rail style to hold one dirt bike. am I reading this pic right? ~after pumping the shock up the shock will support X amount of weight~ im thinking about making a set of trailing arms with these or a coilover instead of a expensive torsion axle kit
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Got a tractor electrics problem.
Need to solve it before monday.
Not a complex one thankfully. At least I hope it isn't.
The loader has an electrically controlled switch controling a solenoid controls the valve that alternates between working the tipper rams and the implement control feed.
I thought it was a connection leading to the switch but although it was a little loose the miltimeter came up fine and bypassing the switch doesn't make a difference.
Dad and his friend looked at it yesterday and they seemed to think it was the switch but I don't know how much they fiddled with the system and what that did to it.
What seems weird about it is that there's only one wire leading out to the valve control box is that normal? Is it using the steel body as neg/neutral or something?
I'll try taking the solenoid thing apart and checking all connections between there but any suggestions in the mean time would be appreciated.
This might be easier to ask but should I get a voltage reading between the battery terminal and the tractor frame?
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>>2977723
pic of the system as it seems to be
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>>2977723
Solenoids go bad as well. They’re sort of a consumable over the long term. Do further research, but most of the time you can jump power across the signal terminals on the solenoid and here it activate to see if it’s bad or not.
Also to test the switch and wiring, have somebody hit the switch and see if you get the 12V across those signal terminals on the solenoid.
>>2977724
This def isn’t the correct wiring diagram
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>>2977723
>>2977731
Also possibly on the 1 wire thing. The tractor frame is going to be basically the - wire in some cases. If you’re going to be testing between the wire and the frame to see if you get 12V when you hit the switch… assuming you’re new to this, make sure you have a good contact with the ground on the frame. You need clean, bare metal to get good contact and get a proper reading on the meter. If the frame is painted, find a clean bolt going into the frame and scratch any oxidation off of it and take you’re negative reading from that spot or the negative terminal on the battery if the probes reach.
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>>2977726
>>2977731
Solenoid is fine.
wiring diagram is what's there other than the fuse I missed the first time
I got it working for five minutes then it stubbornly stopped again.
I think it's either a loose fix on a broken wire or the switch is actually dodgy but works if the wires are in the right angle. I've not got a direct replacement switch but I can probably tape a switch to the the stick, will just need to be flipped instead of a button.
Will try to get an actual replacement next week if that make the difference but need it for monday morning so not an option for now...
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>>2977731
>This def isn’t the correct wiring diagram
>>2977736
>wiring diagram is what's there other than the fuse I missed the first time
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>>2977740
And the whole wire from the battery + to the switch instead of the wire being teed off before the switch
Could easily be a bum switch. You can pull the wires off the switch and use your meter probes with continuity or resistance to test that it reliably opens and closes
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>>2977748
No, I did that already as I said the switch works fine, but there's a little bit of wriggle so I think the pins is loose so I'll need to replace the switch when I can get one however someone soldered it in place for some reason, but I couldn't tell where the fault was, I literally bypassed the switch completely and it still didn't work, but later I wriggled something somewhere and it worked, then it didn't then it did.
My current theory is a combination of the switch and some dodgy wire repair, but dad said it was working fine aftyerwards so I won't jinx it but I'll try to figure it out tomorrow.
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If you pulled up on this scene with what you have in your car/truck right now, could you save him? Would you try?
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is joining PEX with these kind of hose clamps legit?
I have some minor changes to do and don't want to buy the a crimping tool.
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>>2977792
>>2977781
seems solved now It was some cup type quick connector thing that I initially dismissed until I tweaked it with the multimetre attached and realised it was failing when it was fully engaged for some reason.
I've not replaced it yet but if that's what fixes it then It shouldn't reoccur
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>>2978121
>in your detailed schematic.
good one...
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Is this shit decent or disposable garbage?
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I have a grinder that i want to put a vacuum cleaner on. But surely there are better alternatives of just putting the tube near the grinder, something like a vacuum cleaner "modules" that are more easily integrated in existing systems.
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I have an electric griddle that is about 5 years old. It instantly trips the 20a GFCI breakers I have in my kitchen, but it won't trip the 20a non-GFCI breakers I have in my garage. It works in the garage but it's a pain to take it out there and back to the kitchen every morning.
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I live in a small on-grid cabin and recent storms have left me without power for days so in the future Id like to be better prepared. I was thinking of getting a small unexpensive power station and 1 or a couple solar panels. However it seems like a waste to have some access to solar energy and only take advantage of it during emergencies so I wonder if I should use it everyday charging it during the day and at night I would use it to power my bedroom/office lamp and charge small devices like my phone, smaller power banks, hair clippers, etc
However I worry that kind of everyday use for little things could just needlessly wear out the battery life, would you say that would be worth it or am I better off just keeping the power station in storage and only actually use it in times of need?
(pic is just an example, not necessarily what im getting I've not picked a specific device yet)
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>>2978321
So you would be better off just separating these tasks out. I don't know if this crappy power station supports it or not, but you should be just using the solar power straight through as you generate it for small applications, and then leaving the battery alone and using grid power during the night. The battery should be left at 100% all the time and only used when you actually need it.
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Problem: Need the ability to have a fairly robust office computer setup in new car
Already have a laptop mount in mind (unless anons have particular recommendations), and will get one of those screen extenders, maybe 2.
Car already has a 120v plug but lists max wattage at 130. Laptop charger shows max pull of 280W. Obviously I don't want to damage the integrated 120v or battery or alternator or whatever that would burn up. Thankfully I have a battery pack/UPS thing meant for solar that takes a charge from 120v. What I want to know is:
A) do I need to limit the voltage/amperage with an in-line device to stop the power supply from drawing more than 130W or do you reckon it's already got something like that?
B) If I do need to do so, will the low rate of charge damage the power supply?
C) If I didn't use the beefy laptop and instead used a smaller one that only pulls 80W is the 120v from the car a dirty enough waveform that it'll mess up the laptop or its brick? I don't have an oscilloscope but I could get one if it's likely to save me a potential headache.
Also posted in /ohm/ but thought here might be good too
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>bossman got mad because I arrive 20-25min late at the jobsites
Kek. I'm on the road everyday and it's just me and another coworker going to different clients. Bossman only shows up maybe once every couple months so what did he expected lmao.
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Lol Tractor Supply is stupid
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Why is it *always* called a drill? Most tools pretty much just have the one function, a sander sands, a saw saws but you can put any one of dozens of attachments in a drill
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What the fuck is this shit? It’s some sort of plastic strip, pulled this out of the hot water line on the shower. This shit has been clogging my aerators and the hot on the tub. Is my water heater fucked?
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>>2978697
It doesn't work for electronics until you've got an understanding of common components and what they do. I don't have a book to recommend, but I think Big Clive's teardowns are informative and approachable for beginners. Search bigclivedotcom on Youtube (4chan thinks the link is spam).
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How the fuck do I remove this fucker with wires running into it and in an existing wall without fucking up the drywall a saving the box.
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>>2978826
saw-blade along the studs to cut through the nails.
let the box fall into the cavity and replace with a remodel/old work/retrofit box.
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>>2978826
>saving the box.
why?
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>>2978833
It's possible to remove the cut off nails while the box is hanging inside the wall so you can work the box out of the existing hole.
You can't replace the nails with the drywall in the way but you can use a long screwdriver to drive a couple of screws through the side of the box into the stud.
The side are thin so it won't be very durable but may be good enough for you.
two screws close to the front edge and one as far back as you can reach to put it in at not too much of an angle.
Why pull the box out just to put it back?
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How do I hotwire a momentary switch on this daughterboard? Or should I just attach it on the motherboard?
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Picture from Google. My asphalt roof is nearing end of life and I'm thinking of replacing it with metal. The decking is old 1x10 inch timber. Assuming the timber is still in good shape, can you install metal roofing on that kind of decking? Will it void the warranty or cause issues? If so, can I just go over the existing decking with another kind of decking or will the old decking need to be removed? The house was overbuilt so it should handle the extra weight without issue.
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>>2975616
i usually ask if i were to discard this or give it away at scrap prices could i obtain it again for that same price or as easily again if i needed it in the future
this is only a question for salvaged stuff not for unused consumables ofc
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Can y'all recommend a cheap waterproof low voltage connector that doesn't suck to reconnect often? My dad has hummingbird feeders, and because they have food available, the hummingbirds stayed instead of migrating for the winter, so he's overengineering a heater system to keep it from freezing when the weather gets too cold. There's going to be a connection between a solar panel and some batteries/electronics, and another between that and the heating pad on the feeder. Every few days he'll need to unplug the heater to refill the feeder, and possibly once in a while bring the battery box in to charge if the weather is shit enough or we undersize the solar panel too much for the feature creep (might add a camera to watch the birds). It'll probably be around 12 volts.
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>>2975020
When i turn on the tv it shows no image whatsoever, so i need to fiddle with the scart cable or lightly tap on the chassis with my fingers, to make the image appear. its also suffering from vertical collapse and it has the rgb lines on top of the image
I would just like to know what is causing this.
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Looking at building a piece of shit sand/plaster furnace to try out metal casting, read a lot of people online talking about insulation issues (given it's not a real refractory material it's not surprising), wondering if the addition of dolomite to the mixture would help with insulation without causing any issues? most recipes for dolomite concrete replace a portion of the cement, in this case would it be better to replace part of the sand or the plaster with dolomite?
Anyone with refractory experience feel free to throw your input in
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>>2979077
>i need to fiddle with the scart cable or lightly tap on the chassis with my fingers, to make the image appear
In my experience, that is bad solder joints on the connector. A broken solder joint is a common issue with connectors because they get wiggled so much when plugging and unplugging things. As for the other issues, I can't say. Might be the same cause, might not.
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>>2975020
Looking to buy one of those engraver pens, something like the Resparked Customizer, as a gift to a friend. Only I've seen terrible reviews... Are there any worthwhile alternatives? Needs to have replaceable bits, ideally cordless and shipping internationally.
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>>2979220
This is a very real answer;
Get some grinding belts for bench grinders. Turn them inside out, and put the rod trough the inside of one.
Now make a flanged drum that fits the belt, diameter like 5-10 cm, and put this on a grinder with speed adjustment.
Put the drum on the inside of the grinding belt that goes around the scaly rod, tighten it by pulling on the grinder, and start it.
This is how you polish repaired hydraulic pistons, it works great.