>IceSL now in the proper category
Just like it's supposed to be

thank u for baking bread

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ASA doesn't warp for me anymore.

>>2975935
Thatnks for the thread. Nice to see my multi-kilogram layer shift in the mosaic.

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Can I get some TPU advice? TPU90, trying to print picrelated. It just goes awry at a specific point, in picrelated I have two attempts, one with 2 wall layers and one with 4. I'm using Bambu's TPU90A settings (on non Bambu TPU), I printed a benchy with it and it worked. The TPU has been dried for 10+ hours, and I'm printing it from a spool stand that minimizes the distance and bends between the spool and the path to the extruder.

Settings are something like
>220C hot end
>100% chamber fan
>35C bed
>0.8mm retraction

I lowered some of the speeds but most are defaults. I don't really understand whats going on but it seems like at a certain angle its not able to deposit the layer correct and then it continues to get worse.

>>2975956
It's failing on that overhang, right? There isn't a seam or retraction or a move operation in the suspect area? Seems like there's not enough internal support on the overhang, or there's not enough time/surface area for dissipating heat per layer, compared to the overhangs in a benchy or temperature tower. I'd whip up a test model that takes less time to print if that's a significant factor, and mess about with temperatures, part cooling fan values, and minimum layer time. If it is minimum layer time, it might be just as fast to print 4 of them at once than to print just one.

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>>2975972
Printed a couple more with different settings. I think you are onto something with the cooling issues. I have this setting in BambuStudio "Ensure vertical shell thickness" enabled by default and I think that PLUS the cooling is causing the part to warp severely, fucking the print up.

I don't think there's a way to print this sucker without infill, though I may try a couple more times. Just too thin and the TPU is too bendy.

>>2975980
Could you add reinforcing ribs to the outside or inside? Or is it not something you've modelled in the first place?

I'd just try setting your print speed to 20% of the default and see if that works.

>>2975944
Is that from a bedslinger or is it still a closed chamber?

what's the best printer that doesn't have unreasonable levels of DRM niggardry in it? I heard Bambu isn't good because the main boards aren't swappable, or something.

>>2976018
Bambu isn't good because it tries to lock you in their ecosystem. This of course doesn't mean you have to abide by their rule, as you absolutely can do without their cloud bullshit, but you're basically dealing with an Apple-like system, although way more lenient than Apple for now. That being said, they're really competitive in price/performance and out of the box experience. The alternatives are Prusa, which is overpriced to hell and back, and chinks, who can compete in price and performance, but often cut corners and need a more hands on approach to get their machine to be reliable either in terms of firmware or hardware. If you don't have specific needs, the Bambu A1 Mini is the best bang for your buck hands down.

>>2976018
You should also consider what actual features you want. If it’s just something like the ability to print ABS or TPU then that’s easy, but if you want to print PPS or to have a heated enclosure or to print with a seperate support material, that narrows your choices a lot.

>>2976021
>>2976018
Also, NTA but you might think you want to print CF, PPS or PC and all sorts of other exotic materials.

But, you'll find 90% of the time, PLA or PETG is fine.

>>2976021
>>2976022
yeah I expect that most of the time I'll be printing something just to get a complex shape for e.g. sand casting or other molding processes, not to actually rely on the part strength. So dimensional stability of the material is most important, and I guess PLA is the best material for that use case.

>>2976019
>The alternatives are Prusa, which is overpriced to hell and back
I don't think that holds true anymore. Prusa is more expensive than competition, but nothing more, no exaggeration needed. As seen on printer loli's channel they still provide the best, as in quality, results out of the box, while still keeping up the speed game. The whole enclosed and corexy stories are also over, quite contrary do their finger crushing magnets provide the current best solution to sheet lifting. He got late to the party (again), but the qol gimmicks do speak for themselves. And if after all that you still got a problem, there's support 247 with decent English in voice and live chat.
Would i buy a Prusa? No, i'd pull out the best out of Sovol or similar(again). However i started to see myself recommend more cores over christmas. Plenty of people who want the best ootb while caring less about multicolour because they don't need it or just paint their prints altogether.
>TLDR
The mk4 was an atrocity.

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>>2975935
Can't disclose where I live but I gotta hide this little guy like a jew.

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What fucking printer do I even have? I bought this as an Ender 3 S1 and it worked well for three years, but it quit booting up three weeks ago.

Tried to reflash the firmware on the mainboard, nothing.

Swapped the mainboard, nothing.

Tried to reflash the firmware on the new mainboard, nothing (though I could level the bed and actually displayed the leveling data on the screen, the old mainboard had never done that.)

Ordered a new display for an S1, it arrived today and it was a touchscreen, unlike my old display. Apparently all S1s have touchscreen displays, WTF?!

I bought this printer new from the largest German online retailer and they apparently sold me a new S1 with the display of an 3 Neo?!

Again tried to reflash the mainboard and the new touchscreen display, nothing.

No matter what I do the display just shows an empty progress bar and nothing else happens. I am at my wit's end with this fuckign thing, help me bros.

Pic shows printer with the old most likely borked display that shows leveling data but nothing else.

>>2975956
that overhang looks difficult, maybe go for wall printing order==inner,outer?

>>2976034
Prusas were all mid until they dropped the C1 you were better off with an ender, but C1L absolutely slaps
They also have the HT90 but I don't think I've ever met someone who needed it, let alone had one
It's still a nice company that doesn't force you to use spyware in your tools and they don't care what you do with things you paid your own money for so I respect them for that

>>2976072
>$1.8K
Brutal.

>>2976018
Prusa or ender, everything else is a toy or not truly yours even if you pay for it
>>2976019
The dumb name alone is a reason to avoid it, sloptubers shilling it is another one
> If you don't have specific needs
Unless you're running a factory you never really look for a printer with specific needs in mind, you buy the best you can afford and get the best of it

>>2976073
Yeah..
But if you otherwise don't waste money on useless shit and want just one printer it's a good one to get and probably worth it.

I've learned a lot of my skills from youtube like welding, fixing my car and CAD for example and there's a ton of great channels for all these things
But why are so many YT people who make 3D printing content such massive faggots? I can't find another way to describe them, they just look like redditors, make useless shit and don't tell you useful things so you can diagnose what you're doing wrong, instead they yap for hours, do ads for a printer or filament or whatever but manage to say nothing and they sound really annoying while doing that.

>>2976076
I've noticed this too.
I also notice that a lot of 3D printing tutorials and problem-solving stuff, the hands are always brown.

>>2976079
I don't care about that I'm not a poltard, I know how to use cad because of indians on youtube who barley speak English, which isn't even my first language, so even if they were so hard to understand, I still found use of them.
But 3D print ones are impossible to watch, like that cnckitchen guy, I don't care if he's got the knowledge of the world in these videos, I just can't force myself to listen to him

>>2976074
Low IQ post

>>2976079
>Hallo sirs, here is how you unclog a filament clog on a bambu pee1s
>Brown hands spread dirt on the front cover and fumble with the magnets to open it.

>>2976080
I think it's more just that unless you're actually printing shit you make, you're just on the 3D printing thing as a youtube niche bandwagon, and none of these guys actually have to print anything to make money, or for passion. It's just a pay cheque for them to get given a new printer for free, read some selling points and then shit out a benchy and go "wow, it looks so much better than anything I've seen!"
The few that actually do print shit for sale are boomers who shit out 100 flexidragons and fidget toys a week and sell them to retards for $50 each at craft fairs.

>>2976023
PLA is definitely the easiest to print well, don’t think anything prints as well even on better printers. But being able to print multi-material supports that easily break away or dissolve might be worth buying a toolchanger, IDEX, or dual-nozzle printer for. Being able to print dimensionally accurate ABS to vapour smooth it might also be worth considering if you want smooth internal surfaces that are impossible to sand by hand for a mould or a plug, you’d want an enclosed printer at the least for that. Though for that purpose there’s also PVB and HIPS. There are also lost wax filaments, I’m not sure what it takes to print with them.

>>2976034
They’ve got INDX now too.

>>2976068
If you run the VScode Marlin configuration wizard thing, you can set the display type to anything you want. You should also be able to enable other little improvements in the firmware, like enabling input-shaping or using a different user interface that makes it easier to run a PID autotune.

But it looks to me that the S1 has a screen with the knob, while the S1 Pro has the touchscreen.

>>2976080
CNC Kitchen makes some actually interesting content. He recently showed off pseudo-non-planar anti-aliasing, something I haven’t seen anyone else bring up, and last year his video on CF nylons was quite eye opening. But I don’t subscribe or watch his printer reviews.

Ultimately, he and lots of other YouTubers are locked in an attention economy, it’s a brutal hustle where you can’t keep your dignity if you want to make a decent living. But even then, Vision Miner don’t rely on YouTube for money and they’re still kinda insufferable.

MyTechFun is eternally based though, just a big eastern yuro running highly rigorous scientific explorations into filaments and their properties. Polymaker sponsors the whole channel for some reason, and he actually offers value on this patreon.
Chris Borge is cool too, he just does projects instead of reviews, and probably has a job.

>>2976076

they need to make enough videos to appease the algorithm, so they have to film 10 videos hyping up nothing in order to keep viewers for when they do a once a year interesting video on stuff like non-planar slicing or g-code post processing.

>>2976079

its simple, most of the people buying printers are either huge companies, or "you mate gary who chews on drywall", the indians work in the huge factories, then go home and using that information try and set up a job online poorly explaining the printer problems they got taught about by the technicians at the factory.
then gary watches it, tries to follow the tutorial, but cant seem to get his ender to match the videos prusa, so he sells it on gumtree to a brown who then replaces the broken fan in a video and sells it on to another gary.

the poojeets are trying to become some middle manager class for electronics, and printers are just the most retard attracting option, now that you cant do ipod or phone repairs, and since mower and home appliance repair videos have been taken over by people who ACTUALLY know what they're doing, and pc software repair has been outsourced to ai instead of the telemarketing farms in brownest india they dont have the stolen knowledge to make videos about.

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>>2976092
>CNC Kitchen
kek

>>2976076
>>2976102
>they need to make enough videos to appease the algorithm
Ok, but why do they need to do that? Because almost all of them tried to be slant and are sitting on a failed printing farm. You're just watching the fallout of those without other talents.

>>2976092
>CNCKitchen
Hasn't posted anything worthwhile in years. The only good ones left are indeed MTF and printer loli.

>>2976074
I can swap the board in my P1S if it ever gets out of line. Already have it offline so they can't remotely fuck me. It's mine, and they'll have to come and physically take it if they don't like it. Not even a timed kill switch is enough.

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I was looking to get into 3D printers but they seem useless. everything I see are toys or decoration. nothing really useful.

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Got my set up all neat and quiet.
Now I need to figure out a way to route the purge into a waste basket behind it.

>>2976121
Cool, our weekly contrarian post. Consider that:
>most people in this thread do not print the flexi dragons and other trinkets you often see, instead perceiving it as vapid goyslop
>3D printing is best used as a means to an end, supplementing another hobby or industry (tabletop, custom brackets and enclosures, test-fitting prototypes, combat robots, etc.)
Why the fuck would you think "hey I might want to get into 3D printing" without any idea of what you might want to print? At least pick something that has intrinsically useful results, like knitting or cabinetry. With knitting you don't need to buy a $200 machine to find out it's not for you.

>>2976124
I do not want to be contrarian. I want to see something useful.
>supplementing another hobby or industry.
other than printing parts hard to find for old stuff, I can't see the use. why would you print a bolt or a nut? they are standard and sell cheap.
post something useful please.

>>2976127
>a bolt or a nut
The point is to print things you can't just buy, or things that are prohibitively priced. Like an adapter for your twist-lock phone case to fit onto a certain brand of stroller handle. You can print an enclosure with the right cutouts and standoffs to fit your diy circuitry. Plenty of people out there 3D printing computer mice and keyboards with custom ergonomics. I know the local blueberry farm 3D prints their sprinkler nozzles (in black ASA), because it's a hundred times cheaper than buying replacements from the manufacturer, even if they might not last quite as long. My local car audio shop is able to print out entire custom dashboard inserts (and maybe even whole dashboards on a massive printer) to fit stereos and speakers and other such items that the OEM panelling has no capacity for. I've 3D printed moulds to inject full of epoxy to ruggedise the electronics contained, vaseline + paraffin wax makes for a nice rub-on mould release. Those combat robot guys print custom wheels and bumpers out of TPU, it's really impact resistant and cheap to make replacements for when they inevitably get shredded. Apparently people are 3D scanning their feet and getting made-to-order shoes 3D printed for them, I know some VR headset people are doing the same.

I actually printed some nuts, because I got a bunch of waterproof panel-mount USB B sockets that were missing their fastening nuts, and those nuts are an oddball imperial fine thread about ~23mm in diameter. Once I had a working design, I printed 20 of the things. They're more than strong enough, and McMaster don't even sell the nuts by themselves, just alongside the connectors.

>>2976124
>>2976133
>replying to the lowest of baits
This isn't /pol/. Please keep it that way.

>>2976073
Check out the price of an enclosed 5-toolhead XL.

With silicone toolhead.

>>2976118
>Ok, but why do they need to do that?
to get paid?

like, i get that it sucks that every hobby is not a commodity, and it would be cool if people were able to just share cool shit they did without money ruining it, but doing big printing projects can get expensive, and it takes a special kind of person to lose money while teaching others.

>>2976179
No, because 3dprinting for means of making money is dead. Milling, routing, electronics, sewing, etc.. all got the potential to make back your investment even in just your free time. A 3d printer is an economic death trap.

>>2976121
To be honest, yes, if you dont CAD your own models they are only 10% as useful as they can be. Learning CAD is a must when getting a 3D printer

>>2976011
My printer has a closed chamber but chamber temps only go up to 50°C. It works well for most parts. Mainly got this glue because I had issues printing ASA parts that were 20x380mm rectangles. This fixed that.

Got my bonus, so I was going to buy a 3D printer.
Was going to get the QIDI Q2 as I like the idea of a heated chamber and I feel I can get deal with its issues. But the combo version with their multi-spool filament box is forever stuck on
>pre-sale
with shipping "within 2 months".
Is there anything else I should be considering? Bambu with a heated chamber would cost me exactly twice as much unless I'm missing something, and while I can afford that, I can't justify it.

>>2976194
>ASA parts that were 20x380mm rectangles
Honestly, sounds a bit like a "Why 3d print that?" issue.

>>2976200
>pre-sale
Aren't they just farming "exclusivity"? Check if it's the same shitshow as with the quidi box, which always shipped 2-3 weeks after order. That said, if it's the printer you want, wait for it. Especially if your alternative is a wohle different UX.

>>2976121
Pretty much, unless you’re a pretty talented designer well aware of the limits of FDM printing a lot of stuff will be worthless

Even the “good” designers skip out on internal geometries and filleting obvious weak points to circumvent weaknesses in 3d printed parts.

Even with z axis anti aliasing now coming out recently, people are doing standard sharp corners prone to bed lift or breakage in design just out of pure ignorance on the strengths of printed parts

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>Almost made me reply to a Sieg post

There's an IKEA cable that I can't find a replacement for. I was thinking about harvesting the crimps from my old pc psu cables and printing the plug casin in pla. Is this an ok idea? I also have some petg, but I don't want to open it for such a tiny print.

>>2976138
why this cult mentality? go enjoy your printers, but even questioning here I still haven't seen anything useful posted. so my point stands, it seems like these printers are only good for toys and useless stuff.

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I thought I'd check (mostly just for fun) if the desiccant packs in the last few filament packs I opened were still good to go or were saturated. Starting humidity when I closed the lid was 22%, this is two days later, and I guess that answers the question pretty thoroughly.

What does it mean if my support walls are smoother than my perimeter walls?
My perimeter walls have never been "rough" but they have a slight texture to them as a result of the layer lines. It's never really bothered me, but I noticed today as I was taking the supports off of a print, the vertical zig-zag walls of the support material felt a lot more smooth than the walls of the actual print. Like whatever impact the layering has was far less on those parts.
What could cause the difference? The first thing that comes to mind is that the supports are printed at a higher speed than the rest of the print.

>>2976259
is there a way to tell the difference between used up and fresh desiccant without a long test like that?

>>2976206
I do not understand this reasoning. Sure the geometry of the object poses a challange due to warping. Instead of being a lil' bitch and giving up at the first hint of trouble, I fixed the problem using a bed adhesive. Nothing unheard of in 3D printing really. I have a 500W PTC hester orderd but untill I can get that installed, configured and dailed in, the glue will be an excellent solution to printing warp prone geometries. Or geometries with a very small first layer footprint. Neither of these solutions were costly. The PTC heater was less than €10 on amazon, the glue was less than €8. So in total I have spent €18 to improve my printer and waste less expensive filament on failed prints. And annother good reason to print this part is A) they don't sell Daylight XXL LED light mounts B) I designed my own mount in CAD and will be releasing it for free so suckers that need to git gud can rage about how their shit warps. And C) I have a large 377x370 bed, i want to be able to use all of it, the glue and hester add value to my already expensive printer. Why print that is generally a good question though.

>>2976274
You're overthinking. The suspicion was merely if you're printing regular planks, you might as well just.. buy a plank. Similar to the people printing sheets for their electronic enclosures and what not. Most of the time it's even stronger and cheaper, especially once you do several.

>>2974495
Update: I solved the problem by buying a Bambu.

>>2976271
Nah just dry it out before you use it.

>>2976271
Two days was simply when I remembered to check it, not the amount of time strictly necessary. A quick new experiment with some fresh desiccant and the humidity in the box has dropped a few percent after just five minutes. How quickly exactly will of course depend on the amount of desiccant, the sizer of the box, how humid the air is at the start and how dry/soaked the desiccant is.
Also some desiccant has added moisture-sensitive dye so it changes colour as it gets saturated, but that's rarely used in these desiccant packs, and not entirely reliable.

>>2976268
VFAs caused by various subtle resonances. They're indeed affected by print speed, with details specific to each printer. You can do some test prints and see what speeds minimize them for you.

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Anyone here sand ABS plastic to make it smoother? I will sometimes dip 3d printed ABS into acetone so it won't break at the layer lines so easily.

One of the models I printed is remixed for vacuum hoses and one of them is for a dyson hose, the red release button I dippedinto acetone

>pic related

while I don't mind the layers , it has given me a chance to try smoothing out the layers on something small before dipping it in acetone to have a smoother finish.

>>2976340
abs sands good, if you keep it cool.

>>2976342
My dumbass never even asked the question, If you know what grit would I start at along with toerhgritsand what rit would I end at? I don't know if I should accept google AI answer

"Sanding 3D printed ABS requires a progressive approach, starting with 100-150 grit sandpaper to remove layer lines, then moving to 220, 400, and up to 600+ grit for a smooth finish. Wet sanding is highly recommended for ABS to prevent clogging, reduce heat, and achieve a polished surface. Use small circular motions, and use sanding sponges or blocks for even results. "

>>2976354
Serviceable advice. I could go into nuance, but if you're not familiar with hand sanding, you need to build some experience to see how it goes in order to interpret how to tweak things. If you'll be vapor smoothing too, only do the coarse pass to remove layer lines.

>>2976354
i have some wet dry sand paper sets from 80 ,200, 600 grit, but i usually skip out on the 600 if im smoothing it anyway.

>>2976380
oh hey a fellow WT enjoyer
you ever print anything WT related? immersive usb controllers? models?

>>2975935
I've recently started messing printing, got the hang of PLA and PETG and got no problems, now I want to start with ABS since I have an unopened spool.
Yeah I know it's toxic and I'll make some sort of ventilation, but except that what do I need and what should I pay attention to?
My printer is enclosed and has the PEI magnetic plate, the satin one Prusa makes.
Will this cause adhesion issues or overadhesion? Do I need things like slurry, glue sticks, hsir spray or whatever?
I just don't want to fuck my printer up

>>2976393
I don't think you're likely to get overadhesion with ABS, though I haven't printed it myself so you'd want to double-check that. If anything you'd get a lack of adhesion, but that's not going to ruin a printer unless you let if cake the nozzle or catch and impact something. So you should be pretty safe to do some test prints if you can monitor them every quarter hour or so, to see what sticks.

>>2976271
When I used fresh stuff, the reading fell incredibly fast. It was very obviously pulling the moisture from the air. Two minutes is probably enough.

>>2976279
And nothing was learned.

>>2976394
Lack of adhesion would mean I ruined one part, that's fine by me, I expect to mess a couple of prints up until I figure out what works best. I'm just trying to avoid destroying the print plate or causing some other sort of damage. ABS and TPU scare me since I got no experience with them, at least with pla and petg I was there when some people worked with these materials

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I made a thing. https://www.printables.com/model/1600895-daylight-xxl-mount

>>2976427
>ABS and TPU scare me
For both on that print sheet, use an adhesive. This is to help the ABS stick and to help the TPU release without damaging the surface.

https://help.prusa3d.com/filament-material-guide

Prusa's guide says that you can print ABS without an adhesive on the satin sheet, but I've found it to be unreliable.

Hasn't the eternal ABS reoccurred enough? Just buy ASA, it's ABS but with much less downsides.

>>2976437
My trick for TPU is to just get skin oil on the bed before printing. Still sticks, but not to the point of damage.

How do you all store your filaments? I live near the beach so it's VERY humid in here.

>>2976488
It’s more expensive, but price is coming down somewhat. ASA has slightly lower heat resistance, but it warps less and is UV resistant.

>>2976514
Big 70L tub with rubber gasket around its lid, with two jars full of desiccant.

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I'm currently putting some storage racks in the basement. Think some TPU latches will be enough to make it somewhat kid and idiot proof? I.e. print them flat and attach them in an angle like pic rel. The hard plastic ones in the box are just finest chinesium, already cracked one with thumb, index and middle finger.

>>2976392
not really, sorry. lots of cringe chotckis on makerworld though

>>2976542
I store the same way. Tossed a hygrometer in there too.

>>2976514
Ezystorage 18L IP67 storage bins.

https://www.menards.com/main/storage-organization/storage-totes-bins/storage-totes/ezystorage-waterproof-clear-gasket-tote/fba34060/p-1642874266522717-c-12667.htm

They hold 4-5 1kg spools (depending on brand). I've had them keep filament dry for more than a year with some desiccant in there with it.

>>2976491
Adhesive is more consistent and doesn't mess up the sheet for other materials.

>>2976557
>chotckis
There's a silent T there.

Snapmaker U1 is going into full price release in March, while FlashForge and Sovol are definitely working on toolchangers, and in all likelihood so are Creality and Bambu. In absence of other information I’d be tempted to wait for the Sovol, but the U1 is really pretty decent, and all the 3rd party improvements to it make it pretty incredible looking. I don’t know if I trust the other ones to have firmwares as open.

Source: TheNextLayer jewish conspiracy video

ive had an ender 3 pro for probably 5 years. i tuned it to the point that it always gave perfect prints but it was still slow at 120mm/sec despite being a massive increase over stock.

i recently bought an ender 3 v3 KE and wish Id have done it sooner. i have always used Cura to slice and ive seen some weird settings in the default profile, is there a preferred slicer for the KE? I also read that the default Cura profile for the KE sucked. do i need to change slicers and learn all this over again or is there a profile available?

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What would cause print failures like this? Bambu A1

>>2976590
dont touch the bed surface, oil is real
give it a clean with dish soap

Bros, please talk me out of ordering Anycubic Kobra X at a price of 269€. It seems like a good deal, I'm really tempted by the multi-material/color printing.

I currently have Ender 3 S1 and I guess I could get about 100€ from selling it. Or I could bring it to my folk's home so I could print there as well...

I don't NEED a new printer, but getting new stuff just feels so good.

Thanks.

t. poorfag (and possibly retarted)

>>2976579
Meh, a quick trip to the sink with soap and it's good again. Takes like one minute.

>>2976590
What material, and how old is it, and did you dry it?

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>>2975935
0.8mm nozzle, 0.4mm layer height. regular sunlu pla.
What causes this? is it because I chose single wall and low infill? Everywhere else it's perfect, just the seam that has issues. gap is around 5mm.

>>2976590
clean bed, reset slicer setting to default if you've changed any.

>>2976656
tune retraction settings and possibly try "extra length after retract" setting as well

>>2976656
in slicer preview, is this where seam should be because it goes up by one layer/it's where layer starts and ends?

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>>2976685
>>2976661
It is the seam, and since it's single outer wall the only place where there is a visible retraction.
I'm giving it 1mm extra length afterretract and I'll report back in a bit.

>>2976691
actually, why is it retracting that much and that far away from the seam? what setting voerns that in orca slicer?

>>2976656
Really bad retraction gap. I’ve only ever had that bad with TPU, I’d guess something is loose in your extruder unless you’ve really messed with your slicer settings from the default profile. Bowden tube or direct-drive?

>>2976695
direct drive. this is how the slicer is slicing it for some reason. the gap closes more if i go back to slicing it with a 0.6mm nozzle profile, but it's this large on a .8
I've upped my temps and lowered vol. flow, let's see if it helps, i'll report back in a couple of hours.

>>2976548
Noname rack? My harbour freight racks came with metal latches and are probably stronger than the wall they're attached to. I'd probably just buy some metal angles.

>>2976584
I'm a bit concerned about
>yet another nozzle standard
and then
>yet another clone of that nozzle standard
I'll probably wait till a winner emerges or sovol streamlines TT's SV08 system.

>>2976606
>Waah Waah, shitty new toy
Stop being a redditor.

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Is there an optimal way to clean up this area?I would assume sanding is my only option, but should I be printing extra material here and then sanding it down to avoid fraying of layers?

Standard PLA. Changing angle of the print is not an option, the model has a lot of weird edges and this angle prints 95% of them really well. I also cannot split up the model because there is no clean place to join without ruining the look of the gun its meant to resemble and there are mechanical internals that would have to be redesigned or removed.

>>2976708
You could try some solvent.

>>2976708
If you can, try splitting the part up and printing it separately, then gluing it back.
>>2976711
AFAIK PLA degrades when exposed to chemicals. Vapor smoothing works because the solvent melts the plastic which redistributes on the surface and then hardens back once the surface has dried up. PLA shouldn't behave like that with any readily accessible solvent, although plasticizers added by the compounder may be dissolved by acetone or similar, so YMMV.

i am dangerously close to ordering a bambu p2s

I found a real niche application for a pretty large 3D printer but I don't want to drop used Corolla money testing it, so I'm wondering if theres any reason I can't just take a design like the Voron and scale it up. Im thinking dimensions roughly the size of an average guys torso and arms, or maybe a 2000's tube TV on its side.

>>2976708
What part gets ruined when you print it with the center plane flat on the bed? I'd really consider if its easier to fix that than the join, because that's never going to print anywhere near as well as if it was on the bed. If you absolutely must print it like this, I'd just say sand it flat, bondo, paint.

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>>2976691
>>2976696
I honestly forget what exactly I did besides raising the temp by 10c.
but it seems to be working.
cheers lads.

>>2976696
Then download or cross-reference retraction setting values. A similar machine should be fine.

>>2976707
Worst case you can upgrade or replace the toolheads.

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>>2976727
There is a number of tracks on the inside that need to be smooth from the print because i cant possibly sand such small inner surfaces, which locks me to one angle.

And the outside has many curved surfaces and weird angles that only a milled receiver could have, so I had to find an angle that does as many of those weird surfaces correctly as possible. I'm reluctant to do a join because a line would be ugly and there are internal tracks that would force me to put the split in a place where the line would be very obvious. And on top of all that I would have to move the pegs connecting the two halves, when space is limited already.

>>2976732
Oof, thats pretty rough. Maybe you could do a cut so you can print the functional internals however you want with some extra material on the top, so you can sand it down flat and merge it with the aesthetic external part, with a perfect fit for both halves of the grip because they're printed flat to the bed.

>>2976726
Why not DIY a 500mm RatRig?

>>2976739
Yeah, thats basically what I'm looking for, didn't even know these guys existed. Gotta check if its that much cheaper to ghetto rig one versus their kits. Might still just make an abomination out of wood because the scale is so large quality doesn't matter.

>>2976740
>because the scale is so large quality doesn't matter
Wat

>>2976741
Its just structural stuff I want to make, and something that would ruin a model on a normal printer wouldn't really matter. Like 1/8th inch tolerances.

>>2976730
0.8mm can crank out quite a lot more material than the usual 0.4mm, and can make it pretty difficult to maintain a good temp. Makes sense that boosting your temp would work.

>>2976726
SV08 Max would be cheaper than a Voron or ratrig, it’s a bit shit but not that bad. There’s also the slightly smaller Neptune 4 Max for even cheaper, but its motion system does not inspire confidence.

Put a bigger nozzle than 0.4mm regardless of what you do though.

>>2976732
How important is appearance and ergonomics? You could say fuck it all and flatten out the sides of the model to print it sides-down. It'll be a brick, but it should fix all of the printability problems.

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>>2976792
The whole thing is a fidget toy with working parts similar to the real thing, it can shoot a few rubber bands but that was always a secondary goal to looking and feeling like the real thing (as far as toggling the safety/slidelock/mag release goes). Appearance is everything and the only visual sacrifice ive made was to make the top of the barrel pop off so that you can load a rubber band and actually shoot the thing (it doesn't shoot well). I think I'm just gonna have to print some samples and try different sanding techniques for the awkward area.

Anyone have the bambu H2D? I keep getting "filament stuck" errors on the H2D. I don't know what is happening. It will print like half a model then just throw an error. Ive probably thrown like 8k hours through all my bambu machines, but this H2D is being weird. Haven't really tried searching into it yet. These printers are pretty user friendly so my guess is that im doing something incredibly retarded or something is fucked up with my machine.

>>2976742
No, at large scale precision matters even more unless you don't care about layer splits.

>>2976761
Give in and just order a flowtech. It runs miles around the stock hotend.

>>2976811
>average bambu user
Call support and fuck off.

>>2976818
>No, at large scale precision matters even more unless you don't care about layer splits.
Okay that makes sense, was hung up on the nozzle and didn't think of how much more damage something like an axis being out of true would do on this scale.

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>>2976811
My P2S did this the other day.
So that's a thing I guess.
Contact support and then you basically have to threaten to go to war with China unless they fix the issue.
Works sometimes.

>>2975935
Anyone had success printing minis in PLA with Creality K1?

Had the bitch disconnected for a year and just updated my firmware - about to give it a go.

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i recently got my sovol sv08 up and running and its fine ootb, just gotta dial in temps for filaments and get used to orca settings/options. my big issue is that mainsail is just open to anyone on the network with the machines ip? as in theres no feature in it to set up any kind of access control? that seems so goddamn stupid, and i dislike it because i live with someone who is incredibly talented at breaking my stuff and not paying to fix or replace it.

i asked about on /g/ and since i cant control my networks router, it seems that isolating it on a vlan wont work well, so setting up basic auth in nginx would be the best immediate solution. this would be fine since its hardwired to my switch and wouldnt be broadcasting anything over wifi, but it still doesnt seem like a "good" solution. do any of you guys know of any projects that add some kind of authentication to mainsail so i dont have to make my own login page and reverse proxy it?

>>2976841
https://forum.vorondesign.com/threads/protect-your-klipper-printer-mainsail-password-ssl-firewall-rules.469/

>>2976841
Does it really reach the alleged 40k mm/s^2 acceleration or is it just chink marketing like the "300mm/s" print speed of my SV07? Man do I hate Sovol.

>>2976843
Mine's been packed away for a while but I think the input shaper recommended accelerations were something like 28k/8k. It prints fine with the stock acceleration though.

>>2976843
no clue, but she fuckin zooms. i havent bothered toying with any of the settings yet as this is my first fdm printer and there are several more things in this workspace i need to finish before i can devote time to spaghetti and elephant feet. i actually only bought it for the build volume, but its incredibly fast when its not laying down thick extrusions.

what dont you like about sovol? ive read people talking shit about their printers because they require tuning and arent set and forget. im sure theres some marketing bullshit, but im not "entushiast enough" to know or have an opinion on that yet.

>>2976842
thats what i came across looking into this a few days ago and its solid advice. i think my best long term option that doesnt require learning more about networking is doing a reverse proxy login page, but my concern is that its another resource drain since itd be hosted on the printer.

>>2976708
variable layer height

>>2976726
you can test it at scale to see how it prints and then cut it up to see how it actually fits in the real world. if it's long and not wide a belt printer might work.

you can also look for a maker space or a print bro. definitely figure out the exact dimensions you really need, don't go through all the effort and not be able to print because the skirt goes off the bed.

>>2976848
Well, it better be fast or printing in that volume would take ages.
>what don't you like about sovol
It's a long story. I was looking for a bambu as my first printer when I received the SV07 as a gift and so I stuck with it. Out of the box it was very unreliable, but once I got rid of those stupid POM wheels for linear rails on X and Y it suddenly turned into a reliable machine. The upgrade kit almost outvalued the machine. Unlike the SV06 and the SV08, the SV07 is not open source, which was a massive pain in the ass when I wanted to repair the main board: I accidentally caused a short while upgrading the auxiliary fan, because the stock one was unbearably loud. In the end I went through RMA for the board, which was a long and painful process. They did send me a board, but they insisted I tried replacing literally everything else before that instead, so the process dragged for months. As a total novice it made the learning curve incredibly steep incredibly upfront because of all the corner cutting and general chinkery. They may be competitive on price, but after this experience I'll rather pay more than buy sovol.

>>2976548
hwut? I don't understand the application. I mean I get you're printing a flat tpu and then bending it but fucking WHY? if you need the 90º you could print in PLA laying down (use diamond holes for no support). If you need an L piece they have them at the hardware store in actual pieces or even hanger straps (ribbon with holes) which comes in metal or plastic. and if you're trying to make it tip proof, that's not a good solution in the first place.

otoh I think engineering that bend a little with variable infill and annealing into an elbow could be fun in either material.

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>>2976841
if you start getting underextrusion after a few hours printing, there's an issue with that print head where the motor axle expands just enough to press into the planetary gearset and seize it up. If that happens the cure is to pull the stepper off and sand off ~1/32" from the gear and shaft, remember to clean up the grit before reassembly and it should never do that again

>>2976818
Oh a seething prusa fag, whats new. Probably wouldn't be so mad all the time if your machine wasn't down every other day.

>>2976191
I thought Revit is the hot new software that replaced CAD in every aspect?

>>2976934
>Revit
isn't that like shitty architecture speedware? fusion360 is the autodesk "free" king.

>>2976933
>Oh a seething prusa fag, whats new.
What's new is a mention of Prusa in the discussions you replied to. The only brands mentioned there are Voron, RatRig, Bambu, and Flowtech. Is this some kind of projection?

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>>2976894
>if you're trying to make it tip proof, that's not a good solution in the first place
Then what is? I probably should've made it more clear. I'm not trying to build a fortress, but make it better than nothing. The wall is far from even or perfect vertical and unless i drill straight into stone every kind of bracket will be likely stronger than the screw. The goal is really just something that best case will give a few extra seconds if some idiot tries to climb it. Pic rel is my final design, note the little chamfer pieces to the side, they make the bend wonderful. Considering this thing could lift my bodyweight+a little bit of rocking, it's already overkill all things considered.

>>2976841
What's your issue with nginx basic auth? The only real bad downside is default rules allowing bruteforce attacks. If you really wanna go all out, check Authelia. It's probably complete overkill, but lightweight enough to not matter.
Another 2cents from above, if you need higher temps or hardened nozzles, don't buy sovol's copper piece of shit "upgrade", just jump straight to flowtech. I don't know how (i assume it's more even temperature, but haven't tested it in detail yet), but it even gives you better layers with the default plated brass nozzle than the default one.

>>2976884
In all fairness we told you to sell it as soon you posted here and still you're judging the company for it's worst product in recent years. The SV06 ACE is literally MK4 in cheap. SV08 and zero suck at their hotends, sometimes quite literally, but are otherwise solid workhorses. Meanwhile >>2976811.

>>2976937
Those are fag printers too you fag.

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>>2976853
This was the answer, thank you. Still new to playing with slicer software so I had no idea the option existed. Pic rel is the result of just a few seconds of sanding, though it came out of the printer already acceptably smooth.

>>2976940
So it's projection. Good to clear that up.

>>2976938
>unless i drill straight into stone every kind of bracket will be likely stronger than the screw. The goal is really just something that best case will give a few extra seconds if some idiot tries to climb it.
Drill a hole, insert epoxy. Insert threaded rod, let epoxy set. Permanent threaded support point more secure than any anchor.

>>2976945
Is there anything left a burger won't violently fill with epoxy?

>>2976947
Yo mama.

>>2976841
I think your real problem is that you're living with an asshole.

>>2976939
Yeah, I remember the advice, but as I said at the time: I can't just resell my gf's birthday gift because it's suboptimal, sometimes one has to suffer for love. Again, the machine has been reliable once I fixed it, which can also be said of the SV08 and its extruder assembly. The issue here, which is what I'm judging Sovol on, is the fact they clearly skipped in depth testing just to push out yet another product, it's the fact that you're the one doing substantial QA at a hardware level. Also, fuck their marketing really.

>>2977020
youre not wrong. i just cant do anythiing about it.

>>2976939
i guess webdev habits? its not """best practice""", largely for a few reasons like that under HTTP, passwords are sent as b64 encoded plaintext. this isnt exactly an issue for me, but its not something that im comfortable with because thats just the same as sending the password in plaintext.

thanks for the heads up on sovol hardware. im sure the $X for something nicer is worth it if i need it.

>>2976903
do you know if this is from thermal expansion or slop in the mechanism? it seems like a very easy fix regardless, if i ever encounter it.

>>2976884
time is less of a factor for me than volume; im planning on printing personal projects, and not commercial products. should this all work out it may become commercial, but at that point id invest in something that takes up less of my time and effort.

the stock fan in the 08 is also stupid loud. even spawwing for a noctua NF-A4x10 its still loud af and im considering taking a cutting wheel to the bottom plate and installing a 140mm NF-A14 in there with some heatsinks on the chips instead. i have yet to deal with the company, but i hope i wont need to.

>>2976945
Yeah, that be probably for the best. Although i'm not very found of a permanent solution that might bite me in the ass later on. Gonna sleep on it, not like i'll be getting to it before the weekend.

>>2977032
>youre not wrong. i just cant do anythiing about it.
just setup a vlan for it and protect that vlan instead? Or setup main wifi as guest network that has client separation, which will give you similar effect.
Or use ethernet and connect directly with a 2nd network card to pc. I don't know your environment so it's hard to give advice.
Still, solving this type of issue with IT is usually not the way to go. It's like parents trying to solve their kids not listening to them by restricting internet access past curfew.

>>2977064
I missed the part where you said you can't control the router, I fail to see how basic auth helps here - how do you plan to enforce nginx proxy with auth being unskippable? and if you do control nginx, you can add and force https which then solves your plaintext issue.

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Anyone tried one of those treadmill conversion kits for an Ender? I like the idea of an infinite axis and making a ton of small stuff at once but they do seem kinda sketchy.

>>2977032
The real problem with the fan isn't that it's loud, it's that it's on full 100% the time. Change it to be temperature dependent and it's not a big deal.

>>2977026
You should stop clinging to your immature communication issues. It'll only end in feeling like an idiot two decades down the road anyway.

>>2977093
The beds are basically worn through in short time. Else it's really not that bad, besides designing and slicing your parts properly.

>>2977061
Leaving stuff elevated relying on questionable supports is a recipe for trouble later.

Gonna try to print some ancient unwrapped eSun marble PLA. At least 3 years old. Hope it doesn't print like shit, I've got it in my filament drier right now.

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>>2977169
Here's the probably finished design. Slightly angled face-plates on the front and back. The top goes flush against the underside of my glass PC desk. Volume knobs and such on the front.

Anyone have recommendations for where to buy aluminum T slot extrusions in the US? I want to build a enclosure table.

are there any toys that I could print that are suitable for a toddler? Or is it safer to just wait until my nephew is at least old enough not to put everything in his mouth?
I assume that solid, bulky shapes are strong enough to avoid being broken by a child, but the layer lines must be a breeding ground for bacteria

>>2977215
You can buy antibacterial PLA that have silver inside, or you could electroform the prints with copper, which is also antibacterial, though it would tarnish easily. There's the option of using a coating instead, I'd go for a conventional organic lacquer, I believe that's fully food-safe. Then you're free to put whatever you want underneath the lacquer, be it different plastics, paints, filler, magnets, etc.

>>2977217
a food-safe coating sounds like an excellent solution, thanks anon

>>2977215
It's a toddler and we're on diy, just go with the safe and established route of wooden toys. Whatever trip to the workshop you make will be more interesting than the toy itself anyway. In my experience they're happy with a spoon that fits in their mouth at all.

>>2977258
you are completely right, I didn't even have anything specific in mind I was just wandering if it was even feasible/advisable but the more I think about it the more I realize that it's probably not worth it

>>2977264
Yeah, shouldn't have sounded too harsh. Probably everyone here knows the urge to print for printing's sake.

>>2977131
>The beds are basically worn through in short time.
Figured I'd just make my own and thats the only sticking point. Not a lot of stuff thats available, flexible, sticks to PLA and wont disintegrate mid print. Some guy was making what looked like PEI coated spring steel belts in just the size I need but he closed up shop.

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>>2977278
dw you didn't sound harsh
>Probably everyone here knows the urge to print for printing's sake
yeah ideally one should print something only when it makes sense to do so but sometimes you just wanna use the printer for the sake of it lol
Lately I've been printing detailed models of local mountains to get it out of my system (pretty fun btw, would recommend)

>>2977288
Thats at least an artistic pursuit, way more admirable than printing a ton of funko tier pop culture crap you found on yeggi

>>2977295
idk how artistic it is since I only use the pure DEM data for accuracy's sake (otherwise you could scale the height for example to get a more dramatic effect), but the end product is fairly unique and my acquaintances have been appreciating them a lot

>>2977305
That seems like it'd be hella cool if you did that epoxy fill thing they do with chunks of driftwood to make tables. Paint the mountains a bit, inject some white epoxy while its liquid to make clouds maybe, sand it into a cube

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>>2977308
>inject some white epoxy while its liquid to make clouds
that's clever, I had considered using epoxy but not in the diorama-like way that you suggested, it would definitely be cool.
What I was thinking about was merely doing a silicone mould (should be super easy given the shape of mountains) and then just using it with epoxy while playing with colors and transparency, or brushing powder in the lowest parts of the mould to simulate snowy peaks. Glue them to a wooden base and you could sell them pretty easily I bet, but I don't have the time nor the hustle spirit for this so I'll stick to my low effort PLA models for now, haven't even bothered fixing the messy mesh of the 3D models at the base yet

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>>2977288
I was gonna say I’ve never felt the urge to print something just for the sake of it, but that’s probably because I’ve got a piece of shit modded ender.

>>2977308
There’s gotta be something else those diorama guys use to get thin, wispy clouds in their epoxy cubes. Pic related.

>>2977329
>add epoxy to a certain level
>poke a straw through the wet epoxy
>blow in a milk/water mixture
>add more epoxy on top

>>2977264
pssst anon, you can print a load of little contraptions then bolt them to a huge plank of wood so the kid cant get it in their mouth.
they call them stimboards or some shit, usually made from literal hardware store latches and knobs.
one my mate bought had a literal door chain dangling off it his kid could have totally swallowed, but the company is approved by a load of mothers groups here, so no-one bats an eye.
print a load of large scale figets with a rear mounting point and go wild.

>start 10 hour print
>notice dark molten filament between the heater block and heat-sink
Eh, it’s probably fine for now. But whatever hot end or printer I upgrade to, I want a monolithic nozzle + heat-break combo, something properly leak-proof. Like the nextruder nozzles, or unicorns.

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>>2977370
Actually turning out quite nice. Old esun marble filament, first print on an alibay K1 bed shoved atop my ender, seems to be sticking well at 65C.

>>2977341
thanks for the suggestion, I had never heard of stim boards so I don't think I would have ever thought about such a thing but it does sound safe
>>2977386
I got one of those cool plates or whatever they are called off of aliexpress and on it pla/pla+ sticks perfectly even with the bed at just 45°C, I wonder how much of a difference this makes in power saving

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>>2977370
Microswiss flowtech. Does the same thing as an MK4 nozzle, but is easier to change and unlike Prusa/E3Ds 32th layer coated specialanium they offer simple hardened steel tips.

Might turn into a shill for this, but i love this little nigger.

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>>2977400
>one of those cool plates
They do look pretty cool. The Biqu ones and the gecko-tape-like ones are kinda expensive, but it looks like other guys are coming out with cheaper equivalents, so I'll consider getting one.
Though I'd rather have something that makes PETG or TPU stick well without shredding my bed. My first alibay powder-coated bed never stuck for shit, maybe the flip side of this alibay K1 bed will.

>>2977407
They are nice looking, but microswiss certainly charge a lot. I've been on-and-off looking to see if anyone makes a cheaper alternative. The Unicorn seems to be the most ubiquitous, but I've had bad experiences with those heater blocks breaking, maybe the K2 Plus heat-breaks are better. Qidi has something that looks very similar for the Plus 4 but with a ceramic heat-break, and the Anycubic Cobra 3 Max has a completely threadless nozzle, I guess it locks in somehow. Given I've got a V6 heat sink clamped directly in my extruder housing, the only drop-in replacement I could find was pic related, but I've never heard of it. I can't even figure out where the design comes from, aside from probably originating as a 3rd party Bambu upgrade.

>>2975935
How to make money with an FDM? I can finally say I can print several materials consistently without making a mess now that I have a decent machine but I see a bunch of people in my area post listings of 3D printing services so I don't know how viable of a business this could be.
I'm not in a hurry to cover and pay for the machine thankfully but it would be useful to at least earn beer money and cover the filaments.
Do I avoid toys and slop? Advertise I'm making car parts or something? Prototypes?
I don't plan on making youtube videos to hope for views but st least I'm decent with CAD modeling.

>>2977413
>How to make money with an FDM
go back 10 years and build a print farm.
printers are a novelty now, everyone has a friend of a friend who prints, if you just need a basic thing made, you just ask your mate to ask their mate.
you either need the novelty of your own designs, or to mass produce.

>>2977415
Well I can't mass produce because I don't have 5 billion printers but I'm pretty sure other people around me don't either
I've made some knobs/buttons for a steering wheel for some guy's car because I guess he couldn't find them for sale but I don't think I can only rely on that

I wonder how those people publishing shit on printables and makerworld keep the lights on: I'm an engineer, being a CAD monkey is my dayjob, I know how long it takes to model, prototype, and refine products. Lots of stuff I see must take weeks of full time work to complete, it's not something one can just do after a 9 to 5. Where is the market for the shit they make? I WANT IN! I'M SICK AND TIRED OF 9 TO 5!

>>2977416
You kinda just want something useful and neat looking.
If you look on etsy there's people making pretty okay money doing cosplay props, gaming merch and random things like controller stands or shit like that.

>>2977417
The people doing it on Makerworld and whatever get coupons for giftcards if a certain amount of people print their shit, or boost them or whatever.
You can then use those gift cards to buy printers or other stuff.

>>2977417
i spend half my day at work daydreaming about the steps to make the part i'm working on, then bash it out in 2-3 hours between getting home and heading to bed.
i make models because i wanted to make a part, or a mate asked about a part, or i saw a part and figured "i could do that better"
its like making my own furniture, except i throw out less furniture this way.
yes i have a job in IT

>>2977417
>it's not something one can just do after a 9 to 5
some of the popular guys like SabreDesign on Makerworld don't seem to do anything that transcendental, that dude just found an eye-catching aesthetic that he probably has a quick workflow for and he keeps iterating on it. He got the equivalent of $50k in coupons for that, I wonder what he does with that

>>2977419
I guess I'll print some stuff for my 20 something year old BMW and post pictures of that so people see I can make parts, I guess a lot of potential customers don't even know that something they need can be printed, at least not here where this hobby isn't extremely popular

I know this is more of a CAD question but how do I copy a thread from an existing object and make it in a file so it can be printed?
I'll receive a sample of some sort of adjustable screw peg or whatever and I'll need to produce several of them.
I suck with blender but have used sw and autocad

>>2977433
It is standard size? Just use the hole tool on whatever CAD software you're using, copying it will take more time than just configuring one hole.

>>2977411
You're running a poor workers problem. Instead of buying leather boots that'll last several years and can be repaired for cheap, you're opting for paper boots.
What exactly is the point of comparing a quality product that competes with Prusa's nozzles to some creality shit with questionable QC, two hotends that aren't even made to be run on other machines and a fucking TZ out of all things? I want and comment a product that just works and if it fails has decent, or in these comparisons, support at all.
And if you compare just the nozzles, you'll see that the price gap gets a lot smaller anyway, once you tap into higher quality chinese manufacturers like Phaetus.

>>2977413
You don't. Any actual money is made by CAD for your locals. Farmers, especially, have all kinds of things breaking constantly. There you can tap in and shell out some PET-XF brackets. Bottom line is this yet another connections gig at best.

>>2977433
Just measure the pitch, width and generate it in your project.

>>2977417
Can you link some of that CAD stuff that must take weeks of full time?

>>2977446
Nta but certain kind of parts are way more annoying and tedious to work on than you'd expect, especially the plain looking ones

>>2977443
>some creality shit with questionable QC
My entire printer is creality shit with questionable QC
>two hotends that aren't even made to be run on other machines
No other nozzles are meant to run on my machine in the first place, I’d have to be doing at least some custom work one way or the other. The fact that the flowtech is designed to work with multiple different printers hardly makes a difference if my printer isn't one of them.
>a fucking TZ
Again, never heard of it. If it’s a 3rd party bambu or Voron upgrade by trianglab or whoever I assumed it might be decent, but I’d want to see a proper impartial comparison before buying anything like it.
>support
If I were running a print farm or spent Prusa dollars on my printer, I’d definitely agree with you, but honestly I tinker with my printer all the time anyhow, running a Chinese V6 kit that leaks all the time. Seems like a pretty low bar to meet.

Not even including the heat-sink, it’s 47 USD for a nozzle with a hardened insert. Getting a heat-sink + heater assembly coats at least $127, it comes with a 0.4mm brass nozzle which I’d seldom use.
A full TZ kit is $15, and the nozzles are $5 each, all with nice hardened inserts by default. The K2 Plus and Qidi Plus 4 and Cobra 3 Max options are similarly priced too, though would need mounting brackets. It’s literally ten times cheaper, if I buy that and decide microswiss was the way to go after all, it’s just 10% more than it would be otherwise.
>if you compare just the nozzles, you'll see that the price gap gets a lot smaller anyway
Even Phaetus’s fancy plated K2 nozzles are but $12 each, Trianglab’s TZ nozzles are $14 and their Cobra 3 nozzles are $8.

>Get into 3D printing.
>Buy a Bambu P1S
>Sell some prints.
>Get enough money for a P2S.
>Can't really talk to anyone about it because they get mad at me because muh privacy or something.

I don't really get why this particular topic causes so much autism.
I'm not going to say that having an overlord decide what you can or can't print is good. But it's a lot of hot air until anything actually happens.

>>2977490
>running a Chinese V6 kit that leaks all the time
Enough said.
>a fucking TZ
A glory product of taobao, as in some rando outside of the usual names came up with it and now you find it under 20 different brands. A quick glance on other forums should tell it's the spinning wheel of QC. Everything from works just fine to the clip magically crawled up inside the socket is in there. Not sure if it was Modbot, Needitprintin, or some other youtuber, but someone showed you're better off using a default bambu nozzle, both in speed and quality, than a TZ mod.

>>2977496
When was the last time you met a likeable applefag who just announced he's going to buy the next iphone?

Aw yeah, just a test-fit with no electronics inside, but it’s looking good. Marble PLA seems to be a decent compromise between looking good (i.e. hiding my awful horizontal banding) and being strong. Matte PLA apparently has pretty bad layer adhesion, not as bad as silk, but still much worse than normal PLA.

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>>2977506
Forgor

>>2977507
dang looks like steel

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>>2977507
>>2977522
Bad photo, it’s a PLA enclosure of sides and bottom, with aluminium front and back plates. Here’s it with the guts installed, going to test it now.

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>>2977534
Aww yeah, it works perfectly. The button glows red normally, but goes green when my phone is plugged in. Pushing the momentary button is a pause/play control for the phone, the momentary toggle is volume up/down for the phone. The big dial is headphone volume, the two sockets on the front are for 6.3mm and 3.5mm headphones. At the back are the audio inputs to the summing amplifier, the microphone in/out sockets, and the line-out sockets.

Though the LED is a bit bright, I should change that.

>>2977534
I really like the system you used to fix it to the bar, very slick

>>2977540
Thanks. Not sure how well it will hold long-term, considering it’s putting PLA under constant force. I hear standard PLAs are kinda creep-resistant, while many PLA plus mixtures are not, I’m unsure which category this marble PLA fits into. Also I forgot to increase the number of walls for the clamping parts. I should print some of those MyTechFun creep test hooks. At least the force when I push a button is into the main body, not into the clamps. If it does fail, I can always reprint the clamping piece in PETG or whatever, I also have another model for the clamping piece that has a strip of metal protruding over the top of the bar so even if it fails it should remain clamped. Maybe a thin sleeve of TPU would help, it does seem a bit too easy to slide around, but my 95A isn’t exactly grippy. Gluing on some inner-tube rubber might be smarter.

I did try to nickel-plate a piece of copper-clad FR4 for a sheen that would better match the chrome of the buttons, but it came out bad since I added some thiourea. Hence the aluminium / chrome mismatch.

>>2977543
PLA is quite stiff and the marble version should be too, its only difference from the normal colors is having little pieces of some other plastic with a higher melting point (like PET), which I guess makes it a bit more brittle.
PLA+ on the other hand tends to be more elastic because it's usually PLA mixed with PETG and who knows what else.
Unless those electronics are heavier than they look I bet it's gonna hold up for years, but since the protrusions that hold it up are quite small I guess they might snap if you were to accidentally hit the box with some strength, hardly a big concern tbqh

>>2977546
the problem is that PLA tends to creep.
so if its under preasure it will deform slowly until its not under tension, because its bent.
room temp PLA acts more like cheese than actual plastic.

>>2977413
I have about 10 bambu printers going nonstop. Not going to give you my meta as im still growing it, but I would focus on piggybacking off popular IP. I do probably $50k in sales after being at this for 6 months. The people doing $100k are making shit like pokemon themed trading card boxes, pokemon fidgets, disney character shit, harry potter shit, etc etc. They never get DMCA'ed either. Theres a ton of volume on this stuff and apparently etsy does not police it. You have to be served by the IP holder for a takedown.

My current method is pretty difficult to replicate, but is probably pretty evergreen. The IP method probably sees lots of fluctuations but is probably pretty damn easy.

>>2977417
I think a lot of these people are highly paid and or are trust fund babbies. They do it as a hobby rather than a financial pursuit. They just like building stuff and want their stuff out there and used by a ton of people. I rather gatekeep, because like you said, this stuff takes time to design and prototype, and im trying to get out of the rat race, not stay in it.

>>2977548
true that, I guess that the simplest solution in this case would be applying rubber strips and making it so that the clamping force itself is holding up most of the weight

>>2977548
Creep is stress-dependent. If you made a PLA coat rack, it would creep noticeably over time. Here, the clamping pressure will probably drop as the plastic deforms where it meets the screws, but the bearing pressure on the lips from the weight of the enclosure will be way less.

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>>2977553
my concern is that the entire weight it held on the little fingers that go over the top, there's not a lot of meat on those to prevent warping.
im not sure how much the clamping force is really adding on that smooth bar.

>>2977554
imo some rubber on the clamps would be enough, but your strip of metal idea would be the strongest option by far since you could embed it quite deep on both sides

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>>2977554
It’s seeming as if the metal bar isn’t square to the glass desk, resulting in the clamp making only point-contact with it. From a creep perspective, these points will slowly deform to make the force more uniform, which I suspect will be acceptable. What might not be acceptable is any creepage of the heat-set inserts out of the clamp housing.

>>2977557
Yeah rubber is almost certainly a good idea. The clamping force is set such that the thing doesn’t move about, the friction of the rubber will reduce that required force, in addition to spreading the force out. But I can’t put the aluminium on both sides, only the moving jaw can have any, and even then it can only extend by 5mm or so. Otherwise it won’t be assemblable without taking the glass top off the desk.

I’ll open it up tomorrow after work if I’ve got the time, and fix that LED resistor while I’m at it.

On that note, I just looked into high-grip filaments. Seems like the best ones out there are the foaming variable shore-hardness elastomers, but they're still not great compared to a proper cast resin. Silicone, polyurethane, and latex came up. Maybe over-moulding resin using a syringe in a mould atop a 3D print with interlocking geometry is worth looking into, for applications where super-gluing a piece of inner-tube isn't durable enough.

But I'll look a bit more into different TPUs, PEBAs, and other TPEs. And by that I mean scouring MyTechFun vids. Should probably pay for his patreon eh.

>>2977558
honestly anon, if you're covering up the front with the aluminium, just toss a ziptie over the top and secure it to something inside, it'll catch the box if it does slip off.
nothing worse than spending 20 hours refining a design, fit heat sets, assemble all the bits, only to have it fall off overnight and need to reprint the thing.

>>2977561
That’s probably a good idea too, though for accessibility I think I’d use a thin wire instead. Gotta be long enough that I can remove and re-place the enclosure enough to tie and untie it. Also somehow I didn’t think to use magnets, embedding them into the jaws would ensure it never falls off even if the grabby fingers release, while remaining easy to decouple the enclosure from the desk.

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>>2976656
>>2976691
>>2976746
So, it ended up being none of the things I previously thought were the issue. I was cleaning some nooks underneath the bed with a vacuum when I heard something start clanging inside the vacuum. It was a little 4x8x3 bearing that goes in the extruder on one of the driving gears's shaft. There's supposed to be two on that shaft, so it had ever so slightly more play than it should when torque was applied. Funny that it hasn't been an issue or required any adjustments since it has gone missing.
Last time I took that extruder apart was sometime in May of last year, and it's been fine without it. Only when it came to 0.8mm nozzle and PLA did it become an issue following retractions. I mainly use ABS/abs-gf/cf, and that was fine with any nozzle.
>.8mm can move a lot of material.
yah. It's always amusing seeing a 3kg spool move this fast.

They're trying to backdoor ban 3D printing
https://www.dont-ban-3dprinters.com/

>>2977600
is this 'they' in the room with us right now anon?

>>2977606
No they're in CA, WA, NY, and CO

I bought a creality K1C 2025. It arrived today with no wifi. Internet said I should update the firmware. Downloaded most recent version from creality and it doesn't install. I managed to make a slight upgrade from 1.0.0.24 to 1.0.0.26, via some old firmware version I got from creality cloud but can't make any other updates after that. On creality cloud the firmware I downloaded was under mainboard version CR4SU200382C13 and it's the newest for that board.
I don't care for their fancy features or whatever spyware they're putting in the newest updates but I need wifi for lan printing. Is there any other way to update this? I did format a pendrive to FAT32 with blocks sized 4096 bytes as they instruct on their video. Still no updates.

>>2977606
Nah, but they do live amoung us. They rub their hands a lot and have oversized noses.

>>2977560
>But I'll look a bit more into different TPUs, PEBAs, and other TPEs. And by that I mean scouring MyTechFun vids. Should probably pay for his patreon eh.
Every time i almost got myself convinced to paypig i realised i really just wanna know the difference between three filaments at best. So it always deteriorated into lunch videos.

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we swam too close to the sun

>>2977606
it's legislation along the lines of making pi equal 3 but it's happening.

>>2977554
>the entire weight
Which is what, a pound? Should be negligible for that setup, even with PLA. There's little meat, but there's also very little load and a very small moment arm. If you put actual numbers to a stress calculation and compared the fingers vs the bearing surfaces of the screws, you may be surprised.

>im not sure how much the clamping force is really adding on that smooth bar.
Could be plenty on its own to hold it up, but the design doesn't require any. Just snugging it up will probably put more stress on the screws than on the fingers. I mentioned this because the relaxing of the initial clamp is what you could realistically expect as a consequence of creep.

>>2977557
>some rubber on the clamps
Rubber creeps too. It's just not commonly talked about because you don't use rubber when you want dimensional stability.

>>2977600
>barely 300 signatures
pfft
hope rossmann or whoever spotlights it before the deadline

>>2977636
Probably half a pound. I think the print was 180g of PLA, can’t be more than double that. My main fear is having to unscrew the face-plate to tighten the clamps every week or two.

Rubber creeping isn’t an issue if it creeps fast enough, at a low enough applied force, and is limited to a distance proportional to its thickness. A 0.5mm piece of rubber should be fine.

>>2977621
My K1C lists off nearby wifi networks from the device screen and I connected by logging in with my normal wifi password, from there it tells you its IP and you can connect to it with any software with that IP. Does yours not have that option?

>>2977642
why don't you wait until it falls off to worry about the sky falling? also personally I'd solve it with some double sided poster tape, that is if it was slipping in the first place which seems like is all fucking conjecture at this point.

>>2977642
>My main fear is having to unscrew the face-plate to tighten the clamps every week or two.
This is what it looks like when PLA creeps.
https://youtu.be/88pk2cNOeGE
Your situation is nowhere close.

>>2977644
It didn't, but I fixed it by downgrading the firmware and then updating again.
What the firmware version of yours? Do you have it connected to creality cloud? I plan on keeping mine off of it.

>>2977650
1.0.0.2.2, I got it this last black friday and never had to touch the firmware. I havent gone anywhere near their cloud shite and hopefully never will.

>>2977654
Great. I intend to stay the hell away from that shit as well. From your version it seems they don't push updates if you don't connect to it, which what gonna be my next question.

>>2977646
It slides side to side, which I’d rather it not do.

>>2977648
At the moment with the very point-like forces I’ll guess I will see some creep, but the bulk of the model shouldn’t creep even if it’s just two walls. I don’t expect anything that would cause it to fall off unless I accidentally knee the thing.

>>2977679
binder clip, c-clamp next to it or the aforementioned tape. or as others said rubber.

taking it apart to adjust/tighten is annoying next design make the clamp close as you tighten screws from the bottom with a 45º slope, then the tightening is external and not in the back. I do also like the system just not that it's internal.

Anyone have experience with pausing prints and embedding little magnets? Want to make a product with embedded magnets but it sounds like its simple but maybe in reality its cursed.

>>2977687
depends on if your hot end can attract a magnet.
i needed to swap out my hardened steel nozzle for a brass one last time i printed something with embeded magnets.
only other issue is if theres enough magnets close enough together to pull them together.

>>2977687
leaving a peg hole and plugging it later with magnet + glue seems far easier and less effort intense.

>>2977691
it's more work but can't you just use a drop of superglue? Should start curing quickly enough to prevent the magnet from being picked up by the nozzle, as long as it's not a super powerful one at least

>>2977699
>but can't you just use a drop of superglue?
Yes. A dab of accelerator can help it bond immediately.
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/0dXET3xxr4I

Dont make the same mistake i did by getting a bambu get a voron.

>>2977702
Before they ban it

>>2977682
>next design make the clamp close as you tighten screws from the bottom with a 45º slope, then the tightening is external and not in the back
Ah, that is an elegant solution. I haven't done 3D printed ramps before, maybe a bell-crank would be suitable instead, but a slope definitely spreads the load out across a wider area.
What you see was my first design idea, I didn't spend any time iterating it. Which, as always, was a mistake. Once I figured out how to clamp it, I figured that was the hard part and stopped asking critical design questions.

Anyhow, I added the rubber, it's absolutely solidly clamping on my desk now. But now because I also added rubber on the bottom surface as well as the two clamping sides, the whole thing sits a tiny bit lower than normal, and at some angles I can see down into the enclosure. Maybe I'll print little wedges, or glue more rubber, to change the effective clamping angle to amend that.

So someone shared this onshape cad model, but i cant seem to figure out how to download it?

https://cad.onshape.com/documents/29f0c8357189364282b6888d/w/488b5369c7eb3e5644a30eb4/e/061711b9dee6d37ef153adba

>>2977708
rightclick the part tab and export

>>2977633
Bambufags are always so proud of how easy it is for them to misprint a batch of garbage.

>>2977713
i have a prusa but i'm getting rid of it and going chink instead, they just work. 3D printing as a hobby aint for me, my hobby is CAD.

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>>2977711

No such option.

>>2977715
3d printers will never be just werks. Bambus are divas. Theyll work but do anything as much as swap a nozzle and youll get errors and thise errors will not let you pass even if you know full well its fine. Vorons are honest about whst 3d printers are. Janky pieces of shit. The same say arch linux is honest about what linux is.

>>2977718
On the tab at the bottom.

>>2977713
You're probably not even here to talk printing. You're only here to talk shit on people who don't do what you like.

>>2977727
I figured it out. You have to be logged in before you can export. So found an account i could use, and now i got it.

>>2977702
>mistake
>bambu
you're doing it wrong

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>>2977713
I know imagine waking up to this, my day is RUINED.

also the error was in orca slicer, the new fill bed is a fucking dumpster fire.

>>2977738
>So found an account i could use
you know they're free right?

>>2977719
all I know is the bambu at work has been running every day for over a year, operated by 8 different chefs using different materials all the time and it just werks

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So my mother has this dog that has cataracts, and she's asking me for like a helmet for it, so it wond bump into stuff, but light and without limiting his visibility further
This is what i have in mind
Thoughts?

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>>2977747
think more designing sockets for feelers that aren't printed. whiskers or those 1970's curb feelers on cars. the wisker itself could be a lot of things but you want it light and flexible so maybe like a zip tie or a flat two layer print the same size. not sure how much stupid the dog is and how much force. remember you want it to be able to ignore them and eat or lay down so they should be flexible from a socket. this also allows you to print them to length. the "clip" doesn't need to be more than a tight square. big wide foot, loop around collar and possibly round spikes to transmit the bumps through fur.

>>2977754
Get yourself a smooth plate if you want that stuff shiner, btw.

>>2977744
>Aye, re-strike the doubloons with the Jolly Roger.
>But cap'n-
>And be quick about it. I want them ready to bury when we reach the atoll.

Anyone has experience leaving printed parts outside, under sun and rain?
About a week ago I printed some test samples (simple rectangles) and left them outside. I made two, one out of PLA and another of ABS. The sun is scorching hot in here, today I got a sunburn from about half an hour in direct sunlight.
So far the results is that PLA tends to warp under the sun (for some reason it sort of unwarps itself after a while, it's almost back to flat now) and ABS has taken it like a champ and is perfectly fine so far. I tried bending or breaking it and it seems to be just as strong as it was when printed.

>>2977763
I've only used pet and abs for things that are to go outside, though I do have a petg print that has been on my car for nearly five years now through summer and winter and hasn't seen any noticeable degradation. though for what it's worth it has no load on it.

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>>2977752
I like where you are going, some like this then, I think she has one of this things, they could be a good whisker

How worried should I be about 3D printing legislation, really? Won't there always been an open source firmware to flash? Ways around x, y, and z? What exactly is worst case scenario?

>>2977772
If you live in a free country, you have nothing to worry about.

>>2977763
I had a PLA mailbox handle in direct sun for ~900 days before it crumbled. when it crumbled it just went. I use PETG for shit in my car but even that melts on the dash and I need ASA for GPS mounts. I have a fair amount of other stuff outside but it's never in sunlight. PETG is UV resistant but since my mailbox handle lasted 3 years it was easy enough just to fire another PLA off in a nice color since my ASA was toothpaste green at the time.

Oh I've also done a bunch of PLA on the outside of a vehicle on a roadtrip and it was all on black parts and they all glassed and deformed super quick in the sun. Similar experience with GPS unit inside, the real problem wasn't the dash temp but the black unit temp.

>>2977772
it's unenforceable billslop but it's going to fuck a lot of stuff up as manufacturers try to comply and being offline is ever more difficult. it won't stop anyone from printing guns but it's going to retard advances and punish all of us trying to print princess peach (TM) dildos.

>>2977773
name three, preferably ones that accept US visas

>>2977773
Not at all what I asked. This affects everyone.

>>2977772
Its mostly hot air. Their platform/party/big-donators dictate that they have to attack certain freedoms. They don't expect to win, but putting in enough effort to get a bill in the news will satisfy the minorities they are pandering to and look good when they are up for re-election.

>>2977774
Dark colours are more resistant to UV, but cause the object to heat up more in the sun. Such is the dilemma. But I bet PLA would last outdoors just fine if you painted it with a light-coloured exterior house/car paint, if the print geometry allows for that sort of treatment.

>>2977778
>Its mostly hot air.
no it's poorly worded overreach that will widely impact a lot of areas. you chuckle but the way it's written you won't be able to have a silhouette (cricut) because it's not networked to ensure you're not cutting vinyl guns. is it going to immediately make your printer shit the bed and stop printing your boomer slop? no, but it is going to affect you and the whole space widely. shit son, nothing is even grandfathered. when they took away hi-cap mags in colorado AT LEAST they grandfathered existing hardware. fucking open your eyes kid, if you are a maker of any sort this is going to affect you and the worst part is it's completely fucking stupid.

>>2977779
it's a shame the dark ones just don't work that well.

>>2977804
Be nice if there was a way for the SCOTUS to pre-emptively analyse and veto a state law for being unconstitutional. Instead of having to wait years for some poor criminalised bastard to get dragged through higher and higher courts.
Maybe a class-action could do something, but that would also take ages, and before any alleged harm there’s be no damages to pay out, and hence no money for the lawyery to suck up.

>>2977804
What are they gonna do, arrest me if my wifi drops for 6 hours and they cant see what im printing? Be real, unenforceable laws are nothing but talking points for politicians.

>>2977804
Fuck off to pol.

>>2977805
Don't work in what way? Black is usually just carbon powder.

>>2977812
Least obvious derailing shill

>>2977812
Fuck off back to Olympia/Sacramento

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>>2977752
>>2977770
This is the what it how it turned out, it worked
I will refined it, i think changing the clamp for something else since its too small, and while my scaredy mom objects i think the round spike at the bottom must be added

>>2977808
Can’t wait for the offline printer buyback schemes, time to trade in my ender 3 and original photon mono for some taxpayer money. I should 3D print some technically functional resin printers like Sean Hodgins did to cram into a Christmas ornament.

>>2977831
turn the clips 90º and turn them into rectangular tubes that barely fit the wires. I'm concerned if the dog will feel anything without thicker whiskers.

>>2977812
>the black ones don't work
come on anon

>>2977804
Just because it can’t be reasonably enforced on everyone it might apply to, doesn’t mean it won’t be used selectively on perceived dissidents. I suspect it would be used specifically against:
>anyone hosting firearm adjacent cad files
>sufficiently large 3D printing and machine shop businesses
>anyone selling 3D printers and CNC machines
>anyone they don’t like

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>>2975935
I'm contemplating assembling my own 3d printer using arduino shields for control. Is this a bad idea and if yes, why

>>2977861
How do you intend to handle firmware?

>>2977861
its probably cheaper, and less trouble to just use a dedicated mainboard.
or, if you want, you could build yourself a ramps board and tophat it on a uno.

>Finally proud enough to publish my first polished design to printables
>10 hearts in 12hours
Hell yeah, soon i'll eat cad monkeys breakfast.

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belt? lead screw? ball screw? my 3D printer will have planetary screws and none of you can stop me

>>2977875
What issues are you trying to fix by using those?

>>2977878
noise, purely. they are quieter than belts.

>>2977879
Why not use a standard lead screw?

>>2977879
Please post proof.

>>2977875
Very cool. Why not Igus' lead screw nuts? Very little backlash, silent, self lubricating, no maintenance required either.

>>2977868
what do you mean
>>2977871
I have some kind of analogous module. I'm certain I'd get the printer running on this because there's ton of tutorials out there but I'm asking for unpleasant stuff that noone mentions - why people buy 3d printers instead of assembling them with arduino hats? Is it just because printers are cheap enough nowadays and people are too lazy/busy or is there an actual drawback to diy printers that make it not worth it?

>>2977901
At that stage, don't even bother. It'll be a bottomless timesink.

>>2977904
WHY though? I can calculate if I can afford to fuck with problems, I want to know what they are

>>2977885
should arrive on thursday or friday, will post a video when assembled
>>2977884
>>2977890
>why not lead screws
i'm not gay.

>>2977861
You could install Marlin onto an 8-bit AVR if it has enough GPIOs, you might need to mess about with the pinout a bit. But these days 32-bit mainboards are much preferred because they can process signals much faster. Silent stepper drivers imply high levels of microstepping, which requires quite a lot of pulses per second. Not to mention more advanced features like pressure-advance and input-shaping and such. The Marlin website itself will probably have a good breakdown of what’s possible with an 8-bit board vs a 32-bit board.

>>2977901
Plenty of people still make printers. Voron, RatRig, HevORT, take your pick. These are high-end coreXY machines built for speed and heavy use. Not only do they use 32-bit mainboards, but also a single-board-computer like a Raspberry Pi. You could also build a switchwire or an electron, but you’re putting in 80% of the effort in wiring it up and configuring and tuning it, no real reason not to go all the way with an enclosed printer that can print its own ABS parts.

>>2977901
>unpleasant stuff that noone mentions
needing to make your own custom firmware for the drivers and hats you use because no-ones put them in klipper yet.
also, keep in mind printers do a LOT of short, quick actions, which is pretty stressful to components, its why stepper drivers usually need heatsinks and come as seperate modules, so you can swap em out when they burn out.

my major concern for you anon, is that you're at the level of programming where you can make an arduino move some servos and maybe a stepper, and now you're looking for something to do with that information, as opposed to being someone who is into building their own precision machinery and has the necessary skills.

i suggest you build the printer using a dedicated board, then if that is still distasteful to you, swap it out for a pile of arduinos, because once you get the actual frame of the printer build, and the wires run, you can literally just plug the motors and hotend into another mainboard.

i did it for my voron2.4 when i found the btt octopus to be underperforming on longer prints.

make a working device, then ruin it, at least that way you will have a working printer to print fan shrouds and mounts for the new circuitry.

>>2977907
Anon, the problem is that you're asking WHY you cant lubricate your car engine with olive oil, and swap the fanbelt out with your suit belt.
Sometimes the issue is so self evident that instead of listing HOW the oil will foul, or carbonize, or leak, or eat away at the seals, its better to just tell you its a bad idea, and move on.
Arduinos are best used for small projects that wont meet a lot of stresses.
Printers are crack addicts of the machine world, and WILL rattle themselves and components to pieces.

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installed my p1s and used it for a month with the fan cable disconnected, no real issues. however now i've hooked the fan back up and this very simple print I've done multiple times is now super stringy every time. obviously has to do with the cooling fan. suggestions?

this is the only print i'm really seeing it in, but it's one i expect to use more

>>2977958
A fan is good most of the time, but can cause issues in specific places. Learn to use dynamic fan settings, either in your slicer or in gcode.