>>28846930
>what happens if I get it towed to a shop and their quote is too high? Do I have to call a tow every time to take it to other shops for quotes?
You'll be disappointed to find out that the second shop will give a similar quote, and both shops will charge you for diagnosis.

>>28846960
so the trick is to pick a shop and hope its not going to rip you off?

>>28846973
Look at reviews and hope for the best.

>>28846930
don't just replace parts, diagnose the problem. you can absolutely DIY it yourself if you're not an absolute retard and we are glad to guide you.
what is the make/model/approx year? what exactly is the car doing when you attempt to start it? are there any error messages/lights on the dash? have you connected a code reader to read the codes (they're like $20 for a basic $100 for an amazing one, no excuse for anyone to not own one)

>>28846989
This. What exactly are the symptoms?

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>>28846989
>>28846991

03 Avalon
Car will not start even with a full tank of gas. Its currently sittting in the apartment parking lot with no eletrical access so any jacking and serious work isnt possible.

I replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator, it did not fix it
When I turn the key I can hear slight combustion before dying, if I press on the accelerator while turning the key the engine makes the rev sound and white smoke comes out the exhaust the engine does not start. I have been having EVAP problems, its possible theres too much gas vapors or something causing the engine to not get proper fuel.

I have codes P0446, P0441.which seem to indicate a purge solenoid on the charcoal canister which is under the body near the fuel tank. There are VSVs under the hood but I cant find a consensus on which ones this code refers to. pic related is from a while ago, the small evap leak code doesnt show up anymore but the other two do

>>28846995
do you hear the fuel pump priming from the trunk when you turn the key to on before cranking?
have you pulled a coil and spark plug and held it against something metal and grounded and had someone crank the engine to see if the engine is making spark?
does it have a tachometer? if so does it jump to a couple hundred RPM as you crank or does it stay on 0?

>>28847000
toyotas dont prime on ON, but it does prime when turning to start and I can hear it hum. When I disconnect the fuel line from the fuel assmebly there is pressurized gas that comes out.
I havent checked the coils yet but I can do that, spark plugs are new as of Sept 2024. can you explain more what the process is that youre describing?
Tachy does go up and I can get the rpms up to 6-7 on pedal to the floor while cranking, and when I do thick white smoke comes out the exhaust

>>28847014
https://i.imgur.com/kM3loXF.mp4

heres a video, first time is just key only, second time is key + pressing accerator.

>>28847016
unplug your mass air flow sensor and your coolant temperature sensor, will it start with those unplugged?

also was it running poorly when you parked it, or was it running perfectly, then you went to start it and nothing?
also you've checked codes since it's been broken down right? and its still only the evap codes?

>>28846973
No, you're working backwards. Call the garage and tell them you're looking to get it towed to theirs. Most garages will offer this service for a reduced fee. Alternatively, ask if they can come out and take a look before you get it towed, you'll have to pay for the call out but if they can get it rolling its cheaper than the towing fee or they'll tow it to theirs for the necessary work.

your purge valve might be stuck open, basically creating a vacuum leak by trying to suck all of the air out of your fuel tank.

take the purge valve out of the equation. disconnect it electrically and also disconnect it from the intake manifold. make sure you plug the hole to the intake manifold, otherwise you're just creating a vacuum leak.

does it start and run when you do this?

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>>28846930
I work for AAA. Most AAA clubs only cover 1 tow per breakdown. Towing from 1 shop to another for price is not considered "emergency road service" and therefore not covered under AAA. Get it towed to the right place the first time.

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>>28847026
It was running fine the day it happened
>car was parked for 6 days
>went out to start it, no issues
>let it idle for about 3 mins, turn off and go back inside
>go outside 4 hours later to turn on car, and it stalls immediately

>>28847047
smart. there are a row of mechanic shops about 1/2 mile from here I can look at each one for reviews and pick one. I would only need the tow for a short distance.

>>28847055
i need to find the purge valve under the hood. I have this diagram under the hood. is it one of these?

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>>28847243
https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/2003-avalon-evap-system-diagram.135814/

your diagram is a little confusing relative to the diagram shown in the above link, but i think you want to plug up (temporarily) the blue vacuum ports directly above the word "actuator" in your diagram.

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>>28847243
nta but it's pic rel
but i would first do >>28847022
if your coolant sensor is telling the engine it's fully warmed up (which is the default failure mode) when trying to start, it's going to run too lean and feel like it's running out of fuel, unplugging it will put the computer in a failsafe mode that will run whether or not the engine is warmed up
unplugging your MAF sensor will turn off the entire fuel mixture feedback loop so if it's a bad MAF or bad O2 sensor reading, it'll take those out of the equation.

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>>28847267
The area in the top circle?

>>28847271
Is that also what I have boxed in red? I replaced that part in 2023

>>28847283
if you want to test that anon's theory unplug the tank vent going to it and cap it off and see if it starts, or remove it completely and cap all the lines, but I don't think even if stuck open it could generate enough of a vacuum leak to make the car not start imo

>>28847283
yes the top right circle is what i was talking about.

you might also try following this >>28847271 anon's advice. obviously do one thing at a time so you aren't changing multiple variables at once.

>>28847301
>>28847284

Okay so to be sure understand
>test 1
unplug MAF and Coolant sensor
try to start car

>test 2
unplug MAF and Coolant sensor
plug up two vacuum ports
try to start car

>test 3
unplug MAF and Coolant sensor
unplug the PWM vsv
try to start car

>>28847312
i'd do literally 1 thing at a time, try to start, then put that thing back, then try the next thing then try to start. you don't want too many variables.

(i'm 70% confident it's going to be either your coolant temp sensor went bad or something crawled into the sensor wire of your maf sensor)

>>28847312
>>28847316
if none of those do it, i would add unplugging your cam position sensor to the list of things to try. let us know how it goes.

>>28847316
>>28847319
one more addition, make sure it's the coolant temperature sensor the ECU uses, and not the temperature sensor that runs the dashboard coolant gauge. some cars have two different sensors.

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>>28847322
im guessing its this

>>28847322

car battery fucking died. thats what happens when this car has been down now for over 2 weeks. the battery is probably weak. im getting someone to help me out and jump and I will let you know, but what I can say so far is just taking off the MAF sensor does not make a difference.

i will give updates once the car is getting jumped

Update
MAF, coolant sensor and vsv disconnected, no change, car does not start, the rumble noise different I will post video link soon

>>28847267
Update
Plugging up this hose allowed to engine to briefly start before slowly stalling and dying.

>>28846930
mobile mechanics exist
>I've replaced all the parts I'm capable of doing
don't be a nigger and actually diagnose it

>>28847370
Update
By holding the hoses shut that lead to te actuator, the car will run at very low RPM around 200 for as long as i hold the hoses shut. Releasing the hoses causes the engine to die

>>28847376
Update
Video 1 showing the low RPMs with the MAF disconnected, and actuator hoses blocked
https://imgur.com/a/8CVFjk2
Video 2 showing under the hood, hoses not blocked, low RPMs but engine does run.
https://imgur.com/a/B2G2mHz

>>28847370
>>28847376
confused by how plugging it up yields a start and die, and then "holding it shut" yields a shitty idle but no stall. what are you holding shut?

>>28847393
video 2 you are creating a vacuum leak and your MAF is disconnected so it's basically running open loop while sucking in excess air from the atmosphere.

physically plug the two metal vacuum ports you disconnected with your fingers, while the car is running. does the engine performance improve? now try it with the MAF plugged in.

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>>28847394
>>28847394

I wasnt doing it right so let me explain again after the fact.

I unplugged the MAF and the two hoses that go to the actuator, the first time i had my helper start the car my finger slipped off the hose and I thougth the car engine stalled again.
However I found that even if I didnt hold my finger over the hoses, the engine still started and idled at 200rpm.

The second video here >>28847393
shows the engine chugging with only the MAF disconnected and my fingers not over the actuator hoses. When did hold the hoses it was like pic related - I blocked the path towards the actuator, and not the two nipples on the throttle body

>>28847402
does the fact the engine is running mean the that fuel is is getting from the tank to the engine now?

>>28847047
based helpful human

>>28847405
you need to block the metal nipples. the hoses to the left are irrelevant for the purpose of this test.
>>28847408
it sounds like your fuel system is fine. you're now trying to determine if your MAF is fucked up OR if the MAF is working fine and you have a vacuum leak.

>>28847405
it sounds like the MAF could be the culprit. put everything else back together. does it still start with the MAF unplugged? if so take the MAF out, run to vatozone and buy some MAF cleaner spray. spray it out thoroughly and let it dry for 20 minutes, then reconnect it and plug it in. does the car run? great, it's fixed. does it still stall? it's likely bad. you can confirm this by putting your scan tool into live data mode and reading the grams per sec while you're cranking.

if the MAF is bad, do not replace it with an aftermarket unit, get a Toyota OEM or Denso either new from the dealer (or rockauth) or used from a junkyard. DO NOT buy the autozone brand or the mystery chinese brand from amazon.

>>28847453
>>28847414

Standby, its dark out now and my helper is gone so I need to get a headlamp and something to plug up the holes and go out and take a look

>>28847483
good luck, anon. im going to bed but i'll check the thread in the morning.

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>>28847483
You are gonna figure this out bro. Even though it's frustrating in the moment, you learn the most here.

>>28847526
not to complicate things but if you figure out the car will only run if it has a vacuum leak, that indicates a rich condition that the vacuum leak is leaning out, perhaps a leaking fuel injector. if your scan tool has a live data mode to see things like fuel trims that will be helpful.
also, keep in mind if you scan for codes you will have circuit codes for anything you've unplugged, don't panic if that happens, just clear them

>>28847526
>>28847453
If I put my fingers over the metal holes on the throttle body the engine dies. MAF is unplugged. Is that supposed to happen?

>>28847561
what happens if you put everything back to how it was from the factory, except leave the MAF unplugged?

>>28847561
>>28847571
ill check in a moment, link to video here
https://i.imgur.com/Dj2TgEz.mp4

>>28847594
there's no chance that your air filter is clogged up or a mouse built a nest in the airbox that is blocking airflow so the engine in starving for air?

>>28847571
the engine dies again and sputters out.
>>28847599
i dont see how there could be anything blocking air on the intake, I dont smell any dead animals or feel anything in there.

i keep thinking about these codes here >>28846995? could this be connected to airflow issues? if its under the tank or under the car then im fucked

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>>28847624
this is pretty accurate to what I would experience before this breakdown occured

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>>28846930
Call around to get a rough idea of the amount you're gonna kick out on the phone, but you need to be as detailed as you can about how much you are willing to work with when it comes to cost

>>28847561
that shouldn't happen. you have too many variables at play here. plug the MAF back in and leave the vacuum hose disconnected. start it and plug the vacuum nipples. does it still stall? does it stall ONLY at idle? does it stall when your try revving the engine a little?

>>28847559 this guy is giving very good ideas. another possibility, if the stall is only occurring at idle, is your throttle body is plugged up, or maybe just the IAC section is plugged. this is why i am asking you if, WITH THE MAF PLUGGED IN, plugging the nipples induces a stall only at idle.

do you have access to a scan tool that can pull live sensor data? if so you want to be looking at MAF data, o2 sensor voltage, and fuel trim. MAF should show like 3 g/sec at idle if it's working properly. https://www.aeswave.com/files/PWRCalcAirFlow.pdf

>>28847561
>>28847836
o2 voltage over 0.5v is rich, under 0.5v is lean.
positive fuel trim means it's adding excess fuel because the engine thinks it's correcting a lean condition (like a vacuum leak). negative trim is the opposite.

>>28847624
>i dont see how there could be anything blocking air on the intake, I dont smell any dead animals or feel anything in there.
I mean I would open it up and physically look. is the filter clogged? is there something jammed in there?
the codes are absolutely unrelated to the no start condition, they are a red herring.
have you tried what i suggested here >>28847453 and put everything back to factory except leave the MAF unplugged. doing multiple things at once is confusing the diagnostic process and making it hard to figure out what is actually helping

>>28847930
I did it both ways
MAF unplugged and hoses unplugged first
car starts at 200rpm
if i put my fingers over the metal nipples the car stalls
if i reattach the hoses to the metal nipples the car stalls
if i attach the hoses FIRST, then try to start the car (no MAF still) the engine will not turn over period

>>28847836
see above, the MAF is off in all cases, engine stalls once the hoses are attached to the throttle body either before or after the the car is started
I will go out this morning and check. I have Torque on an old android phone that connects to the OBD transmitter in my car, I will see if I can get live data for the MAF and those other things. I will report back soon

>>28847959
have you tried MAF plugged in, hoses disconnected, nipples plugged?

>>28847959
ok you're doing two things at once. you need to figure out if its unplugging the MAF or the hoses that is making it run. starting it with both then plugging the hoses doesn't tell you anything because the car is in a failsafe mode.

step 1: put everything back to factory
step 2: unplug the maf
step 3: then and only then start the car. does it run?
if not plug the MAF back in and unplug those hoses, does it run?
stop doing two things at once

>>28847969
agreed with this anon. you can't change multiple variables at once. you need to run two separate tests.

1) vacuum hoses all plugged back in. MAF unplugged.
does it start? does it idle? does it stay on when revved?
if no then run the following test.
2) vacuum hoses unplugged, nipples blocked with finger, MAF plugged in.
does it start? does it idle? does it stay on when revved?

pay attention to fuel trims, o2 voltages, and MAF g/s flow rate while doing these tests (obviously your MAF should read 0 g/s or some default value when it is unplugged.) you might also want to look at the 'open/closed loop' value, although it probably won't go 'on' until the engine is at operating temp.

>>28847969
Okay everything is reset except MAF is off: car will not start

Everything reset except MAF on, hoses off: car will start, gets to about 200rpm then stalls in <5 seconds

>>28847981
>>28847978
Addition to the second test the engine will keep running if i rev it

>>28847985
>>28847981
video of the second test (all connected except MAF) I got a terrible belt squel.
Take these numbers with some salt, the OBD reader seems to be lagged possibly due to the car's condition right now
https://i.imgur.com/P28BKoE.mp4

>>28847985
so just to clarify, the second test is the following (respond yes or no)?
>MAF: plugged in
>vacuum hoses: unplugged
>vacuum nipples: plugged with fingers

>>28847991
ah fuck i messed it up. disregard previous
give me some time I have to get on a work call, but i didnt plug the nipples

>>28847991
Okay I did exactly this. Engine does not start

What does the smoke smell like?

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>>28848088
When i rev it while its stalling the smoke is white and smells a little like burned fireworks

>>28848087
>starts when you leave the nipples open to atmosphere (allows it to suck air in and start the engine)
>won't start at all when you plug the nipples (allows no air to be sucked in)
i would recommend inspecting the idle air valve portion of the throttle body. it might be plugged up.

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I'll add this just for some clarification, the hoses I removed are actually the fuel vapor feed lines

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>>28848136
the part in red, not the part in blue, right?

>>28847930
i keep thinking about the codes. if the canister or purge vsv on the canister are clogged up, no air or vapors will get from the canister to the engine. the hoses that i unplugged are for fuel vapors which traced back, go to the charcoal canister >>28848140.

>>28846930
Push your vehicle into a no parking or fire lane at the store. Their towing company will remove it for free.

>>28848142
it's hard to tell from that diagram. desu i would just search for a few youtube videos.

the normal state for an evap valve is 'closed.' it only actuates when the sensor detects 'excess' fuel vapors from the evap system, and temporarily commands the valve to open and suck the vapors into the intake manifold.

having the evap valve stuck 'open' causes starting and driving issues because it induces a permanent vacuum leak (which is just another word for unmetered air being sucked into the engine, downstream of the MAF.)

>>28847624
>I dont smell any dead animals
they stop smelling after a while

disregard last post about the VSV, i tried it again and it seems to be working as normal
when power off I can blow from the actuator port out the vent, and with power on i can blow from actuator port to the vacuum tank path, and the vent port becomes one way only (out)

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If I look under the car I can see the charcoal canister and vent lines, and that rusted to hell piece is the EVAP Purge VSV. If it is toast which it could be by looking at it. I could possibly replace it while the car is on the ground here without needing to lower or remove any parts of the car

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>>28848268
aside from the rust none of the hose look to be split or damaged. The vapor canister purge solenoid is attached to the bracket with a philips head screw but due to the rust and access i'm likely to just snap it out when i remove it. its hard to see from this angle if anything else is faulty
https://toyota.oempartsonline.com/oem-parts/toyota-vapor-canister-purge-solenoid-9091012264

>>28848342
I removed it and checked at with 12V it opens and closes, but its so rusted i have no idea if it holds pressure or not, and I dont have a pressure tester or a way to do a smoke test here so I'll just order a replacement part

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one more update, if I pull out all 4 hoses from the top of the intake (maf unplugged), the engine will idle around 1000 rpms. There is some serious fuel/air ratio issues here.

I also realized there is something leaking on the left side of the engine near where the real valve cover is. Im going to check out the PCV valve tomorrow to see if its somehow leaking. When the engine runs I can smell something burning coming from that area of the engine bay

>>28848805
did you get a chance to inspect the throttle body and idle air control system? if it's idling with all of these self-induced vacuum leaks then it sounds like a bad MAF (not commanding enough air at idle) or a blockage preventing adequate air flow. you might also check the air filter.

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>>28849102
ill check on it today after work. I got MAF cleaner last night and sprayed it and tried the whole process again but it made no difference. Even with the MAF unplugged the engine will not start unless the hoses are detached.

I went out to see if I see the source of the leaking fluid from last night, whatever it is it smokes up pretty bad, im thinking its likely oil, but i dont know. I took out the PCV valve and theres some white goo crud on the bottom, but I dont think thats coolant mixing with the oil, but I got a new one coming out today thats OEM

>>28847243
Hell you and a buddy can drag it that far with a cheap strap

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>>28849102
I took some TB cleaner and sprayed it all inside the throttle body and the little cavity that drips down into the IAC and took a toothbrush to get what I could.

I went back to basics and plugged in everything 100% back to how it was. MAF plugged in, hoses, etc and here's the situation:

- Engine will not stay on just by turning the key. It was turn over and stall immediately.
- Engine WILL only run if I apply constant gas pedal pressure. Video related is the OBD readings while I was doing this.
The exhaust vapor is very wet (could just be the outside air temp) but after doing there is visible puddle under the exhaust.
https://i.imgur.com/u82Jm1B.mp4

>>28849815
God speed anon. Possible to test what you replaced? New parts can go bad.


Test any electrical grounds?

>>28847243
shit literally just happened to me:
>let car idle for 20 mins after being covered with snow for a bit (hadn't driven it for 3 weeks)
>starts & idles fine
>drive it down the street
>dies

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>>28849815
>MAF plugged in, vacuum hoses plugged in
>does not start without throttle applied
>does start with throttle applied
>engine sounds fine with throttle applied
>MAF values constant for a fixed RPM
can you bring in engine coolant temp on your scan tool? do the values look reasonable? if your coolant temp readout looks reasonable then i'm guessing your IAC is gunked up. you cleaned the throttle body, i understand, but i doubt you touched the IAC shutter because it's recessed. assuming your IAC were gunked up, it also makes sense that, as you mentioned here >>28849450, the car starts with the MAF plugged in and the vacuum hoses detached (the detached vacuum nipples are acting as a crude idle air intake when the throttle body is shut and the IAC is plugged.)

https://youtu.be/l_OBwHYxbf4?si=WIbZeJvmEMVECKH1&t=355

it's still possible that the evap system codes are an issue -- but i don't think they're responsible for the car not starting unless you apply throttle.

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>>28850196
Thanks for that video.
Right so heres what happens
- hoses unplugged maf unplugged = car starts low idle rpms
- hoses unplugged maf plugged = car starts but i have to apply pedal otherwise the maf will kill the engine

im looking into how to place the IAC portion without taking about the entire throttle body. looks like if i can get the right side throttle body off, then I could detach the IAC from it, but i have to be careful not to fuck up the pully wire that controls the valve opening, this car still uses cable control.
This appears to be the right part but I cant tell for sure https://parts.toyotaofnashua.com/oem-parts/toyota-2000-2004-toyota-idle-speed-control-222700a060

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It seems like the likely culprit is a failed IAC Valve. I took my MM out to the leads to test for continuity and got
>OL for B->RSO
>60kohms for B->RSC
Thats way out of spec for what it should read.

My next steps are to figure out if this is something I can handle on my own or not. I dont have the right screwdriver to get these screws off the throttlebody without them starting to cam out.
but I can get a new IAC valve + gaskets for about $320 shipped. No idea what a shop would charge for it.

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>>28850882
nice work, anon.

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>>28851213
thank anon

I got the IAC out and boy was it dirty, and sure enough the valve was not opening and closing the way it should. New one is on the way.
Now that I got the TB out too I gave it a good scrub down inside and its looking much better. put a pipe cleaner in all the air holes to make sure there wont be any chance of clogs in the future

I want to thank everyone for all the help. It may be premature to say, but Im thinking putting a new IAC valve in just might do it. but I will know in a few days

>>28854013
post an update when you get the part. if the thread dies, repost it with the same tow truck image.

part will be here tomorrow

>>28856414
God speed

I am excited for the conclusion.

The suspense is figuratively killing me.
I need to know if anon succeeded.

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>>28856622
>>28856466
>>28856430
hang tight anons

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>>28856635
Good luck on the repairs today anon! We're rooting for you.

Love this thread can't wait for the conclusion

>>28857592
>>28856622
>>28856995

Well I must've made the gods angry because the part arrived today and its defective. 12V power does nothing. Ohm readings are slightly out of spec (should be 19-22.3kO on each terminal and I get 25kO and 23.5kO). But the fact that 12V does NOTHING to the valve is very concerning, the box was also damaged in the mail but its a metal part. now im MAD. I wanted to get this car fixed this week. Ill have to hope Rockauto will refund me and reimburse shipping. This wasnt a cheap part either. $115.
My last hope now it get a part from Amazon that will be here overnight, but its going to be chinesium crap

>>28857690
check that your harness is outputting 12 volts. check the harness pins, make sure they aren't spread apart. check the ground integrity as well, you should measure minimal (less than 10 ohms I guess) resistance between the ground pin and body ground.

>>28857690
>>28857764
also if it's actually broken consider buying it from NAPA or some place local. they might even be able to get it to you same day.

>>28857775
>>28857764
Im using a 12V DC supply inside at my work table. the valve should be clicking from left to right. I know the supply is good, but this valve doesnt seem to do anything at all. I contacted rockauto but they have to review my case since the package was damaged when it arrived.

I should try napa or one of the parts stores to see if they have one in stock and hope its good quality.

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>>28857775
lmao well NAPA has it for pickup tomorrow but that price is only $40 less than OEM so this better be good quality shit, never used Echlin parts before

>>28847243
This happened to me recently, turns out the fuel gauge wasn't reading right and I was just out of gas lol

>>28857865
parts.toyota.com
your local dealer might even have it in stock

>>28858367
local toyota dealer has the part for $330 after markup and taxes lol, but they say it could be ready for pickup today if I ordered

>>28858374
check that website, paying online and picking up at the dealer is a lot cheaper than just walking in or calling. I just checked and it's 286.09 from my dealer (part # 22270-0A060) and in stock.
check nearby dealers too with the website

>>28858387
also do you have any pick n pull junkyards? a good working used OEM part would be like $20

>>28858387
It did a bait and switch on me. when it shows me the part in the search its much lower than once i click on it. it tells me the dealer sets their own prices on parts. The one thats 5 miles from me has it for $300 and the one thats 25 miles from me has it for $265 lol.

I'd check a junkyard if I could, but this is the kind of part thats probably just as fucked up on those cars too. but for other parts I agree

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>>28857865

Well I bought this part today and its basically a rebranded version of the Rockauto part (just 2x more expensive), and it also DOESNT WORK. What is going on here. I am applying 12V to the pins directly as stated here but the valve doesnt move or anything.

>>28858878
you're presumably not testing it with your battery like you said here? >>28857854 is it capable of producing enough current to actuate the valve? the spec here >>28850882 is ~24 ohms which is 0.5 amps.

>>28858953
I must be doing something wrong. i went to Autozone and got their version of the part (which is just Wells brand) and the valve also did not move. All things being equal, I'll try out the parts again and see what im doing wrong.
I was able to get the valve on the broken part to move with 12V power, but not any of the new ones.

video showing 12v power on the old OEM part I removed from the car. Its faulty but it does move
https://i.imgur.com/SMtHeqA.mp4

>>28859053
do you have any jumper wires? try powering it from the car's battery. the old part will have a lot more wear in it, meaning lower current draw. i have no idea what 12v power supply you're using but if it's something shitty and wimpy it might be current limiting.

>>28859099
I can try it tomorrow, my car battery is dead at the moment and currently only drawing 11.2V lol.
Im using a standard wall plug 12V 1A power supply with leads connected to the pos and neg. it could be that the supply is bad, but it worked on every VSV ive tested so far, but that may also require a lower draw

>>28859132
Should have gotten a battery tender while you were at AutoZone. They're cheap at Harbor Freight too. Battery will stop charging if you keep draining it

>>28859132
>standard wall plug 12V 1A power supply
This might be the issue. Typically you need a proper bench tester or just use a car battery.

>>28859132
1amp isn't enough, probably needs 3-5 amps

>>28859666
>>28859311
I used a clean car battery and still no luck. I ended up ordering an OEM part, and hope to god that one works

Could have just paid a mechanic and it would have been cheaper huh

>>28860130
no, even with this part, I've only spent about $275 so far

>>28860130
no because he would have paid $150/hour diagnostic time + parts cost with a 35% markup + $150/hour part installation time + disposal/waste charge for whatever consumables are used in the job + tax + tip.

also he's probably learning in general how to run guided diagnostics rather than blindly swapping parts.

i am confused my this thread, do americans not rope tow their cars at all? if i had no start situation breakdown i would just ask any family member to tow me to a mechanic with their car.

>>28860243
Nobody wants to take their car to a mechanic because it's going to cost more to fix it than the car is even worth

>>28860247
op's original concern was obviously the cost of the towing so i am adressing that

>>28859099
My last attempt is to just take one of these and hook it up and try to start the car.
best case somehow it works and the car starts
worse case: i have to drain the coolant and unbolt everything all over again, probably a 30min job each way.

I just wish I had some definitive proof these parts work but so far none of them (3 so far)
>respond to 12V power
>read the correct resistance values

even failing the first test, the Ohms should still be right, right?

>>28860299
what resistance values do they read? they could be broken shitty parts, the quality of parts has dropped off a cliff.

>>28860299
>>28860500
and just to confirm, you're connecting battery positive (red) to the middle B+ pin?

if you're connecting the battery positive to the RSO or RSC pin it might not work or it might even fry the part. hard to know considering we don't have internal schematics.

>>28860500
>>28860505
see >>28857690
every single unit i have is way out of spec. my only hope is that the $300 toyota version works better.

>>28861367
i'm not understanding this. kilo ohms and ohms are different by a factor of 1000.

this picture shows >>28850882 a spec of 19.3 to 22.3 ohms.
you claim to have measured here >>28857690 25 KILO ohms and 23.5 KILO ohms.

what exactly did you measure and are you sure it's KILO ohms?

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>>28861372
Its crazy isnt it. yes Im measuring 25,000ohm resistance across either +B-RSO or +B-RSC

>>28861367
>>28861372
put another way, if you're actually measuring 20K+ ohms then the part is clearly fucked up. if it's 20 OHMS then the motor coils are probably relatively good (it's 10% out of spec, that's not too bad for DC resistance) and so it's either a mechanical issue (rotary valve might be stuck, hit it with a screwdriver or something) or you're doing something wrong when testing it with a battery?

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>>28861384
and yes i made an error, the SPEC ohms should only be 19-23ohms not kohms

>>28861384
okay yeah that is fucked up. if you short your two test leads together do you get a reasonable reading, like less than 5 ohms?

>>28861386
and this is consistent across 3 separate IAC valve brands (though two are made by the same factory but rebranded) I really thought I was doing something wrong because how can every single one be bad? But many of these looked like they were picked off a shelf that hadnt been touched in 15 years. If I unscrew the plastic part there is like a barrel that the valve shaft sits in that I assume gets charged with power which determines which way the valve goes?

>>28861388
when i touch the probes together I get 1/2ohm resistance yes

>>28861392
and the chinese cheap one I bought off Amazon has a resistance of 10 MEGA ohms between two pins lol

Bump until the new part arrives