Thread #28858864
File: B501FA86-D49E-45F7-B64E-1F94011ADA2E.jpg (861.6 KB)
861.6 KB JPG
Not a typical comparison, but I recently got a large salary increase and I want to finally buy a sports car. I can afford either car, and neither would be my daily driver.
The FD is the car I’ve wanted since I was a kid. But I worry that I’ll be too afraid to drive it too quickly for fear of crashing or fucking something up. I certainly wouldn’t track it. I also would want to (need to) wait for a clean example to pop up, but that’s secondary.
On the other hand I definitely wouldn’t be afraid of doing stupid shit in a 10k miata. I think it would make me a better driver. And obviously it does cost a lot less.
Why should I pick one or the other?
111 RepliesView Thread
>>
File: IMG_7327.jpg (525.6 KB)
525.6 KB JPG
F22 M240i or G87 M2
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>28858864
>I certainly wouldn’t track it.
then don't bother like what you're afraid to crash it in a controlled environment? I mean if you won't do that then surely you wouldn't "hoon" like a delinquent on public roads. so I'm assuming you'll drive to McDonald's® on your day off and nothing more? doubtful you'll even rebuild the engine genuinely M8 grow a brain.
>>
File: Mazda 2005 Mx-5 Roadster 4833.jpg (286.1 KB)
286.1 KB JPG
>>28858864
I'd choose the reliable and cheap to fix NB. You'll have more fun and less problems.
>>28858895
>for what its worth I would just go with an ND
Agree. Buy a brand new one.
>>
>>
File: confusing to japs.jpg (38.1 KB)
38.1 KB JPG
If you don't want *an FD* do not buy, and FD. You do not buy an FD because you're on the fence, you buy it because you want an FD.
T. FD owner.
>>28858864
>daily driver
No. Not unless you're buying one with a fairly fresh engine. They're all 30 years old at this point and will blow a coolant seal eventually. They get terrible fuel economy and like to have the hood propped after a drive to keep the engine bay temps from rising in the lack of air flow and cooking rubber to an early demise.
>>
>>28858864
As someone who built a Evo 9 from 2017-25:
How comfortable are you spinning wrenches? And whatever you inevitably can't do, paying specialist prices to do? You will run into the latter at SOME point; whether its machine work, tuning, or body work.
How much is your time worth? Do you have a car to enjoy when your car is down?
The last question is VERY important. If you work a job that won't let you spend your free time in the garage working on your car that car will sit and the little free time you'll have you won't even have the energy to work on the car (you'll be trying to catch up on rest or chores or friends/family). If your car is broken all the time you won't be enjoying it and it will CRUSH you when its a nice sunny day out and you're in your beater while everyone is in their sports car and they're zooming past you.
The ND Miata is a VERY valid option for that reason. I chose to buy a $12k Evo 9 with a blown motor and 62k miles in 2017 and I wish I never did it sometimes. I would've been better off taking the $12k and putting it on a down payment for a 5.0 S550 PP2 or a Focus RS/FK8 CTR and had more fun enjoying the car while I slowly paid it off. Instead I became a Mitsu Master Mechanic and spent my 20s wrenching...only lucky to turn a profit selling it for $32k 10k miles later. Granted I was unlucky and I did track it, but I only chose that because it was my childhood dream car. It did get really fucking old not driving it because of it having a xyz random issue (either tune related phantom knock with the worst being leaving me stranded at NJMP from a bad MAP sensor wire and having to beg my girl's parents to pick us up 3 hours away and 8 hours later).
Can I suggest you look at a NB MX5 or a RX8? It'll give closer to the feeling of a FD with way less issues. You could buy 2 RX8s for $10k.
>>
File: FB_IMG_1758777816716.jpg (143.7 KB)
143.7 KB JPG
Just buy a C5 vette and squint everytime you look at it then you'll have a rx7 that will be cheap to fix, reliable as all get, and you'll have a magic thing called Torque
If you're weak willed, get the miata
If your resolve rivals a bushido warrior then get the RX7 and never look back.
The miata is a lesser car than the RX7 on every front besides the upkeep costs (assuming you want one with a rotary)
>>
File: Stock 99-Spec (Base).jpg (186 KB)
186 KB JPG
>>28858975
>and you'll have a magic thing called Torque
FDs with the sequential twins operating, as God intended, have a pretty V8 like torque curve. lolnotorque applies only to NA rotaries. They have a good amount of torque for the power they make. Everything else you said is true, and 9 times out of 10 a Corvette is faster. BUT you don't buy an FD for fast, you buy it because you want an FD.
>>
>>28858980
Respectfully, the FDs sequential setup was made as a bandaid fix to the torque curve rather than "like a V8" figures.
Love the cars, but another point to note is if OP is a tall and/or a fat dude then he will NOT have a good time in an FD. Literally the only reason I personally didn't get an FD pre-covid was because I'm tall.
>>
File: Stock S4 T2.jpg (199.4 KB)
199.4 KB JPG
>>28858988
>Respectfully, the FDs sequential setup was made as a bandaid fix to the torque curve rather than "like a V8" figures.
They went to way too much effort to make it work well to consider it a bandaid. Also, pic related, notorque is a meme that does not apply to turbo rotaries, even stock single turbo FCs. I even memed it myself until the first time I actually drove an FD. Having also driven a ported SA22, those feel like a honda and have no torque.
As for being tall, how tall is the question. If you're 6'3" or under you'd be fine with an R1/2 or base model with no sunroof and an aftermarket wheel spaced toward you for leg clearance. That's what I have. I've driven a touring with an aftermarket seat to suit its owner who was a little taller than me and it had the same head room as my slick top. If you're taller than 6'3" you got heightcucked and will never be able to enjoy many cars. One of my college teammates was 6'5" and loved sports cars but nothing he could afford fit him.
>>
File: FB_IMG_1758218612111.jpg (41.3 KB)
41.3 KB JPG
>>28859006
Anon thats not a lot of torque. Especially in the context of V engines.
>Aftermarket wheel to fix height problems
The thing was too narrow for spirited driving, im 6'2 and that shit was not comfortable or optimal by any stretch of the imagination and that was with racing bucket seats that adjust on a slick top.
My head wasnt touching the roof but id hit my head on it on every bump thanks to some spiffy coilovers.
>Height-cucked
Suffering from success indeed. Thankfully my car is perfect for tall people that actually fucking drive their shit
>>
>>28859016
>>28859016
>Anon thats not a lot of torque. Especially in the context of V engines.
It's not a lot of power either, dumbass. Are you deliberately misreading what I'm saying? The shape of the curve and the proportion of torque to hp is what matters. No shit it's not "a lot" of torque, it's a sub 200hp car lmao
>>
>>28858864
>The FD is the car I’ve wanted since I was a kid.
This is one of those hero cars you shouldn't meet. I've never hear a rotary guy recommend rotaries to others because it is a downright abusive relationship.
>>
>>
Not buying an ND. If I’m shelling out more than NA or NB prices I’d rather just get the RX7. I’m also not interested in a corvette or really any car outside of these two options. I’ve narrowed my list down considerably and a clean na or nb is the best thing short of an FD for my interests. It’s purely a competition between those two.
Also, I won’t track an FD not only because of the fear of crashing it, but also a desire to keep it mostly stock. I don’t want to put a roll cage and power mods and aero shit on an FD. A miata would be cheaper, more disposable, and have more accessible opportunities to track it competitively. However, I also ride motorcycles (don’t have a track bike though) which would be even cheaper to track than a miata and offers as much or more competition. But it’s a different experience from a car.
>>
>>28859029
>replies to a picture of an FC dyno saying it isn't a lot of torque which I am clearly referencing
>starts talking about the FD dyno from 4 posts ago out of nowhere
I see now, you're trying to troll me. Conversation over.
>>28859020
Correct. I don't recommend an FD to anyone who doesn't explicitly want an FD. They're bad in more ways than they're good, but there's no substitute if you want one. FCs are lame, FBs are extremely slow, RX8s are fugly. The closest you can get is the looks of a C5 corvette and it's an objectively better car.
>>
>>28858864
FD. Get a clean one that's stock and just be prepared to dump ~$5-10k into it every year. You'll also need a shop nearby that knows what they're doing, or take it to a shop far away, leave it with them for 3-6 months, and you'll have a car that's sorted for daily driving for awhile. I've daily driven FDs for awhile, they're fun as a DD if you don't have a 2 hour commute, but on top of all the old car shit, you also need to replace all the vacuum lines, possibly wiring harnesses, and maybe an engine rebuild depending on condition. If you have the money, it's best to take care of all this stuff as soon as you buy it so you don't have any surprises. Most cars have lots of deferred maintenance.
An NB miata is old as shit, and no matter how reliable cars were when they were new, everything rubber & plastic on any car starts to fall apart and break at that age. So it's only worth spending the money to keep it maintained if it's a cool car like an FD. NB miatas are gay, don't get one, you can just buy an ND if you want a cheap, practical, reliable sports car.
The twin turbo setup doesn't need to be replaced, especially if you're ok with only 300-350hp. I bought a totally stock one after having a modded one and I honestly enjoyed it more. It's a very docile daily driver when stock (makes sense, since it's basically designed to be a 911 competitor). If you put on a full exhaust + intercooler setup and retune it then you get some major power gains for cheap. You can get the PowerFC Master now and with just a wideband o2 sensor installed you can auto-tune it yourself like a modern car (~$2k for the PFC Master + money for exhaust, intercooler, PowerFC ECU iteself, and the o2 install), but purely stock and in good condition it's still a very fun car.
If you go beyond that and don't have a good shop + a lot of money is where you'll run into problems and the car will spend more time in the shop than on the road, and then it's less fun.
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: 07_Z06_toon.jpg (166.1 KB)
166.1 KB JPG
>>28859006
That one is a dead ringer for a V8. >>28858980 not so much because of the torque dip. 80% of peak torque at 2500rpm is pretty good though, on par with a MK4 supra.
>>
>>28859006
oh yeah, about the height thing. It was designed for people who are 5'8" iirc, but it's fine for up to 6' IMO. After that it gets cramped. Bucket seats are somewhat difficult since the car is so narrow the bolsters won't fit for a lot of them, but if you can install JDM spec (32" waist) sparco rev seats or similar with a low mounting point then you'll have plenty of headroom. Ditto on the no sunroof cars, gives you a bit more as well.
>One of my college teammates was 6'5" and loved sports cars but nothing he could afford fit him (guy who ran the project was 6'7" and stipulated that he needed to sit comfortably in it.)
Tell your friend to get an a110, lol
>>28859020
It's not that bad compared to other classic cars. It's just you're dealing with 30 year old car problems on top of dealing with expensive twin turbo sports car maintenance with basically zero computer diagnostic support, and most mechanics don't want to learn/touch it because they hear rotary and just turn their brains off. Here's a good thread detailing people's cost: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-gen-general-discussion-322/how-much-have-y ou-spent-your-build-1171419/
You don't have to deal with shit like plastic diverter valves or plastic coolant lines breaking, but instead you deal with stuff like the 20 year old alternator dying ($300ish) or the pop-up headlight motor dying randomly ($450x2).
>>
>>28858975
>>28858980
FD has a much better looking rear end than the corvette. It also has a race-spec suspension & bushing setup, so with a few tweaks you have a fast car that doesn't need gobs of horsepower. Sure, you can buy a modern corvette with more power and put down faster laptimes, but somehow it isn't as satisfying as a properly running FD. I think you'd have to get a lotus or something to replace the FD with, but the older lotuses are hideous and lack horsepower while the newer ones are pigfat so there's always trade-offs.
Mazda just needs to release the fucking SP Iconic already as a manual transmission car.
>>
>>28859106
Fair enough.
>>28859129
Stock I agree with fine up to 6'. The steering wheel was necessary to keep my knees off of the wheel but other than that it's fine. If I were 2" shorter that wouldn't have been an issue. I can't wear a helmet in it but I'm not going to track it. The bolsters are too narrow for me but that applied to the MK3 supra I had in college too so I just live with the discomforts of sport seats.
>Tell your friend to get an a110, lol
Today's A110s didn't exist when I was in college. I doubt a college kid could afford one anyway. I think he had an E90 M3 when we last spoke. German cars are fine for tall guys.
>and most mechanics don't want to learn/touch it because they hear rotary and just turn their brains off
It's a good thing. Most of them will just fuck it up and cry about how complicated it is. The PO of my car took it to dealerships and after the fuel line recall they it went back 3 times by the receipts and never ran right again. When I got it vacuum lines were hooked up wrong, a check valve reversed. I fixed that and it was good as new.
>You don't have to deal with shit like plastic diverter valves
FD BOVs are plastic. They don't fail often though.
>>28859134
I mean it's better looking all around, it's a temperamental car though. Fragile too. I can't speak on the handling, I never tried to drive a C5 at the limit. I've never driven a lotus, the FD handles a lot better than a MK3 or MK4 supra though.
>>
File: Screenshot 2026-02-25 at 22.20.38.png (914.6 KB)
914.6 KB PNG
>>28859156
>FD BOVs are plastic.
shows how much I know. Apparently the newer ones are located closer to the turbo and since they're electronically controlled, the plastic piston in them cycles much more often than the rubber diaphragm in the FD blow-off valve so they wear out sooner. Better design for performance/emissions (the excess boost isn't wasted by being vented to atmosphere), but worse durability.
>>
>*gets a massive port*
>*slaps a giant single turbo on*
>*lugs the thing constantly*
>”maintenance? I change the oil :). What’s a reliability mod?”
>”WTF why is my car so unreliable??”
The dumbest retards in existence are responsible for keeping FD prices low. Say thank you to retards.
>>
Most of the FD problems (and cost) come from the twin turbo system. Scrapping everything and going for a modern single+standalone management system fixes like 80% of engine related problems (with remaining 20% being cooling), it's expensive to do but in the short term cheaper than dealing with endless problems from the twins.
>>
>>28859241
I think the pre-cat and the lack of dual oil coolers is a bigger issue on USDM cars. I've always had JDM FDs and I've never had cooling issues on the stock setup (track, rally, mountain driving, traffic in Atlanta). I suppose if you're in the desert or harsher environments you might start running into trouble.
You can get a great greddy vmount kit now for like $1500 + installation or the arc kit that is a drop-in replacement for the OEM intercooler for a slight performance increase. Later model / RX-8 fans also help a lot with idling/traffic since they give you about double the airflow of the original fans.
Also, lots of cars are now missing the undertray or the ducting is all fucked up so the airflow through the radiator and intercooler gets disrupted.
Not saying don't go single turbo, but I see a lot of botched single turbo builds online and now you're into custom territory and there's no one to hold your hand if you screw up.
>>
>>28859241
Gay
>>28859233
Theres definitely a point of diminishing returns, reality is often disappointing when checking the build sheet.
>>
>>28859285
Cooling issues come down more to the everything being 30 years old and lazy poor people owning them for the last 20 years. Only takes one old coolant/oil line to bust open and it could be rebuild time.
But yeah an upgraded intercooler, oil coolers, proper ducting and new pipes/lines makes it more than bulletproof. And just the factory gear in good condition is good enough anyway.
The issue with the twins is just running like shit and chasing down boost leaks etc. But the main benefit of a standalone ecu is for safety, simplification of everything is just a bonus.
>>
>>28859020
>This is one of those hero cars you shouldn't meet
I've fallen into this trap although not with a meme RX7. I already have the car so I guess it'll stay but if I were buying again I would look for something else.
>>
>>28859046
>So it's only worth spending the money to keep it maintained if it's a cool car like an FD
Or unless you just like the car and are very autistic about it. I've spent loadsa cash on an "uncool" car and I don't regret it.
>>
>>
>>28859241
I'm willing to bet a majority of FDs that had issues with the twin turbo system would be fixed by someone with an iq higher than room temperature replacing the vacuum lines and check valves according to the diagram. Mechanics/techs are parts replacers in a hurry and fuck it up. It doesn't help that rotary shops are notorious for shady business practices. People say "just single turbo it bro". Doing a single turbo setup that isn't using a fuckass 40 year old turbo lag machine design like a T4 is expensive. I tell people it starts at $10k. If anyone disputes that I'll throw a cost breakdown but it would make this post too long. Cost can be decreased if you can fabricate your own header and exhaust but obviously most people can't/won't.
>>28859233
Everyone wants an FD that has wild aero and braps, when that's the worst example of an FD. A vast majority are only and will only ever be street cars and porting makes them less streetable. It kills low end, makes you idle high to avoid stalling when load changes, and makes the engine harder on turbos and thirstier.
>>28859285
I know single oil coolers are a little bit of a problem because I've been stuck in traffic in a base model and watched the oil pressure drop as the oil heats up. It didn't drop to a point you wouldn't want to see it, 13Bs do not have low oil pressure issues even hot, but it dropped relative to typical idle oil pressure then recovered to normal once out of traffic.
>>
>>28859486
What I'm say is don't "settle". If you want an FD, get an FD, not an ND. But if you just want a cool sports car that handles well is lightweight, get an ND. Don't buy an NB instead of an FD because that's all you can afford and it's from the same era. It sucks if you save $10k upfront on the NB but then keep pouring money into it to the point where you could spend $10-20k more and had the FD of your dreams. Figure out how to make enough money to afford your hobby.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: GQ0l_AyWsAARHnY.jpg (162.1 KB)
162.1 KB JPG
>>28859612
The OEM usdm wheels look horrible. The JDM wheels and especially the Spirit R wheels look so much better.
>>
File: Toby_Thyer_Photographer_-1110.jpg (2.5 MB)
2.5 MB JPG
>>28859626
>The OEM usdm wheels look horrible. The JDM wheels
1. Bad taste.
2. Talking out of your ass. The JDM wheels and USDM wheels are the same thing. They changed the wheels during the facelift which was after the car was discontinued in the US market, and on special editions which were never sold in the US market.
>>
>>
>>28859630
>>28859632
No shit retard. What do you think I meant by jdm wheels?
>>
File: 1998-mazda-rx-7.jpg (164.9 KB)
164.9 KB JPG
>>28859630
>>
>>
>>
>>28859630
>>28859636
These are perfectly fine
>>28859626
These are mega gay
>>
>>
File: fd3smazdaspeed.jpg (63.6 KB)
63.6 KB JPG
Anyone who says this isn't the best set of wheels/body kit for an FD is wrong
>>
>>
>>
>>28859626
>>28859632
>>28859630
>>28859643
>>28859656
>>28859652
>>28859658
I'm going to out sperg all of you retards. There is no such thing as a USDM RX7.
United
States
DOMESTIC
Market
RX7s are IMPORTS not DOMESTIC cars, there is no DOMESTIC MARKET RX7 for the US. JDM only works because they were produced and sold in Japan, therefore, they are DOMESTIC CARS for the JAPANESE market.
>>
>>
>>
>>28859664
>>28859660
Not domestically produced = not USDM
Go to school.
>>
File: FD Type RS type R.png (2.8 MB)
2.8 MB PNG
>>
File: FD improvements.png (2.2 MB)
2.2 MB PNG
>>
File: 136599_Honda_Heritage_-_1989_NSX.jpg (191.7 KB)
191.7 KB JPG
>>28858864
Just get an nsx
>>
File: 179_Sports_Car_International_1.1.jpg (153.6 KB)
153.6 KB JPG
>>
File: 179_Sports_Car_International_1.2.jpg (259.5 KB)
259.5 KB JPG
>>
>>
File: 179_Sports_Car_International_1.3.jpg (251.2 KB)
251.2 KB JPG
>>
File: 179_Sports_Car_International_1.4.jpg (266.2 KB)
266.2 KB JPG
>>
>>
File: 179_Sports_Car_International_1.5.jpg (288.7 KB)
288.7 KB JPG
>>
File: 179_Sports_Car_International_1.6.jpg (451.3 KB)
451.3 KB JPG
>>
>>
File: 179_Sports_Car_International_1.7.jpg (275 KB)
275 KB JPG
>>
File: 179_Sports_Car_International_1.8.jpg (322.9 KB)
322.9 KB JPG
>>
>>
File: 183_Road&Track_article02.01.jpg (200.5 KB)
200.5 KB JPG
>>28859701
Actually, I have an article about that too. Another dump incoming.
>>
File: 092-car.jpg (142.5 KB)
142.5 KB JPG
>>28859690
>more expensive
Yeah so?
>Uglier
Subjective
>Slower
Yes
>Less fun
Maybe, but reliability makes up for its shortcomings imo.
>>
File: 183_Road&Track_article02.02.jpg (169.9 KB)
169.9 KB JPG
>>
File: 183_Road&Track_article02.03.jpg (224.5 KB)
224.5 KB JPG
>>
File: 183_Road&Track_article02.04.jpg (208.6 KB)
208.6 KB JPG
>>
File: 183_Road&Track_article02.05.jpg (214.2 KB)
214.2 KB JPG
>>
File: 183_Road&Track_article02.06.jpg (213.1 KB)
213.1 KB JPG
>>
File: 183_Road&Track_article02.07.jpg (206.8 KB)
206.8 KB JPG
>>
File: 183_Road&Track_article02.08.jpg (198.2 KB)
198.2 KB JPG
>>
File: 183_Road&Track_article02.09.jpg (193.9 KB)
193.9 KB JPG
>>
File: 183_Road&Track_article02.10.jpg (211.4 KB)
211.4 KB JPG
>>
File: 183_Road&Track_article02.11.jpg (247.7 KB)
247.7 KB JPG
>>
>>28859720
>"Wow! Just great. Light. Balanced. Fast. Lithe. Connected to the road. I wouldn't change a thing. Throttle response is excellent for a turbo."
>Praise can't get much higher than this editor's comments. The RX-7 indeed takes to the Streets of Willow with the intensity of a shark in a feeding frenzy. Our car, the sport-tuned R1 model, edges out even the 911 Turbo for fast time of the day.
>>
>>28859743
Well the FD was a world class sports car in its day, it is well suited for tracks that favor cars with good cornering ability and light weight. Someone else mentioned lotus in discussing FDs ITT and it is probably the closest you get to a Lotus from Japan. FDs were built with weight savings in mind. They have a hatch frame instead of an all glass hatch, flimsy interior plastics, thin sheet metal. They don't even have the typical rectangle of asphalt tape or MLV on the door skin to keep the door from resonating like a cheap trash can when you close it.
If you took a bone stock, all original FD and replaced the worn 30 year old bushings and shocks with new bushings and a set of nice shocks, or even coilovers like Ohlins and put it on regular modern sports car tires, it would probably keep up with the less powerful modern sports cars like Caymans on a track that doesn't favor power too much. Of course, making 220 ish hp at the wheels stock wouldn't exactly lead to impressive lap times, but it's not a powerful car at all.
>>
>>28860109
>They don't even have the typical rectangle of asphalt tape or MLV on the door skin to keep the door from resonating like a cheap trash can when you close it.
I may have pictures somewhere still, but the 1992 spec cars had long, rectangular cubes affixed to the inside center of the door panel. On the door side they were thick foam pad which prevents the door panel from flexing and gives it a more solid, premium feel, and I assume also reduces vibrations. Interesting that they deleted it after the first year (there seem to have been a lot of little cost costs like that after the first model year).
>>
>>28859555
Yeah well a decent turbo by itself starts at like 3k. Plus an ecu. Plus the exhaust manifold. Plus everything else. It's not cheap but neither is having the twins rebuilt and all the vacuum lines and solenoids replaced by a good rotary mechanic who charges like $200 an hour labour minimum.
>>
File: IMG_20231010_150046.jpg (1.4 MB)
1.4 MB JPG
>>28859626
My brother in Christ those are just about the cheapest bbs' produced
>>
File: 48373365_1922740187780741_6489722036959576064_o_90110e9c6b258d06985b6f5954ed0c2f6bf2af95.jpg (63.5 KB)
63.5 KB JPG
>>28859626
Imo the best wheels are the type rs wheels. Simple design, looks good, could be wider/more offset but doesn't matter.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: RX7VacuumDiagram.jpg (147.3 KB)
147.3 KB JPG
>>28860544
I wouldn't say it's easy either...
>>
File: Housing oil injectors old vs new 3.jpg (84.7 KB)
84.7 KB JPG
>>28860476
You only need to replace a solenoid if it's bad. I've replaced one, and it was still working, it's just that the clip that holds it to the frame was broken off when I got the car. I think anyone with an FD should be able to wrench, and the vacuum line job is time consuming but fairly easy if you follow the diagram. Having the twin turbos rebuilt varies on cost. A good set that doesn't have significant rubbing on the housings probably only costs $500 to have rebuilt at boostlab, which is who the people I know with FDs have used. The hardest hoses to get to are the oil injector hoses, the fuel lines and stuff get in the way, but if you're replacing your vacuum hoses you may as well pull the fuel rail and replace the hoses and fuel pressure damper.
>>28860760
NTA, but it's not that bad. One hose at a time. Use heat and a gentle twisting/pulling combo and the old hoses come off. New tight silicone hoses go on with a drop of water to lubricate. The hardest part is removing the rear turbo intake pipe because the OEM catted downpipe gets in the way.
>>
>>
>>28858864
the NB is a fun shitbox that you can fart around with modding and drive hard without breaking anything, including your wallet. the FD will be a purdy fashion accessory that sits on a lift too often but gets you a crazy amount of attention when you actually drive it, and its handling really is second to none
if you've wanted the FD since you were a kid, get the FD. making your inner child happy is worth it. but maybe budget for a NB as a second fun car so you'll have something fun to drive when the FD shits the bed. unless both decide to shit the bed at the same time lol
>>28858943
I've had a ND and have a NB, like the NB more because hydraulic steering and because shitbox. The ND's seats were fucking terrible too, gave me back pain, while I can more or less stand the NB's after foamectomy. need to put better seats in tho
>>28859594
the price delta between NBs and FDs is a lot more than $10k. you could get a cherry NB and dump 10K into it and still not be halfway to what a decent FD costs
>>
File: Orson fresca.jpg (79.4 KB)
79.4 KB JPG
>>28858864
>I’ll be too afraid to drive it too quickly
It's 200 HP, man.
>>
>>28861881
It's also expensive for a car that is exclusively a toy, and rare/hard to find parts for so most of them don't get driven hard.
>but it's cheap muh $2,000,000 lamborghini
you don't live in the world of the rich and neither does anyone else on this board. $40k for a car that is just a toy is a lot of damn money.
>>
>>28858864
In my experience with both long term, I always thought the FD felt like an NB on some stimulants. Significantly faster, and sharper in bends, but very similar feeling. It is a compliment to both the FD and NB. They are both great cars.
Another anon in this thread mentioned his experience with their evo 9 and watching other people drive their enthusiast cars without a care in the world on a nice summers day whilst yours may be at home. I agree with his sentiment that you may prefer in the long run to have a car you can drive often, and not worry about. The FD is fun enough, but being concerned about someone damaging it, the economic toll from crashing it, or even just wondering if the engine will start or the twins fail over time becomes tedious. There are so many stories of people purchasing a semi dream car, and fretting to much about it to actually enjoy it in their 20's.
I think the reality of the FD is once you live with it for a while, you will quickly realise its a near 30 year old car with a 30 year old rattly plastic interior which was criticized when it was new. It will use a lot of fuel and you will have to tolerate people talking to you at gas stations and wanting your attention on the road. The NB will give you fun, if not more fun motoring than the FD without the anxiety in the back of your mind.
FD's are certainly still a quick car by modern standards, even though you will get gapped by a soccer mom in a tesla at a set of lights, no-one would describe them as slow (with a few simple mods...).
Buy the FD to enjoy it for what it is. But I would wager you will have more fun in the NB overall and be happy that you purchased it - noone is ever unhappy about buying a Miata. By the way, people talking about the FD being unreliable are just demonstrating what side of the IQ bell curve they are on, or are talking about the older twin turbo rats nest which isn't difficult at all to maintain.
>>
>>28863720
>By the way, people talking about the FD being unreliable are just demonstrating what side of the IQ bell curve they are on, or are talking about the older twin turbo rats nest which isn't difficult at all to maintain.
I'm sure they're reliable when they're new, but they're 30 year old twin turbo sports cars. They're at the point where stuff like wiring harnesses start to crumble, synchros start to fight you back, diffs start to get loud, door handles break, flip up lights won't flip up, clusters die, and if it wasn't a garage queen you might be lucky enough to find rust. The engine is the least of your problems imo.
Then your weekend toy becomes a restoration project and if you work a lot of hours and/or don't have the money to sub it out to a shop that you can trust (another issue) it'll sit when.
>>
>>28863782
I've never had any of those issues in the double digit years i've owned mine and likely reflect more about the owner than the car itself.
An FD is no more or less reliable than any of its contemporaries (supra, 3000gt, gtr, - ill throw the NSX a bone and call those more reliable although I know of one owner that is having issues with the HVAC PCB failing and struggling to source a new one). As someone in the know I haven't heard of anyone with crumbling wiring harnesses anything like the earlier volvo epidemic unless they do something stupid run it over the hot side of a single turbo converted fd. The diffs, synchros and harnesses will fail as much in an FD as it would the NB OP has purchased off the flat brim hat owner.
I am not really sure of the point of your reply but I presume you are trying to help. I wholeheartedly agree that the engine is the least of their problems. All those other things effect both cars in the discussion and not really helpful to the OP in deciding between either. It would be interesting if either the FD or NB was more predisposed to those failures than the other. I'll agree with the door handles failing, but thats not a showstopper like an engine rebuild or anything particularly idiosyncratic to the FD and its drivetrain itself which are the things non-fd owners bang on about relentlessly being unreliable.
>>
>>
>>
File: hotter than an mx5.jpg (433.2 KB)
433.2 KB JPG
>>28858864
neither, both are the ugly Botox injected children
The Sa RX-7 is the Hot Mommy
I am quite drunk but people are no longer molesting 1-2 gen rx-7's because 12a housings are rare now and the mx5 is a femboy chassis
>>
>>28864927
>SA
>better looking than an FD
Look, I like SAs, especially the late models, as much as anyone. They're cool little wedges and light, but the FD is better in every single way including looks. It's one of the best looking japcrap cars ever made, top 5 if not top 3.
>>
>>28865185
Agreed. SA is pretty but FD facelift without the license plate bumper bulge is maybe the prettiest "commoner's" car there has ever been. I hate rotaries mostly for the sound, but all 3 RX-7s are gorgeous.