Do you guys actually bother with all the calibration shit or is it just reddit autism?

My printer arrived last week and I've been getting decent results just using the profile supplied by siraya tech for my resin and printer combo

What’s the most idiot proof wash/curing station?
And what 3d printer producer make the most idiot proof printers that require the least amount of maintenance for someone low IQ like me?

>>97531779
FDM
Bambulab a1 mini

>>97531853
>fdm
I’m after resin printers.

>>97532035
there is no low maintenance and idiot proof resin printer, you'll end up developing allergies and won't even be able to be in a room with resin

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>>97531779
>>97532035
Also, depending on what you want, FDM is more than capable nowadays with a 0.2mm nozzle and a bit of experience

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>>97532234
>think a print looks OK to the naked eye
>prime it and take a photo
>it looks like this
sigh

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Rate my curing station guys?
Super high tech system that covers and cures in darkness :)

>>97532620
I have that same lamp and turntable.

>>97532644
and I will NEVER spend 200 bucks on that elegoo station
I have cured around 500+ models at this point just using this and the total cost was like 20 bucks

>>97532667
I was really concerned about there being spots the lamp can't reach so I overspent by adding a bucket and foil tape from the hardware store.

>>97532706
Foil isn't a bad option but just the turntable and flipping the model work fine unless it's like a really big model, around action figure size or a large vehicle
You get what I mean tho
Usually cures just fine

>>97531418
I have. Mostly boils down to how much you care about really minute details. My pre-calibration models look perfectly fine to the naked eye. But a closer look and some things almost look "poorly scanned"
>>97532620
>UV BOX
nice to know you have high safety standards by properly labelling it anon lol

>>97532907
That and I just don't wanna use it to ship something by accident, it happened before :(

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>>97532484
i mean if you position the models in a way that reduces print lines it can look good, and after painting they are even less visible

>>97531779
Resin printers are not idiot proof, being dumb with them will result in you fucking something up. If you cant read and follow instructions don't get one.

>>97531779
HeyGears should be idiot proof since they automagically work out the settings for a given resin, but they're fucking expensive and so is the resin, and the RS Turbo doesn't even come with a heated vat

I've been having good results with a GK3 straight out of the box using Siraya Tech Fast Navy Blue. The printer has a built in heater and Siraya tech supplies profiles for all their resins for the GK3. You'll still need to learn to use a slicer and probably UVTools to fix up the STL files you buy though

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>>97531233
Posting the before painting

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>>97534697
And after

>>97531233
Anyone know of any beastmen proxies that aren't just goats?

>>97532667
Just search second hand. I got a mars 3 pro and a cure station with bucket snd stuff for 150$. Need to replace the FEV but decent prints so far

it was really cold today and my FDM print failed due to layers cooling too fast...

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hey I hate to request stuff but ive been looking all over for stls to this figure, it was called "SCAF SPACE CHAD AQUILLA GUY MARINE"

been looking for it all over, I see images of it everywhere but no download

this is the original cults3d page but its seems its gone
cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/scaf-space-chad-aquilla-guy-marine-action-figure

>>97535733
BASED
>>97535884
Do you have a gram?
By the grace of God I do have this exact figure saved and the terminator one also made by the same guy
No idea it got taken down RIP, I remember it was up for a few years they probably took it down because of the new overpriced marine action figures or something something

>>97532667
Right on, I just throw my prints into a glass jar of warm water and sit it on top of a mirror under sunlight. Been doing it for years

>>97532484
What is this model from?

Can someone help me out I want to model some custom bolters to print? But I don't have small enough calipers to measure the width and length of a normal space marine bolter in mm. Any help about this would be helpful.

>>97541108
piper makes "skorcian" multi-part kit. I think it's supposed to be a proxy for some warhammer unit but I don't really know which one.

>>97541589
if its piper makes than is some trans-positive unit of the tau

Any good classic OOP metal raptor stls out there? Im fine with paying. I want the jetpacks and heads in particular. Ive found a few jet packs but looking for breadth of options and variety

>>97531233
hey, just bought my first printer and i've started printing some terrain. I want to design some aswell. What's the go to program? I've seen many names around but have no idea where to start.

>>97542802
Try reading the OP

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Is there a way to stack models one on top of another in this newer chitubox? I've been thinking of making supports like a tower sort of. I don't really care for time of printing. It really matters not for me if something prints in 3 hours or 12, because I will only bother to take out print next day at earliest anyway. So I like to put as many prints as possible every time I print.

Like currently, I find myself constantly in need of more arms for my Kroot, since I keep using them. So I wanted to print a lot of them. But it kinda feels wasteful to just flood entire place with them. If I could stack them I could make room for other prints as well. But if try to just move them one above another chitubox forces them down anyway.

This feels like such an obvious option, it has to be somewhere, I'm just too blind to fucking see it.
>>97542802
Learning to use Blender is always useful

>>97539805
>gram
I dont know what you mean by that but if you can share the stls id greatly appreciate it! im still trying to look for it.

>>97542840
wouldn't something like this work: throw them into 3D builder, stack them, group them, export as single stl

>>97542840
Been a while, but some slicers did something like that, but people did not really use it, since all it does is use more material and make a single mistake in printing way more expensive.

https://hackaday.com/2021/12/12/resin-stacking-proves-messy-and-difficult/

Important news everyone, Thingiverse just got acquired by MyMiniFactory, "discussion" on crowdcast.io scheduled in 4 days, expect it to be light on discussion.
Given MMF's shitty search and monetary priorities now is a good time to scour Thingiverse for everything you may ever want off of it and back it up.

>>97545676
thingiverse's category filters and search have been pretty shit for a while now, and it's flooded with ai slop.

>>97545738
It's still leagues better than MMF which includes nonrelevant results over your search terms, whereas you search "battletech" on thingiverse and you get battletech mechs.

>>97542865
Telegram of course
Noobs can't triforce
I have no other way of sharing them sorry

I’m running a Saturn 4 Ultra 16k using SatelLite and Sunlu ABS-like grey. Have been having lots of problems with print tearing.
If anyone runs the same machine, resin and slicer with great success I would deeply appreciate knowing what settings you use.

did they ever fix that lasagna bug with anti aliasing on the S4U? last time I tried using aa it ruined my print

>Open model in lychee slicer
>slap some supports on obvious foundational areas
>Press find islands
>Put supports on the island
>Click auto bracing
>Mini prints perfect
Wait, it was literally that easy the whole time?

>>97549712
its easier than that, why all the extra steps?

>>97549840
It is like a cooking recipe
you can skip or simplify some steps, or you can just use the microwave

>>97550576
Auto support, rotate model to make sure feet and such have enough supports, add if necessary, slice.
optionally remove any unnecessary supports from the front/top as sometimes a few get placed.
but 90% of the time just auto support alone is enough.
>that analogy
You cant microwave flour into bread, its not alike at all, microwave only works for already prepared food.

>>97550640
auto supports "work" but they're a waste of resin and make extra work in cleanup. rather just do it myself

>>97551002
I do not find that at all, not after I learned to tweak the default settings to something that suits my printing better.
As I said, I auto support and then examine the model to see where any extras have been placed and any necessary spots have been missed.
As for wasted resin, I get more than 50 32mm scale miniatures per kilogram, that's under a dollar per model, you're counting pennies in savings here and the time saved is more valuable than pennies.

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I'm having a lot of fun with my old Ultimaker S5 these days. I have been printing resin since 2019, but the fact FDM has little to no post processing is great.

The next FDM machine will likely be a bambu A1 of elegoo centauro carbon 2.

>>97551136
>little to no post-processing
If you can live with the layer lines.

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>>97551241
Yeah, the S5 has layer lines since it's an ancient machine my modern standards. Buty weathering heavy paintjobs compensate for a lot.

>>97551300
Even my newer machine, an ender 3 at 0.2 has layer lines, no FDM avoids it, takes lots of sanding, filing and filling.

>>97547277
ah... well unfortunately I dont have telegram. mostly because I really hate having to make an account with a phone number as a requirement...

maybe try gofile?

>>97551045
disagree. auto supports will never be as good or efficient as doing it yourself unless you're retarded

>>97551336
What the hell is gofile???
and like telegram is fine, they're not gonna send a missile to your house because you wanted to download a marine action figure
But yea not doing it otherwise sorry, I don't mess with file hosting or whatever, not my thing I got my hands full already, I apologize

>>97551769
Its basically just a free unlimited anonymous file sharing platform for big files.

Just drag and drop whatever is needed to share, wait for it to upload, then share the link.

I do have soulseek if you use that at all.

>>97552272
You forgot the "pay for the data to share the files for someone else's benefit when they are too lazy to just get on telegram"

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Got my printer room up to a balmy 38c and my quality improved dramatically. I have a 200w heater and a temp controller, just need to pick out a grow tent. Any tents or enclosure recs before I order the first one on amazon? printer is a mars 4 ultra

>>97551769
Telegram has repeatedly sold users' information to GW
>>97552301
The fuck are you talking about "pay for the data" when anon mentioned a free filesharing website.
Part of me thinks the huge autistic push for Telegram was a GW psyop to easily get the IPs/phone numbers of the most prolific sharers

>>97553401
The website may be free, internet access is not.
If you aren't aware of this your parents are probably still responsible for covering those costs.

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>>97551336
You don't need a phone number for telegram anymore.

>>97553568
>You don't need a phone number for telegram anymore.
NTA, but really?

>>97553401
>Telegram has repeatedly sold users' information to GW
They must be counter bribing them too because there have been people selling stuff in broad daylight for years with zero consequence
To each their own psyop and fearmongering tho I guess

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>>97532927
I only just started and the supports are what I'm having issues with, anything they touch turns to shit for me. Looks good from a certain angle other than the bit i broke.

>>97553485
You have a metered connection? Are you in the third world?

>>97553708
that looks pretty good
yeah supports is still my biggest problem
something you could try is making resin supports and using Resin2FDM to see if you get better results.

>>97553789
Anon you're not helping yourself. ISP's don't sell the same plans everywhere, you go 5 blocks in a city and the plans offered will be different.

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>>97553568
you lied to me anon

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>>97554703
HE FELL FOR IT!!!!

>>97554675
NTA but i haven't had a metered connection since like 2013 and even then it was large enough to download plenty, are you a poor phoneposter that can't watch youtube or anything like that also or are you just being retarded and pretending because you said something stupid earlier, if the former please post your plan so we can laugh.

>dude autosupports are so good now, just try them!
>try them
>print fails
Every time.

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>>97555489

>>97554881
>anecdote
That's nice.

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>>97554891
https://c3po.link/Q5BcWzVW6h
Do these settings
Auto orientate by yourself in 45 degrees or something nice
When done, just find the lowest spots on the model and add 2 or 3 more light supports to "anchor" better, or a medium one

That's it that's what i do

>>97555787
NTA but I do thinner supports with a higher density of supports with smaller tips, less scarring on the model and the pull of the plate is distributed more evenly.

>>97555767
Thanks anon.

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>>97532620
Not bad.
My first one was similar just with a fluorescent bulb since I couldn't grab a UV one right of the bat.
Call my new one the Ultrawave.

>>97557995
BASED
Just a fucking microwave
Love it

>>97558087
Timer is entirely mechanical and wiring diagram was inside. Just needed to plug the wall wart into the connectors for the magnetron.

>>97555489
Have the scans of the units from the Darkwater box been released yet? I'm interested in the whole Nurgle section.

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>>97558400
yea

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Pic related isn’t by me but I’m looking for stls of “dropper cap tops” to print and prime white and apply acrylic washes over so I can easily tell what tone the acrylic wash is without relying on the printing on the label.

So far the Ak interactive compatible cap stls have a low profile whereas the other stls designed for droppers Vallejo or armypainter use all have too much of a high profile.

I can’t find any droppers addon stls for Vallejo/armypainter styled caps that have a low profile.
Anybody know of any to post some like pic related without making the cap too tall?

>inb4 look up full cap replacements
I am not sure about trusting 3d printed resin replacement caps I feel the friction with the dropper screw will wear out the resins easily.

Does anyone have a trove with all miniatures of a user name Micron Miniatures at MyMiniFactory? Thx in advance.

>>97560532
I like these ones. The skull is fairly low.
cults /en/3d-model/art/paint-bottle-swatches

>>97562918
Thanks anon!
I think I saw an old Vallejo bottle in there so hopefully I can find an identical old Vallejo bottle style cap on aliexpress.
I wasn’t able to do that with armypainter or Ak interactive dropper bottles.

I've been using my air quality monitor a bunch to try and get a measure for how dangerous FDM printing with PLA actually is. Lots of youtube videos, generally ones sponsored by industrial grade air quality monitors or filtration systems, seem to paint it as "really bad because the number goes up when you have a workshop with multiple printers" but they don't provide any comparison data to see how bad it actually is. Home indoor air quality tends to be shit due to frying foods, using a fireplace, scented candles, air fresheners, cleaning chemicals, or other common household air pollutants, etc. I want to know how bad PLA printing is compared to these things, because right now all I've been able to determine is my expensive air purifier is effective at what it does.

>>97568710
And?

>>97569467
does anyone else have actual data about this stuff?

>>97569477
No I mean, "And your results?" your post is rather meaningless without your findings.

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i cant make telegram work to find the things i want am i retarded? I think I am.

I just want minis I can snatch for my d&d games but i get a total 0 results. any help for this hopeless newfag?

>>97569569
No, telegram has intentionally crippled search for free users, I haven't seen it in awhile but there were times that they directly advertised to me that I could improve search results by aying for premium.
You can use a search engine to find channels that will link you to the app though, so search in your browser.
Once you find a handful of good STL groups look for other users to give you invite links to the hidden private groups, but don't go begging for that right out the gate.

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how is the elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra 16K as far as sub $500 resin printers go? Its $479 on its site for the next 3 days, but I don't know if thats one of those forever sales like some stores do, or if its something I should consider jumping into.

>>97569612
16k is incredibly overboard, there is no need to spend ~$500 on a printer, but if you want to go for it.

>>97569612
I got one, it’s okay. I got it for the built in tank heater more than the 16k.

>>97569624
>built in tank heater
I don't get this, I'm in canada and I have a wood stove for heating, so temperature inside fluctuates and is uneven from one end of the house to the other and I've never had problems even when the area my printer sits has dropped down to 5C while printing overnight.
the resin does heat u a fair bit when the printer is active just by the chemical reaction it undergoes from being cured.
Hell I used some to patch up a cracked housing on a tail light at -15C and when I hit it with the UV flashlight after putting it on with a syringe it started steaming in the air quite noticeably.
got resin on my hand once and had the genius idea to just stick my hand in sunlight and cure it so I could break it off instead of trying to wash it and I damn near got a burn.

>>97569616
Whats a better price point to go for then? I know that you could get about the same results from 8k, but I mean I'm autistic as fuck about wanting to print duplicate oldhammer bits as well as bits that look like GW, so I wanted something that would pass under scrutiny. For some reason the idea just really appeals to me.

>>97569677
I've had 2 printers now and each cost me ~$300, the first was a halot one, the second a photon mono 4. Had I known it would be cheaper to fix the halot one before buying the 4 I would have done so, but I didn't learn to diagnose a repair until the LCD on my mono 4 went out, the halot one just needs a UV bulb but is only a 2k IIRC? it lasted me almost 4 years of very regular use. the mono 4 is an 8k

>>97569511
earlier in the other room

after an hour of sitting in a different room (printer and purifier were running in the other room)
>PM2.5: 10 ug/m^3
>HCHO: 0.011 mg/m^3
>TVOC: 0.050 mg/m^3
>53% humidity
>66 F

after an hour of sitting directly on top of the printer with the purifier in the room
>PM2.5: 4 ug/m^3
>HCHO: 0.050 mg/m^3
>TVOC: 0.231 mg/m^3
>23% humidity
>88 F

next tests:
>move the monitor to my desk and take another reading
>turn the filter off for a bit, then take all three readings again
>tomorrow, fry some food and see what the air quality monitor reads during the process

>>97569834
don't forget
>cum dum bum chum yum yum

>>97569834
not quite a full hour but whatever

same room as printer, but the other side of the room
>PM2.5: 6 ug/m^3
>HCHO: 0.009 mg/m^3
>TVOC: 0.041 mg/m^3
>46% humidity
>70 F

printer has been running for several hours at this point so the preliminary conclusion is
>it's really fine if you aren't sticking your face directly in the printer to get a whiff of that that freshly extruded filament smell
>and even then it's only a fraction of what I was seeing with resin printing

>>97569982
what are you talking about?

>>97570058
cum dum bum chum yum yum, of course

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>>97570058
without filter

other room
>PM2.5: 4 ug/m^3
>HCHO: 0.053 mg/m^3
>TVOC: 0.277 mg/m^3
>51% humidity
>70 F

next to printer
>PM2.5: 5 ug/m^3
>HCHO: 0.068 mg/m^3
>TVOC: 0.431 mg/m^3
>32% humidity
>82 F

other side of same room
>PM2.5: 5 ug/m^3
>HCHO: 0.056 mg/m^3
>TVOC: 0.326 mg/m^3
>46% humidity
>70 F

result: filters are more necessary than I expected and also more effective than expected

>>97570305
run the sensor in the kitchen while you're cooking with oil and/or run it next to a glade plugin.
establish household norm extremes that no one concerns themselves with masking up to deal with.

>>97570348
after my current print finishes I'll air out my home and then do just that.

New to 3d printing here, is APL the best filament for minis using a FDM 3D printer? Just wanna make sure.
>inb4 muh resin
I have a Flashforge 5m Pro. Also, I'm already gaming the system by 3d printing shit for 30 times cheaper than what Geedubs sells, why should some snobby faggot care how I do it?

>>97571920
I think PLA would probably be better than whatever APL is.
And the second part is for the same reason why a passerby would ridicule a retarded fuck for trying to use a hammer as a screwdriver, even if you make the claw work for one or two it's still the wrong fucking tool for the job and you're an idiot for trying.
But some motherfuckers are always trying to swim uphill.

>>97572106
Meant PLA, French is my first language so it automatically corrected to APL.
>inb4 "muh ESL"

>>97572191
PLA is the cheapest and safest and generally lowest hassle. ABS can be polished with acetone to hide the layer lines but that can damage the details too.

>vs resin
don't expect resin levels of detail, but with a .2 nozzle and the right supports you can achieve passable results on chunkier designs. As a general rule, if you can feel the layer lines when running your fingernail along them, they will be visible after painting.

>>97572469
Don't forget that ABS is a pain in the ass to get working right, PLA is plug and play, so is TPU, but ABS takes tuning, trial-and-error and an enclosure.

Yo, anyone here done anything with papsikels minis? Looking at their starcraft stuff so I can get an early start for the new wargame coming out soon

>>97572577
you are correct which is why I described PLA as "generally lowest hassle". I've printed ABS without an enclosure by cranking the heat on the nozzle and bed to the highest my printer could output but even then it was a bit shit and I don't recommend ABS unless you really know what you are doing and need ABS' qualities, or can't get hold of cheap PLA.

>>97572677
I have successfully printed a single item in ABS using cranked nozzle and bed heat with a rigged enclosure of a winter blanket, anything else ive tried was a fail.
this one item was a knurled knob to use on a dial switch in an old grain truck that needed to be strong enough to turn with a few pounds of force, attempted it in PLA first and it snapped.
Really wish I could get ABS working every time, I'd love for it to be my base material and switch to PLA only for terrain items.

>>97571920
it's not whether some autistic fag on the internet cares about how you do it or not. there will always be some shitbrained moron available to call you names whether you're doing it right or "wrong"
what you should be asking is whether you should care what some fag says about it or not (no)

>>97569612
The plain 4 Ultra is more than sufficient.
>>97569624
I use the standalone heater. Mostly just use it to get up to temp and to keep it warm while dripping. While printing it stays warm enough.

>>97569612
The difference that matters is the resin heater, so decide based on whether or not that's a feature you need.

>>97570305
>>97570348
baseline results. Printer had been off for several hours, with the air filters running.

other room
>PM2.5: 4 ug/m^3
>HCHO: 0.001 mg/m^3
>TVOC: 0.003 mg/m^3
>74% humidity
>59 F

next to printer
>PM2.5: 4 ug/m^3
>HCHO: 0.011 mg/m^3
>TVOC: 0.053 mg/m^3
>32% humidity
>82 F

other side of same room
>PM2.5: 4 ug/m^3
>HCHO: 0.005 mg/m^3
>TVOC: 0.024 mg/m^3
>46% humidity
>70 F

shortly after cooking food with the air purifier off: fried eggs (over medium)

next to stove
>PM2.5: 5 ug/m^3
>HCHO: 0.073 mg/m^3
>TVOC: 0.477 mg/m^3
>53% humidity
>66 F

Running the air filter now to get things back to baseline and tonight I'll take more measurements while cooking. Initial results are that printing PLA is about as polluting as frying eggs, though it's different contaminants so may not apples to apples comparison.

>>97573396
So now anons can see that there is absolutely no need to mask up for using a printer or dedicating a room to it, you wouldn't wear a rebreather to fry some hashbrowns for breakfast, you don't need one to print.
Thank you.

>>97542937
Yeah, I've been thinking of that, but I found it weird that there was no way to do it easier in a tool dedicated to making supports.
Of what use is Z axis anyway if I can't do this?
>>97543192
huh, interesting
Will experiment with this another time, printed what I needed already

>>97574026
if you wish to do it open the STLS you wish to stack in meshmixer, arrange them in the way you want them floating one atop another, then export them all as a single STL, throw that into lychee and autosupport it, because it is treated as a single file the arrangement will be preserved.
But a final time you are warned, this was a passing fad because it increased material wastage and more importantly resulted in failures more often which necessarily wasted a lot more material than a normal failure.

>>97573396
>though it's different contaminants so may not apples to apples comparison.
Yeah, it's worth remembering that VOC is a huge group of compounds, some rather harmless and others, well, Sarin and Soman are both VOC. And to make it even worse it's highly unlikely that any VOC detector is actually able to detect all of them, or be equally sensitive to all it does detect. All in all, the correlation between the reading and the actual danger may be weak, especially when we're (likely) looking at different VOCs instead of just comparing concentrations of roughly the same VOC mix.

has anyone got a good work flow down for going from AI to print?

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>>97573396
>>97570348

next to stove while frying fish

I think this is worse than printing PLA

>>97575207
fish have mercury in them.

>>97575287
Mmmmmmm, fish :)

>>97575981
I once lived in a town where the local fish had a mercury content so high it was reccomended you eat not more than 2 per year.
I have no problem with fish, but I passed on ever eating anything that came out of that river.

>>97576001
The NUCLEAR fish river
Bless you anon

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I kind of want to print up a whole regiment of these

>>97576001
I love living in a place where the government is so bent over by corporations that residents are told not to eat the local wildlife because they're so heavily polluted you'll fucking die

>>97569612
Alright this image convinced me to get a printer.
Are printer+wash and curing stations with it?
What printer is best mixture of good quality resolution, price and ease of use?

External ssd or hdd? In terms of lasting long and data recovery if worst comes to worst?

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How do you organize your files
I can't settle on a correct approach
Initially segregated them into separate scanned and proxy folders. But it didn't feel right enough. Now I'm trying to just reworking folder structure like this
Setting (Warhammer 40k) -> Faction (Eldar) -> Subfaction (Craftworld) -> Infantry -> Unit (Guardian) -> ProxyAuthorName/Scan

However it does irk me as well to not have stuff from particular creator bundled in one folder
Renaming folders from original names makes it harder to sometimes track updates as well

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New to 3d printing here, are Maris Pipers the best potatoes for minis using mashed potato? Just wanna make sure.
>inb4 muh resin
I have a bag of potatoes. Also, I'm already gaming the system by 3d printing shit for 30 times cheaper than what Geedubs sells, why should some snobby faggot care how I do it?

>>97576838
I would try Nicola potatoes. the high moisture content and low starch means they'll be more firm after cooking. should be good for retaining detail. something like a Russet would be preferable precooking but if you're going with mash I'd stick with low starch potatoes

>>97576810
I've mostly given up
I put warhammer things in the warhammer folder based on what army or theme they belong to
eg fantasy greenskin and sci-fi greenskins and marines etc
everything else goes to folders based on maker, if they are unkown then fantasy - contemporary - sci-fi separation
terrain the same method as minis but into a whole terrain folder

>>97576122
>>97576601
It was a paper mill upstream IIRC

>>97576810
by game and sub indexed by faction if necessary (not for battletech)
I go through with my STL viewer and visually reconfirm what I want to print before slicing, also throw stuff into meshmixer to make sure scale is good too.

Newfag here
Not tech savy..I've read FAQ and looked some stuff up about 'trannygram', see posts about that on other sites and threads about potential viruses from tustlemallet stl sharers. Is this true or a shitpost/fearmongering that the stl channels are a virus pot?

>>97576838
FDM fags BTFO.
That motherfucker has no layer lines.

>>97576810
If I can help it, sorting by creator.

>>97578081
I don't see how unless you cant separate artist from works, GW has taught us painfully that brand loyalty leads to problems, I don't label who made what, every STL stands by its own merit.

>>97578276
I do the same thing for saving artwork. In the event that I forget, I can see where credit is due and can provide a source or at least some sort of lead. Granted, STLs are going to be shared around in bulk more often than not.

>>97578383
>for source
Plebs can do their own image gathering.

>>97577848
I have a terabyte of stls and they're all from the blue arrow app. the groups have thousands of people in them, if someone shared a virus it'd be known quickly

>>97534700
>>97534918
Damn, thats a pretty nice OSL. Any tips?

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>>97578276

Dumb question, but has anyone found any place that does Heroes of Might and Magic minis besides heroes 3? Wanna use them for OPR skirmish, like the designs of the V-VII units, but can only find stls for III.

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>>97531233

>>97531418
of course u calibrate but it should only take like 5-10 prints to get it dialed in real good. going deeper is reddit tier autism for sure. you wanna know your ideal temps, you want a good flow rate, good dimensional accuracy.

can anyone suggest fully 3d printed board games and such for me? especially if they dont need multicolour

I’m seeing 16k resolution printers now.
Is that detail fidelity overkill or necessary as sculptors keep pushing ludicrously detailed parts onto every model’s polygons?

I’ve never printed a mini btw I’m a beginner that has just been hoarding stls on an external ssd.

>>97581715
16k resolution on what size screen? with what accuracy on the Z axis? A really good print on a 4k printer with 10 micrometer steps can already exceed the detail on injection molded plastics.

most of the the 16k printers I am seeing have much larger screens, so it won't be more detail, but it will allow for larger prints, or more models printed at once, but I do see some that have total batshit specs: accurate down to 2 micrometers in both the x and y directions? what the heck are people printing that needs detail so fine it requires magnification to accurately see, even up close?

>>97581715
what >>97581997 said. its all about the pixel xy size

>>97581997
>>97582023
I don’t really know this kind of stuff.
What site do I go to in order to see what’s a good printer for a beginner like me?

And how screwed am I going to be as an ubuntu Linux user because I just didn’t like windows 11?

>>97582306
Never go latest tech. Look for last model on sale.
>pixel xy size
Think of the printer’s build area as a TV screen.
>Resolution (2K, 4K, 8K): This is the total number of pixels on the screen.
>XY Pixel Size (The "Spec"): This is how big each individual pixel actually is on the screen, usually measured in microns (μm).
If you have two TVs with 4K resolution, but one is 50 inches and the other is 100 inches, the 50-inch TV will look much sharper because its pixels are smaller and packed tighter together. In 3D printing, smaller pixels = finer details.

When reading a spec sheet, you’ll see "XY Resolution" or "Pixel Size." Here is how to judge those numbers:
50 μm - Basic hobby prints.
35 μm - Passable tabletop miniatures
<25 μm - Professional-grade miniatures
OS is not a big deal. A lot of anons here recommend elegoo as a good brand to noobs as they are the best bang for buck with some good features that improve quality of life. Mars for 28/32mm minis. Saturn for bigger prints like vehicles.

>>97582327
Thanks for that post anon!

>Saturn for bigger prints like vehicles
Which particular Saturn model do you recommend a beginner that can do good for both 28/32mm minis and similar scaled vehicles?

>>97582306
>whats a good printer
Every major brand's entry level resin printers are pretty good. You don't need to overspend on the printer, so spend the money on good PPE and all the other supplies you will need instead. I had a mediocre experience with the Anycubic printers of a few years ago, but I don't know what their newer models are like. Look for a printer where you can easily get replacement third party FEP sheets/cartridges and vats. Some brands like to use non-standard sizes or form factors so you are locked into buying overpriced proprietary supplies.

Modern FDM printers are almost, but not quite, at the level of ease of use of 2D printers, and are really cheap now too, with far fewer supplies and safety equipment needed than SLA printers. Accurate to about 60 microns, which for a lot of people isn't good enough for miniatures. Great for terrain, gaming accessories, and general household items though.

For the ultimate setup, you will probably want both kinds of printers.

>linux
lychee is a popular slicer for resin printing and natively supports debian based distros (including ubuntu)
orca slicer for FDM also has a native linux version

>>97582340
Every printer on the market will do 28/32mm infantry. Vehicles you won't want to print as a single piece, so every printer can do those too.

>FDM print time scales with tool travel time. More surface area and infill means more printing time.
>SLA print time scales only with exposure time per layer and the vertical height of the print. If you can fit a whole squad in the print bed, then printing a whole squad will take the same time as printing just one.

>>97582345
>Some brands like to use non-standard sizes or form factors so you are locked into buying overpriced proprietary supplies.
Which brands do this so I can avoid them?

>>97582352
anycubic did it on their M3 printer, but that model is also very old now

>>97582361
Does elegoo do it right now?
What brand that makes good resin 3d printers doesn’t do this thing?

Also I read that some people prefer clear translucent resin over grey.
Will noticing those supports be easier in real life than the way things look in pictures?

>>97582505
There's nothing proprietary about the film itself; you can buy it by the roll and cut it to fit if you want.
>Translucent vs gray
There's a misnomer that clear resin somehow cures "better" because it's translucency allows for more UV to pass through it; I personally prefer gray because it allows me to see WTF I'm cleaning up when I'm filing down any support scars.

>>97581997
idk why retards on 4chan act like new = bad. like this guy is seriously trying to convince himself more resolution isn't a good thing because he's stuck with a mars 3 or some shit lol don't get your advice from 4chan kids

>>97582739
>don't get your advice from 4chan kids
Fair enough.
I trust it more than redditors because they just want upvotes whether they have to lie for them or not.

So what’s a trustworthy website that answers common 3d printing questions and concerns for techlets?

>>97582739
>New = Bad
No faggot, I'm saying you don't have to pay top dollar when the previous gen does the same job at the fraction of the cost. If you want to spend more money to flex online/compensate for a small penis then you do you.

>>97582678
That's not what misnomer means.
And anyone who understands physics can tell you that it is true.

>>97583302
how transparent is transparent resin on the UV wavelengths? just because visible light passes through does not mean UV light does

>>97584034
it does block some UV, but the shine of the UV flashlight makes it all the way through, so it fully penetrates. so it has a purple "shadow" where the UV passing through is weaker than the UV passing beside.

>>97582831
use your brain. for example, instead of listening to dickheads on Reddit or 4chan about safety and manufacturing you can just go read the SDS (gloves required, mask's not unless you have poor ventilation. if you eat it, drink some water). go directly to the source of information, don't get it secondhand. most manufacturers have details listed already and explain them thoroughly

>>97584161
Anon, you do know that unless you can see UV with your eyes, any light that you see passing through the cured resin is in the visible spectrum and does not necessarily contain UV, right?

A better test would be to cover some resin with a cured raft and see if you can cure it.

>>97586889
Ultraviolet has the same penetration as photons, if you can see the visible spectrum of the UV device, then the invisible portion is penetrating.

>>97586995
*visible photons.

>came home to another print failure (FDM)
two bed adhesion failures in a row. I thought it was just an oily plate but there is clearly something more wrong here. What could it be? don't tell me I've got greasy filament...

>>97587205
have you put blue painters tape on your bed?

>>97587225
no I haven't. Looks like the failure occurred about 5 hours into the print? hard to tell. I thoroughly de-greased the PEI sheet and will try again with a quicker print. I should have never fried that fish it got grease EVERYWHERE

>>97587266
You fried the fish in oil beside your printer??

>>97587288
I don't have a large home

>>97587205
Do you print with a brim?

How are gunpla glass files on most 3d printing resin?
I’m talking about glass files that leave the plastic looking glossy.
If they are a bad choice then what diamond file grit should I use instead?

>>97589253
Yellowing unless you use High Clear resin, which is a bitch to work with and requires cranking up exposure times to near double.

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>pre-supported model with chunky resin style supports keeps failing to print on the earliest layers
>recalibrate printer
>clean print bed
>dry filament
>try adding a brim and notice it's not being added where I think it should
>look closer at the model
motherfucker

>>97590139
Lmfao, had this with resin once a long time ago, took me like 4 tries to figure it out.

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>>97576256
the squad grows one print at a time

>>97593644
post them after painting

>>97586995
So you didn't try it. You probably should actually verify your hypothesis experimentally before you present it as fact. This isn't Reddit.

>>97594884
Photons are photons anon, seethe and cope that you cant into particle physics.

>>97595242
And also what kind of retarded are you that you thought fully cured resin should stop photons from curing resin under it? both cured and uncured are still transparent you dumb monkey fuck.

>>97595242
>>97595256
This is a very simple experiment to conduct, anon. All you need is some resin and a way to cure it. You don't even need a printer, although I'm starting to doubt that you own either of these.

Go ahead and try it. You may be surprised.

>>97595292
You are retarded, literally.
Ive informed you of the facts from observational experience with the physical reality.
You are a noprints armchair critic that appears to have a <85 iq.

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/toy/ solider crossboarder here, thought you might appreciate this.
Working on a retro-style RTB01 Space Marine figure for printing. Still a lot of work to do, but here he is so far with a digitized Major Bludd someone had for free on Cults and a 3X size scan of an actual RTB01 Marine.
Plan is he's gonna be firmly retro-styled but hopefully still quite poseable. Articulation I have in mind:
>Balljoint neck and waist
>Balljoint or universal hips and shoulders (haven't decided which) with thigh and bicep swivels
>90 degree hinges for knees and elbows
>Peg swivel wrists
>Balljoint ankles
So slightly better than an actual 80s Joe but still fairly simple. Proportions will be a little funky kinda on purpose, notably the hands will be fairly large both to match the old models and also so swapping weapons will be easier. Weapons will have simple pegs for handles.
Should be 100% resin-printable with either no or very few non-printed components necessary. I've had very good results with Resione Tough 74 (well, TH-BJD in my case but it's the same stuff in fleshtone instead of grey) so I'm pretty confident in my ability to make this work.
Still a lot of work to do but pretty happy so far.

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>>97595840
And like an idiot I put the cables right over the chest ridges. Fixed that.

>>97595302
You haven't observed shit. I asked you to perform an experiment utilizing a drop of resin and 30 seconds of your time and you continue to refuse to. At this point I have to assume that you won't because you don't actually own any resin.
> retarded
is giving advice in a discussion about 3D printing when you don't own resin. What sort of mental illness causes this anon? While you're thinking about that, and hopefully reconsidering your life and why you're doing this, here are some other experiments you can perform (but won't, because you apparently enjoy being stupid) in order to learn a bit more about how light works.
>sit in a windowed room in direct sunlight, report how long it takes to get a sunburn
>the glass is transparent to photons, surely it can't block uv-b...can it?
>hold your hand over a bright white light, now hold it over a bright red light, notice a difference?
>photons are photons, surely one spectrum of visible light is not blocked by your skin while another passes right through...right?
And finally, a thought experiment that may be lost on you, since you don't print:
>if cured resin allows any significant uv to pass through it, how does a tank cleaning cycle work?

Are we at a point where 3d scans are good enough that someone could print a high quality resin version of one, then cast it in rubber and then make a pewter version thats basically indistinguishable from an citadel original?

>>97596650
Probably, you might need to sharpen the sculpt up a TINY bit in Blender or whatever but honestly the difference in detail is barely noticeable in person, especially when painted. That said it might be a bit of a complicated process as whilst you can now get silicone that will cure with 3D resin (Siraya Tech Defiant) you would need to cast a regular resin master from that and then make a heat-resistant mould from a different rubber to cast the metal parts in. Definitely possible but not easy.

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Should I print this Engine piece by piece or try and go all in one go?

>>97596822
Ive got a mars3 pro. Im having serious adhesion issues a print like this would just stuck to the FEP not the build plater what am I doing wrong? Stock settings for elegoo abs 3.0+

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>>97595840
>>97595920
It looks great man
I have a lot of the RT marines as model files if you needed more stuff to study/make into parts
Would love to have some of these on the shelf after you got done with them too
I also make/have made a lot of custom weapon sculpts and I could probably help you out if you looking for that type of help

>>97596321
NTA but I too use clear resin and it's way simpler than you have made it out to be
I print things hollow sometimes, usually a hollow print means sticking an diode inside to cure the interior.
With clear resin it is not necessary.
But also anon has a point about a basic understanding of physics, lie 10th grade understanding, will allow you to figure this out for yourself without experimentation.
Clear = light passes through
opaque = light does not pass through
Very simple shit.

>>97597756
>Clear = light passes through
>opaque = light does not pass through
>Very simple shit.
And yet you don't understand any of it. Re-read what I typed earlier. Pay particular attention to the part about the cleaning cycle.
>sit in a windowed room in direct sunlight, report how long it takes to get a sunburn
>the glass is transparent to photons, surely it can't block uv-b...can it?
>hold your hand over a bright white light, now hold it over a bright red light, notice a difference?
>photons are photons, surely one spectrum of visible light is not blocked by your skin while another passes right through...right?
>if cured resin allows any significant uv to pass through it, how does a tank cleaning cycle work?

>>97598126
anon, hollow prints in clear cure on the inside without a diode being stuck up their holes
try paying attention to the pertinent information for a change, or is your only purpose here to argue and be noisy?

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>>97597499
Thanks, anon! Would definitely appreciate those if you don't mind.
Also made some more progress, not a lot but I've done some more basic detailing, proportion adjustment and started on engineering.

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>just got told by a teammate they have had sex
>and that they are a bodybuilder
this was after they reported me for running over his squad in a jeep for sitting at the edge of the map and sniping

>>97598618
For God's sakes anon, if you get a failed print with clear resin do NOT run a cleaning cycle. The cured resin is transparent to UV, ya know! You'll cure the whole vat!

>hollow prints in clear cure on the inside
To the same degree that they were cured when they left the build plate, more or less. It's no different than opaque resins. It's only confusing to midwits that don't understand that something can be opaque to one frequency and transparent to another. I gave multiple examples of this occurring in your daily life, but apparently you exist in a different reality.

We can keep going though. Want to know why beer bottles are brown or green traditionally? It shouldn't matter, photons are photons, but there's a practical reason. Or how about that plastic cover that goes over your printer, assuming that you own one? You know, the one that protects the resin vat from UV? Can you see through it? I know, it's crazy!

>>97599757
Cleaning cycles are a scam to waste your resin, haven't run one in all my years of printing, that's what the plastic scraper is for.
>I can keep going
Yeah that's typical for a moron talking out of their ass.

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Newish printer here, is the resin really as dangerous as people say it is?

>>97599974
Depends, are you drinking it or taking it intravenously?

>>97600231
I keep it in the living area with no ventilation, i use gloves and glasses and that’s about it. Don’t really care for the taste that much. Haven’t considered an IV but maybe in the future.

>>97600517
you're already overboard with the glasses, don't do the aforementioned or other stupid things like trying to use it for lube internally or externally and you'll be fine.

>>97599974
If there's one thing that's heavily exaggerated it's how much we know about whether or not it's dangerous. So pick a level of caution that feels good to you, and we'll see in 20-40 years if you should have been more careful than that.

>>97599773
>noprint detected
This conversation is making more sense now.
>moron talking out of their ass
Says the guy that doesn't print, arguing about the properties of resin. When you do eventually buy a printer, pay close attention to the clear plastic cover that goes over the top of it. See, it's not really clear, not to UV, but it is to visible light. Truly wonderful stuff.

>>97599974
Last year, I would have said no. This year I'm not sure. The SDS's keep changing. As the other anons said, don't drink it and wear gloves at a bare minimum, if only to keep from getting it all over the place. I went and finally broke down a few months back and bought a grow tent big enough to fit my printers so I could rig up ventilation, but I also use it as a spray booth for airbrushing. I'm not sure that I would have gone through the trouble just for the resin. I don't wear a respirator for resin work but I do wear one for airbrushing, even with ventilation. Make of that what you will. And like anon said
>we'll see in 20-40 years
Margarine and sugar were considered as healthy options in the '80's, and consumption of red meat and/or eggs was guaranteed to kill you. The experts are not always correct the first time around.

>>97600826
>I'm not sure
Yeah we know you don't have a clue, like in all else.

>>97586995
>if you can see the visible spectrum of the UV device, then the invisible portion is penetrating.
Not necessarily, no. While photons are photons, materials aren't just clear or opaque. Instead they absorb various amounts of various wavelengths. It's thanks to this we can have coloured transparent things, green glass for example is transparent to the green portion of the visible spectrum, but opaque to the rest of it. This isn't confined just to the visible part of the spectrum either, so for example metallic germanium is perfectly opaque to visible light, but highly transparent for medium and long wave infrared. Since it also has an extremely high index of refraction this has made it a sorta popular material for lenses in some IR optics. Or to go the other way, the coloured-but transparent hood on most resin printers will let some colour of visible light through, but block the rest, and most importantly most UV light in order both to protect the environment around them from their UV source and the resin in them from environmental UV light (given how the light in those printers barely qualify as UV I suspect the latter is far more important). This selective opacity (along with the selective emission property that comes as part of the same electron-jumping phenomena) is also used by astronomers to determine the chemical composition of distant stars and nebula, etc etc.

>>97600958
regardless curing the inside of a hollow clear resin print without sticking a diode up it's holes is rather conclusive.
A point of note which has been repeatedly ignored here.

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>>97600677
Make sense, see you guys in a few decades when we find out resin is asbestos for tabletop nerds.

>>97601064
trim and clean your nails, dirty bitch.

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Work continues on Joehammer 40K/G.I. Rogue. Shoulders and elbows sorted, and I reckon the rest of the joints should be fairly simple. "Hardest" part will be the shoulder pads and even then I have a good idea of what to do.

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>>97599251
>>97601582
Looks great so far
and yea just tell me your telegram I can send everything on there, also yea didn't show it in the first picture but I did make the shotgun too

>>97601757
Thanks, it's Crazy Cobra.

>>97601781
Which one?
There's like 5 in the search results

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>>97601856
Look for the guy with this PFP.

>>97601868
...Or I could have just given you my axtual 'gram handle, which is @crazy_cobra. Durr.

>>97601008
>point of note which has been repeatedly ignored here
Many such cases. Sad. I still want to know how the cover can block UV but I can still see through it. I mean, photons are photons, right? While we're at it, I'd like to know how the tank cleaning cycle works because if the resin is transparent to visible light, then it's obviously transparent to everything.

3D resin printing, as we know it today, would not work if the resin didn't become at least mostly opaque to UV when it cured. It's obvious when you think about it. It's even more obvious when you test it. But Reddit told you otherwise and you're a smart young lad, so don't let the real world get in your way.

Also, since we're on the topic and assuming that any of you actually print shit, who the hell goes to a translucent as their first choice? I'm actually curious.

>>97600936
Show me on the doll where I hurt you anon.

>>97602803
>interior of hollows cure with clear
>but somehow cured clear blocks uv
Figure it out moron.

>>97602807
He huffed too much resin and now he has poo brain. Silly, silly, NIGGER anon drink and jerk with the resin, use it for lube with his 18inch NIGGER dildo… very, very sad indeed.

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>>97531233
I'm deeply disappointed someone said telegram groups for stls but theses are all proxy's and not true games workshop models.

Why hide something if it's fine to use proxy's?

>>97602808
I've already explained it. Your interior wasn't as cured as the exterior. You could cut a print in half and check the hardness if you were interested. You could also stack up a few rafts with liquid resin between them and cure the stack to observe how far the UV penetrates into cured resin. You could even just run a cleaning cycle, which anyone that actually prints shit will tell you is Step One when recovering from a failed print. You'll do none of these things because you don't own a printer or resin, and your cognitive dissonance is making you angry at me for pointing this out, but I'm not the one that created this problem. Be angry at the people that convinced you that the UV-protective cover on the printer that you don't own can't block UV while allowing light in the visual part of the spectrum to pass through. I never told you that. I told you the opposite of that.

>>97603257
The fact that you went there speaks volumes about your character, and perhaps your fetishes. If you ever buy a printer and have questions about it, go ahead and ask them here but understand that not everyone here owns a printer, but some of them will still give advice. I'm not sure why people do that, but perhaps you have some insight into that.

Related question for anyone, including you two, which you may not be able to answer: why the fuck does anyone print with translucent in the first place? I get it if you need to print some kind of art project that needs to be transparent, but most of us here that print, print miniatures. What's the draw of translucent? I can tell you what's fucked about it, but I'd like to hear the counter argument first.

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>>97603755
keep looking

>>97603755
Because that company usually closes every single group it can get its hands on.

>>97603761
>Your interior wasn't as cured as the exterior.
Except that it was, when you picked up and examined my prints you must have had something stuck in your eye.

>>97603755
Usually the hardest stuff to find is like guard or forge world

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I want to make an Empire army using a lot of Highlands Miniatures stuff. I like this little cannon.

>>97603755
>proxy
There is nothing temporary about 3D prints, they are superior in most cases when it comes to detail and design.
The only kind of person who is looking for perfect GW scans to print is a cuckold who is playing in GW stores and tourneys, and if you're into the corporation like that then you could at least fund them, else those tourneys and stores will disappear.
The rest of us are fine with GW dying and us keeping dead games alive by community effort, so "official" doesn't matter when it comes to miniatures.

stfu esl

>>97605719
why are you talking to yourself on a forum? you can do that without involving the keyboard.

>>97605706
But it's absolutely garbage

>>97605787
You still play 40k in 2026, your opinion on what is and is not garbage is not valid.

corny third worlder won't take the hint (we think you're retarded and don't want to read the dumb shit you translate into our language)

>>97605873
>passive aggressive non-reply
YWNBAW, hard as you may try.

>>97605873
Are you, a burgermutt, seriously slinging accusations of third world status in your glass house? IIRC your population is now more than 50% third world and most of you can't even afford mcdonalds.

>>97605796
Brother i haven't played since 2014. I wanted to see if scans had improved and to my surprise it's the same shit from 2008 even all the nids models from anon are still being shared..

Nobody made new scans

>>97605961
>muh scans
>muh 12 years of no interest
A) scans are trash that only get resorted to when no superior 3rd party alternates exist, there are a lot of models and some get missed.
B) if you actually played 12 years ago then just use your existing collection, fuckwit.
>inb4 "I sold it"
Or you never had one in the first place, either way you currently are, and likely always have been, a nogames secondary faggot.

>>97605976
God, you sound like a sales person.

>>97605990
That's hilarious coming from the GW addict who can't into non "official" miniatures.

>>97606004
Well. It's more about consistency. I'd like it to atleast match the art style and most 3rd party users are so in denial about their 3rd party models they'll start to attack and get aggressive when called out.

>>97605990
he's an Indian so pretty much is. ignore him. new scans are dropping every day, I just posted that screenshot including darkwater scans, the new warsmith and the new victrix guard lol. you just don't know where to look. takes longer than 5 minutes browsing telegram to get to the good groups

>>97605976
nogames poo in loo

>>97606104
>>97606114
you're defending the retard who says the only scans out there are over a decade old as a blatant and transparent attempt to take a steaming crap on 3D printing.
Think about it.

>>97606117
the opposite in fact i'm actually pointing out that he's retarded. please refrain from replying to my posts without triple checking yours first thank you

>>97606207
Double check who you replied to first. The comment chain is easy to follow, alternating posts are different anons.

>>97606247
buddy you're fucking retarded. I'm calling you a hoe for talking about scans as if they're not what everyone and their mom begs for constantly and I'm calling him a retard for spending 5 minutes on arrow app and complaining he didn't find them. fucking esl

>>97606555
Anyone begging for scans isnt printing themseles, they're dogwhistling that they're looking for troves to C&D

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Progress has been somewhat slowed by water spilling on my keyboard (ordered replacement just in case the thing is fucked and that's due tomorrow, thank god) but did get some more work done on it. I'm really quite pleased with this so far, though I think even with the deliberately slightly wonky/retro styling the arms are currently a smidge too long. That'll be easy enough to fix though.
Side note, and I know I'm getting ahead of myself here but if I pull this off I need to make some other oldhammer toys to go with it. Chaos Marines are an obvious one of course but I kinda wanna make a Space Crusade style Tyranid Warrior at some point. Love those guys.

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>>97532484
tried another one, I think it came out a bit nicer

>>97550640
I did it myself because auto supports were failing.

>>97606104
Mew scans are dropping every day, this season is wild.

If I recall an imperial guard player proved without a doubt this to be untrue last year over thirteen threads

But maybe you didn't post then..

Oh yeah, I know what you’re talking about. “Sole” or whatever you call it aren’t true scans, they’ve had their geometry modified. I don’t know how people get that confused. It’s usually newer people who make that mistake, and they tend to be overly confident about it.

>>97605013
>Except that it was
And you know this how? Did you break it apart and conduct any sort of test or examination, or did you just assume that it was, based on a false premise that you never verified, just like you assumed everything else? Seriously, curing a stack of rafts with liquid resin between them is a very easy and cheap experiment. You may be surprised at what you find. Of course, you'll need some actual resin and rafts to do this. That may be a problem for people that haven't actually printed anything, but it's the easiest thing in the world for the rest of us.

Again, if resins remained significantly transparent to UV after curing, 3D printing with resins would not be possible. Be happy that it doesn't work the way that you seem to think that it does. We'd be stuck with FDM if it did.
>my prints
I'm not sure that you've made any. On the off chance that you did, you didn't answer my question: why translucent? Gray is the industry standard for a reason. I could tell you why, but people that have printed minis for any length of time already know why.

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>FDM seems like it's gotten good between advancements like Resin2FDM and people whittling away at settings to make smaller layer heights possible
>dive in
>actually Resin2FDM only works on presupported kits that have their shit manually placed + loose enough from the model to make the split in Blender possible
>also for all the up-play about quality improvements you're still going to be whittling at support scarring and overhang sags on 99% of shit listed on Yeggi
>Oh and all these different settings are a crapshoot between CoreXY vs bedslingers, Orca vs proprietary softwares, filament types etc.
How the fuck did 4CHAN of all places undersell how much cock these things suck Jesus Christ on a bike

>>97609571
garbage in garbage out

I've been enjoying the results I've been getting from quality pre-supports. Shitty autosupports will not work. They need to be chunky with cross bracing.I print them as they are with the Orca settings recommended for the black PLA I bought in bulk. Clipping off all the supports takes time, but a rotary tool for clean up is really helpful. I personally still prefer right now it to the enormous hassle that was washing, curing, and keeping the resin work area clean.

t.
>>97532484
>>97576256
>>97593644
>>97608436

>>97578383
you can always add stuff like the author to the file properties to make it easier to search anyways

>>97603761
>why the fuck does anyone print with translucent in the first place?
I may need to print something transparent so may as well take it
Lets me check easily that no resin was trapped
Will cure trapped resin if need be

>>97603761
>Related question for anyone, including you two, which you may not be able to answer: why the fuck does anyone print with translucent in the first place?
NTA but Cockpits and stuff like that are the main thing I can think of. I also had an idea for some Genestealer sculpts with a Xenomorph style clear dome but on their backs, with their spine and organs visible underneath. Might have a go at that if I can get my auxiliary printer set up.

quick, which resin are you using
I need to order new batch and I want to try something else. My current Anycubic Ultra Tough is starting to piss me off. I like how durable it is, but scarring after supports is insane. It feels like it expands too much and can't get sharp details and supports blend together and to the model. At least I think it's resin fault.

>>97610045
Might be your settings- I found with my favourite resin (Resione TH-BJD) that because of the pale colour it needs less exposure time but you do have to adjust rest time and light-off delay and such to compensate. I will say though, Resione Tough 74 is much easier to print nicely due to being a normal grey so if you're only doing tabletop stuff that's a good bet, but me being the autismo I am who actually has a use for fleshtone resin I'm stuck with dealing with the annoyance of pale resin.
That said Tough 74 (and TH-BJD, which is the exact same stuff in a different colour) is amazing. It doesn't cost THAT much and it's ridiculously strong. Like "you can print functional balljoints with it" strong. Definitely worth considering if durability is an important factor.

>>97609175
>Gray is the industry standard for a reason
NTA but the reason is to make stuff look like injection molded plastic.

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Guys, OPR is running massive discounts on their store until March 10th.
They’re offering 50% off for everyone — just copy the promo code displayed at the top of their store and apply it at checkout. In addition, Patreon Tier 2 supporters ($10 tier) get 70% off.

That works out to roughly 120 models for around $30, which is an excellent deal.

Even if you’re not into their game system, they produce high-quality proxy models compatible with popular fantasy and sci-fi tabletop ranges, alongside their own original designs. For example:
Tyranids Hive Aliens
Imperium Human Defense Force
Vampire Counts Vampiric Undead
Skaven Ratmen
Eldar High Elf Fleets
Adepta Sororitas Blessed Sisters
Tau Eternal Dynasty
Necrons Robot Legions
And many more.
I am not a member of their stuff but a paypig, even if you are all pirates I suggest you to check it out.

If I'm printing terrain and vehicles in an eight color printer does setting purge to infil largely eliminate the purge problem?

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daily reminder that you don't need a resin printer to print your minis

>>97613976
suboptimal but nice

If I set color purging to infil will I generally solve the color purging waste problem?

>>97613976
What nozzle size is it?

>>97613976
Lol, no.
Lets see you do an epic scale bloodthirster with paper thin wings.

You cunts lied to me, 3D printing is actually expensive as shit. I went to a local store to ask if they could print some Warhammer proxies for me. They said yes and that they normally charge 14 dollars per mini but that they were willing to give me a 1 dollar discount because it was a six piece order. I could buy actual GW plastic for that price and not rob myself of the satisfaction of supporting an indie miniature company.

>>97614369
That's because buying prints is fucking retarded, you buy a printer, pirate files and print for yourself.
People who sell prints all have jew levels of greed.

>>97614369
that's a bullshit price, you should be paying 5 dollars per mini or lower
before i was taken down for IP infringement i sold loads of zoanthropes for 20/kit and biovores for 15 each

>>97614369
the real reason they charge GW prices for minis is just to not undercut their main product....

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>>97614369
pretty profitable for me

>>97610045
siraya tech fast abs-like. i like it. sunlu abs-like works as the inexpensive version

>>97614692
Post nose as per >>97614431

>>97614369
Do you think your local store does not have to pay rent, wages and taxes? You either print yourself or get it somewhat cheaply from a friend or someone you know in private, not from a professional seller or store.

Having to get a 3d printer license in America ha ha ha

>>97609855
>I may need to print something transparent so may as well take it
The juice may be worth the squeeze there if you're doing a shitload of transparent stuff, but for once in a while? Fuck that.
>Lets me check easily that no resin was trapped
Trapped resin is a .stl problem. Are there still slicers in common usage in 2026 that don't spot (and usually correct) this? Fuck, even Chitubox doesn't get fooled by this anymore.
>Will cure trapped resin if need be
Yeah, about that...

>>97609868
Not a bad reason. Bit of a pain in the ass unless you're doing a big run of them though.

>>97611265
Wrong. Or maybe right, but not the primary reason. The primary reason is for making inspection and post processing easier. Gray is very revealing of details. (That's probably why it's favored in the injection molding industry as well.) When you're printing in translucent (or white, or black, or something low contrast like that), it's easy to overlook problems or missed support scars until you get to the priming stage. With gray, you can quickly eyeball the obvious problems before the prints even come off the supports, and spotting any support scars that need cleaning is extremely easy.
>also significantly shorter exposure and cure times than translucents, but since exposure and cure times don't require active participation, they're not the drawbacks that some imagine them to be

>>97614692
Where you selling an entire pallet of life sized titans wtf
What kind of print exactly sells for THIS much even with like large scale FDM props and fancy stuff?

>>97615245
it's volume, not about the print in particular except for what sells a lot

>>97615414
Yea but that much?
I think you just went into inspect element and added two extra zeros to try and flex off like two-four sales
8500 even in 90 days off prints with a very specific 87 cents somehow on the end
Yea that's BS, gtfo nose man

>>97614149
0.2 nozzle and 0.05 layer height

>>97614300
sorry man, i play real games

Can one make fdm prints of 28mm infantry that are of equal quality to resin prints? Or should FDM be reserved for terrain and vehicles?

>>97599974
I work around production where people are welding, sanding and spray painting a lot. If it's a one off you'll be okay, for longer exposure I wholeheartedly believe you need a respirator, gloves and proper ventilation. Seen enough 30 year old that look wel into their 40's to know that whatever fumes isn't healthy.

>>97615481
You really need EQUAL quality or 90% is enough?
FDM will not be equal to resin in the near future but it can be good enough, specially from table level.
See pic related, its my frostgrave warband

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>>97615580
ah yes of course i forgot to put the pic

>>97615583
and how many hours per mini?
my favorite part of my resin printer, is that i can print 24 models JUST as fast as one model.