Thread #4493120
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>ctrl f: sqt
>none
I'm going to start this one off with a stupider question than usual.
Say you were asked to shoot a few wedding shots at the last minute and all you've shot before was rocks, leaves, birds and the odd landscape or building corner... what do? Asking for a friend of course but pls reply quick.
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>>4493120
Do it the price of a good lunch and maybe $50 to cover "insurance" or fuel and stuff. If they're asking you last minute you likely know them in some capacity.
Or do it completely free as a favour depending on the kind of relationship you have with them.
Don't charge them a real amount of money because the odds of you doing poorly is non-zero and if they pay you decently for a shit job they'll be pissy.
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>>4493140
For street an 85 is basically just a portrait lens. You're normally too close to things for actual "street ""photography"" with anything more than a 50. Could still net you some nice photos, it'd just be fundementally different than your normal wide angle scene.
I personally dont know why you'd get primes of every signficant focal length from 24 to 120 because the individual steps aren't majorly different to the last; get a 120 or 135 and do something truly different.
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>>4493120
Why in almost 99% portraits the ears are out of focus?
I think ear is also important part of portrait?
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>>4493146
It's just too shallow depth of field
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Is there an unwritten rule or something that tells you must blur the ears when you shoot portrait?
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>>4493146
>>4493148
Most portrait shooters are bokeh fags because they're not in studio conditions, but want as much seperation between the subject and the background as possible (which is fair).
So at the apertures needed to get a blurry AF background you only get a few milimeters of DoF, and the eyes are where you focus. Ears are 4-5cm behind your eyes and are too far away from the focus point.
You can absolutely shoot at narrower apertures and get the whole head in focus but then your background will be more recognisable and perhaps distracting.
In studio conditions it's just a choice. You have a controlled background and strong lighting which should allow a deep DoF with low ISO. If the ears or nose are out of focus at that point it's just a deliberate decision.
>>4493153
Just create a standard filesystem on your PC and sort by date. Unless you mean on your phone which in that case go fuck yourself obviously. pic rel.
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>>4493146
>>4493148
>>4493154
Not an expert in any sense, but I guess one reason one might choose to do this (if it is a deliberate choice) would be to give the head more shape/depth? Eyes in focus + ears out of focus gives a clear visual cue as to the ears being further back.
You're probably right though, that in most cases this is not a deliberate choice, but just what happens when an amateur portraitfag minimizes aperture and focuses on eyes, becaues that's what he remembered from a youtube video.
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>>4493303
Used canon r10 off ebay. $400-500 just like a new r100. Wait for a deal.
Or maybe any sony a6*** model newer than an a6000. More lenses, better autofocus and interface.
>>4493306
no rear dial, nada for buttons and customization, fixed screen, face detect af only, basically the $500 mirrorless version of a $150 canon rebel dslr
The interface is bad beyond description
The jpegs are very low quality
Everything on it is slow and feels like 2012
I’d rather use a DSLR or a phone
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>>4493298
Avoid the R100. It is a dressed up rebel DSLR just as some other anon mentioned with tech from 2015. The R50 is like a whopping extra $100 and at least uses current gen AF, JPEG engine, controls etc.
Even then I wouldn't get the R50 unless you really wanted to keep things as small as possible. I'd get the R10.
Even then I wouldn't get the R10 unless you really wanted to stay using APS-C. I'd get a used RP for $400-500 as >>4493302 said.
Even then... I wouldn't get the RP unless you were dead set on mirrorless. Which you might be. Mirrorless is nice. My R6 is like 60% of the weight and bulk of my older 5D MkIII, and focus peaking is TOP MINT.
I'd get a full frame DSLR instead since the RP has the same sensor as a 6DII but you could just buy a 6D MkII if money is tight (or a 6D MkI or 5D MkII/MkII) and now look: you've saved a couple hundred dollars and can now buy a better lens because used EF lenses are cheap and cheerful. RF Lenses are ungodly expensive. Mirrorless cameras are nice for a slueth of reasons but if you're pinching pennies on the body I would recommend against it.
OR, get a used APS-C DSLR for $50-150 if you're on the fence and if you think photography isnt for you, you sell it for 80% of what you bought it and for what is basically a rental fee you get to know what you're in for. I don't necessarily recommend this if you can afford better but it's a decent route.
>t. Tried R100. Owned R50. Owns R6II
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>>4493347
Buy a CANON FIVE DEE MARK THREE or SIX DEE MARK TWO and a CANON EF FIFTY MILLY METRE F1.8 STM
If you are having fun already them buy a CANON EF TWENNY FOH DASH ONE O FIVE F-4 EYE ESS ELL YOU ESSEM
When you are good at using that you can grow the fuck up and start shooting film with a 6x6 TLR and eventually a 4x5 view camera. There is no good reason to own a so called nice digital camera unless you are a soulless pro snapshitter.
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>>4493347
Nikon D200 for vibes or d300 for ease of use
Nikon 35mm f1.8 DX
Nikon DX 16-80 f2.8-4
Dont waste your time with a cannot pos 5dicks. Nikon is better and cheaper. A nikon apsc and canon full frame have the same quality.
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>>4493347
I really like my rp actually its not gonna shoot at 200 fps for a minute 100 times a day or make a 60 fps film but who actually needs that and I think you would appreciate specifically the small size and minimal weight (with the 50mm prime on a strap it feels like it's barely there)
Also I think it's extremely easy to use with the touch screen even though it has less buttons than your older dslr types
>It's le gimped
Well obviously the lower end model won't be as good as the stuff that retails for double or triple the cost
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>>4493389
>Nikon is better and cheaper
No trolling outside of /b/ please anon
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>>4493457
Nikon and Canon have been pretty much on par with each other for decades. Different individual qualities overtaking each other at different points or different product values giving rise to individual models' popularity. Pretty much any Nikon or Canon DSLR for a given price-point is roughly similar, except Canon's AF is magic, and Nikon's ergos and functionality win out over lower-tier Canons. At mid-level price bracket they're all about the same, and at the high end I'd give Canon the edge for value but that's likely my bias speaking. SLRs and MILCs are different.
In the SLR category I'd go Canon every. single. time. just thanks to the fact that EF lenses are interchangable between SLRs and DSLRs with 100% functionality. Nikon still has attractive SLRs but I believe the value of one lens working between a DSLR and an SLR (and a MILC because canon EF lenses adapt flawlessly to RF) is an unbeatable proposition. If I was buying a pre-electronic SLR I'd go Nikon.
MILCs are a bit all over the fucking place and I'd unironically say Nikon might be better because they don't cripplehammer their low-mid stuff as much. Early mirrorless sucks all over the board for different reasons between the brands, but we're now at a point where MILCs have matured enough to be pretty even once more like the DSLR days.
Keep in mind I'm a massive Canon shill, so despite trying to keep things fair I'd rather a Nikon shill anon to appear and counter-argument me so you get a more balanced comparison.
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>>4493146
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How do I make my camera prefer increasing my flash's power rather than cranking up ISO? I still want a range of auto-ISO in case full power doesn't cover it, but I don't want ISO 1600 if 400 and more flash would get the same exposure.
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>>4493815
IIRC if you change the ETTL-II settings (for Canon but check your camera regardless) there's one called flash priority instead of eval or face eval or whatever that should prioritise sending a bigger flash. The other two try and strike a balance between background light and subject but flash priority should do what you're asking for.
Could also set up a C mode with the auto ISO settings to be a narrower band if you'd still rather a balanced background exposure
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>>4493970
>Leica
>4/3rds
>$1800 used
Leciafags are mental.
Get a Ricoh GR.
Literally any edition. I and II have a pop up flash but no IBIS, III and IV have IBIS, no flash. The older the cheaper. All are good.
>compact
The only literally pocketable good camera.
>impossible to fuck up
Good ergonomics, nice menus, etc. Just don't take it out in the rain or in the middle of a dust storm.
>easy to use
Yes.
>convenient to travel with
Yes.
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I've been looking at bridge cameras, specifically the Sony RX10 iv. I want something for hiking/wildlife photography, as making my own calendars sounds like fun. My wife also wants to shoot some photography as we travel, and fucking with lenses im the field sounds like even more of a bummer to her than it does to me. We have an older Canon Rebel that I rarely bother taking along.
Anyway, the RX10 iv is discontinued and hard to find for less than $2k -- more than it's asking price the 7+ years ago when it came out -- and I figure there's gotta be a better way to go for image quality with a similar ease of use at that price point.
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Would this be good for a home and travel video camera?
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>>4494407
Why in gods name would you go through the effort to buy a compact aps-c video camera and slap a bazooka L prime on it? Get the body sure, but just grab the PZ lens it pairs with or at most the RF 35mm f/1.8 STM for like half the price and weight.
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>>4494553
Not that I'm aware of. All mirrorless mounts have a shorter flange distance than their DSLR counterparts.
The reason this is important is to get a correct image projection onto your sensor, the distance between the sensor and rear element needs to be a precise value (say Canon EF: 44mm). Since DSLRs had a huge gap to facilitate the mirror box, adapters simply add the missing distance that the mirrorless bodies could do away with (and add electronic connectors sometimes).
The reverse is impossible since mirrorless lenses are designed with the shorter distance between the lens element and sensor (Canon RF: 20mm). Even if you custom swapped an RF mount to an EF body for a direct mount, the mirrorless lens would still be too far away from the sensor.
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>>4494555
>The reverse is impossible since mirrorless lenses are designed with the shorter distance between the lens element and sensor (Canon RF: 20mm). Even if you custom swapped an RF mount to an EF body for a direct mount, the mirrorless lens would still be too far away from the sensor.
Would a custom RF-to-EF mount just look like one of those rear mount macro adaptors or something?
Is it actually impossible to make it look (kinda) similar to the original? Would some kinda teleconverter style thing with a very mild zoom work?
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Once you shoot pornography, you become "blacklisted" in the community? A friend wants to shoot boudoir/fetish photos and I don't know if I should accept if there's a stigma around that stuff. She wants stuff like macro shots of her twat and asshole, for example.
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I have no idea about photography. Is it a good idea to get my phone pictures printed if I choose a small size? Will the quality be t least as good as the old disposable cameras? I really want to age a collection again like the good olden days :(
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>>4494597
If you're comparing 28mm focal length picture small printouts from a modern phone with even high grade mirrorless cameras, you will barely be able to tell the difference.
I regularly print for small frames to hang in my home or for friends who want to do the same, and I've lost count of how many times people have complimented the pictures taken with a phone while completely ignoring those that were taken with a $3k mirror less camera.
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>like to shoot landscapes
>like to shoot portraits
I have a 15-35 f2.8 and am debating a 135 f1.8. Do you think I'll miss much of the inbetween range just having the two lenses?
I had a 70-200 and pretty much always kept it locked at 200mm. I also had a 50 and after a year of no use, I sold it.
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>>4494605
Having to cover every milimeter of focal range is not necessary. Anything between 35-80mm is relatively "normal" and I chose to skip it. Doing landscapes and portraits I think you would do well to skip it as well. The only thing I could think that middle focal distance might come in handy for is group portraiture, but I'd go 70mm with your 70-200 for that when you can step back, and 35mm on your UWA when you can't.
>I had a 70-200
Why'd you sell it? And why go for a 135mm lens if you admitted you had that pinned to 200mm the whole time? Zooms are always going to be easier to compose with for their versatility, but I understand for maximum bokbokbokeh the prime makes more sense. 135mm lenses are normally the creme da la creme for portraits.
I also do a lot of landscape and enough portraits that I'm probably pretty similar to you in regards to gear needs.
75% of my photography is made with either my 16-35mm f/4 or 70-200mm f/4. A godly pair.
Fwiw, the remaining 15% are my travel snapshits with my 24-105mm which I don't particularly like using but is far smaller than my main gear. 10% is my macro with my 100mm prime, and the last 5% is my sportstography using a 100-400mm. If you don't do any of that extra shit then you're golden.
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>>4494608
The 70-200 was f4 and I felt it restricted me to a certain time of day and difficult to use indoors unless I had a light setup. Big and cumbersome, a 135 (or a 200 prime) is smaller, lighter, and will give me more light.
I would say 80% of my time is with the 15-35, it covers group shots, architecture, landscapes. I have an 85 f1.4 and I use it for portraits but extra reach would be great.
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>>4494616
With all that taken into account I'd get the 135mm.
You didn't say what mount it's for but if applicable I'd get the 135mm and a 1.4x converter so you basically have a 190mm f/2.8 as well. It won't be as strong optically as a true 200mm f/2.8 but that way you've got both options available.
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>>4494408
If you can't make good images on that hardware you have no need for anything better.
I did this on an IR-converted D200. git gud scrub
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>>4494603
Wow that's got to hurt a bit haha. Why use your phone if you have such a camera anyway. How small are we talking, smaller than the standard size you'd get developed from a shop?
Also should I go with regular or the classic shiny finish?
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>>4494605
I would miss the in-between range, 90% of my shooting is 24mm to 75mm, and I only go beyond when I can't get close enough or actually need wider
Just depends how you like to shoot, I find going too wide or too telephoto extremely boring
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>>4494621
Try to find an edge of a cloud and make that as in focus as possible
You can make panoramas with anything, why do you think clouds would be an issue?
>>4494570
whole site was down for a few weeks last year, exif and stuff was omitted probably as a safety concern going forward
>>4494628
>I should learn to make videos taken at night look less shitty
If you can identify what "look less shitty" means, then there are obvious areas for improvement. Is it too noisy? Colors too bad? Too dark? etc. It's like saying this car drives bad, but not elaborating with any actual point of substance.
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>>4494630
>why do you think clouds would be an issue?
I mostly use automatic stitching in Lightroom or manual control points in AutoPano and I've had issues with softer objects throwing things off and resulting in unfixable ghosting. I guess manual stitching in Photoshop would let me do this by myself, but it also seems like having some general principles to follow would be helpful.
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>>4494626
5″x7″ or 8"x10″ max. At those dimensions everything is so compressed that it's very hard for anyone to notice any differences. Anything larger than that however and you will in fact start to notice some differences in my experience.
But over the years I've actually come to the realization that shooting with my phone gives me a greater sense of confidence and I get closer to the action, which I think leads to more engaging pictures.
About the finishes, I prefer more mat appearances.
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>>4494634
I'm assuming 5x7 is the best then, I'll go with that.
Why do you feel more confident with your phone? I'd feel much better in public with a camera. I actually feel dumb pointing my phone at stuff like some social media addict
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>>4494637
A large camera, even something on the small side like a point and shoot can make you stand out, and at least for me, it makes me feel like I need to rush. Also subjects often notice it right away and change their behavior which sucks.
Phones are far more discrete and easier to handle.
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>>4494627
Yo same phone. Didnt think it was even remotely popular. A shame the 3a got a much better camera setup with the telephoto lens.
>>4494651
That RF lens is killer if a bit expensive. It doesn't take extenders but it's so hyper sharp that you could just crop a high res image and it'd be just as good.
Most people go with the EF 135mm f/2 because of how cheap and effective it is, but doesn't have IS.
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>>4494709
It's definitely not common, I've never seen it heard of anyone who owns one. I'm seeing adverts around London for the new one though which was crazy to see, it may be popular soon. I haven't even looked at it at all, I never look at better versions of anything I have, nothing good can come if it. Ignorance is bliss hah. Telephoto lense, sounds. Nice and fancy, I guess powerful zoom or something.
What are your experiences with printing? If any
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apparently nigger jannies are out in full force today, so i'll ask here instead
what are some good digital camera options for less than $250?
i already have some f mount lenses so i'd very much prefer to be able to use those
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>>4494820
newest nikon dslr you can afford
probably gonna be something like a d5300 or d7200 maybe a d610
>>4494639
try a fast prime like a 50mm f1.4 or similar. your 18-250 is probably f4.5 aperture at best, the larger aperture = more light hitting the sensor = less iso and grain
also a led video light
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I know the saying is that you can shoot 1/lens size as a shutter speed but does that keep going the whole way down? Ie can I expect ok shots handheld at 1/30 using a 28mm?
I just got a 28mm for my film camera so it will take me a couple weeks to test it
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>>4494884
A singular snapshit is never art. That's just like saying the sunset is art because it's often pretty. Maybe they are raw material for someone's art, but art pieces are made with intention, context, message and technique.
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>>4495105
Probably everyone here has had a situation where the natural light was good and you pretty much by accident take a good photo where the subject happens to make an attractive pose, and the camera's settings were suitable for the occasion.
Yes, I'd argue the final result can be the same. You can even lie that the photo was good because you're a good photographer.
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>>4494625
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I followed a anons advice and found a company that does print my photos. They're almost £4 for small prints! I'm sure we used to get them don't for probably £5 a pack, I'm not too sure because my parents obviously paid every time, but I'm pretty sure we weren't paying £80 for holiday snaps. I don't know what is going on
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>>4495235
FOUR POUNDS FOR A FUCKING 6X4 KEKEKEKEK.
Holy shit even in my backwards New Delhi (formerly Melborune) you get 6x4s for like 0.15c/ea.
Oh god it just dawned on me you might even mean 4 pounds each which I sure as hell hope not but also could be interpreted that way.
>>4495141
Not allowed on /p/
If you're not being paid for consistent bangers on a daily basis you will fail to meet acceptable criteria for the roaming retard brigade.
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>>4494884
For me, snapshots any shooting that isn't "deliberately planned". Not just planned by bringing a camera and expecting to take pictures, but planned by having specific shots I am trying to get. Kind of goes back to the "taking" vs "making" of a photography.
If I bring my camera, and tripod to the beach to take some sunset or astro shots for an hour, I'm not snapshotting. If I just bring a camera for a walk on a beach, and shooting when relevant, that's snapshot.
If I bring my lighting kit, and set up for studio type shooting, I'm not snapshotting. If I'm in a studio and sneaking some candid bts shots, those are snaps.
If I I'm shooting a wedding, there's probably some mix of snapshots and non-snapshots.
If I bring my camera with me while walking the dog, those are snapshots.
If I bring my camera with me for a night out with friends, those are snapshots.
If I bring my camera with me to walk around downtown and take some street photos, those are snapshots. If I camp in the right area for long enough, waiting for just the right time, it might no longer be a simple snapshot.
Snapshots and art are totally independent. Snapshots can be artistic, and you should generally at least try to be artistic with all the shooting you do, but snapshots are often more about documenting / capturing what is happening, often giving way to more artistic options.
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>>4494884
It ranges from “i dont like this” to “it doesnt do well on my objective measures of art scorecard”
Essentially, it's meaningless. Ignore anyone who uses the term. Photos look good and mean something or they don’t and what matters is if you give a shit about to whom they do. Art is not objective. Neuroaesthetics are and are another area of study that has more to do with manipulating people and modulating brain development. The art world, its art education and all art study these days is completely worthless and bears more resemblance to a completely made up esoteric tradition than anything. It’s full of people who aren’t very smart but have their verbal IQ 0.5SD ahead of their other metrics. How can you study, know, about something that is personal? It’s an esoteric tradition that inducts new members, not an academic institution of true knowledge. Ignore anyone who defines or rates “art” like you would ignore anyone talking about karmic ripples, vibrational states, saints, and church fathers.
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>>4495678
Don’t go out. Make a series about your descent. Self-portraits in the bathroom mirror, still-lifes of struggle meals, landscapes of the mountains of dirty laundry. Exalt your suffering. Learn to worship at the altar of your own misery. That’s art, baby.
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I actually have a Canon 500D and someone here told me to buy a 5D-MarkII to go next level. What's the max capacity of the SD card with this one ? Canon's site doesn't indicate it.
I bought a 128gb SD Card without checking and my D500 doesn't take it. What kind of device takes it ? A camera ?
And finally, is there a way to automatically choose the best picture between two taken in serie ? Like two similar pictures, one is more blurry, will the wheight indicate which one is defined (you moved less) ? I have the feeling the heavier it is the better it is, but I'm not sure.
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What the fuck is that clownshow that is the moderation on this board? Picrelated
https://archived.moe/p/thread/4495575/
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I'm a complete beginner with a hand-me-down nikon D40, i bought a nikkor 50mm f1.8G for cheap but i wanted to get another lens when i'm out riding my motorcycle and want to capture a lot of the nice scenic views i find traveling and stop having to switch back to the kit-lens.
Is there any good "wider" lens that is easy to find for cheap (100/150€) i should be looking for? i was thinking another prime because i need very bright ones to compensate for the bad iso of such an old body but i wouldn't mind something that can has a bit of range as sometimes i'm just sitting at the side of the road and might not be able to move to frame it better.
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>>4496043
i tried making a thread asking for help buying a new camera, using (what i believe to be) a pretty good picture that i took myself
i figured with all the other shit low effort and inherently non conversational threads already in the catalog that it would be fine, but some tranny deleted it within seconds
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>>4495102
>can I expect ok shots handheld at 1/30 using a 28mm
Depends on how steady you are. I can take 1/15th @28mm pretty easily free standing and slower if I'm crouching or leaning against something. If you have an older camera with a lot of mirror vibration like a Nikon F or FM or something it might limit this. Stick to 1/30 as your slowest 'safe' speed for now but mess around with it and see what you can get away with.
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>>4495751
Thanks for your answer. I heard a microSD with an adapter can fuck up during a video recording (I experienced that) so I will directly buy a CF card then. It seems adapters are just not reliable.
Someone, for my other questions ?
>I bought a 128gb SD Card without checking and my D500 doesn't take it. What kind of device takes it ? A movie camera ?
>And finally, is there a way to automatically choose the best picture between two taken in busrts? I have the feeling the heavier it is the better it is, but I'm not sure.
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I have small a red dot, always at the same place. It comes from the lens, right? Is it dust? Can I remove it? The lens is a 50mm Sigma EX.
On my part I would advise to never buy this piece of shit, but I could be wrong, I'm a novice. 2 days ago I tried to put the autofocus on the clouds, beautiful red/orange colors, amazed, I took the photos just to check later that everything was blurry and fucked up. Shit is not even able to autofocus on the fucking clouds. Shows you the red square to confirm it's on the spot but it isn't. So now I just go manually like I always did before. Maybe my lens is old and damaged and that's why it's total garbage and it was fine when it was brand mew, but in the actual state, I will never trust its autofocus again.
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>>4496167
It's probably a pixel on your sensor. Try your cameras hot pixel remapping feature it available.
Clouds can be tricky, because most AF systems are looking for some contrast in the scene and clouds can be quite uniform. Trying using single point AF and put that point on a cloud edge instead.
Most camera AF points are red, then green when focus is confirmed.
Learn how to use your camera and stop blaming the gear. If you have AF issues, that's almost entirely on the camera side of things, not lens.
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>>4496166
>I bought a 128gb SD Card without checking and my D500 doesn't take it. What kind of device takes it ? A movie camera ?
D500 takes CFExpress cards. SD cards go into any modern camera since about 2008 except some select (read: random) models or high end cameras that needed the extra transfer speed. There are also cameras which are usually your point and shoots that take microSD but adapting that to SD is painless.
>And finally, is there a way to automatically choose the best picture between two taken in busrts? I have the feeling the heavier it is the better it is, but I'm not sure.
Nope. You're basically asking the camera to choose what's "best" which is arbitrary. Best could be what has the most in focus, or it might be the least motion blurred, or maybe you intentionally wanted everything slightly out of focus (lots of bokeh lights at night for example). Maybe in a few years when AI in injected into everything.
>>4496167
>small red dot
Sounds like a stuck/hot pixel on the sensor. Normal for basically every camera but the NR usually cleans them up. You can do a few tests to work out what it is. No reason for dust to appear as red, and certainly not as an obvious speck. Dust on lenses are normally invisible to the sensor unless it's on a rear element and you're focused at MFD. More likely to be dust on the sensor than the lens.
>Stuck Pixel
Can be red, purple, green, whatever. Normally you can map them out with a camera function or "Sensor Cleaning". Will always be present no matter what.
>Hot Pixel
Only shows up after the sensor gets warm. If you leave the camera for a few hours and your first photo after powering it on has it, then it isn't a hot pixel. If you take a long exposure it should show up.
>Lens Defect
To completely rule it out you should swap to a different lens.
Honestly though, just post a photo with it in it and we can tell you
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Guys, I have a Canon R50 that uses the new .cr3 RAW format, but Windows Explorer can't make thumbnail of them. The RAW extension by Microsoft didn't help a bit. Is there any codec pack that can preview thumbnails under Explorer? It used to work with something back then, but I had to reinstall my PC and I'm suffering with it.
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>>4496181
Maybe, but the real answer is to not use explorer for browsing images.
You should be browsing your RAWs in a RAW processor, or at the very least a program like Irfanview. There's 0 reason to browse individual RAW files in explorer.
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>>4496183
>Also if I open an image from there, I can't rotate them and stuff, so it's just annoying.
Which is why you should just be browsing your RAW's in RAW program. You're creating a problem and looking for a solution.
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>>4496185
It's more convenient to have one RAW file instead of having a RAW + JPEG. Back then I saw the CR3 thumbnail, so navigation and searching was super fast. Now I open Irfan Thumbnails, takes ages to build up database, can't rotate from there, total bullshit. Should have went with a non-Canon camera instead.
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>>4496186
>It's more convenient to have one RAW file instead of having a RAW + JPEG
What does that have to do with anything? Doesn't change anything I've said.
If you just browse with a RAW program, you can see everything you need and make adjustments as needed.
>Should have went with a non-Canon camera instead.
Same issue can and does happen with other models from other brands. Why not fix your workflow instead of blaming the gear? Why are you adding extra steps that are causing you issues?
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>>4496189
Like overnight if you have a bad computer. Closest I've done is about half that, but it only took a few hours to build previews.
You shouldn't have that many in one folder to begin with either, or need to browse that many at one time, so fixing your workflow by being better organized will help with that too.
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Where besides here can I get actual critiques of my photos?
Normally I would just post here but the problem is a lot of it is portrait work and I obviously can't let it get out that I am a 4channer.
I've tried some photography discords but I either get 0 critiques or in 1 case someone gave me good feedback and was immediately banned by the mods for being "mean".
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I need software for organizing my RAWs and JPGs to sort them by quality
To be specific, I need a program I can use to browse through the images in a folder, and then mark images as like one star, 2 two stars, three stars etc, and then move all the images with that mark to a different folder
Critically, I need it to automatically associate the RAWs and JPGs together, so I can just mark the RAW with the star and if I move it it also moves the JPG
I know for a fact software that does exactly this exists because I found it once, but then I forgot what it was called.
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>>4496189
>has 29,000 RAWs in a single workflow folder
What the fuck anon. Archive that shit and use a proper working folder that you put in-progress projects in. You should be inpsecting and culling off a seperate drive anyway.
>>4496266
This place isn't even good for critisism imo. I thought that at one point but either nobody engages with constructive honesty, or you get ignored outright. You could make a thread for your own stuff and still most comments will be "this is shit" or "this is nice" and that's it. The few threads I've seen over the last few years with genuine input, they resulted in the OP being a faggot and arguing with anyone who was trying to help.
Iirc there was a few missed focus shots in a certain thread and it was literally like 40 back and forths as OP tried to defend himself. It's just one example of an endless string of shitflinging instead of useful information.
As for your actual problem, nowhere, sadly. The fact that account-based platforms are the norm and ratings and muh reddit updoots are on the line, the worst you'll get are lukewarm takes or maybe the odd harsh critisism that still doesn't talk you down as far as you should be if you fucked something up big time. That's why I came to /p/ in the first place, but it's such a small number of anons engaging that you're still not going to get the amount of impartial honesty that you want.
>>4496271
>inb4 muh loonix
Digikam. Unironically decent organisation software. Uses your system folder explorer in their own UI. Can sort by a whole range of tags or ratings (that you need to tag). Can do batch file movements, ratings, etc.
>Critically, I need it to automatically associate the RAWs and JPGs together,
I don't do it myself but I think I've seen people use group by filename or group by time to do exactly what you're asking.
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>>4496271
PhotoMechanic is the industry standard for culling
For organizing, you should just do that through basic folder organization
Or you can just do everything in a LR/C1
You fucked up organization at the start and now have to deal with the consequences
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>>4496282
>>4496201
Anyway, I just found out what was the problem. I'm using Win11 LTSC, so it doesn't have store, therefore no Photos app, that actually contains .cr3 codecs. I also installed the Microsoft RAW codec app, and turned off Icaros thumbnails for .cr3 files. It works now, thank you for your concern.
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>>4496458
I >>4496427 honest to god cant remember, I was downloading additions from the microsoft store like 3 years ago and I noticed one of them added that functionality.
I took a quick look and I think it's "Raw Image Extension"
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>>4496458
If you are on Home, then I assume you have Microsoft Store. You probably also have the Photos app installed by default, so you only need the Raw Image Extension, that you can download from the store. I use Icaros for thumbnails, but it seems to be buggy for .cr3 files, so I removed it from the list of extensions that get thumbnails created by Icaros, but if you don't have Icaros, then you should be good by now with the Photos app and RAW extension installed.
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For compact travel camera is it worth buying Ricoh GR or Sony RX100 M7? Or do I just buy a flagship phone with a good camera and forget about it? Most modern phones that are at least mid market have good IP rating but afaik those cameras are toast under any real rough weather. Why can't these retards make something meant for travel/outdoor use somewhat weatherproof? My experience with cameras has been a really old Canon 20d. That thing is a nigh indestructible brick and I can take good photos with it but it's too heavy to be carrying out while I'm getting drunk in SEA and doing touristy shit.
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>>4496765
They are hated *because* they're terrible, which in turn attracts only terrible people as fans.
As for why they're terrible, it's because rather than having them make nice things their design philosophy requires them to "create new standards" which apparently means "make the ui as ugly and unintuitive as possible and throw in the loudest shutter you can find".
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>>4496765
sony is great for video but kinda ass for pictures imo. Sterile colors, weird menus, flat body design which is hard to grip
Not that it matters much, a ton of pro photographers use sony, so you can probably get used to them
Main reason to hate sony is the fanboys sound like faggots. They truly believe they're superior
Also, half their fucking camera lineup has the same name (a7v, a7iv) which is retarded
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Unless you have crazy dynamic range available and dedicated lighting, if your lens can’t go beyond 3.5 stops, night photography isn’t really doable right?
3.5 stop lenses in general are for day time photography if you’re just working with natural light, is that right?
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>>4496765
>Why (lie)?
Its a forced meme on /p/. Touch grass. Sony cameras are popular outside of this 12 user shithole where one person can make it look like there’s a consensus but there’s not.
Now cope
>p-popular doesnt mean good!
The opinions of 4chan users - typically failures - are so worthless that popularity is an objectively better metric. Especially when tools are concerned.
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>>4496877
This. Sony hate is literally just /p/ and some other irrelevant comment sections where literally every camera is called the worst ever. There are neckbeards who live here and just complain and lie about their least favorite camera brand all day while chad buys one, shoots, and gets laid and paid. Right now it’s the lifeless loser that hates sony so bad he’ll sit on 4chan all day replying to himself about how much he hates it and how bad it is in his mind.
Last year it was some lifeless fag literally lying about all full frame cameras period being unusably heavy and having worse iq than his m4turds, every single day. Then he stopped because he became homeless.
The year before that there was a dedicated anti-canon shill. And there was an anti-digital shill repeatedly claiming that film was 100mp in every thread and replying to himself to make it look like anyone cared, and another going off about d850 flickr groups. When these people eventually leave it becomes obvious how little anyone cared and that it was always just one guy.
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>>4496880
Do you remember the “fuji just doesnt make good cameras” schizo? The dognigger snapshitter that never shut up about nikons autofocus? The DSLR shilling, like cANON stopped using his trip? One week it looks like /p/ hates the thing, then eventually the retarded child leaves and it all just stops. Its a sad thought, a lot of people ended up buying a camera they didnt like because they thought these autistic and dishonest anonymous samefags were multiple truthful people.
Its even sadder to think that some of the autistic children could take years to leave.
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>>4496138
>ITS DA JOOZ!
https://archive.palanq.win/p/thread/4472265/#4473759
https://archive.palanq.win/p/thread/4468045/#4468553
https://archive.palanq.win/p/thread/4458547/#4467960
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is there a way to get like... camera profile settings in darktable? I don't know what the proper name for it would be
if I open a RAW file in darktable, it obviously looks like shit because they want me to dial in all the settings myself from the ground up
I can do that with some difficulty(I suck at photo editing and darktable is way too convoluted for my needs) but it's annoying and time consuming
after some googling I found a solution to open the raw image in sony imaging edge(I have a sony camera) which applies a pretty good profile that maybe needs a bit of white balance tweaking at most, then export it as tiff, and finish the editing of the tiff file in darktable
is there a way to apply that profile directly in darktable instead?
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>>4496912
>tells people dont buy a snoy, anything but a snoy
>then says snoy makes the best cameras
>in more serious discussion recommends snoy over an objectively superior camera
>recommends a dlsr and says mirrorless bad
>says fuji is shit and posts a photo taken with a fuji that looks fine
What a fucking faggot. Non-stop dishonesty. Zero fully serious posts.
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>>4496917
The sony a7c is a decent camera for less than $900, but saying its better than the zf and the d750 is more worth it than the zf is assinine. By the same logic EFCS only doesnt matter, the ZR can be better than the a7c too because 1/60th sync speeds were fine for thousands of film photographers for decades, every mirrorless has an anti-flicker setting, and nikon just makes better cameras than sony which is why everyone sane stops talking about buying a sony if its more expensive than an a7iii and they’re not just using 3rd party primes.
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>>4496854
>>4496932
most cameras made after circa 2015 should be good enough up to 6400 iso. even with f/4 lens this is plenty to work with while keeping reasonable shutter speed handheld.
if you shoot cityscapes and the lens/camera has image stabilisation, you have steady hands and your subject is not mobile you can get clear images perhaps up to 1/4 second. for landscapes it's most likely worth getting a a tripod for long exposures.
if you shoot people and circumstances allow it, get yourself a flash. if there's so little light you are struggling with underexposure on digital, the light is usually shit and the photos will not look flattering anyways
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cob lights, panel lights, or strobes for studio product photography?
I am currently using a single flash and I am NOT enjoying the experience, I have to buy another + some more modifiers or switch to constant lighting which I'm strongly considering.
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>>4496943
TT350 for a compact speedlite. GN is kind of ass but it just barely falls under what I'd call compact.
IM30 for a smaller box flash but no swivel and lower GN.
>>4497072
Most if not all montior designed with photo and video editing as their main purpose are 10-bit. If you're going to do it seriously or for paid work then it's a relatively moderately priced expense for what you're guaranteeing yourself in terms of accuracy. For casual editing I wouldn't bother, and just make sure to get a monitor with reasonable sRGB gamut accuracy and to properly calibrate your monitor.
>>4497074
Strobes are standard. Big, powerful, expensive strobes for that matter.
You and I are better served with more modest units. Just make sure you have big enough diffusers, umbrellas, bounce it even. One flash for studio work is a bit fucked. Best off with at least two but three would be ideal just to get some backlighting or underlighting.
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>>4497078
>For casual editing I wouldn't bother, and just make sure to get a monitor with reasonable sRGB gamut accuracy and to properly calibrate your monitor
Alright thanks.
>>4497079
It's for editing raws, but I figured that since the primary output is jpg files, there's not much use if the monitor can display more colors than the output format can handle anyway
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what camera would this be shot on? I've seen these like early/late 2000s and it has a certain look to the skin. there are distinct artifacts like the blue in the eyes.
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>>4497208
I don't know how you would even determine that unless you're some kind of 00's camera autist, but back then, Canon Rebel's were the go-to entry level cameras for snapshits. The shitty flash it came with resulted in pictures just like that.
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Is there any way of manually setting (not resetting) the series counter on Sony cameras? I upgraded and I'd like it if my filenames continued from where I left off rather than starting from 1 again
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>>4497525
I may be mistaken and getting it mixed up with other cameras I have but does it not just do the last file number +1? So if you take one photo and then open that on your computer and rename it to the number you'd like to start from it would then carry on from there.
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>>4497656
AI gens use a data bank of existing things to draw information from and create your request. So if you ask it to draw a hotdog, it has a mostly vetted repertoire of images it knows contains a hotdog and can combine / guess an idea of what you want. AI gens are also not very accurate in that smaller details are harder to control.
Upscaling and NR are similar in their issues but for different reasons, and it's fundementally because the data isn't there.
It doesn't have a similar enough, sharper version of your photo on hand to reference, and instead it has to look at patterns it already understands, and cross-check your photo against these similar photos ALL without inventing fake details or inserting wrong elements.
If the noise is unfortunate enough to follow along a pattern of an object or element in the photo closely enough it will be mistaken for what you want preserved or sharpened. If an object is natrually soft or hazy (such as frosted glass) you run the risk of it both mistaking the pattern for noise, or "enhancing" the texture with unwanted sharpening, or worst of all, both.
All that said, the main issue is that current AI is not exactly "intelligence" and more like an advanced auto-complete bot with massive computational resources behind it. It's Clippy from MS Word with more power.
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any of you use one of those things with a dedicated calibration plugin?
is it useful? and do they even make those plugins for things that aren't Lightroom and other paid software?
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Whenever I get a new lens, I immediately put a B&W clear filter on it and never really take it off after that, unless I need to switch to a CPL filter, or whatever else.
Am I stupid?
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>>4497977
No. Good quality UV filters do not degrade image quality. Cheap ones will as I tested last year, but B&W is not a cheap piece of shit so you're fine. Every time you clean a front element (or filter) you run the risk of abrasive damage, so I'd much rather the risk sit on my $50 UV filter and not my $800 lens element.
Two points to mention (because I do the same thing and found a few issues)
1) Newtons rings will create a kind of grainy circular pattern with long exposures which is most prominent doing astro, but can also appear in daylight long exposures. Caused by the glass of the filter not sitting exactly 100% parallel with the camera sensor.
2) Stacking other specialty filters can begin to degrade contrast faster than removing the UV and slapping your CPL/ND/GND/BD/etc. filter, AND you run the risk of overtightening. Buy a filter wrench.
I've actually not used B&W because there's an aussie filter manufacturer I'm fond of. They use a bit of magnesium in their metal alloy and it helps prevents cross threading and overtightening in a way the cheap shit ones don't.
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>>4498076
Buy basically any modern camera. Even fuji has moire, but on dot patterns instead of grid patterns, in addition to mushy colored details. You now need 61 to 100mp to avoid moire, worms, and maze patterns IRL. THIS is why they ditched olpfs. To make to go upmarket.
If you want 0 moire shoot a DSLR
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>>4497980
I have a small air blower/hand pump thingy to clean the surface of my lens/filter. If I need to use some kind of solution to do it, what do you recommend?
Normally I just use a moist microfiber towel but is there anything else I should be using?
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>>4498128
You shouldn't need to use a solution except in the worst of circumstances. Fingerprints and dust come off easily with a proper cloth, and anything more should be treated with the mildest dish soap with a very weak dilution. Don't use lime or lemon soap either as citrus acids degrade coatings. Don't put anything on a lens element that isn't specifically designed for it. Don't use LCD screen cleaner, or glasses cleaner... nothing. The dish soap is the one exception but even then it's like one drop of soap to 100ml of water.
The routine I recommend:
>Always start with the blower. Dust and fine particles are abrasive even if only a little, and a blower is incapable of causing scratches or abrasions.
>If glass only lightly or moderately dirty, use microfibre cloth.
>If glass is moderately to heavily filthy, use camera specific lens wipes. I use the Zeiss ones. You can use the microfibre cloth to make sure the element is 100% dry.
>If glass is has oils, grease, or heavy grime on it, use diluted dish soap with a microfibre cloth.
Can you just wipe shit off instead of going through the whole routine? Yeah. And for cheap gear it's not a big deal. But I have lenses worth thousands of dollars each and taking an extra 20 seconds to do it right is worth it for me.
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I know fuck all about photography. I went on a trip and took a bunch of photos with my basic bitch phone. They all look like shit. The only photos I could print were those taken by my friend with an expensive phone (Samsung s25). I want nice photos from my next vacation. Should I buy a phone like this, or a real camera? My quick YouTube research points me toward hunting for a used Sony a6000 or a new a6100. Are there better options? I can afford any of these, but I don't want to spend too much on something that's just an expensive toy.
Picrel - picture from my phone.
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>>4498321
I had the same exact experience, my coworker (that I’m having sex with secretly) and I went an oversea’s trip for a conference and her S25 made my Google Pixel phone images look like garbage.
I would personally switch to that, and I am in fact planning on doing so when I upgrade.
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> ukraine, mid war
> sick of sitting at home, lets make some pictures
> can walk outside only at night, sneaking around patrols which take men by force, for you know what
> have little experience with d3300 and zoom-zoom kit lens while I was in office
35mm f2 is a great lens to start learning from? want to make some landscape and maybe not so close portraits in surroundings
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Total newb to photography here.
I have some family photos from old CD's that got coruppted and they look pretty cool so I want to develop them. I don't own a photo printer. How should I ask a local photo shop to develop them? Is there any risk to their equipment?
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>>4498386
As much as we might like ur photos, I wouldnt risk it anon. …but then im a big pussy, i joined the air force where we just fling high explosives around for lulz bc even though we were fully designed around the inevitable nuclear war with Russia, our political leaders are spineless so we just blow up broke ass arabs out in the styx. Still, the opportunity to kill the russian scourge is too tempting to pass up, & think of the pics you’ll get!
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>>4498792
Same thing everyone ends up discovering eventually anon. When jerking off gets boring, try it with different items inserted in your anus. & don’t worry, there’s an entire medical position that exists just to remove them when you get too carried away.
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Will 12mm extension ring work for 24mm lens (Nikon F) or will the focus be inside the lens? Some calculators suggest that 12mm is too much but some of the variables going into that calculation aren't very clear.
I could go the other route and get a close up filter, but that doesn't work too well for wide lenses.
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>>4498792
Change exposure compensation! You have to do tests to see how your camera performs, it is not the same for all cameras. Some give a good exposure with +0.3 and some with -0.3, the only way to find out is through a thorough testing regime.
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Uuuuh I shot a couple of timelapses, all using the same camera settings, but as it turned out some of the frames ended up with different levels, how do I fix this and prevent this from happening in the future? I'm relatively new to both photography and editing.
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>>4499160
>Is it true that DSLR cameras are more battery efficient?
Yes. About a 2-3x delta over MILCs.
>Does running a second high res, high fps screen really drain that much battery?
Yes.
>>4499125
CPLs are genuinely useful but rob you of 1+1/3rd - 2 stops of light which means they're not really "all purpose" filters like a UV is. In good conditions with ample light I normally use one.
NDs are good for video (because you can't use shutter speed to reduce light), and for intentionally wanting motion blur (like water, lights, etc.).
The rest are even more specific-use case, and if you don't actively need one then don't bother.
Buy a $30 CPL and try it out, it's quite good with anything that has reflections. That includes landscape, das Auto, windows, water... generally nice to have on hand.
>>4499179
>ome of the frames ended up with different levels
As in, they're not the same framing as the others? Was there wind? Are you using some pos aliexpress tripod? Did you knock it?
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>>4493120
> It's 2022
> Have a Canon 5Dmk4 at 2x the exposures it's rated for
> tell myself: use it until it breaks before upgrading
> fast forward 2026, fucking 4 years later
> 5x the exposures it's rated for
> still not broken
when will this thing fucking break I want to upgrade
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Funny el jannoid didnt bother acting in the r6ii thread until the bucket crab got rectumrekt
To r6ii fag
rf 35mm f1.8
rf 85mm f2
all u need
the rf 50mm f1.8 is just the dslr one, dont buy unless you like 50mm
Everything else or bokeh centric is kinda big and special purpose anyways, so just buy ef lenses like the ef 16-35 f4, the ef 100-400, 24-70, ef 100mm macro, etc, most sigma ef lenses work too but check first
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I have a hand-me-down Sony H1
It doesn't function as a webcam by default
I don't seem to be able to find any custom firmware
Is there any hope in forcing an old camera into webcam functions?
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>>4499180
>>Is it true that DSLR cameras are more battery efficient?
>Yes. About a 2-3x delta over MILCs.
>>Does running a second high res, high fps screen really drain that much battery?
>Yes.
Are DSLRs still more energy efficient than mirrorrless if you are using the screen instead of viewfinder?
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>>4499251
Not really, potentially identical but also potentially worse. It depends if the DSLR flips the mirror down and back up to focus (not all of them have on sensor focus points). I was also going to mention the shutter because not all will be fully electronic, but then not all mirrorless are either so it's just better to compare like for like.
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>>4499194
I mean, you shot with A-mode, that's your mistake. You were 90% there, but this is the kind of mistake we all make we we first do a timelapse.
For me, it's forgetting to manually set the white balance, as I'm usually just using the auto WB.
For a timelapse, assuming you're not doing it during day/night transition, then you want everything on manual and set. Set the aperture, set the speed, set the ISO, set the WB. And I'm sure I'm forgetting something, but you get it.
Now if you're doing day/night transition, that will be another story, and can be nightmarish.
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>>4499251
No. If using the screen, like live for stills or just doing video, many mirrorless will actually have longer runtimes than manny DSLRs.
Most of the official battery ratings you see are essentially for screen on on duration. In practice, most mirrorless can easily shoot 500-1000 per battery.
If you compare battery runtime for video on DSLRs, that will give you a better idea.
Most DSLRs don't have USBC charging though, so being able to top off throughout the day helps with the lower stills life.
>>4499240
Best bet is probably just HDMI + capture card.