Thread #97605414
File: green_malexeptor_WIP_banner_white.jpg (852.6 KB)
852.6 KB JPG
Work in Progress, "Side of Bug" Edition
>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD
>WIP Tutorial Images Mega
https://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw
>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno
>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s
>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI
>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM
>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c
>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk
>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI
>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g
>Airbrush Priming and Thinning
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8
>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny
>Previous Threads:
>>97589522
>>97568566
>>97555454
386 RepliesView Thread
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>97605463
Well, instead of ten isopropanol molecules slamming into some tiny part of the paint you now have nine of them hitting that bit during the same time frame, plus five water molecules puttering by doing fuck all.
>>
>>97605635
now that we have an actual chemist in the thread how dangerous would you rate breathing in IPA fumes
do you recommend some breathing apparatus or is it just healthy evaporated alcohol making you little dizzy
>>
>>97605660
not dangerous at all? are you sticking your nose directly above the IPA? wtf are you doing amigo? a mask might not be a bad idea, but only to stop the splatter of acrylic paint from getting in your mouth/nose.
>>
>>
>>
File: 20260223_124809.jpg (553.5 KB)
553.5 KB JPG
Working on some Empire stuff.
>>
>>97605688
>>97605717
point being almost every single time i come across some tutorial that deals with using IPA for stripping or cleaning 3D prints there is a disclaimer telling me to take proper precautions like a high end filter mask
>>
>>
>>97605793
Seriously, go fuck yourself.
We've got an anon over in 3DPG who recently ran air quality tests while printing, both next to the machine and the next room over, with and without ventilation, and then ran the same tests while frying eggs in butter and frying fish in oil.
Frying fish in oil is many times more damaging to your health than 3d printing on the nightstand next to your bed while you sleep, you ever seen anyone wear a fucking rebreather for cooking fish?
>>
>>
>>
File: Vallejo_TMM_banner_V1.0_low.png (1.2 MB)
1.2 MB PNG
anyone has a link to the vallejos new metallic colors swatch?
>>
>>
>>
>>97605978
if you're a man you've been under a vehicle pulling wrenches at some point in your life, handling wd40, engine oil, grease, gasoline, diesel, etc... are all far more hazardous to your health by contact and inhalation then resin are.
If you haven't you're a pansy little pussy bitch and I can sort of understand why you're afraid.
Grow some fucking testicle hairs, and some testicles too while you're at it.
>>
>>
>>97605688
>Acetone, at the other hand...
...was sloshed around like water when I visited the polymer chemistry lab at my local university.
>>97605758
A mix of better-safe-than-sorry and arse covering.
>>97605840
And as was noted in that thread "VOC" is a huge group of chemicals that range from mostly harmless to literal nerve gasses. So just the VOC concentration alone won't tell you much about how dangerous something is if you don't know which VOCs it is you're talking about. It's kinda like a metallic compound detector that doesn’t bother to tell you if it's sodium chloride and haemoglobin it's detecting in your lunch, or arsenic trioxide and dimethylmercury.
>>97605992
>are all far more hazardous to your health by contact and inhalation then resin are.
Maybe they are. Maybe they aren’t. We don't know, and you sure as hell don't know.
>>
>>
File: 34234325456456.png (3.4 MB)
3.4 MB PNG
allright primed them, I just can not decide on a color sceme yet, thinking about yellow, or a reddish purple
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: 010257.jpg (556.4 KB)
556.4 KB JPG
reposting goth vampire elf.
I should really try and finish the real things I was trying to get done this month though.
>>
File: 545345435.png (2.4 MB)
2.4 MB PNG
>>97606189
I will prollyjust go for basic bitch rock/desert bases, like i did for my necrons
>>
>>
>>
>>97606257
I think the reason anon only paints busts is because they are a much larger scale than the standard miniatures here so he can hide behind scale to make himself look more skilled, the sad thing is he clearly isn't a bad painter, but the bust posting never gets constructive criticism feedback, he only ever gets ass-kissing praise, so that's what he's posting for or he would've expressed frustration at the lack of critique awhile ago.
So he's just attention seeking.
>>
>>97606238
>>97606257
Nta but I didn't see you faggots complaining about it in previous threads when anons were reposting so stop singling him out
>>
>>
>>
>>97606296
I don't live in the thread 24/7 so I'm not always around to call out a fag for being a fag.
I can see how that may be hard for you to understand though, given that you likely do (else you wouldn't be making this asinine statement).
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>97606421
None of it means anything.
TMM was originally meant as a style where you did shade the metallics, but it was co-opted immediately by everyone to just mean normal metallic paints. So I think Vallejo is trying to go with the original meaning, but the term these days just means using metallic paint to most people.
>>
>>97606421
Yes, but only because retards have applied the term incorrectly for years now.
TMM is applying the same thought process behind NMM and then using metallic paints, and often washes/glazes to do it. But that would be actual work, and they wanted to have a special word for slapping metallics + a wash on.The wash is not guaranteed.
>>
>>
>>97606527
>>97606466
but isn't the point of metal paints that they look like metal by themselves? like if you are painting a b-29 with airframe aluminum you're done after the one paint color because that's what it's supposed to do.
>>
its always funny reading through threads on 4chan that delve into personal safety.
someone will reccomend basic ppe, like a mask to stop you getting lightheaded or get paint in your mouth, and someone will call them worse than hitler and proclaim that its fine, and the repeated chemical exposure they put themselves through has had no issues, like suggesting basic "we dont know what these chemicals do long term, so maybe dont breath a lot of them" is some sort of personal offence.
personally i don't wear a mask while spray painting, since i do it outside, but i do wear a mask while handling uncured resin, because i hate the smell.
we had a guy at my flgs back in 2003 who woud literally get woozy from acrylic paint fumes, so he painted in a full respirator mask, we called him the toughness 1 guardsmen, and made sure to close up all the paints and kick on a fan before we all went to lunch, so the fumes would dissipate by the time we got back and he could game without it on.
>>
>>97606557
I suggest reading something on how light works. What you describe would look flat as fuck because there would be no shading.
This video explains it well
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kS6eNT_38gw&t
>>
>>
File: PXL_20260223_205939067.jpg (2.9 MB)
2.9 MB JPG
My knights, 3 more in the mail
>>
>>
>>
>>97606073
>was sloshed around like water when I visited the polymer chemistry lab at my local university.
My prof (from faculty of physics) back at uni was also pretty careless about acetone as cleaner but I was instructed by prof at faculty of chemistry to keep it under active ventilation and avoid breathing it in. I prefer that other opinion.
As for 3d resin printing, this shit does produce harmful fumes. I can still remember one guy who caused entire building at my institute to get evacuated after he accidentally dropped one bottle of this stuff to the floor. People reported nausea and headache while he insisted to occupational health and safety inspector that it's not a big deal and it's "completely harmless".
>>
It took me a long damn time to realize that my paints are shit. I've bought some art paints some time ago and just used them and I've just sat down to test them against very few cheapest brand model paints I have (initially I only planned on painting model kits desu). Now everything's clear, it really isn't supposed to be this hard to paint. Fuck my life. Here are the minis I've been working on recently.
>>
File: 1767207473718491.png (4.4 MB)
4.4 MB PNG
>>97606731
Forgot, obviously
>>
File: absentee father scroll of truth.jpg (1.4 MB)
1.4 MB JPG
>>97606559
im not the anon calling everyone who doesnt huff motor oil and like to get his hands dirty on a daily basis a little sissy faggot but he does have a point
people these days have become overly protective and afraid of pretty much everything, there is nothing wrong with basic common sense but there is a limit how low the bar should go until people become unable to do anything because they are afraid of everything
>>
>>
Speaking about acrylic paint smell, I keep all my paints in closed plastic containers and I noticed that while Citadel ones basically have no smell when I open the box, TTC have some odd, soap-like smell, AK only very slight one, new Vallejo little worse but manageable but old Vallejo alway, always produce awful, intense smell similar to banana each time I open their box. I simply find that odd.
>>
>>
>>97606745
I simply wish that people would avoid falling into one or another extremes. Like one of my chemistry teachers at uni that wouldn't bother to wear gloves to pick up even wet stuff ("I won't eat me, relax") but she always made sure to wash her hands properly after that.
>>
File: 432445546456.jpg (345 KB)
345 KB JPG
ye going with yellow, tried out the meme way with pink undercoat
>>
>>97606781
>wash hands after
The only real thing to do after handling resin
>>97606719
>Evacuated the building
Hypochondriac pussies
>people reported nausea and headaches
Women do that shit for no reason, especially after seeing a new medicine commercial that lists symptoms to consult a doctor about
>No honey, you do NOT have testicular cancer, for fuck's sake
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: GZLgnFRawAAraMy.jpg (62.7 KB)
62.7 KB JPG
All this autism, ragebait and nonsense...
Its giving me a sense of peace like you wouldnt believe.
>>
File: 734121_379246124025ea3a94bb3b2ca1b3e34f-253272318.jpg (48.2 KB)
48.2 KB JPG
>>97606591
I'm sick of hearing this. do you know how metal works? discounting corrosion it's all the same color. the blade of a sword or the panels on an airplane are all going to be completely uniform. the whole point of metal paints is that they look like actual metal so you can paint your shit a single color, just like real metal would be.
>>
>>
>>97607217
https://youtu.be/GAol8To7ndk?t=146
look at the disc in this video. each color reflects light like real metal. trying to paint shades on with additional colors isn't going to make it look any more like metal than it already does. on the contrary it would only make it look less realistic.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: malakwip3.png (1.9 MB)
1.9 MB PNG
i think it's done, just need varnish and a base, tomorrow
>>
>>
>>97607259
The schizo calls everyone that, the so-called craftsperg hasnt posted models in a week or so IIRC and they werent even bad, schizo never posts models though.
But adressing the topic, 99% of hobby metallics lack the reflectivity of po.ished metal, they're like stippled cast pot metals or unpolished brass plumbing fixtures, so they do need shadows and highlights.
Some anon recently posted a custodes in a truly polushed metallic gold paint that didnt need that, it caught light proper on its own, that is a very rare exception.
>>
>>97607281
>>97607281
Better than engaging your schizo ass, yet im doing just that, so why not someone who is at least on topic?
>>
>>97607364
>>97607371
>a minute apart
lol, lmao even
>>
File: IMG_20260224_101459.jpg (2.6 MB)
2.6 MB JPG
Painting up some big robots and I don't know what to do for the bases, Normally I paint board games that come with some kind of textured base, so don't really have any ideas for what to do with them.
>>
>>
>>
File: 20251111_120930.jpg (390.9 KB)
390.9 KB JPG
>>97606798
looks great, the pink is a great undertone.
>>
>>97607393
Im not saying the craftpainter is great, hes just competent, and the first stuff he posted which was nose art pinups was praiseworthy, particularly at that scale.
Yeah he got on a high horse after that about contrast paints which was autistic (look where we are though), but the nerve it struck with the fucking schizo here that's called everyone craftsperg for almost a year now is absurd, schizo must be a slapchop slopper to take it so personal.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>97607364
>alclad
>mr super metallic
>ak extreme metal
>a bunch of smaller brands I can't remember off the top of my head
so these just don't count? you might as well just say "citadel and ap metallics suck and 99% of people refuse to use anything else for some reason."
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>97607728
Literally every model in this general to ever be posted with metallics except the aforementioned custodes.
You might want to cut the snarky bitch thing with the one anon to give your shit a serious reply, asshole.
>>
>>
>>97607741
Fucks sake my bad I meant to reply to the earlier post >>97607628
>>
>>
>>
File: IMG_20260224_013035.jpg (1.3 MB)
1.3 MB JPG
Dont know why the exhaust looks suddenly super shitty but, here we are, need to attack the base now.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: carla thumbs up.png (212.4 KB)
212.4 KB PNG
>>97607840
>>97607843
Thanks ! Will improve it further because I didnt correct many mistakes, plus I see that I missed some area to shade with the photo.
>>
File: diehard.png (518.6 KB)
518.6 KB PNG
>>97607567
yes
i have 4, for that one, basil and john only the shields are separate, and melcor is just one piece
>>
>>
File: 20260224_102842.jpg (2.7 MB)
2.7 MB JPG
Took a break from painting some Tau to soak an old predator in simple green and restore it. I couldnt find anything of the old sponsons except a heavy bolter, so I had to bash my own together. Any ideas on how to make the door area looks less plain?
>>
File: 20260224_103122.jpg (6.4 MB)
6.4 MB JPG
>>97608206
front view of the sponson
>>
>>97607917
Nice! I was pinning some of otherworlds skeletons and very thin metal is a huge pain to set up right, I'll tell you that for free
That's a good looking mini though, really nice rust effect for his armor, especially on the back
>>
A few threads back, anon were talking about casting metal miniatures in silicon molds... So I started reading a lot about it. Are the spin-casting methods mostly done for higher consistency and speed, or do they capture details that much better?
>>
>>
File: Harelquin mime.png (1.3 MB)
1.3 MB PNG
realized I never showed the finished version of this, so have a mime.
>>
>>
>>97608650
GW paint
wraithbone
honestly, I'd like to buy another an completely re-do the paint scheme, but this time just base it with wraithbone primer and add details.
it's so thick because I painted to whole model blue and decided I hated it, so I went back to wraithbone, but that shit is chunky as hell no matter how much you water it.
>>
>>97608667
Yeah, I rarely see wraithbone ending up fully smooth. Maybe you could have thinned it further and done more layers, but this is simply not a problem with other off-white paints like. Hell, even pure white tends to be less chalky than that.
>>
>>
>>97608694
yeah I'm fed up with GW paints in general.
the pink gemstones and the pistol are gundam marker.
>>97608711
Neuro Disrupteez NUTZ
>>
>>
File: 1000008723.png (1.8 MB)
1.8 MB PNG
I did a bunch of the basing on my Ruststalker conversions now that I'm rapidly approaching the deadline for saturday. At least this way, even if I dont finish the models themselves, they'll have a feeling of completeness.
>>
>>
File: 68756877568.png (2.3 MB)
2.3 MB PNG
>>97607492
I was thinking about using ared black theme too, but I went for the hive fleet LA lakers
>>
>>
>>97609245
base vmc steel, deep shadows with black ink, midtones with vmc exhaust manifold, rust with dirty down rust, then highlights and scratches with vmc pale burnt metal
the shoulderpads are vgc bright bronze shaded with ap dark wood, midtone with the bronze again and highlights with the bronze mixed with pale burn metal
>>
>>
>>
File: pot-1.gif (1.2 MB)
1.2 MB GIF
>>97609573
>lizards are cool
>boobs are hot
you gay or something?
>>
>>
>>
File: 4534564565467.png (908.2 KB)
908.2 KB PNG
Oil applied now I have to wait for it to dry and add some details
>>
>painting a big model
>found a spot I forgot to prime
>don't wanna take out primer again
>just blast it with regular paint
>it's completely fine afterwards
I using a dedicated primer actually needed? Can regular paint be also used instead?
>>
>>
>>97609904
This isn't true. Primer is noticeably more durable, and often contains some kind of solvent to help bond to the plastic.
Have you ever tried handling an unprimed, unvarnished model?
However, the paint will only rub off on places that actually get rubbed, it won't fall off on it's own without primer. If theres a small spot you missed with the primer, it shouldn't matter too much, and so long as the model is varnished, it will be equally durable (primer only matters while the model isn't varnished, ie while you're still painting it).
>>
>>97609940
it's more important to watch the followup video:
https://youtu.be/QprguyGPE50
>>
File: PXL_20260223_232826432.jpg (3.2 MB)
3.2 MB JPG
Yo i heard you like trim so I got more trim for you after you finish your trim
>>
File: 1284880978728.png (280 KB)
280 KB PNG
>this shit again
>>
>>97605688
>Acetone
is not toxic to be inhaled in any quanitity youre going to be working with.
Youre body produces acetone itself, hell some diabetics literally breath off acetone and smell like nail polish remover
>>
I was digging info around the net to figure out why AK paints keep drying inside the nozzle of my airbrush and turns out it's most likely paint specific case. Seems like it both needs retarder (not just flow improver), thinner instead of water and lower pressure than what people usually use (1.0-1.2 bar instead of 1.5-2.0). Some guy even claimed that Vallejo airbrush cleaner failed to properly clean it, creating "semi soft-sheet", with only lacquer thinner being able to properly dissolve it. Crazy. I guess I will have to use IPA then, hopefully teflone seals won't get damaged in any way. I can always just use Vallejo paints (somehow their new formula works really good with airbrush) but I simply wanted to stick to same paints since later I would move to normal brush for corrections and details. And it bugs me how guys like Jose Davinci casually use normal water with those, high pressures (2.5-3.0 bar) and only get dried tip, which is easy to clean within seconds.
Anyone also having some problems with AK paints in airbrush?
>>
>>
>>
File: monolith2.jpg (2.1 MB)
2.1 MB JPG
>>97608206
rivets!
>>
>>97610355
I'm using AK (3rd Gen and IFV, to be clear) with Vallejo thinner/flow improver pretty much every day and I never had a problem like that. Considering I have nearly 100 AK paints, I would say you probably got some bad batch of paints/thinner.
>>
>>
>>
File: empire stuff.jpg (581.2 KB)
581.2 KB JPG
>>97607284
Yep. Printed a bunch of Empire themed stuff recently. I want to try out Old World.
>>
File: IMG_5623.jpg (1.4 MB)
1.4 MB JPG
My apologies if this is a retarded question, but can any anons help me figure out the paints I’d need to replicate this scheme? I tried Castellan for the dark green and Elysian for the trim on a test model, but it doesn’t look right. Thanks in advance.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>97611015
>>97611024
Thanks guys
>>
>>
File: IMG_1943.jpg (590 KB)
590 KB JPG
Here's the comparision shot
Left to right: Tamiya X-13, Citadel Akhelian Green over Leadbelcher and drybrushed with runefang steel, Vallejo TMM turqoise and the complimentary wash.
Overall, the base turqoise metallic looks very close to a 1:1 mix of Akhelian Green and Contrast medium, hue is something inbetween.
I think it's a very good candidate for painting Alpha Legion if you're looking for a something straight out of the bottle that can be applied with a brush and airbrush without having to resort to chemicals.
>>
>>
>>
>>97610932
>>97611015
Don't be afraid to try mixing your paints. You can do a lot by adjusting warmth. Even the dark green on most of the armor there is actually multiple colors. For instance, on the legs it's much darker in some places (almost black) and in other places it's a much lighter green.
>>
>>
>>
>>97611152
That is a specific color.
Anon will never paint anything that looks like that picture because there is a wide scale of hue on every panel AND he wont be viewing it against a cream background.
That 2D image sure as shit wasn't coliured with Citadel (TM*) pots, was it?
>>
>>
File: imperial_bastion&johnny.jpg (142.7 KB)
142.7 KB JPG
>>97610932
>>97611015
I think you might be on the right track with Castellan Green, but you'll have to wash it. Something dark like a black or dark brown wash to make it suitably yucky.
What about using Typhus Corrosion to dirty it up? GW still makes that, don't they? I did something similar for my Imperial Bastion.
>>
File: IMG_1950.jpg (935.4 KB)
935.4 KB JPG
>>97611192
I don'tt have anything in silver currently on hand, except for actual bare metal miniatures lol. Wash looks pretty strong, something between a regular was and contrast probably.
Below, you have just the base color, it seems to be noticably brighter without the wash.
>>
>>
>>97611249
Interesting. If I get my hands on the paint, I'll probably thin it. Haven't had a lot of experience with washes that aren't black or brown, but I've found what I have tried ironically darker than things like Nuln Oil or VGC black wash.
>>
>>
>>
File: lootedmonolith.jpg (2 MB)
2 MB JPG
>>97610593
danke
>>
File: G56yb9aakAAJMHC.jpg (30.5 KB)
30.5 KB JPG
>We don't really need to worry about priming our minis
>As long as you varnish it at the end I'm told the first coat is equivalent to a primer
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>97611169
I’ll have to give that a try, and also play around a bit with washes. Thanks, anon.
>>97611208
Yeah, like I said to the other anon, I definitely need to play around with washes, but Castellan really seems like the best match. Typhus Corrosion has grit in it to mimic crust and/or rust, so it wouldn’t be great, but maybe some streaking grime after an agrax wash would get me where I want to be. Thanks, anon.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: 132697759_hbo-chernobyl-cast-true-story-paul-ritter(1).jpg.352806e42ddc7e2803250633b45290c6.jpg (83.6 KB)
83.6 KB JPG
>>97611632
>You didn't see any chipping on the edges
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>97611777
>They told them that acrylic paint works as a primer if you let it cure long enough.
>they gave them the GW 'undercoat' propagandaI don't care, I'm just /rbmk/-posting because I think it's funny, you don't hef to be mad
>>
>>
>>
File: IMG_9453.jpg (365 KB)
365 KB JPG
Who else has magnetized their knights? Y’all got any tips?
>>
>>97611854
actually don't know about the varnish, I was just curious if that helps
otherwise the PVA is to make surfaces harder, XPS foam is soft without it and the cardboard parts could use some glue reinforcement too anyway
the paint is just a basecoat and to add shadow into hard to reach little spots
also they are kind of a primer, my foam has this hole-y surface and pva helps to fill those
>>
>>
File: tiny_bluetooth_speaker.jpg (348.4 KB)
348.4 KB JPG
>>97611950
>Arrange your Knight's carapace so you can remove it to access the chest cavity.
>Line the inside of the chest cavity with soft foam.
>Insert a really small Bluetooth speaker.
Now he has his own soundtrack!
>>
File: armiger_magnet.png (63.3 KB)
63.3 KB PNG
>>97611950
i just did 2 amigers myself. i used 5x2mm circular magnets.
for the top part I removed the little circular part that the gun get's clam shelled around. then the 5x2 magnet is a little too big to fit into the spot in the gun, so I used a knife to ream out the top of the slot until there was enough room to fit the magnet flush. you don't want to touch the bottom level so there's something for the magnet to rest on. I just used super glue, but if you want to be fancy you can fill it in with green stuff. I didn't think it was necessary because it will be covered by the other magnet.
>>
File: IMG_20260224_202411~2.jpg (212.3 KB)
212.3 KB JPG
I knew I shouldn't apply edge highlighting here but I couldn't resist. I'm sorry.
>>
>>
>>97612079
Someone argued last time that scale models of ~18m tall robots shouldn't be edge highlighted due to their size and scale. Then again, many techniques produce effects that are completely unrealistic (like multiple points of light) but people do them anyway since they look cool.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>97611190
No, "green" is not a specific color. Not even with oil paints. It tells nothing about the warmth or tone.
Anon can paint something that looks like that picture if he gets a list of paints used, in what ratios, and in which order. He can also mix his own paints, if he gets something more specific than just "green lmao"
That retardation about the rest of the colors listed, let alone NMM is not even worth commenting.
>>
>>
>>
File: cables.jpg (617.7 KB)
617.7 KB JPG
Almost done with the helstalker head.
>>
>>
File: IMG_20260224_220146~3.jpg (3 MB)
3 MB JPG
After adding edge highlighting to blue and red on my scratchbuild project, it's time to move to adding markings and lines, before going for (subtle) weathering. Problem is - I cannot really decide on what should I use. This is supposed to be machine for local ace so I guess it would fit to add some "heraldry" so maybe Salamanders symbol on one shoulder and, since he uses this clan colors, Hojo clan mon. But what about the rest? I have some decals from GW kits, including Tau sheet from (old ed but identical to current box) Broadside battlesuit but without any idea what exactly these symbols mean.
I don't trust myself to do freehand kanji symbols. Yet.
>>
>>97609489
>>97609644
That's really cool, anon. When I was a kid I had some purple and orange 'nids.
>>
>>
>>
>>97612061
I think it's good, I'm honestly curious to see how it'd look done across the entire model.
>>97611468
That is really cool, it sells the scrapyard look so well!
>>97609603
Blue+orange is always a very eye-catching scheme. I don't know what your plan is for the weapons but I'd suggest doing at least parts of them in a dark color for some contrast.
>>97607833
I think you might've went a bit overboard with the OSL but he's still really cool! I feel like adding some bruising on the skin would look good.
>>97607311
I really like how you painted the armor, it has a great weathered feel to it.
>>
>>
File: 20260224_224425.jpg (2.2 MB)
2.2 MB JPG
...i might need some sleep
>>
>>
File: gunbuster_rising.webm (3.3 MB)
3.3 MB WEBM
>>97612896
>No one have any advice for basing?
These are super robots like Mazinger or Gunbuster right? So a much bigger scale than Battletech? What about a suitably tiny urban landscape around them with little buildings? You could make ruined buildings out of cut-up sprues!
>>
>>
File: IMG_20260225_090615.jpg (2.6 MB)
2.6 MB JPG
>>97612949
They are approximately office building size.
>>
File: IMG_20260222_223148916_HDR.jpg (1.5 MB)
1.5 MB JPG
Anyone do urban rubble basing have any recommendations for ground scatter? I was thinking coarse grey kitty litter, sprue bits, and maybe copper wiring but I'll take any ideas for more variety
>>
>>
File: IMG_20260224_231636~2.jpg (1.1 MB)
1.1 MB JPG
>>97612869
Obviously when everything will be put together it will give better idea but red parts are minority, model is mostly kept in blue shades.
Don't know if you are the anon who was posting with Yuru Camp pics but if so - these were cute and I really appreciate your good work.
>>
>>
File: IMG_20260224_232052~2.jpg (841.4 KB)
841.4 KB JPG
>>97613048
I once got some foam-like material for dioramas that I started to cut and use as bricks and it works really nice due to it's "sponge-like" surface.
>>
File: terminator_HK_tank_crushing_skulls.webm (1.2 MB)
1.2 MB WEBM
>>97613048
Do you have Citadel's box of skulls? There seem to be a lot of bleached bone skulls littering the ground in post-apocalyptic settings.
>>
>>97612707
That's funny coming from a slackjawed halfwit sheeple npc that needs a pot of paint to be labeled Nurgle, Rot, Pus, Foetid, etc... to feel like it is okay to use it on a plague marine.
Does GW hold your hand when you tie your shoes as well?
Green is green, faggot, you can adjust tone by adding a little bit of another colour, that's what a fucking palette is for.
>>
>>
File: greens.png (27 KB)
27 KB PNG
>>97613239
NTA, which green do you mean?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>97613280
That's not actually how CYMBW works. You can only arrive at colors through a curve towards them on the color wheel/cylinder, you leave out all the brightly saturated colors around the edges, which is why pigments are important and every color paint isn't just a mix of the same 5 pigments, and why pantone uses 18 base colors for example (still not perfect, but much closer)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: 1000036744.jpg (1.8 MB)
1.8 MB JPG
Spent the weekend making a grass terrain board. Plopped some minis on it to take some photos. Super happy for how this turned out for my first attempt.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: 20260225_145636.jpg (510.3 KB)
510.3 KB JPG
>>97610586
Took the advice and added a bunch. I really like the result
>>
>>
File: 1000008676.jpg (290.1 KB)
290.1 KB JPG
>>97611149
Super useful info anon. I was planning on starting my loyalist AL army soon, and currently Im on the akhelian green train.
>>
File: 1000007212.jpg (625.9 KB)
625.9 KB JPG
>>97611950
I realised at one point that I really didnt give a fuck if the magnet was visible and just cut the nub off the upp arm and sanded it flat. Did the same to the connector to the weapon and its been fine ever since. I would recommend magnetising the plate-shield thing the gun sits on as well because knight kits have more guns than bodies for the guns to sit on. If you have access to a 3d printer or if you mean to get more guns anyways then I wouldn't bother.
>>
File: Daecius v4.35 01.jpg (1.7 MB)
1.7 MB JPG
Chapter Master for my custom legion for a 4th Edition Narrative Campaign I'm prepping for. Very happy with how it is coming along.
>>
File: Daecius v4.35 02.jpg (1.9 MB)
1.9 MB JPG
>>97615296
Working lore in my head is scavenged Necron tech used to super power a Tartaros suit.
>>
>>
>>
>>
gave the cape a little texture
>>
>>
File: 1755529796674476.png (3.9 MB)
3.9 MB PNG
Red
>>
>>
File: dante_revised_recipe.jpg (1.1 MB)
1.1 MB JPG
>>97615094
>Whats a good wash mix for metallics?
For gold, I found that using Darkoath Flesh Contrast Paint instead of other paints marketed specifically for washing (Seraphim Sepia, which is too light, or even Agrax Earthshade!) makes a nice rich gold colour.
>>
File: 2_3.jpg (1.1 MB)
1.1 MB JPG
>>97616816
Adding to that, you can get a very nice shadow color for gold by adding some purple tones. I use a 1:1 mix of gore-grunta fur and magos purple contrasts but you can just as well use something like reikland fleshshade and druchii violet.
>>
>>97616816
I don't know if it's any easier, but for the muzzle burn, I painted it bronze, did a light airbrushing of red ink on the barrel, then airbrushing blue ink on the tip of the barrel, letting a little overspray into the red.
>>
File: IMG_20260225_182214.png (1.7 MB)
1.7 MB PNG
i gave painting white a shot and looks like i missed some jewerly
should i spice the claws up with little bright violet drybrush
>>
>>
File: IMG_20260225_185050~2.jpg (474.6 KB)
474.6 KB JPG
Sprayed a little bit too around somehow so I will need to correct that tomorrow. I honestly thought that I don't need more masking tape on the one on the right since I can just get close up - turned out that it still sprayed around a little bit. I also assumed that Salamanders decal will fit.
But overall I'm sad that even Vallejo paints started to dry inside the nozzle and that despite keeping low pressure and small trigger movements it still sprayed around. No, I cannot afford H&S stuff, sorry.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>97617722
Maybe but I had very same issue with AK paints so it's definitely problem with this particular airbrush. Sooner or later (sooner if I spray less paint with smaller trigger movement) paint start to form layer around the needle, at region where the nozzle is. I have little info about that problem since every search for paint drying problem returns discussions about tip drying instead. Maybe "floating" nozzle design is much more sensitive to imperfections and air could somehow blow back and thus drying paint inside. No idea at all.
>>
>>
>>
>>97617774
I have experienced this same thing with Mr Hobby Creos & a H&S; which are of very comparable quality and only one of them was 100$ USD.
I mostly use Tamiya paints and suchlike through my airbrushes for reasons like this (easier to clean).
What are you thinning your paint with?
>>
>>
>>97618336
>I have experienced this same thing with Mr Hobby Creos & a H&S; which are of very comparable quality and only one of them was 100$ USD.
This sentence is useless if you don't say what specific airbrushes are you using, anon.
>>
>>
>>97618336
Vallejo dedicated airbrush thinner and flow improver, usually 4-1 thinner-improver ratio and 1-1 of this mix to paint. Tried adding a bit of retarder too but it didn't help. If I only understood the mechanism behind this drying since obviously paint should dry on tip first as this is the place where stream of air hits the paint. Unless I got it all wrong.
>>
File: 20260225_193012.jpg (253.4 KB)
253.4 KB JPG
>>97605414
I have been working on 3 kitbashes in the past week for my templars, I'm finally almost done, just needs to smooth out some details.
Here's my proudest creation, loosely inspired by a certain artwork, a beer to the anon that recognizes it
>>
>>
File: Screenshot_20260225-203334-060.png (138.5 KB)
138.5 KB PNG
And I seriously wonder if this is the problem with this nozzle design. So called "floating" nozzle is supposed to be locked in place by the cap and center itself around the needle, with air flowing through the "channels" around it (pic related), unlike normal nozzle that is screwed in. But it must sit tight on (teflone) seal since otherwise it would cause backflow and bubbles, which does not happen.
>>
File: Marshal.jpg (88.1 KB)
88.1 KB JPG
>>97618400
Love it.
>>
>>
>>
>>97618404
No, but close enough really
>>97618415
A beer and many thanks
>>97618452
>>97618423
Thanks lads, and I'm done with rivets for a while
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: photo-guide_white.jpg (967.1 KB)
967.1 KB JPG
>>97618717
a bright desk lamp, a lightbox(or a couple sheets of paper) and a phone is all you need really
>>
>>97617603
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eEmImXbrhGQ
according to this video the air and paint should only be mixing at the tip of the needle. so if you are getting paint clogging the needle further back your shit must be leaking internally.
>>
>>
>>97618768
If it leaks, which part exactly would cause this behaviour? Airbrush contained spare seals, I also bought spare needle before. Don't have spare nozzle but its available, would need to order it and ship, however.
>>
>>
>>97618354
GSI Creos 270 ps and H&S Ultra 2025? I think. The Creos (cheaper one) is a a but harder to clean and needs to get disassembled.
>>97618381
by nature of... the air part of the airbrush... you will have air in the forward part of the tubey-nozzle bit. I've found that taking less breaks between starting and stopping painting helps this somewhat (basically what this: >>97618768 anon is saying, but I didn't watch the video). But, again, Tamiya alcohol acrylics are easier to clean out than traditional acrylics, because of their ability to be reactivated with isopropyl.
Good luck <3
>>97618400
That bolt doesn't line up with the weird underslung barrel?
>>97618381
>>
File: PXL_20260225_203927021.jpg (2.4 MB)
2.4 MB JPG
fugg
I also hate buying specialty airbrush cleaner.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>97618862
I do dip the tip of the brush into a thingy of iso. I'm assuming anon is talking about buildup just inside the nozzle and not on the exterior tip.
... and that doesn't change the fact that the alcohol based acrylics clean easier with iso than regular acrylics.
>>97618875
fantastic stuff anon. great juxtaposition of clean and dirty
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>97618895
Yeah, inside the nozzle. Somehow tip is fine and clean all the time.
The only case where this was not happening was when I sprayed Vallejo primer from their mecha color line and in odd combination of adding 8 drops of flow improver and just 2 thinner to 10 drops of primer. I was not sure how much I should use so I started looking specifically for this primer and found Vallejo own video where guy was making this odd mix so I said "why the hell not".
But with primer I didnt attempt to make thin lines or spray small amount by only partially move trigger back so maybe there is something with that...
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: file.png (3.9 MB)
3.9 MB PNG
>>97619028
nta but no it doesn't
I don't bother to clean the outside and my cup inside is clean and the nozzle and needle are too
>>
File: PXL_20260225_203927021~2.jpg (2 MB)
2 MB JPG
>>97618953
I use these literally every day lol. Chill.
>>97619060
See: >>97618985 the air and paint mix in the sections I've highlighted red. ... it'snot a very complicated concept.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>97619075
https://youtu.be/Iw4kHU91FcU?t=637
in this video it shows that the air comes out of a different hole from the paint which is what the cutaway in the other video also shows.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: 20260225_145151.jpg (629 KB)
629 KB JPG
The Prometheus statue in MYC was reguilded recently so I thought I'd take a snappy to show a golden statue gleaming without any sunlight around.
>>
File: 20260225_145207.jpg (806.4 KB)
806.4 KB JPG
>>97619259
NYC, that is
>>
File: 20260225_145159.jpg (1 MB)
1 MB JPG
>>97619265
I played around with the saturation a wee bit
>>
>>97619169
>>97609495
also check this
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hsgFPMsnAKE
>>
>>
>>
File: at last.jpg (125.3 KB)
125.3 KB JPG
>>97619341
>>
File: IMG_0102.jpg (1.8 MB)
1.8 MB JPG
>>97618717
a piece of white paper laying at a right angle, a daylight lamp and a telephoto lens
even without a big lens taking your photos from a distance helps immensely with getting everything in focus
>>
File: FG Sol.jpg (420.6 KB)
420.6 KB JPG
For people that hate assembling/building, do you mainly just use complicated mono-pose minis like Warhammer? I have so much fun designing and assembling warbands out of my various Northstar kits. I'm now wondering if people hate it because they are assembling minis with no choice. You have so many options with multi-part kits to be creative and it's usually just legs, torso, 2 arms, head and whatever else you want to attach.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: 1755967623501183.jpg (35.9 KB)
35.9 KB JPG
>>97619854
>can you just suck corporate cock and get out of my safe space?
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: image_2026-02-25_193017717.png (298.5 KB)
298.5 KB PNG
>POV you're getting painted
>>
>>
>>
>>97620137
>umad xD
>>97620155
and you call me the shitposter
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
How much better would GW models be if they invested in a 3-part mold instead of 2-parts? Obviously it would probably triple the price knowing GW, but what improvements would we see? I know they'd actually pre-drill gun barrels, but not much else.
>>
>>97620502
you wouldn't have to worry about undercut designs failing in plastic injection so the forgeworld MK2 design would've been preserved instead of the nu-MK2 which has a bunch of level plates
the baneblade actually has a four part mold for the barrels
>>
>>97620502
They have at least one 3 part mold, since I'm pretty sure the baneblade uses one. Realistically the only thing they'd be gaining is pre-drilled barrels and maybe slightly more design flexibility on specific parts. I don't think it would be worth it for them to invest in the technology.
What they really need to do is start designing their vehicle kits like Bandai do with their plamo. If the new imperial knight kit ends up being fucking monopose again, I'm going to riot.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: marble base v1.jpg (2.3 MB)
2.3 MB JPG
first try at doing a marble base. I'm pretty sure I know what I need to fix to get a better marbling pattern and let the white cover more area while keeping the greens and black beneath thin and distinct. Looking forward to getting it right.
>>97621598
impressive, very nice
>>
>>97621592
I'm in australia too, check out
https://www.gaahleri.com/products/gaahleri-airbrush-kit-airbrush-gun-g had-39-dual-action-gravity-gravity- 1-2-1-4-oz-fluid-cup-0-35-0-5-mm-ne edle-cost-effective
I have their swallowtail one and was pretty impressed
But $50 is fuck all, how are you so poor?
Also why are you getting a AB?
I have a few but relatedly bother using them due to the hassle
check out supercheapauto or auto stores for compressors, they usually have them cheap
>>
>>97621873
>But $50 is fuck all, how are you so poor?
i'm just not sure how much i should be paying for one which is why i asked if $50 was a reasonable entry point, sorry if this confused you
>Also why are you getting a AB?
because i was at a garage sale the other day and the guy was an old timer who happened to be a scale model train sperg and i bought his airbrush compressor for cheap so i figured i would try get a cheapish brush and give it a go
>>
>>97620760
I'm talking about the legs, forgot to specify. AFAIK the only knight kit with properly poseable legs is the lancer and co, the questoris legs are monopose and the armiger legs only have 2 posing options.
>>
>>
>>
File: 20260225_155402.jpg (2.7 MB)
2.7 MB JPG
Scouts done. Painting bare arms is a hassle, the muscles look like shells.
>>97618717
I use a cheap lightbox. It sucks because the background is a bit glossy.
Maybe I'll use a black cloth/tshirt, but the box in itself is great for capturing lights.
I use daylight and the box's upper LEDs though, I take the pictures with the minis facing my window.
>>
>>
>>97622101
Ok, I asked why as in are you going to just prime and zenithal, or pretty involved AB painting, for the former a cheap one is fine, for the latter you might want a better one
50 is cheap territory, ~100-150 is prob what you need for a good one, but I would just get the one I linked above and see if you like ABing first
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>97622504
never even used one which is why i'm interested in entry level devices. if it's only capable of priming/zenithal/base coasting then that's good enough for me. i'm a paintlet anyway, just want to save some time on base coating batches of minis really
>>97622521
are there any decent airbrushes in the sub $100 price range or is it chinkshit only?
>>
File: IMG_20260226.jpg (3 MB)
3 MB JPG
>>97622527
But I do.
>>97622542
>are there any decent airbrushes in the sub $100 price range or is it chinkshit only?
At that price range, it's all chinkshit copy of a copy of a copy, and it will always be a compromise. You might get acceptable atomization and general performance, but the maintenance will suck dick. Which is why you get anons buying airbrushes that they will ultimately stop using. Or you might get good atomization and performance, but the materials will suck dick, which might result in breakage.
My under $100 pick would be Fengda BD-180. The materials suck dick, it's a fragile brush, but it sprays really nicely, including tiny stuff. While the maintenance is not as easy and smooth as with actually good airbrushes with which you can just do it in seconds, it's not a pure humiliation ritual as with other chinkbrushes, either. It's one of the most popular budget airbrushes in scale model circles, and for a good reason.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>97622542
Problem with Chinese is that it's a lottery - you might get shitty ones but might as well get something good quality - not "hair thin line" quality but good enough. Gaahleri gets a lot of prise but people suspect that it might come from massive advertising campaign since they are fairly "new". People do use cheap entry level airbrushes with success so your results may vary.
Something bugs me about this whole discussion about airbrushes and quality of them. Someone looking from the outside could conclude that there are two categories of these devices - premium, expensive ones like H&S or Iwata and everything else, which is dogshit quality. Makes little sense when you realise that people were painting with far worse paints in the past using far less advanced tools. Even said Chinese improved drastically in quality. So why this somehow no longer works?
>>
>>
>>
>>97622612
>you don't even own an airbrush!
>well maybe you do, but it's... too expensive!
Anon, no matter what I post will undo the fact you wasted money for a shitty chinkbrush. It's fine, I fell for it too, I still have a piece of shit Gaahleri on a shelf somewhere. Accept it, and move on.
>>97622617
It's an expensive tool I love very much, so I take a very good care of it.
>>97622622
Of course, there are good mid-range airbrushes. But I think the problem is with what anons expect to be a good airbrush for a good price. It also depends on a range a lot. For example, I would tell people not to buy something like HS Ultra; the quality and performance difference between that brush and say something like BD 180 is not that extreme, imo.
A good airbrushes, in my view, start with Iwata or HS upper mid-range models, like Evolution or Eclipse. Especially Evolution is like 90% of Infinity for a lot less money. These models are the golden standard, and you'll get awesome performance, easy and simple maintenance, and good materials.
>>97622649
The difference there is that a majority of Gaahleri range is dogshit. Redgrass is obscenely overpriced, but it's good.
>>
>>
>>
>>
File: 1751126088497613.jpg (35.4 KB)
35.4 KB JPG
>>97622660
>if you don't fulfill all my inane demands you are wrong
>>
>>
>>
>>97622542
>are there any decent airbrushes in the sub $100 price range or is it chinkshit only?
i'm pretty sure you can still get the gsi PS270 at 100€ depending on where you live, and that's as good as a 200€ iwata
not sure how's the €/$ change nowadays
however, any chinkshit that is chromed (not those colorful aliminium ones) and with a fixed cup on top, is perfectly fine for our purposes
>>97622606
>The materials suck dick, it's a fragile brush
i have the chinesium bd134 wich is also shit design, but other than having an easily sanded burr on the nozzle cap i wouldn't call it fragile or bad, had it for 10+ years and i have even dropped it several times and works perfectly fine, just changed the nozzle once because i dropped it face first with no guard, and one o-ring
maintenance is about the same as my gsi ps270 (ignoring the shit design, wich is not the chinesium fault), so if you get a bd130 it would be the same steps and the same effort
airbrushes are a solved problem, it's not like buying a shit drill with a chink battery that could explode on you or run offcenter, the quality differential won't make it unusable, and our requirement baseline is low if you have to ask here for advice
>>
Taking advantage of this whole airbrush discussion - when considering between the two, which one would be better buy - Iwata Eclipse or H&S Evolution (2024)? Both cost the same (at least for me), both have very good reputation.
>>
>>
>>
File: Maulerfiend 99_.jpg (1.8 MB)
1.8 MB JPG
Its back and super close to be finished.
Let me know if you think of something that could dramatically improve it or if something is really bothering.
I'll take a step back, going to review my army list in prevision of my next game and come back to fix shits.
>>97612869
> I feel like adding some bruising on the skin would look good.
Dont know how to do it properly, but if you come back with some yuru pics, I'll consider it.
>>97618875
Absolutely rad !
>>97611149
Damn, you were quick on that review.
>>97618400
Yooooow... All that nostalgia posting and dedication is really something to behold.
>>
File: image0 (97).jpg (3.3 MB)
3.3 MB JPG
>>97605414
Finally finished (outside of a few select grass placements and wash shading) my English and French early 1400's forces I have been working on for like a year. Pretty happy how they turned out!
>>
>>97623030
>Dont know how to do it properly, but if you come back with some yuru pics, I'll consider it.
Okay, okay. I'll start again next thread or the one after it. I've never painted bruising either to be honest but I assume it's just adding some reddish hues where skin meets the metal?
>>97623337
Lovely army, anon.
>>
File: johnny new new thread sticker.png (336.3 KB)
336.3 KB PNG
New thread:
>>97623555
>>97623555
>>97623555