Thread #97623555
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Work in Progress, End of February Edition
>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD
>WIP Tutorial Images Mega
https://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw
>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno
>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s
>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI
>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM
>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c
>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk
>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI
>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g
>Airbrush Priming and Thinning
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8
>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny
>Previous Threads:
>>97605414
>>97589522
>>97568566
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>>97623555
>>97623494
thanks!
>>97623494
(posting again since it was at the end of last thread)
Finally finished (outside of a few select grass placements and wash shading) my English and French early 1400's forces I have been working on for like a year. Pretty happy how they turned out!
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>>97623645
I was originally going to use just your army's picture as the OP for this thread, since they looked so nice - then I realized I had enough time to put together a collage before we hit page 10.
These losers are just about done. I'm debating even bothering to put insignia on them, as I'd rather spend time painting nicer-looking things... but I'm getting tired of having to sub in a ancient Firstborn assault squad for games of Combat Patrol.
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Skin for da B'rohg. Thinking about cutting out the rock and replacing it with a d20.
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I made a new wash recipe I really like.
>4 drops water
>3 drops Deco Art Dura Clear Ultra Matte*
>1 drop Liquitex Burnt Umber ink (any ink will do but that's one of the best)
It has a Marine Juice sort of effect, and it will kill the shine on the mini while not clogging details. If you're gentle with your minis it's also essentially varnished afterwards.
*not married to it but it's my current favorite, it's higher viscosity in the bottle so it doesn't separate like some others.
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can someone explain the actual differences between the iwata hp-c, the hp-cr, and the hp-tr? I get that the r means it's part of the entry level revolution line but what is actually different about it? is the only difference between the cr and the tr the trigger design?
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I tried to be more careful about paying attention to the light source for how the gems were shinning and it was a big pain in the ass and I think I would prefer to not do that anymore.
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>>97624084
How did you apply it? Can we get a pic?
Olive oil is a traditional way but it never worked for me. Putting matte medium over it was more effective in my experience.
There's a difference depending on how bad it is though. If it's frosted from too porous an application, then matte medium should help. If the matting agent clumped or collected in the recesses, there's not much you can do.
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>>97624130
It's really cool though. Good job.
Unlike whoever designed this captcha, what the fuck.
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>>97624311
Varnish tends to have better self-leveling properties. I've tried acrylic mediums and they tend to have more pooling.
Matte also seems to have less pooling than gloss when used as a wash, from the exact same brands. I'm not sure why, it's what happened during my experiments.
You can always experiment, that's the fun part, and if you're using different brands than I was, who knows what will happen?
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I hope I didn't overdo the weathering. But it also means it's pretty much the end since next step is applying varnish.
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>>97624372
>>97624378
I can see what he means but IMO if it ain't broke don't fix it.
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today's model
i want to put something silly for his base but not sure what yet, maybe a plushie?
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>>97624431
>maybe a plushie?
What's the smallest Gryph-hound miniature you can find?
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>>97624339
i was just wondering because I did something similar with water, matte acrylic medium, burnt umber ink and a little black acrylic paint. it never really got wet enough, so i was thinking of using something like flow improver instead of some water to make it a little more runny. i was trying to make something like nuln oil, just without the gloss.
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>>97624179
I think the language is historical. Varnishing is the verb for applying any protective coating, because the original protective coating was varnish. Probably because we are not woodworkers and so didn’t understand the difference.
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>>97624467
I don't use pure flow improver for a few reasons.
A. It doesn't evaporate like water does. Say you put paint + flow improver on a mini. The only thing in that combo with water is a little bit in the paint, so when it dries it won't shrink that much. Having a lot of water in the mix means it will shrink when it dries, which prevents clogging details. (the lack of evaporation also makes the flow improver bottle really messy)
2. It's easy to go overboard. Not objectively a problem but it's very potent and that makes it harder to deal with, and plays into:
3. It reduces adhesion. Flow improver is essentially soap and you can break the paint's ability to bond, unlike water where even super thinned paint will stick once it dries.
There is some flow improver in ink, so between that and the water you should have been able to make a decent wash. I would speculate you just didn't use enough water, it should be at least 50%. It's important to have some medium too though, so the wash flows evenly.
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>>97624192
I call it clear coat because that's what it says on the can in america, which you would (should) know if you're actually american and not just an esl that's irrationally mad that americans talk different than you.
>>97624469
I don't care what's historical because I'm not a historical reenactor or one of those "nonces" who thinks it's funny to talk like a 19th century englishman despite being from wisconsin. it's the 21st century and varnish is for wood.
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Is the OSL ok? First time trying it with something else than blue plasma.
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>>97624582
I think it looks very comfy.
meanwhile, I'm still cranking out some islands
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First time doing weathered leather
>>97624648
Awesome
>>97624582
Looks good and realistic
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>>97624582
all these areas should have penumbra or full shadow, and none of the fire colors
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>>97624736
>>97625066
Thanks, I will try to correct this.
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>>97624577
I see your point, but in the same respect a “clear coat” is only for cars. So maybe the best way to say is to seal or finish it: I’m not even sure if the “varnish” we spray on minis is anything other than clear paint with a uniform surface finish.
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>>97623555
Man those OP collages are such a fantastic idea, thank you baker-san.
>>97625357
That'd be pretty cool, honestly
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>>97623555
>>97618921
Sorry for the late reply
I'm actually done painting one of the other 2 so here it is, just missing the base and some minor stuff.
This would be my combi lieutenant kitbash. I unironically already own the standard gw model that came with the leviathan box, but I thought I'd rather have a more unique one for my army. It's a chimera of bits, starting from some phobos torso and legs, but he does have the right loadout and everything. Pretty satisfied with how he came out.
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>>97625644
Attaching the image would probably help with visual aid
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>>97625644
>>97618921
And here's the last one, still in need of a couple more touches; an intercessor sergeant that, for once, actually displays the loadout he's usually played with. By far the simplest kitbash of the three
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Can we get some recast info going, any Australians know of a good Russian recaster?
I'm not paying this
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Yuru anon, I failed you, I'm sorry, it was too much work to put decent bruises on joints, way too many of it, and not super accessible.
>>97625654
>>97625697
This is so peak godamnit
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>>97624084
>>97624133
Apparently you could just apply a gloss coat and work from there.
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>>97625132
it's not just for cars. the rustoleum and krylon clears in rattlecans that people use on their miniatures obviously isn't meant for cars. the same goes for products like cerakote and duracoat. you can call up basically any paint shop or place that does custom graphics in the country and ask them if they can spray "varnish" on plastic and they won't have any clue what you're talking about.
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Almost done with my Empire stuff from last year.
Two characters left.
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primed the predator ive been restoring for the past week.
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>>97625700
>I could buy 5 ancient ogre models for $195
>Or I could buy 22 for $190
And I consider KoW to be overpriced as well. If you just want 5 ogre mercenaries, you have plenty of cheaper options. You could get the wargames Atlantic ogre landsknechts, any of the smaller KoW boxes or any number of the 3D printing digital stores. There's a few in Aus but if you want Eastern Europe, Ukraine does a lot of 3D printing, but the shipping from Europe is going to fuck you hard, so look for something local.
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>>97625700
>>97626664
You can buy a 3d printer, a kilogram of resin, a litre of isopropyl, a UV flashlight and a set of ogre STL's for that same price.
Join us, come on... it's cheaper in the end!
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>>97625827
Thanks anon. I like how you did the molten screaming faces
>>97625932
Glad to hear that man
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lol I found a 10 year old tin of army painter dip, migh actually use it to speed up my hobby progress the next necrons and admech are getting dipped
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>>97626714
No it is not, if you cook in your apartment, if you use febreze, if you use name brand laundry detergents, if you drive or take a bus, you expose yourself to far worse air quality contaminants.
wear gloves, dont drink the resin. That's it.
If you can afford it and choose not too out of paranoid ignorance then you shouldnt bitch about expensive minis.
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>>97625357
memes are temporary
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>>97623923
Progress on my 4 armed masturbation monster. Waiting for the layers to dry then going in for the hair and the rock, before touching up the skin again where the other paints touched it.
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Should i get an airbrush with nozzle size 0.3 or 0.5mm for primming, basecoating and topcoating?
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>>97627352
I can't help you with your question for I do not airbrush, but 2 things
1) Very cute model, excellent detail work on her lingerie pattern, those roses (assuming they are a rose pattern) are 100% on point. (would sof)
2) plz scrub under your nails, for I am vomit
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>>97627352
I have a .3 and I don't think it actually matters that much unless you're freehanding. There are so many variables that you can put out plenty of paint with a .3, and you usually won't want to. Maybe a .5 would waste more paint.
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>>97627370
Thank you
>>97627377
>>97627389
I thought a 0.5 mm nozzle would distribute primer, paint, and varnish more evenly than a 0.3 mm nozzle ?
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>>97627473
You are welcome anon. Seriously great job I am super jealous of those details of roses. I tip my hat to you for your steady hand. (no hard feelings on your nails, I am a nail biter I cant stand shit on mine desu desu desu)
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>>97627570
Here's the real secret: The best glue is also resin. UV resin, to be specific. Its a gap filler, its a glue, its 3d printing fluid, it does it all.
Here's a censer and some purity seals I printed. There's 0 glue involved in the assembly of the censer. It's all resin.
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>>97627595
>UV resin,
I tried this but it doesn't adhere
My guess is its fine with printed resin since its not entirely polymerised yet
but recast resin is all done
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>>97627609
>>97627595
Why there are so many different version of UV glue? Which one is for gap filler, which one is for water effect, which one is for glueing?
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>>97627624
>Why there are so many different version of UV glue? Which one is for gap filler, which one is for water effect, which one is for glueing?
probably dependent on viscosity
you can use them interchangeably I believe
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>>97627240
putting up the brush for the evening. any thoughts? (I need to watch where I stick my fingers to manipulate the model, I keep taking off flakes of paint on knees and other edges ;o;)
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>>97627776
NTA. They are the highest detail standard for models of 28mm size nowadays and are usually, although lately it's been debatable, of legitimately premium build quality that you can't get with the average consumer grade 3DP unit. Not shilling I fucking hate GW as a company but they do often have nice plastic.
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>>97627822
People who try to say GW models don't compare haven't tried other 25-32mm scale miniatures
Say what you will about their price gouging and monopose-ness, there's a reason why scale modelers always comment on how nice GW kits are when they try them out
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>>97627822
>legitimately premium build quality
are you talking about the minis that have nasty ass mold lines running right through the middle of extremely detailed areas, giant gaps between parts, and peg connections that don't fit without sanding?
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>>97627744
>>97627748
I was spraying Vallejo "Mecha Color" primer just fine with 0.3mm needle, just added more flow improver than thinner (7 drops of FI, 3 drops of thinner per 10 drops of primer). But before that I sprayed just fine with 5 drops of thinner per 10 of primer so it should be fine.
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>>97627822
Detail just doesn't really mean anything to me. The models are so ugly. I really hate the style of most of their stuff. You can find better looking alternatives for a lot of their stuff even if it doesn't have as much detail. There's some outliers though. I do really love how their trolls in AoS look.
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>>97627895
>You can find better looking alternatives for a lot of their stuff even if it doesn't have as much detail.
People always say that but fold when I ask for examples. Not asking in bad faith or anything, I'm genuinely interested.
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Recently MTO Bjorn, fully metal vehicles are scary, feels like painting a brick.
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>>97627835
>there's a reason why scale modelers always comment on how nice GW kits are when they try them out
That's a bit wrong. A lot of scale modellers (me included) get surprised by how nice modern Citadel kits are, but that doesn't meant they are somehow great. Citadel stuff is slightly above average, yes, but they do ask for a premium price.
Compared to say modern Takom, Meng, Hasegawa, MiniArt (and others) kits, it's still a day and night difference. All these have much, MUCH better and more detailed plastic, usually greater building comfort, way less cleanup, but also extra cool stuff like photo-etched parts, and more. And they ask for either roughly the same price or less.
So yea, Citadel improved a lot over the years, but compared to the current golden scale model standard (let alone top class), they are still years, if not decades, behind.
And that's talking about their modern kits. GW asking for a full price for kits like Devilfish or Land Raider, that's a complete travesty.
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>>97628156
NTA but you mention scaled models of vehicles - in terms of miniatures of people, GW stands ahead. When I tried getting some 1:35 or similar scale models from Tamiya or MiniArt, their guys were rather mediocre quality at best. Rainwear US dudes from MiniArt barely fits and will require serious gap filling while they lack elements for, say, gunbelts so I have to make them myself. If this is "high quality" then I'm afraid to think what is low.
If I don't want yet another WWII guys, my only choices are basically Corvus Belli (which themselves are costly as well).
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>>97623555
So what do you do in that awkward moment when you are done with the mini, but don't like the color scheme as much as you thought?
Like here I like this blue, but in hindsight would have switched the dark and brass on the splinter rifle. Maybe would have left the helmet and one of the pauldrons/knee pads not blue so it can be a tetriary color.
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>>97628156
citadel has good quality, but really shit choices when it comes to things like remembering someone has to paint the kit.
not gundam kits, THOSE are fucking AMAZING, a joy to assemble, and no painted required , AND a mid sized one is about the cost of a GW character model 1/30th the size.
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>>97628171
Huh, how old was that MiniArt kit? Their older ones can be rough, but all the modern ones I have are great. That said, I've never built Americans, I only do Germans, so who knows. That said, I always liked Master Box when it comes to infantry. There's often a Citadel level tier of cleanup needed, yes, but the detail is just awesome.
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>>97628252
No idea, honestly. It's this kit. If you say that Master Box is good, then I will try them next. I just want to do a single diorama in my life.
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>>97628299
Tamiya's also usually good when it comes to infantry, but, as with any other brand, it often comes down to that specific kit, so research if beforehand. If you are buying locally, make sure it's not some ancient kit, too. A lot of small local stores sell shit that's older than most of the 4chan's userbase, and the quality is often not great.
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New shark transfers from ebay, absolutely do recommend. Repulsor and Astartes technical rumbling on, a few recent assault intercessors in very old hats.
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>>97628306
You can probably just paint over it, especially if it's just one of a batch, just keep painting over it until you get a scheme you're happy with, do the rest of the squad/army/whatever and then come back and strip it if you still care
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>>97627947
I find Oathmark Elves, Dorfs and orcs look a lot better even if there's limited choice. Mantic undead are incredibly aesthetic and soulful. The problem with using proxies for Warhammer is that it just has so many units. I feel like most wargames just don't have that sort of variety, which is a blessing and curse for them really.
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>>97627947
Depends on what you want to compare
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>>97628171
>When I tried getting some 1:35 or similar scale models from Tamiya or MiniArt, their guys were rather mediocre quality at best
You prob picked up a 20yo old kit, you need to check scalemates and see when it was tooled
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>>97627947
>>97628629
Oh also didn't even think to mention humans because there are so many goddamn options for good human minis out there. Victrix and Perry for historical, northstar for fantasy and you could probably kitbash some boltgun minis with sci-fi bits for imperial guard. Stargrave kits make for great mechanicus infantry as well. I think basically all forms of infantry can be covered, and then you can save money to spend on the big GW monsters and vehicles, which I think GW probably does the best. I've never bought any big models from other companies, so I'm not sure how they are.
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>>97625654
>>97625697
Nice job! I love all the little chipping and battle damage your BTs have. Makes me want to improve and have mine look that good one day.
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I love the mutie, but fucking hell this sculpt is dogshit. I've got my work cut out for me just dealing with mould lines and cracks.
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>>97628252
Is that a rear handgrip, installed on the foregrip in reverse to make a donggrip? Oh baby, you don't know how much I love this one specific detail.
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Painting add adhd etc
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>>97631263
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I might actually get around to priming this tonight
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>>97631780
There are a multitude of reasons why I would like to know generally how long something takes to ship
BitzBarn is the only US based one I know of, and they don't have much. Do you know of others? EBay is generally more expensive
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Damn these are some nice bases
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>>97632345
I was going to comment how futuristic hoverboard raiders flying over some meadow with flowers is a stupid contrast but I'm so distracted by their lack of shoes that I'm going to complain about that too. seriously what the fuck. give them some space skateboard shoes or something.
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>>97632645
>futuristic hoverboard raiders flying over some meadow with flowers is a stupid contrast
YOU'RE stupid
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>>97627570
i use a super glue called Kraftprotz by a company named Arka. I use the Ultra Liquid formula, it's the same consistency as Tamiya's extra thin plastic cement except it's super glue. dries fast and holds well
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Still a wip
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>>97633630
Samefag. Also built the display cabinet and installed led lighting
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So I was looking for a color scheme for my new army and I found this. What color would you say this this body is? Like plum or wine kinda purple? Any advice on how to get this on a model myself?These captchas are getting retarded
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>>97633675
Dark burgundy maybe?
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>>97633689
>>97633675
AK Violet Red also fits. Overall, check magenta and dark red colors or mix your own. You don't need to follow that shade in 100% and there is always matter of other colors around and primer.
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>>97633690
>>97633698
Ya im gonna be experimenting a fair bit thats for sure.
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>>97633654
You must have 0 friend I think it looks great.
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Okay, varnish dried overnight so I put my scratchbuild project together and did some quick photos with phone (real photoshoot will come later, it takes some time). I would like to express again my thanks for all advices, opinions and suggestions provided so far over last two months I was making this guy. I have to figure out some name for him and backstory. I love you, /wip/, no homo.
By the way, when I usually paint, photoshoot and upload gallery to my small private site, I often post link to it on /m/. Would it be okay to post it here as well?
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>>97633779
I like it a lot, looks great! The edge highlighs don't look off and the colors you've picked work well. Honestly my only gripe is the oversized rivets but it's not that big of a deal.
>Would it be okay to post it here as well?
I don't think it's a rulebreak so it should be fine, I think?
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Test Terminator. First marine ive painted in years. Not sure about the powerfist. I wanted to contrast the purple with a green glow, like radium, but it might be a too much.
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>>97633794
Profile shot
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>>97633789
>>97633791
Nice to hear. Color scheme was inspired by Hojo clan colors, I think that looking at historical combinations really helps sometimes. Rivets sure are big but now that I look at them, they could pass as something similar to those bolts on Space Marines shoulders on older armors, in-lore they were mount points for ad-hoc extra armor I guess.
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Fun experiment
I feel like hes missing something
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>>97633953
Probably
Onto the next
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>>97634028
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>>97633810
>>97633798
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>>97634339
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>>97633794
>>97633798
It does just look like green fingers, though it's still cool.
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>>97623676
appreciate the effort, also I know this color scheme reminded me of something.
>>97623555
Anyone have a good recommendation set for general medieval/fantassy wargame terrain? Just finished my medieval army, dont have any Terrain. Just basics, dont need to get anything fancy. I would think maybe 2 feilds representing rough terrain, one building, and a wall is probably a baseline? im not sure.
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>>97628902
Thanks man, you should definitely give weathering a go, it's essentially easier and in my opinion creates more visual interest than classic edge highlighting etc. My advice is to take it slow and not over do it- for example on that lt I feel I could have dialed back on a couple of spots but it is what it is
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>>97633810
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>>97634357
Glad you like him
I think hes done
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>>97633927
I like it. reminds me of that one weird french animation studio that did one of the Matrix shorts.. think also Aeon flux? there was another sci-fi short that I cant remember. Maybe its something else. Gaunt and bold.
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What is the secret for wet transparent cloth? Do i need to keep glazing off white and skintone forever or something?
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Finally got around to converting Radukar.
Idea is to run him as a Wolf Guard Battle Leader on a Thunderwolf, equipped with a power fist and a storm shield.
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>>97635183
The Radukar kit is pretty sweet. Used some parts from his little minions to spruce up another conversion.
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>>97634339
lol
>>97634540
I was thinking that too, Maybe ill try to up the glow effect a bit and see if it creates the look I wanted
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>>97633794
wtf you can equip Terminators with Shining Finger now?
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All i did was paint today forgort 2 do choores
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>>97634339
Virgin samurai:
>eyes always on the ground in submissive way
>bow to his Emperor as humble subject
>his Emperor is some weak dude in funny hat dominated by his Shogun
>easily defeated by guns
>wear armor that can barely stop a bullet
>thin limbs from eating rice all day
>actually cannot cut plate armor in half
>constantly concerned with his honor
>commit seppuku to clean his shame by death
Chad Space Marine:
>eyes always on the enemy, asserting dominance
>fought side by side with his Emperor as equals
>his Emperor is undying abomination on the way to godhood
>have ALL the guns
>wear huge terminator armor that can easily stop a rocket missile
>huge limbs from eating literal concrete
>cuts ceramite armor in single swing with ease
>kill alien, mutant and heretic and don't give a single fuck
>even in death he still serve with pride
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Well here's my build/paint progress for February. This is for a Black templar army by the end of the year for my new years hobby resolution.
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>>97636379
>>97636363
I see your jizz board is starting to come together.
What's the deal with the little snap together block things?
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>>97637265
they're a children's toy I got for cheap off Amazon. thinking of using them as modular terrain. might do up some as sheet metal and make up some pillar/supports out of some metal thingies I found.
wanted to try and make modular catwalk sections. but they'd work as duck boards/ramps for trenches as well
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Here's one of the two model's I've finished so far this year.
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>>97634339
Fucking supurb work anon.
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>>97633675
Welp painted my first ever mini. Did not come out like I hoped. Dont like the gun, head is a bit to shiny, messy stupid tiny old guardian. But worst of all the color. Its not at all what I wanted. I started with an ULTRA dark purple and mixed some bright red. it ended up like this. Guess I need a mix of even more red? Anyone else have any thoughts or suggestions. He looks better from standing up and not so close and hes my first real shot at Eldar. Dont wanna try on my coller models like my wraiths and banshees till I at least have the color scheme down.
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>>97637764
Those wraithguards look like a dark purple or mulberry color with some thin layering of thinned down red afterwards. Yours is a bit light, so I would add more dark purple. Then thin down your red to watery and layer it onto the higher areas.
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Started blocking in some colors on my custom ork dragoon thing, not too sure about the color balance, right now it's kind of top/bottom where the rest of the crew splits the browns and reds up more so I'll probably darken the pants, brighten the torso, add some brown freehand designs to the cloak and maybe do the helmet metallic instead of the red I had initially planned
The mount's on hold until I get a larger base for it, with the extended neck and the ork on top it's not particularly stable with just the one it's sculpted onto
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Finished this as my February model.
I still don't love the face, it's a little flat, but overall it looks okay I think.
I have some other partially finished models too, I just didn't wrap them up in time.
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Other update, I took that practice elf and because of the last picture I took that had some strong directional lighting, I decided to try and do some more dynamic lighting with self-shadows for the first time. This did totally change the light direction in the zenithal so everything non-skin is light from the opposite direction so that makes it look a little incongruent right now with the hair not shading dark like the face is, but I am happy with where this is going so far, haven't done too much more work on the arms skin though other than roughing in the new highlight direction.
The skin recipe is really simple so coming back to it to blend and change things was pretty easy.
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>>97637873
It's such an easy thing to fix on GW's end too. I don't know why they do this. I think some older tau models even do it. With clamshell parts like this any inset details can just be molded separately and trapped as captive inserts, zero mold lines or gaps visible. GW telling me they don't have space for 2 tiny extra parts in their 70 dollar kit with 2 plastic sprues? Maybe make the giant rock base a tiny bit smaller and fix the damned model.
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My first ever fully painted mini, r8 and h8
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early wip in progress
the glossy primer really looks shit
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>>97623641
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>>97638918
>yellows and browns and then lightly drybrushed grey?
>>>
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>>97638468
Of course, it is easy to fix. Just like making round parts (like cannons) in one piece, or having perforated stuff (like exhausts or gun barrels) actually perforated. You know, what scale model companies have been doing for decades at this point.
But why would GW do that? We'll buy it anyway, like suckers we are. And we'll pay a premium, too.
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>>97638458
Looks nice.
A very artsy style, not photorealistic, but it's well thought out and executed to give the effect of glossy, pale blue-indigo skin.
Only gripe is that because you're loading the brush up so much, some of the paint has unfortunate textures that it's left on the model (though depending on quality that could just be the model), notably around the cheeks, under the brow ridge, and the shoulder.
Still, in a less austere light those won't be so obvious, and the overall piece is great.
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>>97638915
Yep. Mournfang brown, then doombull brown, then averland sunset (more randomly applied) all while pretty wet. Once dry, drybrush ushabti bone. The ones on the left have that final drybrush, the right don't.
>>97639130
Thanks anon. I actually broke a tip off one because the model fell and the sword got caught in my shirt and bent. Brittle resin swords I guess.
>>97638923
Yeah, I really like yellow for special weapons and on the sternguard.
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Okay, made small (28 pics) gallery of my scratchbuilt mecha (named "Akaitsuki" now) so, since one anon said its okay to post link, I share it here as well as on /m/: https://sabi-sif.mb4.pl/gunpla-mg-rg-other/30mm-eexm-17j-akaitsuki-cus tom/
Bonus points for recognizing the pose.
To be honest, I feel somewhat confused right now - after two months of working on same project, I feel a bit empty after it is finished. No idea if it would be more reasonable idea to take another big one, smaller one or give myself a few days break before going back to painting something.
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Probably should have left his eyes unpainted but fuck it.
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>>97639910
That's Farsights pose, right? Again, this guy turned out great, I'm happy I was here to see the process. I remember you posting some of those girl robots here before, too.
>I feel a bit empty after it is finished.
This happens to me after a bigger projects as well. I usually do something relatively small next to take my mind off of it.
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>>97634905
>>97634326
Extremely kino, I'm jelly
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>>97640076
Yeah, Farsight pose from his box art, only maybe GW have it at different angle. And some poor dude makes up for tactical rock (he got better).
I'm surprised someone remembers my plastic girls, too. I didn't post their whole pics, whoever but I remember that some people really liked the sponge painted belly. Fun related fact - Vallejo water imitation ("Diorama FX water" if I recall correctly), when thinned a bit with water and applied over surface like paint, makes up for interesting "rubber" effect. Not that I plan to make models looking like wearing latex bodysuits, haha, that would be too lewd, right?
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>>97640218
coomer minis are great, I don't care
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Missed a week, was trying to force myself to atleast paint every Sunday to get back in the habit. I’m back though and still trying. Almost finished basing the greens, taking a little break. Looking forward to starting highlights, just slopping on solid colors is getting boring. Still no idea what I’m gonna do with the staff and the bare wooden branches coming off his head and back.
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Almost finished these guys. Just need to highlight the heads, do some battle damages, then basing.
Anything I can add/change?
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>>97640491
I was looking for ideas for fitting name and recalled that in Knights of Sidonia (I love Nihei works), main character machine full name was "Type 17 Garde Shiratsuki Remodeled Ver. Tsugumori". "Shiratsuki" means "white moon" hence "Akaitsuki" aka "red moon" (by the way, "Tsugumori" is written with signs for "protection" and "succession" or "legacy" and thus it's "Guardian of the Heritage"). Fitting for a machine that is already pretty weeb.
Initially I intended to draw inspirations both from Tau battlesuits and Infinity's PanO TAGs, I was not looking at Gundams, sorry. Since legs (except feet) and torso were taken from Bandai 30MM series (optional parts) it's not like I had complete freedom in design, there is also limit on my skills with scratchbuilding (fortunately, they slowly grow).
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>>97640682
It does kinda look like that dosent it? Bright work light was washing it out a lot I guess.
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>>97640766
>>97640718
Lmao yes, I posed him like that. I might tilt his head to make him look like he's enjoying the stroll.
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>>97640883
Obviously I'm a moron and forgot the pic.
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>need new shade of color for my own triad
>go to store and find color I think should be a good match
>it wasn't
I FUCKING HATE BLUES, GREENS AND BROWNS SO MUCH. Never had an issue with reds, they're so easy and fun to use.
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>>97639910
Wonderful work. Thank you for sharing it with us. It's heartening and inspiring to see this much love put into a project. I hope you enjoy a well-deserved rest (or hit the ground running, if you feel like it!) while feeling out what you'd like to work on next.
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>>97640905
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Anybody use acrylics that aren't meant for miniature painters for painting glued sand?
Anything I should be aware of when getting such paints?
I saw "heavy body" and "soft body" acrylics and apparently heavy body acrylics are meant to preserve brush strokes.
This will not matter if you water the paints down to inks, right?
I'm looking to get a generic brown dirt colored base with bone drybrushing to highlight the painted sands.
I have been looking at Dick Van Dyke Brown and/or Raw Umber and Unbleached Titanium and/or parchment paints for the basic brown sand with bone drybrushing.
I'm keeping my options to industry standard paint color staples like the above mentioned.
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>>97641362
Those refer to different properties of the mediums. You are right it might not matter, though some mediums fall apart when thinned too much. Be aware that "fine art" doesn't necessarily mean "good quality." I haven't tried so many fine art brands, but I have tried a lot of cr*ft acrylics. They range from absolute dogshit to surprisingly usable.
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>>97641487
>mix the paint with glue and sand, just add a little water.
I can try that.
>>97641516
I understand that fine art doesn't mean it is a good quality paint.
What surprisingly usable specific paints did you get?
Looking for a brown for dirt colour and a bone for drybrushing if you don't mind.
Admittedly I have looked at Liquitex's acrylic paints but the supposed "satin finish" kind of made me reconsider them.
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>>97641738
if you're just doing bases or scenic stuff, you could look all the way down at something like Apple Barrel paints if it's just a base coat + dry brush. for my current bases, i've been using a mixture of pva glue, cornstarch(basically sand), water, and a dab of amazon basics acrylic paint. with all the additives, i don't think the quality of the acrylic paint matter all that much.
and a satin finish might not be too bad if you want a wet mud kind of look.
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>>97638839
I am wondering if I should matte varnish before continuing because I can't see shit while painting under the lamps
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>>97641738
Folk Art has been decent while Apple Barrel has been the worst and has a really weird smell to it, probably bittering agents added to keep kids from drinking it. Folk Art has a longer drying time compared to Vallejo or Reaper.
Folk Art metallics remind me very much of some of the GW metallics from the 2000s because of the size of the metallic flakes. I don't know if this could be considered a good thing, however.
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Finally had some time to paint today so I've been basecoating these two.
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>>97637889
>plastic spoon
woah there, that's a forbidden gunpla technique
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>>97637764
>. I started with an ULTRA dark purple and mixed some bright red. it ended up like this.
By the look of it you made your base colour that, and then added white to create the highlight colour. Which ended up desaturating it into the not so red result you got. Add a bright, primary red to make your highlight instead (on top of the red you added to adjust your starting point), with the final highlights being almost purely that red, and you'll end up much closer.
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>>97642280
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>>97642741
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>>97642735
"craft paint" triggers anons' PTSD about some specific autist
>>97643034
the "elmers glue all" at the hardware store is slightly different than the "school glue" but I'm not totally sure how. all I get on it are slop articles.
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>thought i had a spray can of glossy varnish
>it was actually satin
>all this time what i thought was a glossy finish was just me applying too much varnish
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>>97643903
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>>97644104
it's a great use for them. I also have a truly foul smelling container of combined leftover washes I use on terrain
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>>97644104
everyone does as is proper
>>97644151
i like your diorama
black paper hawk is going down but who was the phone who dunnit
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>>97644151
>nice diorama
>wait a minute
>enhance
>zoom
is that a wolf head on an imperial knight? hmmmmmm
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>>97644706
The fronts of my knights
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>>97644151
Did the Panzees shoot that Thunderhawk and make it explode, or is it desperately trying to stay aloft after barely surviving passage through the toxic jungle?
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Do you guys prefer superglue or watered-down PVA glue for sealing up cork board bits? I've done both but I'm leaning towards going back to superglue, since I mainly use cork board for concrete and superglue has the double-edged sword of smoothing out tiny gaps and holes.
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>>97625697
>>97618400
They look great anon. Where did you get the rivets and what sizes did you use?
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Primed some tards today so I can focus on them later. Tried out some runelord brass and I'm not fond of using it for spray applications. Hoping to get back to my forgefiend tonight.
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>make vital part of the rifle so small that it's barely visible without watchmaker magnifying glass
>...but leave huge gaps in main body to fill
Either scale models infantry are made for literal autists or MiniArt is particularly shitty company. It's not even very old kit, 2006 or something.
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>>97645640
everyone says I'm autistic for thinking this but I can't stand the riptide because it doesn't follow the size conventions for anime robots that tau is supposed to be based on. you can't just have gundam and gundam (huge) without some other gimmick like transforming or having no legs.
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Almost ready to start playtesting my zombie skirmish game
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>>97645983
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>>97624680
Nice weathering. Leather can be a lot of fun, and you can incorporate some little scuffs or lines in a different color for a little more visual interest if you want. Like on your coat there a little bit of yellow ochre in a couple of the heavier weathered parts, or very light use of a dark purple in some heavy shadows.
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>>97646007
Are these for the Maximum Overdrive skirmish game?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PiZHNw1MtzI
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>>97646007
i like the cars and would use them in any futuristic setting
20 something years ago i bought a little toy rabbit from local toy store and the pretty cleck girl asked me if it was for my daughter, i told her it was unit filler for my goblin army
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>>97646511
Based
>>97646582
Cringe
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>>97646591
hey man, i'm just trying to avoid making her too horned up at work thinkin bout those space cacti.
imagine if you were at work and someone came through and told you about how they were about to go off and do something cool, while you're stuck there for another 7 hours, unable to paint up your own goblin rank filler, have some courtesy.
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>>97646582
>>97646591
its still there looking at me