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>>97626264
kek

>>97628070
Mmmmm, tasty resin.

I caved and bought some gooner stls

>>97629849
>gooner stls
based
>bought
cringe

Any recommendations for Necromunda Zone Mortalis terrain files?

>>97629849
>>97630513
cringe

>>97629849
Which ones?

>>97633415
There were a few different artists who currently have their work discounted through one of the major STL vendors. Nothing super bad or unusual, but gooner enough that it'd make people uncomfortable at the gaming table.

Have any of you printed scans of old metal minis?

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>>97635815
Yes, works pretty well. Scans can look super rough on your screen but they're indistinguishable from the real deal when painted.

I am looking for a few classic dwarves like Old Realm Forge's. Anyone know a maker like that?
I only need 2-3 models, like one with a spear or two handed weapon, one with anything ranged and a magic user. For this few I wouldn't want to buy whole units of them from Old Realm Forge.

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>>97635815
Yea they usually come out pretty well
Also yea I do recommend compressing the model sizes on them, anymore than 25-35 mb is usually too much unused data, these models where only so detailed and super high end scanners usually make the file sizes for the meshes way higher than they should be

>>97628070
Before putting in the lights I would have pulled out the turntable and taped off the vents and holes then black primer followed by few layers of mirror paint and do the back of the door as well.

>>97628070
How did you 3d print an entire microwave

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>>97638863
>Extrusion, eh? Nudge nudge! A bit of the old fused deposition modeling, know what I mean? Say no more!
>Is your 'nozzle' 0.4 millimeters? Say no more, say no more! Does it do it overnight? While the wife’s asleep? Nudge nudge! Snap-crackle-pop, out comes a microwave! A 'quick heat,' is it? A bit of 'micro-waving,' eh? Nudge nudge, wink wink, say no more!
>Does it... vibrate? Does it have a 'heated bed,' eh? Nudge nudge! Wink wink! A 'hot end'? I bet it does! I bet it does! A bit of 'support material' for the tricky bits, squire? Know what I mean?

>>97638840
Door is taped, same as the turntable. Rest will get foil taped after the lights are put on the back. No real rush since it works just fine as is.

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How do I dispose of my dirty alcohol that I used to wash my prints?

I have a mercury wash and cure station and I've been using the plastic tub it comes with. reddit and the internet would tell me to "dispose of it properly at my nearest waste management plant" or some shit but I'm thinking I can just dump it in the vacant lot full of weeds behind my house.

My last print

>>97628070
Is this some kind of meme? do you microwave your prints to cure them or something? why not just use a curing station or UV light box?

>>97635815
yes. I usually give them a look over before printing, see if there are any noticable flaws or scanner resulpts. Usually they are fine.
I''ve even scanned some old sculpts myself, and some stuff that's just OOP. Prepping for a good scan and the cleanup afterwards, at least with my diy setup, can get tedious, but it's surprisingly rewarding.

>>97642309
Transfer the dirty alchohol to a 5 gallon bucket, take it to your municipal hazardous waste disposal facility and tell them what's in it.
If you are lazy, you can sit the uncovered bucket in the sun to let the alchohol evaporate, which will leave you with a hazardous resin mush that you'll still have to take yo hazardous waste disposal.
Of you just dump it, you're just adding it to the local water supply and might as well drink it straight from the wash and cure station.

>>97642309
burn it, outside.

>>97642357
I think I'm gonna go with option B but either scoop out the mush and leave it in the sun for a few days to let it cure then dump it. ty

has anyone printed a scan from Strange Dark Place and if so what was the quality like? is it better than the quality you see in most scans or was it noticeably better?

Does paint help cover up the layer lines from a FDM printer? Does anyone here have any mini's that were made with a FDM printer?

>>97642548
don't scoop it out, let it settle then set your jar in the sun to cure the mush, then pull out the solid remains, reuse alcohol after.

>>97642738
I'm not using a glass jar, I use a platic bin with a snap-on lid. I'm letting it settle right now, should I leave it in direct sun anyway? The solidified resin at the bottom won't get stuck, will it?

>>97642738
I got 2 wash buckets with the spinny thing for my cure station. For my qst wash bucket should I dump into a jar and then do this or if just set in sun it will fuck up the spinner?

>>97642887
if it's clear plastic I don't see why not.
>>97642920
if you can dump it all out without leaving gunk behind I also don't see why not.

I've always used the two jar method, one "dirty" and one "clean" then a plastic container for the hot water bath between and after jars. Personally I think wash/cure stations are a waste of money, if they didn't cost as much or more than a printer, sure, but they're retarded expensive considering the disparity of utility between them and the printer.

How do we make mechanical assemblies?

>>97642952
The one thing to remember about clear plastic is it's plastic, so if you get REALLY hot sunny days you could cause melting or deformation, and in general you're shortening the lifespan of the container thanks to the UV.

You can get a giant glass cookie/pasta jar off Amazon for like 15 quid/20 bucks, there's no reason to use anything else.

>>97643008
>buy an empty jar
What?? Use a jar from something you've bought like sauerkraut, pickled eggs or pasta sauce

>>97642551
i've posted a couple of them. back in the last thread check the darkwater prints

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moving my shit to a big drive

>>97642952
I got mine with my printer 2nd hand so practically free. Added a second bucket to be dip first first get most of gunk before a proper wash. The whirling effect is nice to really clean them up

I think ill just dump into a glass jar when it gets too gross and just cure that


Including the printer, station and gear, bucket, resin and ipa ive spent 200. Mars 3 pro and I guess its a 2nd Gen cure station.

>>97643140
>The whirling effect is nice to really clean them up
Just swirl the jar

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Im starting to run out of things to print anons. I spent weeks printing nonstop, building my army. But i've found all I care for and printed out 90%. Theres close to nothing left to pront.

I've been collecting some STLs for awhile, and I always opted to get the non-supported versions (smaller filesize). Is auto support software good or did I fuck myself over?

>>97646040
Why stop at one army? Hell why even stop at one game?

>>97646378
Mostly just cause I dont really care about other armies/games. Its another set of rules/characters to learn, things to paint, and STL's to acquire. Although I guess I could spec into terrain if I really cared, sanding down the support scars are going to be a bitch for that though

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>>97646760
Make gooner statutes so your army can have some hoes.

>>97646760
Still new to 40K I see, don't worry you'll get burnt out when the next edition renders your army unplayable and then rather than redo it or start a new one you'll find yourself switching to either smaller specialist games from GW (epic/necromunda/kill team/blood bowl) or a game from an entirely different company (likely battletech for the stability, rules largely unchanged in 40 years).
If/when you do switch you'll find that a lower modell count (anywhere from 4 min to 30 max) means you can dip your toe in ALL the options for either one game, or a little bit for each game, and still come out with less model investment than a single 40k army.

about to finish a series of long prints and I don't know what to print next. feels wasteful to let the machine idle but I'm also printing far faster than I'm able to paint.

After many issues with first layer ripples I've finally got my z-offset nailed down, I was off by 0.01 fucking millimetres.

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/r/equesting pics of prints done with Anycubic Photon Mono 4. from what I've seen in archive and utube the quality is suspiciously great for the price even tho it's an "old" starter printer. and names of used resins of course.

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>>97655906
It is great, with antialiasing on of course and fine tune your settings for thinner layers as it can handle them.
this is 6mm scale, used anycubic standard clear.

Anybody ever used an Etsy 3d printing service?
What keywords should I look out for? Do they generally just print anything a person requests they do for a fee?

What are the general metrics of which they charge for?

And does anybody know of any good 3D printing Etsy services in Canada speaking from experience?

Pics can help illustrate authenticity.

>>97658238
Buying from Etsy and having bullshit troubles with the prints I got like being scaled wrong is the entire fucking reason I bought my own printer to begin with.
It is cheaper, easier and faster in the long run.
even if you only ever plan to print 30 or fewer 28mm minis it is cheaper, easier and faster to just get your own printer.

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>>97658238
>>97658312
The minis on the left amd right are what I was ordering (a set of 16) the center mini is the size I wanted them (28mm scale, bog fucking standard) first time the seller sends me 32 of the midgets on the left, second time 16 of the giants on the right, then refused to even try a third time accusing me of milking for free replacements (I offered to return the failures).
As you can see I did make them work, the midgets as a smaller scale mirror match for teaching the game with a custom small board, the giants as a female ultramarines theme to explain their ridiculous size.

>>97658312
Alright then.
For a beginner into 40k mostly Imperial Guard, and a total beginner to 3D printing what resin printer should I get?
The most idiot proof just works low maintenance one if possible too.

>>97658654
the photon mono 4 mentioned above is high quality, cheap and you'll never need anything different. Though be aware that after a few years some parts may need to be replaced, but it's no harder than building a PC to do that.

>>97658664
Thanks I checked above.
Any significant differences between the regular and ultra version and lastly any information I should be wary of before buying it?
Best "hard plastic grey" resin?

>>97658716
I dont know the ultra but i know the standard and I don't see any print lines with antialiasing, so who needs more than that?
And no resin will pass for plastic, so clear is best for curing purposes.
Use the free Lychee slicer, make sure to tune your layer height settings, there will be youtube videos on this, exposure times and such are listed on the bottles of resin.

>>97658716
>>97658754
Oh also get on telegram and find a channel/group for 40k stl's and then keep looking for a guardsmen specific channel, telegrams search for channels is fucked so you may be at it awhile, but once you have one you're good to go.

Does anyone else just watch their FDM printer while it's working entranced by the process? Not an entire ten hour cycle mind you, but I can lose 30 minutes doing so easy.

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Like most people i assume i cant afford the prusa ht90 even if it is the coolest looking 3d printer.
Any reason i should not get the core L over the equivelent bambu or whatever chinese brand is hot right now? I like the open source commitment and they seem to be just as good as anything else in that class.

>>97658754
>>97658760
Thanks!
One more thing.
How much maintenance on my end will this printer require?
I mean like cleanup that isn't the supports for the prints.
I vaguely remember something about nozzles. It isn't that big of a problem?
Are Air purifiers recommended as well too?

Hey frens.
My bro printed me a necron warrior. He's scuffed as hell, but I can see the potential. the idea of owning my own Biotransference furnace is giving me an incredible erection.
What printer should I buy?
I want to print with all plastics, not just the simple ones.
As cheap as possible I'm a poorfag.

>>97659877
nozzles are the other kind of printer.

>>97659877
if you've got air worries, open a window when it's running.
For cleaning you'll want either a well lit windowsill (and a pice of cardboard to put your prints on at it) or a UV flashlight (USB rechargeable), you'll also need a couple glass jars to fill with Isopropyl Alcohol for a two step rinse clean after printing. Swirl the prints in jar 1 for a minute, then take them out and shake off excess alcohol and do the same with jar 2, label them so you can tell which is which until they've been used awhile. remove supports in hot water BEFORE you cure the prints further with UV flashlight or windowsill sunlight.

any keyword recommendations for flight stand scenery on yeggi, like a tree that a stand can slot into to high it on the base.