selfishly i started this thread to ask for board recommendations..
I am looking for a fun board in 2-4ft conditions. I have come to the realisation I have too many excuses to go out above that size and should get a board suited to what I actually surf. I was something cruisy, was thinking 6'8ish range that can paddle but also duck dive. I have gone from minimal to a 6'6 but 3" thick beefy board, a 6'8 thinner board (by far my best board rip) and now a 6'4 board closer to a short board (I am 6'3). Where to from here? I don't see myself doing sharp hacks or anything high performance, but maybe some round houses and floaters..

Hola. This is by the way the third surf general, not the second.

Also, could you link it to the old?

Round houses and floaters are "high-performance" if you want to, depending on your style (long fucking forgotten thing, owing to the sportification of surfing)

>2-4 feet

Wave size or swell size? If wave size, go for a groveller, thick board but short length, to ride the foam.

In surfing, physical condition is mostly irrelevant to your mental condition; no matter how well-prepared your body is, there is one factor you need to go over that is inevtable and that is, sitting comfortably out the back and that only comes with doing it often enough.

>>237182
Old thread is linked. I missed #1 guess it was a prelude.
Idk by swell or surf but say chest to overhead. Anywhere from 2ft - 8ft faces.
I can sit out there and am comfy in the surf just bigger days spots I'd be comfy catching waves, so would 200 of my best friends. Smaller days I can go to quieter beachies.
Thick but short, how short and thick? Also do you mean to ride the foam as in to get plough through mushy close out sections?
Roundhouse as in I do a shitty turn back to the pocket not some powerful stuff and floaters off small end sections I'm not launching a float to flat on an 8 face..

>>237183
No, kek, I meant link the old TO the new.

>>237183
>ride the foam as in to get plough through mushy close out sections?

Exactly

Generally, you want a groveller about a foot shorter than your go-to board and thicker than your go-to board. They are especially designed for this, to play in the surf.

File: 87676476.jpg (45.1 KB)

Rented a foamie for my next two weeks of vacation.

Wish me luck :)

>>237405
shred the gnar anon

File: apu angry.jpg (23.5 KB)

HOW DO I STOP THE CHAFING (CHEST/TITS)
on a foamie if that matters

>>237740
hire a dominatrix to toughen up your skin or wear a shirt or rashie

How long are you guys able to surf before becoming too exhausted to pop up? For me it's 3 hours or so

>>238160
Depends on conditions and how often I am catching waves. A busy session after 2-3 hrs my arms go and I struggle to paddle. I get a bit autistic with my paddling, small days I still paddle hard for the fitness, hold my breathe between duck dives, always stretching that area before and after surf etc.

File: Cursed-wojak-meme-5.png (185.5 KB)

>be city with big ass coastline
>have exactly two spots that don't close out religiously
>both are crowded as fuck 24/7

Man Perth fucking sucks

maaaaan Perth fucking sucks

File: gatito pequeno.gif (129.7 KB)

Why do I feel like I'm always in people's way
Paddling out or sitting in the line up, and all of a sudden someone is coming at me riding a wave. I try paddling into the wave to get out of his way but it never seems to be enough, he usually bails or wipes out trying to avoid me. Then I feel bad.
Am I doing something wrong or is it their fault? I'm a newfag kook on a foamie btw. Maybe I should stick to the weenie hut junior (broken waves, close to shore) until i git gud?
>>239828
>aussie
How do you wear your harness to keep from falling into the sky while on a surf board? Like how does that even work?

File: lineup.jpg (1.4 MB)

>>239828
Been a winter to watch from the headlands for me..
https://youtu.be/2q5_xjnn30w
>>239978
Because you're probably in their way. But depends how crowded the spot is too. Where would you paddle out and sit in picrel?

>>239981
When I first arrive, probably near the group at the top left. But as I tire I'd go center left so I don't have to paddle as much. My cardio sucks

File: 57472758683.jpg (1.5 MB)

>>239984
>disclaimer this is a random screencap so idk what conditions are really like
But.. based off what you posted, I don't think you should be where the red crosses are. Top left you won't catch anything, will be caught out of position and in peoples way. Other two spots too crowded. I don't think you can read the ocean well enough to be in there. Green left is an option if you can surf insiders, depends on take off. The spot you paddle to second you should start. Catch wide waves and the insiders there. You won't be in anyone's way, will catch far more waves and progress quicker.
It's a strange phenomenon that people just paddle out to join the pack. Once you learn to access the line up properly you'll often see better breaks where no one is. All part of learning to read the ocean.

>>239986
Thank you

File: IMG_5336.jpg (2.1 MB)

>bent fin
How big of a problem is this?
Also, daily reminder to always store your surfboard properly

>>240078
probably fine, plastic fins are kinda avg so not like you're losing high performance, should still function. Can probably be bent back.
>>240013
np I enjoy hearing what others think. It always intrigues me seeing how people analyse the line up. Its a crucial skill to git gud at surfing.

>>236948
>dude OMG i'm surfing just like the COOL BOOMERS from the 60s!!!!
>hey everyone check out my pathetically thin beard, receding hairline, effeminate lack of muscle tone and my epic forehead lines!!!
>I-I-IMMMM GOOONAAA SUUUUURRRRRRRRFFFFFFFF

File: gigachad.jpg (56.3 KB)

Floridafag here, only been surfing for a month, about to try surfing the hurricane, wish me luck anons

>>240583
i hope you're central/north florida and get absolutely barreled my guy - when it doubt grab rail and set the line (remember to look where you want to go)

also remember
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6spBu2XAk4A

How much more danger of a shark attack am I putting myself in by going out at/just before dawn, as opposed to the afternoon? I live in a shark prone area.

>>240659
They feed at dawn and dusk, when the winds are most favorable to surf.

>>240659
You're more likely to die in a car crash on the way to the beach. Don't even think about them.

File: 1732755033875936.jpg (357.2 KB)

>>240583
Update: couldn't even paddle out to the breaks, kept getting swept back, got so exhausted I couldn't even pop up properly on the broken white waves (which also kept wiping me out even at waist deep water).
fuck

>>240865
no one said it was easy mate

>>240865
based and have a crack pilled

Can any of you guys surf decently? Erin swell will be hitting Europe this week

>>240964
I am ok but I am also not paddling out into 20ft swells

anybody in north florida

>>240666
what about in the middle of the night

>>237740

>>237740
forgot to include my message. Wear a rashie and rub Vaseline all of your chest it makes a big difference also keep surfs shorter than 90 mins

>>241153
Space coast here

>>241339
damn, I'm in Duval

File: jacksonville.png (756.4 KB)

>>241343
Sorry to hear that

>>241344
"good" surf here is 1" swells, lol

>>241345
Trust me it's the same throughout the entire state man
I feel lied to, I didn't grow up surfing but surfing was everywhere so I assumed Florida must be good for surfing. Then I actually got into surfing and realized that was total BS.
I'm amazed kelly slater was as good as he is, considering maybe 5% of days out of the year are even possible on a shorter board

>>241346
Sebastian is the only place with waves above waist height, ain't it?

>>241347
Consistently? More or less yeah, but because of this fact the jetty is super packed and probably very localized. I wouldn't really know, I haven't been there myself yet
Are there any good spots up north where you are at anon?

>>241377
in Jax specifically? really just Pillars, in Hanna Park. even then, it's just 2-3 foot, and only during hurricane season when it's too cold to really enjoy. maybe during a hurricane you might get 5-7ft.

>>241379
>5-7ft
it's either 4 ft, 4-6ft, 6ft or 6-8ft

>>241400
I'm not using official notation, I'm giving a more direct estimate.

File: 1300044776986.jpg (10.4 KB)

>>241400
>it's either 4 ft, 4-6ft, 6ft or 6-8ft

Florida sucks don't come here, and we don't need anymore people in the lineup.

shorter waves = longer boards, right? so, for waves around 2', would a 7 or 8 foot board be better

>>241456
no you are wrong but lets okay lets take a second to dissect why.
1. you might want more volume but it depends on the steepness of the wave
2. you referred to "longer boards" and then suggested something in the reddit sizing zone (beyond 5ft 8) this was silly
3. You didn't discuss using soft tops.
With continued practice you can not post gay shit like above :D

>>241481
Duke was a better surfer than you and he never rode anything shorter than maybe 10'

>>241518
Could the duke even do a cutback?

>>241532
he could do it on a 150lb solid paulownia board, at Waimeia.

>>237740
Toughen them nips up until they're scabbed and peeling after. Ask me how I know lmao. Or rash guard like others have suggested.

Btw, check out https://YouTube.com/@shakashreds

Whoa, whoa guys, slow down!! I can't keep track of the thread, I am not used to it having these many replies this close to its OP birthday!

File: giphy-1.gif (818.0 KB)

>>240666
>They feed at dawn and dusk

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8NjUX8HZIFQ&pp=ygUSYXQgZGF3biB0aGV5IHNsZWVw

File: Screenshot_20250902_160410.png (341.1 KB)

>be me, yesterday
>go to sebastian inlet
>waves were gay, breaking on the beach, oh well
>far in the distance, see some big whitewater waves, breaking on what must be a reef or sandbar then traveling for a solid minute before hitting the beach
One of these days, when the wind is moving south/south west, I am going to take my longboard allllll the way out there and alllll the way back and it will be truly epic. Although maybe I should hire a jetski to get me out there so my shoulders don't fall off.

There was a shark attack at my local yesterday. took the guys life. Pretty tragic, was always considered a bit of a sharkey break but I'd never seen one in 20+ years.

Where is a good place to go to learn to surf? I live in a landlocked zone, and plan to travel to learn to surf in the coming spring (post snowboard season) looking for somewhere that is cost effective to spend a month or two learning to surf.

>>242135
What region of the world are you looking at?
Aus can be done cheap. Asian islands are cheap. South America spots can be cheap. Depends how much it costs you to get there etc.

>>242013
he died doing what he loved
>>242135
>>242196 this

how long do you guys surf for? When I was younger I was able to be out for a couple hours now that Im a oldfag (34) I am completely gaped after spending 2 hours in the water. Has anyone here had something similar and improved their fitness?

>>242395
Depends how many waves I am catching. I can burn out in 1 hour or sit around for 3.

>>242395
I'm 22, in okay(ish) shape and I'm pretty much gassed out by the 3 hour mark.
Are you in good shape? Hitting the gym/pool (or, even better, surfing) consistently + good diet will probably improve your stamina quite a bit.

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Anyone here have experience with picrel? Are they worth the money?
I seem to get very tired paddling out, and my popup tends to suffer accordingly

just surf more, i will say doing burpees with your popup improves it

>>244746
just do this
https://youtu.be/lSDi6J1LpGI?si=OzDmKo9uUg12QLmg

Need some help planning a trip to Maui
>>>/trv/2832610

>>244746
no but I've been surfing for a long time and literally its just about pushing through it all. The only thing you can really do is go swimming to improve your fitness or just surf unironically within ~ a year you'll notice you can stay out a lot longer

what are the best surf spots in Florida, and what is the best type of board for me in Florida?

>>247632
>surf spots in Florida
I can only speak to the Space Coast, but it's really all the same around here. We don't have reefs or anything, it's all beachbreaks. If you go to Satellite Beach, there is coquina rock which holds the sand out a bit and can improve things a little.
Other than that, Sebastian Inlet is the only spot that can really hold a big swell well.
>what is the best type of board for me in Florida?
Outside of a hurricane and maybe cold fronts, our waves are tiny and lack power. Longboard or a log.

File: 0d8c99ae8a887b1e7699e51184a33895-1277497382.jpg (43.2 KB)

any other east coast anons feeling like picrel these past few weeks

>>247652
Anastasia Formation, google it. This anon isn't wrong, it's sebastian, satelite, daytona, st augstine and jax - south is shit; more north just go to obx

>>247632
log, funshape, or groveler(oversized fishy at leanest) (if you're asking this question a shortboard isn't for you)

Once the wax is on nobody will notice my shoddy repairs? Right?

>>244746
I was retarded enough to buy this, it’s a scam. Go look at surf simply or OMBE surf for free videos, I forgot which but one has videos on yoga and home workouts. Realistically just swim on the days you can’t surf and surf as much as possible.

>>248082
The nate florence has all you need imo.
I put a resistance band on my door for the cable pull ones. Do double arm pull downs, single arm pull downs, butterfly thing on stomach then finish with supermans. Pick reasonable reps, do 3 sets a coupe times a week and in a month and you'll certainly notice the difference in the water.

>>248082
>surf simply or OMBE

The world is really a smaller place...

>>242264
no he didnt

>>248117
this is what we call 'empty platitudes' aka
lip service

>>248117
>>248118
you guys are pussy, dying by shark although traumatic you got taken out surfing, can't get much better than that - would you rather rot away like an old bitch

>>248172
>would you rather rot away like an old bitch
Yes after a long life of surfing would be ideal.

Should my second surfboard be a big (6ft 8in) fish or a longboard?
I am able to stand up reliably on my foamie, now I want to work on my turns. I live in an area (florida) where the waves are like a foot tall most of the time

>>248867
A nice chunky 6'8 maybe with some rounded rails, decent width (21"+) and maybe 2.5" thick+ type thing could go well. I assume 1ft is at least a 2ft face.. if you drop too much volume you probably will struggle more than its worth to catch waves.

>>248172
>Here's some tedious tax audit paperwork you have to do that will take all day every day for weeks. You have to do it all by (date).
>Ack. LMAO NO I DON'T

Surfed for the first time in my life yesterday and did it again today. At the end of the day I felt like I had done something meaningful for the first time in a long time. I don't know if I'll do it more often but it was memorable, I didn't expect to be able to stand up on the board for almost every wave. Wingfoil is easier and comfier because you have to paddle less, but surf is more epic I think
/blog

>>250170
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4uwtqRBE4Kk

>>250170
its a beautiful sport makes you feel like a king and all the most annoying minorities cant swim or they allergic to water

>>250369
Imagine living in a world where you forget Brazilians exist, must be nice

>>250372
lol true there aren't many brazzos where I am (south island NZ). I forgot about the last time I was on the gold coast and it was like a writhing mass of brazzos.

Surfing a spot tomorrow I haven't really surfed when properly breaking and shitting my pants. I shouldn't, but I am.

>>250509
plz be nazare

>>250546
kek, no, why? What if it isn't Nazaré? It was a quite average reef break, but I have a fixative mindset and quite strong self-suggestion trips

File: 1737001831651109.png (286.4 KB)

I had a good surf this past weekend my first in a while

Bought my first real hard-top board today, 9ft longboard. Hopefully will not look like such a kook by being on a foamie anymore. Feels good man

>>250667
>It was a quite average reef break

oh is that all.

>>251042
Yeah, why?

>>251419
because I would like to have one of those around but I don't

Looking to get back into surfing at almost 29 after a 10 year break. I am 10kg heavier than I used to be and that will probably be an issue, but my mobility is good. Conditioning to be seen. I was at the beach this past weekend but the sea was totally flat. I tested my pop up on the ground and it's decent, it's balance that's to be seen.

Should I even be thinking about a shorter board after ~three months (surfing every single day)

>>253139
probably not unless its like mal to mid length

File: nazare.png (583.5 KB)

I just saw nazare highlights for the first time. one of the coolest things Ive ever seen

loved it. obsessed. wipeouts were nuts

>>250674
Happy for you plz keep it up.
>>251009
Good work you can migrate off those reasonable quickly with practice
>>253062
Keep it up the weight causes issues but if you shred it you'll rip quickly

>>253601
based motivator

>surfing twice a day
>Beginner but making progress
>Get my shit rocked by overhead waves
>Develop fear of waves, hard to commit to anything more than chest-high
>Move back home away from beach for like 8 months
>Move to hawaii and trying to get back into it
>Out of shape
>Fear of rocks after cutting my feet up first day (old surfing grounds was sandbar)
How do I get back into this and stop being a pussy? I can paddle my old board but haven't caught a clean wave yet, and worry all my skill is gone

>>253705
Next bigger day just paddle out at high tide, be very patient, then when you spot your wave 100% commit and paddle as hard as you can. You'll 99% likely catch it fine and realise it's all in your head.

Here there has been 5 shark attacks in the last two days. Three bitten, two bumped off their boards. This is after that guy died earlier this summer. The time to cull was yesterday.

File: Screenshot_20260121-124942.png (2.8 MB)

>>253731
>Be very patient
This was the key, thanks anon. I've been missing my first wave of the session and then going for worse and worse waves that come in trying to catch anything. Or worse, trying to catch clean waves when I know I'm out of position for them and getting discouraged. Today I made a point of sitting on the beach for longer, and not paddling for anything that wasn't perfect. Got a few that I just knew were mine and caught them as you said. Not the longest rides, but solid takeoffs. Now I know I might be a bit rusty, but I can still surf

>>253139
Ymmv but when I started and was surfing everyday I ditched the longboard after a month and got a 7'6 minimal which I kept for a year before I went down to a 6'6 extra wide and thick surfboard. Didn't go for a smaller board until you can paddle your current one like a rocket, catch 90% of the waves you paddle for, and can turn it to get down the line

File: download (1).jpg (6.5 KB)

>go on surf trip to tropical destination (Phillippines)
>it's a small-ish island and the swell wraps around both ends so there's always a break that's offshore
>spend my days cruising around on my scooter and cathcing clean waves every single day
>some days it's triple overhead and barrelling other days it's a 2ft pointbreak longboarding wave but it's clean every day
>drink fresh coconut water after sessions and at night go party and pick up local and tourist sluts
>come back home
>back to the office
>waves are shit and blown out most days, and when it's good I have to work

Words cannot even describe how horrible this feeling is

>>239981
A wave like that has literally never broken in Perth.

>>240584
I grabbed rail yesterday and kept looking down the line. Either I would shoot like a rocket and miss the coverage or the foamball would blind me and I would end up getting tossed by the lip (and hopefully look like those ...Lost video riders who just get those grimy crumbling barrels).

>>254520
based slot machine enjoyer

>>254544
Cha ching.

https://youtu.be/7KpI5VXuDUk

How do you know if you're outrunning the wave and need to slow down or do a cutback? Is it just the "wall" next to you flattening out?

>>254571
I spent days thinking of an answer and the best I got is you just feel it.. like is the wave pushing you? if no, get closer to the pocket..

>>254544
But why slot machine?

>>254301
damn i know this fucking feel

>>254662
the post surf trip depression is always horrible as fuck.

Any skimboarders here? I see people skimboarding when the tide is in and it looks fun as fuck, but I fear that I might hurt myself because I am too fat.

>>254571
>>254616
I think, like everything in surf. it's about knowing something is gonna happen before it does, aka reading the wave.

>no problem paddling my boards
>No problem catching waves
>But rides feel short, not a lot of time to do maneuvers
>Still can't ride up and down the wave face, do cutbacks
Can't tell if my boards are too small, or the waves aren't strong, or I just need to work on technique

Currently I ride a 9ft board. Been surfing consistently since I started 8 months ago now. On bigger days (4ft+), it feels like I can barely paddle out. Once I'm where I want to be I'm exhausted and my technique suffers.
Do I:
>A. buy a smaller board that I can duck dive
>B. improve my cardio
>C. something else entirely?

>>257149
depends how well youre surfing on the 9' board on the not as big days. going to a smaller board to be able to duck dive will drastically lower your paddle speed. Theyre definitely fun but you'll get absolutely fucked trying to catch bigger stuff in the beginning. Improve cardio is always a goal as well. The cool thing about surfing is that the ocean will gatekeep you until youre good enough to ride the big waves

>>257187
>depends how well youre surfing on the 9' board on the not as big days.
I would rate myself a 5/10. I can catch waves and I can turn both directions without falling off (most of the time).

>>237740
Wetsuit you dingus

>>257149
Time to get a mini mal. 7 something. You won't be able to duck dive it, but if that's your goal, you aren't gonna catch waves. Learn to time your paddle out between sets

>>257073
>Ended up listening to r*ddit shrieking about not being able to catch waves because I'm not on an infinity liters egg
>Buy an extra wide, extra thick 6'4 funboard
>It rides like total shit, sticks out of the water
>Meanwhile all I had to do was plant my rail earlier
Well, fuck

>>257566
Move your backfoot back, back, back.
No, that's not back enough.
Always remember "no, that's not back enough".

Bodyboarder here. Been pretty infrequent over the past few years due to work. I start early and finish late. No time to surf other than on the weekends. Had a fun sunday afternoon session today though. Landed a few reverse spins and got a few barrels at a local sand bank. Was fun. A stand up surfer commented on how he wished he could get compact enough to fit into the little barrels.

File: OTC.jpg (21.8 KB)

YO, WHAT'S UP 4CHAN, WE OUT CHEA WITH THE CREW, ME, THE DRAGON, RENNY, WE ARE STOOOOOKED....HELL YEAH, TODAY...TODAY WE ARE SURFING SAN DIEGO'S PRIME SPOT, DUDE...IT'S FIRING OUT THERE, ALL THE LOCAL HEROES, ALL THE LEGENDS ARE HERE, WE OUT CHEA WITH THEM, WE HAVE THE HOMIES FILMING, WE HAVE CRACKING CONDITIONS, IT'S GONNA BE OFF. THE. CHAIN DUDE, I SWEAR, THE AMOUNT OF TALENT GATHERED HERE, BOTH ON AND OFF THE WATER IS INSAAAANE. PERSONALLY I AM COMING OFF OF A THIRTY-DAY HOUSE ARREST ORDER, WE WERE PARTYING A LITTLE TOO HARD IF YOU REMEMBER ON THR LAST VIDEO, HAHA, WE OUT CHEA, SO YEAH...I'M GONNA SKIP THE SUNSET SESH ON THE LOW TIDE BECAUSE I HAVEN'T SURFED IN A MONTH DUDE. BUT, YOU KNOW WHAT? THE SUN IS SHINING, THE BABES ARE OUT, ALL MY FRIENDS ARE HERE, I FEEL BLESSES MY DUDES. LET ME KNOW IN THE COMMENTS IF YOU'D LIKE MORE BONG-HITTING INSTRUCTION VIDEOS, IF YOU YOU LIKE WHAT WE'RE DOING, THIS IS ZEKE AND LET'S GET IT. YEW.

*cuts to 360 air reverse*

>>258191
>*gets bashed*

>>258191
What is it with Sandiegans making the most memeable youtubers? Are white people in indentured servitude there?

>>258191
SHOUTOUT TO MY SPONSOR, RUSTY, THERE'S LITERALLY NO BETTER SURFBOARDS OUT THERE, I COULD NEVER IN MY LIFE SURF AS GOOD AS WHEN I HAD A RUSTY UNDER MY FEET, PLUS THEY'VE BEEN SO GOOD TO ME, THEY PAY FOR MY TRIPS, MY BOARDS, DUDE....EVERYTHING. CHEK IT OUT, I'M WEARING THE NEW SERIES OF T-SHIRTS, RUSTY IS COMING OUT WITH THEM IN NOVEMBER, I BELIEVE, SUBSCRIBE AND JOIN THE RAFFLE YOU COULD BE ONE OF ONLY THIRTEEN, NO, SORRY, FIFTEEN LUCKIES OUT THERE WHO GET ONE FOR FREE AND...IF YOU GO TO RUSTY DOT COM AND USE THE PROMO CODE ZEKEOTC, THAT'S ZEKE, MY NAME, OH TEE CEE, YOU GET THIRTY PERCENT OFF ALL SURFWEAR FROM THE WEBSITE, THAT'S T-SHIRTS, HOODIES, SOCKS...DUDE RUSTY SOCKS ARE OFF THE CHAIN, THEY'RE SO COMFORTABLE, I'M WEARING THEM RIGHT NOW *camera pans to Zeke's feet*

>>257149
Even on a big day its still easier to paddle out on a log than anything in the reddit funboard size range. The problem with such boards is that they paddle MUCH slower than a 9'+ while still lacking the ability to properly duck dive. So you basically have the worst of both worlds. Work on your cardio because if you're struggling on a longboard it will be much worse on mid length.

Caught my first waves in months today. Legs were bit shaky at first but had no real problems catching waves. Thought I'd be fucked fitness wise, quite happy. Middle of autumn and wearing boardies is a treat.

Had an awesome bodyboard this weekend on sunday morning at a local rivermouth spot. About 4-5ft high peaky barrels over a dredging rip bowl. Light offshore winds all morning. All the surfers were down the line catching the wide ones that were less steep and I had the rip bowl all to myself. Probably got like 5-6 barrels. Sick views of some wide kegs. Did a bunch of 360 spins and some rolls. So fun bros. I love bodyboarding.

File: Screenshot_20260410-184222.png (2.2 MB)

>take big fat groveler out of expecting some ankle slappers
>Get to beach, it's actually firing
>Paddle out, it's actually well overhead
>Great if I had my normal board and not my oversized xxxl fat guy shortboard
>Try to stay inside and catch something smaller
>Hit by broken wave, board fucking rockets forward
>Just keeps on going, holding on for dear life knowing the bottom is shallow
>Crash into rocks on the shore, manage to climb up before getting pounded too much
Well, I guess I'm lucky I didn't die

File: rivermouth.jpg (263.6 KB)

Boogieboarder here. Surf report from a session about a week ago. Was at the beach at 6AM, surfed until about 8AM when I had to get out and drive to work. Super fun, peaky shoulder high barrels. I got probably 4-5 barrels and was able to do some good spins and rolls too. It was awesome getting to surf before work, I haven't done that in a long time.

Worked all day and then on the way back from work my thumb started feeling really sore. I'd got a pretty deep cut on it about a week before and it hadn't totally healed yet. The area around the cut was starting to look pretty infected. I got home and did my usual thing of putting some iodine on the infected area and thought that it'd be fine by tomorrow. Nope. Within about an hour the swelling was getting even worse and it was starting to throb like a motherfucker. Drove myself to the ER, turns out I got staph. That night I could barely sleep the pain was so bad, luckily by the next morning the antibiotics had kicked in and the pain was mostly gone.

I live in Ventura, California. Gross fucking water that gave me staph. I want to move further up north to San Luis Obispo, I know it's not as good surf up there but at least the water is clean.

>>260626
>Gross fucking water that gave me staph
That's depressing anon.
I used to booger, I'll never be good enough to surf the types of waves it gave me access to. Really considering getting back into it, I miss the green room.

>>260626
Why would you want to surf farther than Ventura anon? Ocean currents get way the fuck sketchy past that. Best make it south to Maliburbs

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>>260670
Idk man I would just rather be somewhere a bit more rural and have less people around but I know up there the surf is a lot more fickle and cold and sharky. I'll head down to Malibu once the big south swells start coming this summer. Hopefully Zuma lights up, that's a good wave for bodyboarding. Pic related is a wave somewhere up on the central coast though, not sure where, still yet to work that out.

>>260628
You should absolutely do it bro, at the very least just keep a bodyboard in your car so when you do go surf you have the option on those small yet hollow days to get a bit of barrel time. I pretty much get 4-5 barrels every time I surf and I'm just an average dude.

>>259574
>lucky I didn't die

Why would you? How crunchy are the rocks? If it's shallow you are safe, you can wade and catch the foam.

>>259321
YEW

\pp,/

yo yo yo serfs ap on the bogie maaaan. Catch a vibeeeee mannnnn

>>260763
>>260728
>>260626
>PORRA
*proceeds to claim at your local break after punting an air on a sharp eye*

btw gabes up on the bonsoy gold coast pro presented by GWM is on right now

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>>260948

holy shit toledo did the dane

Brazilians are the jeets of surfing

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>>260954
that's not even close to correct

>>260956
???

They are the worst, no etiquette or style

>>260964
but they rip in my experience they can be amicable as well but sometimes they are absolute psycho aggro but thats all surfers

look at toledo btw and say no style just be honest
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PRluZ7l4ynE

he literally did another disgusting nose pick at snapper

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>>260964
featuring commentary from 11x
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iK327rT30iA
>no style

Just saw a black guy surfing today, i didn't think they did that

>>260953
What is the dane?

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>>260727
White wash was pounding all the way up to these fuckers. Wouldn't have been bad if my board wasn't so buoyant

It's not even possible to be a surfer and be core. Surfing is so blown out that every kid thinks they're going to be the next famous vlogger shilling performance boardshorts and smoothie powder. The only core wave riders are boogieboarders and this make mediocre surfers seethe

>>261000
>>261001
Does he need to poo?

>>261192
quiet dickdragger and beat it to geeks peak before i run you the fuck over

pretty sure your /dickdragger/ general is on page 14 go find it

>>261254
This is such kook shit

>>261190
That's the spot you surfed??? That looks sketchy as fuck, from the picture at least. How do you even get back on land?? Doesn't even look like there would be much of a face on a wave breaking there.

>>261254
LMAO that's him done

>>260954
I see your point. But I feel the're closer to kikes.

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>>261640
Nah bra i'm still out here surfing and getting waves, this morning was okay, i was expecting more but got a few fun corners. Small wave bodyboarding is difficult but if you can learn to do tricks on small waves then doing it on bigger waves will be easy.

>>261190
>>261639
Lol right, looks like deep ocean out there. where is the reef

>>261254
>mediocre surfers seethe

Have you guys ever totally wipeout infront of everyone

>>261663
Of courshe!

A good slam is as spectacular as a ride.

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>>261659
honestly dickdragger kun I was having a bad day sorry i barked at you i was suffering from nonenoughwaveitus

glad you scored bud
>>261653
also you >>>/pol/ fucking racist

>>261659
I'm the same poster, I was just doubling down on the teasing of the "dickdragger" poster. There is a little reef on the right side of the screen, so if that cove is bigger in person than in the picture, there could be a little right. But it looks more like something Nathan Florence would try.

>>261665
Lol it's all good bro i was only bantering anyway, all my mates are surfers and i just have to give them shit because what else can i do when i'm a sponger.

>>261663
never but sometimes i hit the lip and WOOPAH

>>258594
As a whale vagina citizen. Yes. Yes we are slaves to da weather and the hecking beach. I'm white but always get greeted in Spanish at the Mexican markets cause I'm damn near brown. Surfing is the only thing I got when I'm not working. As for the youtubers, idk they always go to Black beach when the swell hits.

>>242395
just surf more. theres no good workout that even translates to surfing. running or bjj helps with the cardio aspect but if you want to improve the posture related fatigue then you just gotta surf

>>252408
just move <3

>>261683
>whale vagina

There's a translation joke here I am not perceiving.

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Couple ventura boogieboarder surf reports for you fellas:
surfed last night at local wedgey beach break, was just me, my friend and his neighbor, both stand up surfers. was windy when i got out there but it just started turning on as it got late, head high big wedge barrels, the rights were perfect ramped bowls for bodyboarding and the lefts had a bit more of a wall, good for the surfers. surfed until dark and the fog got so thick we couldn't see the beach anymore. i got a couple really good waves, even got one wedge powerful enough that i busted a pretty sick invert where my legs got out of the water.

went to the same spot with my friend this morning thinking it would be even better but alas it was pretty slow. luckily the conditions were great and i got one pretty nice wide barrel on a left before i had to get out and go to work. water was freezing cold and it felt very sharky.

went to the same spot again this afternoon but this time the local rich kids were on it, eithan osborne was there wearing an israeli flag wetsuit and a bunch of other guys who basically all look the same from the beach, riding brand new shortboards with former stickers. waves looked fun but i didn't want to go out and battle those guys, i've surfed with them before and it sucks, bad vibes if you're not part of their crew. oh well, more south swell coming later this week, should be a good weekend.

also got a new bodyboard in the mail, excited to try it out. it's meant to be very fast, it'll probably just be the same as any other premium bodyboard though since they're all pretty much made in the same place by the same indonesians.

>>261703
San diego means 'whale vagina' in german.

Got any advise which 5/3 wetsuit to get? There are so many brands and opinions

>>261639
>>261659
didnt have a photo of my local break on my phone. those are down the way by my place. Similar situation though, but with a reef past the rocks (theres a little beach to paddle in and out from)

>>261741
>eithan osborne was there wearing an israeli flag wetsuit

Don't know who that is but I wish a shark takes his legs

>>261741
>San diego means 'whale vagina' in german.

It does not

>>261768
he means swiss german

>>261767
an 'american' surfer who rides for the israeli olympic team

>>261780
Ok so that's a yoke

cali sisters, where are we surfing this weekend?

What is your surfing dream? I want to surf a tsunami.

>>261828
i'd like to live close to a consistent wave that is really good for bodyboarding. i live near some consistent waves that are OK for bodyboarding but most of the time i'm left thinking 'what if that bowl was just a little bit steeper'

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>>261828
I want to foil this line. I think it could be done as a downwinder/pump run. Local instructors I've talked to consider the idea suicidal madness :\

>>261882
Just wear an inner tube while doing it

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>>261883
I have other plans

>>261882
If you fall in the water, will you be purified?

>>261887
I don't know. does getting run over by a wakeboat make you more pure or less?

been such a shit weekend for the bodyboarding/punchy shortboard waves in ventura, this swell was pretty hyped but it's just been walled out and blown out from 6am onwards. managed to get a reasonable session at emma wood mid morning today, if you ever watch dane reynolds chapter 11 vids you might know the spot. there were about 20 shortboarders sitting on the north peak of the spot which was breaking quite well, about head high, but i was sitting on the middle peak with no one else out. the waves were far less consistent at the middle peak but when they did come through i had no one to compete with and that's always preferable for me as a sponger. i got a couple of sweet little cover-ups and did some pretty reasonable sized rolls considering the shitty conditions.

>>261828
warm water, sharkless, firing rights, babes optional

>>261884
wouldn't you drown if you did this and fell

post some fucking surf reports you bitches, i dont want to make this a boogieboarding general... you guys DO surf right?

>>262029
My boards are both trashed and my shaper didn't get to them yet

>>262029
the summer is fucking killing me its dead flat here and i want to die

>>262059
Rogue waves come to you soon broski

>>262029
Yeah I do, two days straight at my local, a snakepit with good peelers on the softer sode rather than the punchy side. I am after a break of a couple of weeks so having to constantly watch for the spoiled groms before I take off put extra pressure on me, in addition to my aversion of hitting the lip. If I wasn't taking the waves that I took, it would be impossible to even take one. Third day today looks the same, the spot is to be hit at low tide, when the swell and period expand, it's going to be glorious carnage.

>>262131
fuck yeah my brother

boogieboarded at emma wood again today, super windy and washed out but i managed to get a few fun little ones that made it worth it. tomorrow morning could be fun. i'm honestly so resigned to surfing shit waves this summer that i don't even care anymore, i'm just glad to be out there.

watched the raglan comp this weekend, mildy entertaining, no surf this past weekend

>>262396
Got about 4 decent ones today, three lefts, one right. I am regular. Right was steeper and when I faced the wall I managed to pivot in the pocket, but it felt so static, no speed, no spray, plus I wasn't aiming for it just had to do it to stay on the wave.

>>262396
>watched the raglan comp this weeken

Italian Ferrari rules.

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>>262029
Florida[man/fag] reporting in.
Today is the first day in weeks with swell and no crazy onshore winds. Unfortunately, this is also the week I found out I'm being laid off for the second time in 12 months, so all effort is being diverted to finding a new job. Surely this is a cruel cosmic joke.
Any other fellow Floridamen here? Need surfing buddies.

>>262499
KEK

>>262498
Why are you being laid off?

>>262511
I work at a tiny startup, our two biggest existing customers are way behind on their invoices (i.e. paying us) and we haven't been able to find new work. We don't have investors, the business has been cashflowed up to this point... but the cash has dried up so someone's gotta go

Floridafag reporting in. Although we haven't had any swell, the wind has been completely dead for 2 days straight. Having a wonderful time this weekend longboarding tiny waves over rocks at low tide. Been catching wave after wave, probably 10/hour. The rides might be short and slow but I'm having so much fucking fun, it's so sunny and beautiful and the water is glassy and crystal clear and fuck i love surfing so much it's unreal love from florida. Just paddle into a little ankle-biter, turn in and ride it for 10 seconds, then an easy 10-second paddle back to the break. Did this for like 4 hours straight. Caught probably 40 waves. Had some little kids cheering me on from shore too, which was great. I love surfing.

>>262773
>ride it for 10 seconds

Hey, that's not so short my brother

Are sharks actually a threat when surfing or is that a meme? If there's no blood in the water they're not interested right?

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boys had a fucken CRANKING session after work today in ventura at the rivermouth here, the wind was slightly onshore and it was crumbling the face of the waves just a tiny bit but they still had a great peaky shape with some fuckin DREDGING bowls... the big sets were maybe even 8ft so pretty decent height. i got a couple sick drainers and got one right that just blessed me with the perfect section to bust a big invert. you know you've done a good invert when you feel your legs floating through the air. don't get the chance to do big airs on the waves here in california very often but when you do it's a real treat. this is what an invert (pic related) looks like for all my surfing brethren, what do you think of it? in my opinion it's the most stylish air maneuver that can be done on a boogieboard although it's far from the hardest.

also surfed before work today and it was pretty good but i had to get out before the tide fully dropped and i heard it got a bit better after i left.

hopefully some waves tomorrow boys, fucken YEWW i'm frothing right now.

>>263133
in 99.99999% of cases the sharks do not care about you, if you live in somewhere like the USA or Australia you have to realise that there are probably sharks swimming around near you and even under you every time you surf. there are certain areas where it does seem like the sharks are particularly aggressive though, like the north coast of NSW australia...

i have lived on the south east coast of Australia and i had only 1 shark encounter when i was about 13. my dad was on the shore and saw a shark swim through a wave in front of me. but i saw lots of sharks when i was out working as a deckhand on a boat, often times we were fishing right near the reefs i would surf and i would see sharks from the boat so that was a bit unnerving. i now live in southern california and have seen maybe 2 sharks, both were probably 100 yards away and did not look very big...

>>263133
>NSW australia
Been like 15+ attacks this year alone with several fatalities, surfed here for 20+ years and times have changed. They're protected species so the numbers are out of control. I used to find the most uncrowded sharky spot and go straight out, lately my fear has relegated me to surfing with crowds like a kook.

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>>263207
>I used to find the most uncrowded sharky spot and go straight out, lately my fear has relegated me to surfing with crowds like a kook.
fuck man so relatable, growing up on east coast aus i would ride my bike about 3km to the spot reef in pic related and boog the little novelty slab right off the tip of it at dawn by myself... no fucken way i would do that nowadays ha

>>262773
sounds delightful, reading stuff like this makes me want to get a big longboard and just surf every day of the year

is nor cal surfing extra gnar? I only skate so not familiar.

>>263260
>picrel
wth lol my parents owned a place in the town 15 mins from there

>>263266
Lol really? crazy, if you didn't know the beach break around the corner from there can get pretty fucking good, like as good as any famous beachie in the world on its day... i grew up just north of there

>>263268
South or north? I surfed the beachie directly to the south on some very good days. I was two beaches up but remember the dirt road to there with teddy bears nailed to the trees kek. Spent my covid days surfing that region but they sold the place since.

>>263269
>I was two beaches up
so you were in moruya heads?