>>98115388
This made me think it would be fun to see a comparison of how people painted the same/a similar model when they started and now

File: 1779897007224.png (508.7 KB)

>>98115700
this also includes conversion work, then vs now

is the 3 layers warhammor says to paint first the same as the primer layer you get with a big spray can

File: IMG_4569.jpg (748.9 KB)

>>98115248
Tried cleaning with a wet Q tip and warm water and no luck

Could be cos I was a dumbass and applied microset after already putting the decal down in place with water & didn't let the water dry fully first

Could also be cos they're cheap chinese copies of the legion transfer sheet

The stains vanish completely when I put any liquid on them so thinking they'll go away if I put a coat of varnish over it?

>>98115840
I would be more worried about the mold line on the leg. Might be the chinesieum transfer film. Try a second coat of microset and let it fully dry before testing a coat of varnish over it

>>98115565
>>98115603
so painting only 2 hours every single day makes you a master painter in 14 years

>>98115840
>>98115903
>Try a second coat of microset and let it fully dry before testing a coat of varnish over it
I was thinking a second (or even third!) coat of Microset might help, too. Plus, you can always paint over the edges of the transfer with your blue as well.

>>98115840
that paint is grainy as balls
if airbrushed, it dried before reaching the mini

Mainly just layering / highlighting on the cape and skin left. First time doing purity seal text, kinda just winged it. Not super happy with it, but don't hate the result.

Are there any alternatives to liberator gold for highlighting gold? This is just retributor armor + reikland wash then relayered with retri + liberator gold highlights. I feel like I can barely make out the liberator gold.

>>98115978
nice camo

File: IMG_6870.jpg (1.5 MB)

>>98115978
goddammit

>>98115984
picture is pretty blurry but i like your empire general mounted on griffon
you have been painting that thing for a month and it really shows

>>98115700
Here's some initiates. That 2022 initiate was my second mini ever, you could use those whites as sandpaper

>>98115978
>>98115984
Looking good, maybe one day I'll paint mine

>Are there any alternatives to liberator gold for highlighting gold?
add a light silver to it, or use it by itself if you want a stronger, shinier highlight

File: progress.jpg (523.7 KB)

>>98116119
Well it seems I also forgot something

File: TSF-049.jpg (1018.8 KB)

>Yes!!!! YES!!!!!
Success! Finally manage to pull off an aiming pose that utilizes a traditional 2 handed aiming stance. I had made another halfling arquebusier in a firing pose but he was using his pavise like a musket rest.

Here he's is hunched down over braced up against it preparing to fire. With this guy I chose to use a piece of styrene strip to reinforce the pavises connection to the base, because it has a kind of little spike that you're supposed to glue into something. Just not enough there, it it dropped the thing would snap. So I took advantage of that I pushed his right left foot right up against that styrene strip to create a bond there, then when I leaned him into the pose I braced his arm against the shield for another contact point. Once all the sprue goo dries I'll drill up underneath the base and drop some pins into the feet, fix inside with some superglue and then further secure it by burying the rest of it in some sprue goo.

That's one of the really nice things about these Rubicon bases besides the lip for backfilling and the ergonomic design, the top and underside are marked with matching little divots on the top and underside. So I just mark the one it's on, drill up and drop in my pin, fix it with the old superthin superglue and it works pretty well. Sometimes if I'm concerned about a heavier piece I'll even bend the steel/brass pin to angle around under the base and hug up against it. and then do the same superglue/cure/sprue goo treatment.

>>98115948
Doesn't look that grainy when you're looking at it, the photo is just too zoomed in

>>98115934
>>98115903
Microset & not microsol? Was thinking Microsol might dissolve the glue as well

>>98116260
>Doesn't look that grainy when you're looking at it
Lets not have another brap schizo moment.

Now, after switching to demineralised water instead of Vallejo thinner for AK paints kinda solved the problem of jamming it with gum-like paint layer, I wonder - was that really the thinner/flow improver incompatibility or rather mixing paint outside the cup and lowering pressure to just 1 bar.

>>98116351
Like I said a few times before, you might got a bad batch of the thinner. It sometimes happens. I have a bottle of bad batch VMS varnish on my table, for example.
~1 bar is a normal pressure for airbrushing.

>>98116351
>lowering pressure to just 1 bar.
i use normal old garage compressor with no bells and whistles and 20 euro chinaman airbrush and ive never had any problems not counting the first day when i had to learn how to operate the damn thing
have you had any luck so far or are you just that inept in handling the thing

>>98116397
I think that anon is just REALLY bad at elimination method and got a shitty thinner batch.

>>98116373
>~1 bar is a normal pressure for airbrushing.

I thought that everyone recommended starting at "25-28 psi" which translate to roughly 1.7-1.9 bar. Once ran into some guy recommending working at 3 bar for whatever reason (I suspect he must be VERY good at trigger handle as I assume that at this pressure slightest pull makes paint spray like crazy).

>bad batch
I honestly don't think so. Tried two bottles of new Vallejo thinner and one of the older one (inb4 - yes, apparently they changed formula a little, new one is missing something that was rumoured to be harmful, forgot the name) so chances that all three are bad are thin as good glaze.

>>98116397
Yes, yes, heard that before, everyone is getting perfect results from absolutely shittest tools available and only I get it wrong because I'm a retard who don't deserve to live. But aside from that I just want to figure out what was just going on there.

File: hehe.jpg (667.9 KB)

Just finished painting this tank for next Only War session. Probably sent it straight to its doom with that marking...

Next time, I should pull up an actual reference and dial back the weathering big time

>>98116437
>I honestly don't think so
You sure? You tried other brands/art thinners? AK makes alright ones, and you would be staying with brand. But yeah, the chance is small, but considering that half of the world uses Vallejo thinner + AK paints, it's still a chance.
>I thought that everyone recommended starting at "25-28 psi
You use what pressure you need for the task. I use around 18 psi for general stuff, around 28 for priming and basecoating, and around 10 and less for detail work. It depends on your trigger control, on your compressor, brush, and more. No universal value.

>>98116467
ngl that thing looks abandoned. it does look good, but not like something that would move.

>>98116437
i dont think i have shitty tools they are perfectly fine for my needs
at this point have you considered that you might be an actual retard if none of the expensive and complicated things you have tried so far havent worked

>>98116467
the cannon looks too good for a tank that has been underwater since ww2

>>98116477
>>98116499
It was kinda the goal. We are currently stuck skirmishing a cultist warband on a heavily corrosive planet, fighting over a factory/mining complex that was turned into a mound of brick long ago. For the longest time, this tank was basically relegated to being a stationary bunker with a massive ass cannon turret for us.

Besides huffing a bit too many enamels. I also tried to hide the FDM print lines by using putty and a stiff brush, but I should probably just sand it next time

>>98116467
there's a pube stuck to the turret right behind the mantlet

>>98116631
lmao

>>98116631
Must be indigenous vines or something, free weathering.

>>98116548
> stationary bunker with a massive ass cannon turret for us.
then it's perfect, add vines and an alien bird nest

>>98116631
A dog pube no less.

>>98116490
Nah, it's always something small that turns out significant but is not mentioned, considered "common knowledge" ("common knowledge" does not exist, actually).

>>98116548
Imo, unless you want to strip it, I think turning it into an overgrown terrain piece could be a pretty good idea. Rustify the cannon, add growing vines and other plants, maybe even lil tree growing out of the hatch, and it will be awesome.
All the weathering work you did is fantastic, but it is way, way WAY too overplayed for a vehicle that's supposed to be functional.

I wanna try this contrast stuff for lulz, I've some quar that are just right material to test them on, would you recommend new speedpaint or vallejo ones?

>>98116737
they are really good for basecoating
i have basically stopped using black because black legion is so good and covers so well

>>98116548
damn, it makes perfect sense now. well done.

>>98115840
This happens to me sometimes with the mr hobby decal fixers, usually I can rub it off with my finger.

>>98116467
I think it's a vibe. It does irk me that the id numbers are so pristine, I feel like they should be way more chipped/faded.

>>98116499
Oddly enough the gun doesn't bother me, maybe because it's such a stark contrast. It's such a key feature having it stand out helps the model immediately read as "tank" rather than "barnacle".

do waterslides use the same technology as hydro dip film? I always wondered what it would look like to do a stealth suit with a camo dip.

>>98116467
the more I look at this gun the more I hate it.
>knot can't tell if it wants to be a muzzle brake or a bore evacuator
>rivets on the barrel

>>98116467
Looks good enough for a cheap temu fdm print

File: camphoto_959030623.jpg (2.5 MB)

Zesty germans

what does greenstuff have over miliput? If I only wanted to sculpt stuff like hair, clothing, maybe some gore, is there one thats easier to work with than other for these effects?

>>98117389
GS is more rubbery, good for more organic shapes like viscera and soft shapes
miliput is hard and much more sandable, and better at sharp edges and defined shapes

>>98117389
they aren't expensive, get both, test them, mix them, you will find what your like for each application

>>98117389
Milliput is more like clay, hard but kinda brittle. Greenstuff is more like chewing gum, tough, sticky, and flexible. Milliput is a lot easier to work with in my opinion, but too brittle for things that stick out. You can also mix the two, to get a bit of both their properties.

>>98117389
I'll add that greenstuff has about half the workable time as milliput, which has its own benefits and drawbacks. For instance, if you use one of those roller gadgets to make a corrugated cable out of green stuff you can leave it for about an hour and have set enough to (mostly) keep the shape of the cable while still being flexible enough to bend it into the position it needs to be on the model. Of course you can do that just fine with milliput but you'll need to give it more time to set.

>>98117389
greenstuff is a putty that can be sculpted and carved once cured

milliput is a sludge that can be thinned with water and sanded

My ghostkeel's feet didn't end up being flat when I finished gluing it. I glued a paper clip to it's raised foot and had a round cork just small enough to fit under the foot for the paper clip to stick into.

Should I use Greenstuff or Milliput to turn it into a tactical rock? what would be better for that?

>>98115796
Usually you just do
>primer
>first (thin) layer of whatever color you want
>second (thin) layer
Some paints don't need to be thinned out of the bottle and some do, and others require more than 2 layers to get a good coat.

Has anyone tried ammo’s atom acrylic metals?
I’ve got eyes on their brass and black metal because I’ve seen pics of the black metal looking like the gw iron warriors paint.
Despite the webstore swatch showing otherwise.
The reason I ask about ammo’s metallics is because I’m not sure if the Vallejo metallics have been reformulated to ruin.

man priming pewter models really necessitates having a spoon to test your spray on since they all have a rough texture to begin with

>>98117687
>milliput is a sludge
Only if you add a lot of water.

So I got an H&S Evolution 2024 on impulse, and it is actually just a lot nicer to use than my badger 105. For anybody wondering if nicer airbrushes are actually any different.

>Try to paint a reddish leather with doombull
>mix in a bone to try for highlights
>Realize I should have mixed in a bright red or orange for highlights
I hate being artistically retarded

>>98118357
Evolution is a great brush, you bought well.

>>98118028
Damn it. I just used trial and error.

File: IMG_20260527_200245804~2.jpg (688.3 KB)

Little crew I built recently for a scratchbuilt concept staked field gun weapon frame I made last year.

>>98118375
Can always do a very light glaze of doombull back over the whole thing to bring it back towards the reddish.

>>98118667
I might start over on it. I didn't actually accomplish much today since I was trying to glaze in some shadows rather than layer them in like I usually do so I won't lose much progress even if I reapply the base all over.
I'm going for a fairly pristine leather on this one so not much of the scratches and cracks that I see in a lot of leather tutorials.

My Vallejo metallics are really watery out of the bottle, what should I do about it? Just wait a couple minutes for it to dry out? Mix in acrylic medium? Not sure what to do

>>98118836
Shake them more, ideally with a mixing bead or two.
If they're left for too long (like on a store shelf) the pigments settle and form a "puck" at the bottom of the bottle.

>>98118977
Nta but wouldn’t stirring with a toothpick be a better idea?

Also are vallejos metallic color paints unaffected by the reformulation? Or did they get a reformulation at all?

>>98118986
>Nta but wouldn’t stirring with a toothpick be a better idea?
You can do both.

Anybody tried ammo’s ionic or atom colors? It is a scale model production so maybe the white and yellows and other paints known for piss poor coverage would be better than proacryl?
Difference between ionic and atom color lines?

>>98118986
>>98119081
If you're a single guy shaking by hand is probably the fastest and best option.

>>98118660
soulful :) now paint it

>>98118660
I will never understand why people will spend hours drilling barrels, scraping mold lins, scratch building pieces out of plasticard, sculpting bits with milliput or greenstuff, etc...
Yet I have NEVER seen anyone but myself cut those little oval bases off the feet of minis that come with them instead of gluing that base on top of another base.

>>98119124
Because I can sculpt around / over that oval with milliput, that way there's less chance of damaging the feet.

>>98119124
it's easier to cover it with basing material

>>98119124
>>98119134
+ I find cutting away the oval is a lot of time and effort and stress trying to remove it perfectly without damaging the feet or cutting myself or something. Putty/clay is much faster and easier

>>98119134
don't try to cut it flush, cut around it and downward then when each foot is on it's own with a plug underneath it, lay the mini sideways and chop that last bit off with however much material to spare that makes you not fear damaging the toes.

File: IMG_8942.jpg (66.6 KB)

I felt a mighty need to paint a checkerboard on this powerfist
Big wide open flat colored weapons just don’t do it for me.
I’m going to be doing checkerboards, hazard stripes, and flame decals on fists like this. Any other simple freehand decals you add to break up large flat surfaces with too much of one color going on?

>>98119152
Photorealistic and to scale image of my cocknballs

>>98119112
>single guy
I should be fine as I like going to /s/ and /e/ quite a bit.
I gotta shake my paints with my left hand as I use my right hand too much.
On average how long does it take for acrylic mediums and pigments to separate so badly to the point where stirring or a glass mixing ball is needed?

>>98119237
I don't know I use my paints just about every day, if my paints ever separate then I'm in a fucking coma and it doesn't matter.

>>98119225
Sorry bub I don’t have the tools to paint something that small

File: 1779881175114981.png (143.4 KB)

>>98119304

File: 1779230379989922.png (343.2 KB)

>>98119432

>>98116135
Hell yeah. Reading your posts is making me want to experiment more with the poses on my minis instead of going with the default all the time.

>>98118015
I've used their gunmetal on gunpla. It has great coverage.

File: E09F54BF-8580-4DED-B633-E1E147F47F2E.jpg (92.2 KB)

Vallejo ink set is currently on sale right now for 17 bucks. Is it worth it?

>>98119991
Do you use inks at all on your usual workflow?

I finally got mr surfacer 1500 and I'm excited to give it a try
If I like it I'll get the airbrush version

>>98120026
>Do you use inks at all on your usual workflow?
Never used ink before, but I want to try it

File: PXL_20260528_102314829.jpg (4.0 MB)

>old Boyes closes
>new Boyes opens
>all the stock is new formula Vallejo, no old

Noooooo

>>98119991
tbf that's a lot of paint for $17
I'd get it if you do a lot of airbrushing

>>98120095
Is ink not good for hand brushing? I heard people say ink works better for glazing than normal paint?

>>98120165
Inks are great for upping the saturation on whatever matching color you want to glaze with them, you have to remember that they're fragile though, so varnish is required afterwards.

>>98120069
>2.75 pounds
sucks to be a brit i guess

>>98120069
that's a pretty nice looking store.
must be nice to have places like that nearby and not having to rely on online shopping all the time.

File: Capture.jpg (224.9 KB)

Assembling and painting a Bretonnian trebuchet. Hoped the kit was metal, but the forge cast is alright. Painting wood is fun.

File: 1779967572955345.jpg (4.4 MB)

>>98120288
Kinda yes, but also kinda no.
Because chances are, whenever you need a couple of paints, you drive like 15-20 minutes to the store, because why order online if all you need is a couple of paints, only to find out that whatever paint you wanted is one of the ones that are completely empty.

Then you end up buying 2-3 paints you needed, which they had and maybe evens something you dont need, just to justify the time you spend to go there. And you have to order online regardless, because you could not get everything you actually needed.

I'm actually glad my local store also has an online store, so i can support them without the need to physically go there.

>>98119991
What does the individual Inks cost?

Chances are you will never use up all 8 of them, and it would be more beneficial to buy 3-4 at a regular price, and replace them whenever empty.

>>98120344
Is there any must have inks?

>>98120443
black, brown, maybe white if you do glow effects

>>98119991
Where? $17 is a damn good deal.

File: vallejo-game-color-ink-72093-1.jpg (80.0 KB)

>>98120450
What the hell is skin ink? Like wash?

>>98120455
>Where?
China

>>98120467
if you never used an ink think about it like a thinner wash with a truckload of pigment

>>98120450
This. And maybe red, if you paint a lot of red things.

>>98120491
Hard to compare it with a wash, because the ink will not gather in the recesses primarily, but coat the entire surface.

>>98120491
>>98120499
What is the point of skin ink though? It's like transparent orange-brown or something?

>>98120467
It's a wash that suits normal human skin color for it's use. I struggle to comprehend how you struggle to comprehend this.

File: All_Right_Then,_Keep_Your_Secrets.jpg (106.1 KB)

>>98120479

>>98120537
But what’s the point of it, though? There’s already flesh wash

How do I make washes like Seraphim Sepia / Agrax not so blotchy? I am trying to use as little paint as possible.

>>98119957
Can I have a pic of the gunmetal on the gunpla please so I can see the metal shine and tone?

>>98119991
Except white ink, the rest are a wasted of time. Just use contrast, xpress, speedpaint whatever with their mediums, basically the same thing

>>98120515
>>98120537
>>98120549
It's an ink, a very strong pure pigment. So, it can become wash if you want, a metric fuckton of it, which is already imo a pretty good selling point.
This bottle + acrylic medium (and/or distilled water) + optional flow improver + another optional color = fuckload of skin wash of any shade and intensity you want.
It's been a long time since I used acrylic washes, but I remember making my own from inks and you could get multiple 17ml bottles from 1 ink bottle. I'm sure there's a tutorial somewhere.

>>98120620
Why not just use normal paint or constrast speed paint to make wash?

>>98120641
Or even better, Oil wash

>>98120641
Don't ask me, I haven't use acrylic washes in year+. I see no reason to when there are oils and enamels.
But a lot of people seem to insist on acrylics, so I'm explaining that you can mix truckload of your own from inks.

File: Blackbeard Hugo.jpg (1.0 MB)

>>98120594
Apologies if it isn't particularly helpful, I was still very new to painting so I wound up slathering it in a wash without much thought.
The gunmetal parts are the gatling gun, the hands, and the frame underneath his armor.

File: 1779979339936.png (1.7 MB)

>>98120515
it's just a color name, it's probably orangy brown yes
here's a photo from a very old gw ink painting example, top right is their flesh wash over white

>>98120515
the point of inks is the high pigment content and smoothness, they also behave differently to paint/speedpaint/washes, they also predate the last two
a better question would be what's the point of a wash when an ink with water and flow improver does the same a lasts 10x, but it's just that, different tools, different ways of slaping pigment on models, you don't need them the same way you may not need speedpaints or washes

>>98120755
>what's the point of a wash when an ink with water and flow improver does the same a lasts 10x
Profits

>>98120773
yeah, but options is also good, not everybody wants to bother mixing their own
same reason 'airbrush' paints exist

>>98120641
those mediums won't thin the same way, but you can totally do that, i have been thinning black paint with water to use as a wash for years
contrast paints are glorified washes in some cases and glorified inks in others

>>98120755
>here's a photo from a very old gw ink painting example
Hey I still have that booklet.
Didnt I had a fellow spaniard in here

>>98120773
that too but it's also convenience

File: 1779980970883.png (483.4 KB)

>>98120820

File: oldfag.jpg (138.0 KB)

>>98120755
>>98120820
>>98120850

>>98120937
dios mio... el orco grandote...

>>98120966
kek

File: sorry for what.jpg (24.4 KB)

>>98120467

>>98120937
wehre is taht from? is that the how to paint miniatures book? seems familiar but i never had that one

File: deffy.jpg (799.4 KB)

Moving into freehand - last model before ive finished the combat patrol (minus a boy that fell behind my desk but he dosent count)

instead of edge highlighting is it worth adding a brighter blue to some of the middle panels?

>>98112448
Sorry I'm really late to the party but that has nothing to do with the application technique, Rustoleum 2x white is literally hydrophobic, it's for being painted on alone or sprayed with other solvent-based cans. Get a pure primer, I switched away from rattlecans but I've heard good things about the camouflage line, or most miniature-focused cans.

>>98121449
You already have a good broken texture with the sliver peeking through the blue, it might look weird if you added a lighter blue. Maybe you could faintly drybrush on some light blue but I would test it on another model first.
It's also sort of already highlighted since the edges are silver.

>>98120667
I find regular acrylic washes are better when you want to tint something rather than shade it.

>>98121661
Why the fuck would white be the only color that acts like that? That's fucking weird.

>>98121842
white is always fucky, the molecule of the pigment is big and heavy, also they probably try to compensate that with a thicker medium

File: signal-2026-05-28-213538_002.jpg (262.0 KB)

>>98121046
>is that the how to paint miniatures book?
Yeah.
I think it came inside the boxes? I dont remember well, honestly.

>>98122292
oh it's the one with the bird demon, i did have that one, maybe from one of the starter boxes taht came with the rules

File: 20260528_220212.jpg (189.9 KB)

Painting up one of the 20mm tall Risk Legacy minis. I think I'll make an Turnip28 army out of them, even though they'll look a bit silly on 25mm bases.

File: 20260528_220750.jpg (1.1 MB)

>>98122401
Nid for scale

>>98122415
cant even imagine painting something this small. Also minis this small look goofy

>>98122439
It's pretty fun
Contrast and popping colour choices feel like they make more of an impact on the final model. Without a magnifier, I can hardly see any of the many imperfections. Not sure how to base it, though. Maybe I should do two different units per 25mm base.
They do look a bit goofy, haha.

>>98122415
damn that's a small bitch

File: InstantEmotion_ThickerFormula.jpg (402.3 KB)

Anyone here have experience with CA Debinder? I'm thinking of trying some out, and I think I want a brush applicator for it. I found this one but it is listed as XXTRA THICK and honestly I don't know if that's a desirable quality when using this on miniatures.

Glue thots?

>>98122730
if they're plastic models this will mess up the texture of the plastic too

>>98122741
Well yes, I'll be using it on plastic potentially, but moreso with metal, thermo plastic and plastic resin. So consider that all of which can't use plastic glue what so ever, so I'll be using CA glue for them instead.

This shit melts plastic?

>>98122756
unless advertised otherwise they most likely will

>>98122756
I used it to remove some badly placed magnets from bases and yeah it softens the plastic a good deal

File: 20260528_002540.jpg (2.8 MB)

Sons of Horus sorcerer

File: 20260528_002527.jpg (2.9 MB)

>>98122822

>>98121842
>>98121940
Thicker medium would be a good thing, and for all of titanium's faults it's hydrophobic inherently, I thought they might have added a filler white pigment but a quick google shows that there are also coatings for titanium dioxide that improve weather resistance while making it hydrophobic as a side effect.
It's a same that so many mini painters (including me) end up with it as their first white primer.
>>98122822
I like the colors but it's hard to tell how intentional the texture is.

>>98122952
>titanium's faults it's hydrophobic inherently,
NOT hydrophobic inherently, fuck

File: 20260529_002048.jpg (164.2 KB)

>>98122401
>>98122415
Calling her done, that's as much as I can squint

>>98122967
Looks good considering the size. Are you sure it's 20mm? Looks more like 15mm to me.

File: 20260529_003006.jpg (174.3 KB)

>>98122983
Thanks anon
She looks about 20mm tall when I put her on the metric cutting mat, but I suppose it's actually the base that should be measured, isn't it? That would indeed put her closer to 15mm

>>98122952
The textures are all generally intentional, going for a more grimdark look. Just needs a few touch-ups here and there to add consistency

>>98123005
It's not the base, but rather the height from the feet to the eye level what defines scale.

Anyone know how to paint silk fabric? I can literally only find a single Vince video on the subject and it's not even the focus of the video.

>>98123437
Just like any fabric but with slightly stronger highlights?

>>98120288
I have yet to go into a FLGS that doesn't up charge every single product by 20% or more.
Not a "oh it's local so we ask for a little more (5-10%)" It's fucking awful. I hate what this scene has become so much it's unfathomable. Old school stores are dead. Now it's just shops that promote the current thing and focus every event around fucking trading cards.
The only thing lower than a TCG player is a funko-pop enthusiast.
Be happy, game stores are overrated and generally suck. Just make friends and play at your homes. It's a way better experience.

File: rtgames.jpg (451.4 KB)

>>98123561
I remain convinced that my FLGS is the best for hundreds of miles. Beyond that, we have several other ok ones in the city too.

>>98123561
small stores can't compete with big box stores or online on prices. big stores can afford single digit margins because they are doing so much volume. small stores need 20% or more just to keep the lights on.

File: autarch on jetbike conversion.png (2.4 MB)

Can anyone identify where the back half of this conversion comes from?

The front is of course from the old vyper kit, the rear wings appear to come from a guardian heavy weapons platform, and the seat comes from a normal jetbike, but idk about the rest.

File: gunwight 5.png (350.4 KB)

this skull face I sculpted looks so much worse with paint on it than it did as raw green stuff

>>98124001
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ad87SqVYizA

>>98124001
You'll have to rely less on the shape and basically freehand a skull on it.

>>98124001
It obviously doesn't look realistic, but I honestly think it's got a good charm to it. I find it very pleasing to look at.

File: 20260528_204923.jpg (458.8 KB)

WIP, just have the metal parts left to highlight.

>>98124103
those red robes are very nice, anon
I also spot a bit of freehand on the mitre and the visible corner of the white mantling, is there more on the back?

>>98124119 (me)
>>98124111
the second post hadn't loaded when I sent the reply, lol
the freehand on the shield is stellar

File: 20260529_161908.jpg (1.7 MB)

Two of four berzerkers done, just have to darken the blacks on the other two then done. Daemon prince done :) Feels good having the colour scheme confirmed.

File: 20260529_161814.jpg (1.8 MB)

>>98124246

File: 20260529_162204.jpg (1.0 MB)

>>98124249
Also going to buy a darker gray for the base rims...

File: PXL_20260529_050504348.MP.jpg (112.6 KB)

I'm starting to get lazy and phone this in a bit. I don't know if that means I should just wrap it up and work on something else asap, or if I should just take a break and do it when my head is in a better place to focus on it.

>>98124253
I just ordered
Vallejo: Model Colour - German Grey
Vallejo: Model Colour - Grey Green
Vallejo: Model Air - Black Grey
I know one of these will work for the rims..

>>98124269
Take a break, looking good bro

>>98124278
Should've gotten AK rubber grey, you fool

>>98124269
A delayed model will eventually be good, a rushed model is forever bad.

>>98124293
D: you mean Rubber Black? Can't see a rubber grey

>>98124293
>>98124299
Ordered some AK rubber black as well,,, I find I am quite particular about base rim colour. I can't feel peace in my heart until it is right. Not so fretful about paint jobs

File: 20260529_191213.jpg (1.2 MB)

Last spampost I promise. Just really happy with how his glowy eyes turned out. The center of the eye is Scalecolor FX Fluo speed yellow over white.

>>98123803
At the rate I see my local store expanding. This is horse crap. I don't believe to be true.
Idk why their is this need to simp for stores when they literally benefit from scalpers and other bad practices.
Big box stores get swarmed and now the local shop can justify $15 per pack for cards. Not buying it. You can simp for your local store all you like. I'm more than done. I bought a Stompa for the prices my store wanted for a gork. Fuck them and their predatory practices. "keep the lights on" what an evil way to appeal to sympathy. I don't feel bad for a business owner and I never will.

>>98124468
Spam all you want anon, beats dumb arguments. The eyes look nice.

>>98124493
Thanks anon, it was like 6 or 7 blimmin layers of orange and 2 layers of yellow before the white but it paid off I reckon. Anyone know of an orange that covers well in less layers over dark colours? I'm user Reaper Bones sunset orange

>>98124493
>People conversing is an argument
Zoom zoom back to whatever hug box you came from.

>>98124469
Relax anon, you've made up your mind so just shop online. No need to be upset. The only reason I ever go to a hobby shop or LGS is because I'm impatient and want something this instant.

>>98124505
>people conversing
I wasn't talking about people conversing, I was talking about dumb arguments.

>>98124469
obviously it depends on a lot of factors, but the last small business I worked for had to pay $6k a month just in rent and utilities. payroll was another $5k to have 2 retail wagies per shift. that works out to needing to make $500 per business day just to break even. that doesn't sound like a lot, but that's $500 net profit. if you buy some bullshit for $10 and sell it at 20% margin you only make $2.50 per sale. you would have to sell 200 of those things every day to stay open.

>>98124502
Pretty sure orange pigment is just weak, never seen an orange that covers well.

File: AISelect_20260529_010219_Discord.png (925.4 KB)

how's this look guys? still WIP but almost done i think

>>98124570
how did he get into my computer

>>98122730
pretty sure it's just acetone, mine is and the one time I used it it worked, it was thin and went into the crevice

File: IMG_2368.jpg (1.8 MB)

Scimitars WIP

>>98124468
Very cool paintjob anon. Good job!

>>98124698
Thank you Golden demon-sama

>>98124570
Why is it cut out like that.. 0.0 spooked me

File: bird up.jpg (713.3 KB)

Working on that dumb bird right now.
I don't know what colour I should use for the skin parts, tried some greyish tint but it's not growing on me.
Also don't know if I like the red/blue/green proportions or if I should increase/decrease some of them.

Say anon, whats that special colour you use in almost every single paintjob that you feel like its magic in a pot?

>>98124685
That's exactly what I was wondering about, because I have a bottle of nail polish remover on hand to save mine from glue incidents. I didn't think you'd want it thick in the first place, but I was curious about it.

>>98124910
AK Rubber Black and Grimy Grey.

File: macaw-header.jpg (88.1 KB)

>>98124905
Almost white with thin black striping would complete the macaw look you mostly already have there. Mite be cool.

Oh whoops I just looked it up, the black stripes are for blue macaws. Here's a reference image so you can take some inspiration from nature.

>>98124910
A
K

W
I
N
E

R
E
D

>>98124934
based

>>98124928
Thanks.
Yeah Macaw is what I was going for with the colors (and now I noticed that I switched the green and the blue, fuck) for the plumage, I was thinking about going more skin color for the humanoid parts but I guess going all-in on the bird look is easier.
Also fuck the death of the internet, image search is now filled with shitty AI pictures

>>98124910
The paints I use in basically every model I paint are
>AK smoke black
>PA bold titanium white
>TTC carcharodon grey
>TTC shadow blue

File: 20260529.png (1.6 MB)

>>98115700
First mini ever vs the latest piece around a year later.

>>98124910
Gelatinous blue from the D&D army painter pack.
It's a really really light grey with a slight blue hue, and it works great for any type of edge lighting

>>98122756
There are exactly two methods that work for plastic models.
1. Put it in the freezer for a few hours making the superglue brittle, carefully snap the part off and then clean it up with a knife.
2. In any circumstance where that doesn't work or the part you want to remove is too delicate, give up because all the alternatives that will dissolve glue will also dissolve your mini.

>>98124976
i want some quar

>>98125030
Then buy or print some, they ain't hard to get.

>>98125030
These are mine, get your own

>>98125010
I've personally frozen CA glued thermoplastic and plastic resin, the former turning into a brittle pencil eraser that broke up into pieces under any force of separation. I would like to get some of this debinder to test if it does ruin siocasts because the freezer method can be a death sentence for them if you do wish to separate them.

The debinder seems to be only useful for metal though so this experiment might wait until I have a siocast that needs disassembly. Thanks for chiming in though.

>>98125058
>guy selling quar in the local miniature sale listings
>box of like 20 standard infantrymen
>almost buy them but painting 20 of them sounds like hell

Do they sell STL's? are they worth getting? I want to paint like 1 or 2 only cause they're kind of cute

>>98125086
I don't know if the STLs are sold officially but zombiesmith does sell printed versions of a lot of stuff that doesn't have plastics yet so you can get just two or three that way.

>>98125112
I ask because i own a resin printer and have printed lots of stuff of telegram but I can't find any quar on there so I guess I need to buy the file if possible

>>98125086
>Do they sell STL
yes, there are three STL only factions up on https://www.myminifactory.com/users/joshqualtieri
Maebwysh, Ergydiwr and Tollyn

>>98125086
oops sent >>98125123 too early
wanted to add that there are also a bunch of one-off models too
if you want just 1-2 models then search for "Quar Event Models" on the myminifactory page

Bruh I want to paint very vivid and saturated minis yet I keep ending with desaturated and realistic ones.
Am I retarded?

>>98125174
No, maybe just too easily distracted or worried about messing it up if you don't do it right. Try going ham on a test model without worrying about the end result, pushing the ideas that are closest to what you want rather than what you are used to go going for.

>>98125174
>>98125192
Also you can't say that and not post an example. How are we supposed to tell if you've messed up if you don't show us what you made.

>>98115736
that weathered metal is *chefs kiss*
>>98116123
that's some huge hopium fuel. the power fist guy is great
>>98124976
definitely a huge improvement in basics and details

always nice to see progress through the years

File: Sorc collage.png (1.1 MB)

I recently did inventory of my bits and various unused models and concluded I have enough stuff to build a 2000 pts chaos army for 6th edition warhammer fantasy. I mostly just have random hero models, plus two units of old unchback warriors and some bloodletters. It will be the slowest moving but hardest hitting 2000 pts ever

>picrel: First testmodel painted. 5th edition (?) sorcerer
>Unsure if chaos warriors should have yellow armour like his robes or just silvery metal, gold and green like his shoulders

File: 20260529_151935.jpg (860.8 KB)

>>98115700
closest I can do, 2 year difference

>>98125261
seraphanon you are doing the lord's work

>>98115840
Probably late to this but it's a single tactical marine (or whatever the fuck they call them now). Just varnish over it and take it as a learning experience. Nobody will ever pay enough attention to that shoulder pad to notice or care.

>>98125222
>>98125261
Holy kino

Anyone know a good tutorial for making banners and flags at 28mm scale? Ideally text and images, not video.

>heaps of models to paint
>can't stop thinking about how to customize + build the one batch of unassembled troops.
>can't stop thinking about building and acquiring more models for my faction
Truly

>>98125457
Building miniatures is more immediately rewarding than painting them, sadly.

>>98125461
no?

File: banners.jpg (156.7 KB)

>>98125453
>cut 3 pieces of brass tube
>solder them into a T
>cut a platicard rectangle or whatever shape
>with a hot air gun, stove, space heater or boiling water, bend the plasticard to shape
>attach plasticard to brass pole
>add any other decoration
>drill model hand/backpack or whatever
>glue thinner brass in there
>slide tube over (glue optional)
>paint

but anon, heat is dangerous
>buy lead/tin sheet and bend it by hand

but anon im poor
>use paper
>coat in diluted pva

but anon i cant paint
>print banner on paper, colored or outlined
>fill color in
>glue on plasticard or use as above

but anon fuck brass
>use wooden meat skewers
>cut 2 pieces
>file a groove in the middle of one of them
>glue

File: brass.png (1.3 MB)

>>98125503
and the T shaped one for infrantry

>>98125261
damn these look good.

what's your process?

I have a couple questions about Contrast paints.
>What exactly are they?
I know they're not regular acryllics because of whatever medium they have, but I've also heard them referred to as being more like dyes.
>What happens if you thin with water or regular acrylic medium?
Do they still function right or do they break up in some way? Like if I want to glaze with one do I have to thin it with contrast medium?
Thanks /wip/.

>>98125503
Thank you for this. Leaning towards the wood skewers because I already have them in the house.

>>98125559
>What exactly are they?
Like washes that also tint the raised surfaces
>What happens if you thin with water or regular acrylic medium?
They tint less and the effect is milder.
They can be thinned with water or with their specific medium.

Also I think you could've watched any video featuring them to get an idea about what they are and how they behave.

>>98125559
They behave a bit like an ink, so it stains the model quickly and is transparent. I don't like using them much, but they can be nice if thinned down a lot since they can make for good glazes, applying a filter of colour without much effort.

You can thin it down with water/either, yeah, works just fine. Contrast medium is... interesting. It's a bit more working time than water, but it is also not completely clear, so it can make your colour a bit paler than intended if you use a lot of it. It can also gum up a bit if applied too thickly.

Main use case for contrast medium is 50/50 mix with ultramatte varnish for a nice more matte than satin finish and very easy application

>>98125562
NTA, but I would really go out and buy some brass tubes/rods. They are such a fantastic model tool.

>>98125604
I've got a local RC stuff store that might carry them, or is that a hardware store type thing?

>>98125612
a brass tube is a brass tube. You can get a dedicate scale model ones (AK makes them, for example), but if you can get source them elsewhere, it's the same thing.

File: 1780066946358.png (210.2 KB)

>>98125612
most hobby stores should have them, hardware stores might be harder at this size
we are talking about 1mm rods and 1.5/2mm tubes with a 1mm hole

get a tube cutter that can cut down to 1mm while you are at it

File: banner_group_ooge.jpg (1.5 MB)

>>98125503
>print banner on paper, colored or outlined
At the dawn of the Dark Age of Technology, I used a photocopier to reduce the size of the official Blood Angels Chapter Banner, glued it to the front of some heavier paper, and mounted it on the bosspole for the Second Edition Space Marine Standard Bearer. It's one of the nicer bosspoles I have.

>>98125648
just cut them with some pliers lmao

File: back_banners.jpg (257.0 KB)

>>98125657
The other bosspoles are a mixture of hand-drawn - usually with Sakura Micron Pens - and waterslide transfers, some with a combination of both.

>>98125640
>>98125612
Thanks. I'll check my hobby store. Looking to spice up my fantasy/medieval stuff.

File: Oil Progress.jpg (410.0 KB)

>>98115700
Thought I had a picture of my first boy on this computer but I guess not. Got him sitting here so I can grab one later. Instead my first model I painted with oil to one of my killteam guys. Kruleboy is a basic wash and some highlights blended on top of acrylic basecoats, the boy is all oil over acrylic bright ivory.

>>98125661
that leaves like 1-2mm of bent tube that you have to file away
for pinning is totally fine, if its gonna ve visible not so much
tools exists for a reason (usually), and cheap as shit ones are also usually worth it

File: 20260520_034013.jpg (2.7 MB)

>>98125513
>>98125453
Brass rod is good, Feels very strong

File: nurgle-banner.png (2.0 MB)

>>98125664
>>98125657
Beautiful , I love banners like this. I never liked the thick sculpted ones. Have some more kino on the house :)

Question to those, who use AK paints - how much thinning is required for typical airbrush application with those? I just want to know the good starting point.

File: veronica.png (663.3 KB)

>>98125559
if you use too much water they tend to break up and coffee stain your minis. If you use them a lot then it's worth getting the medium to make better glazes out of them

The first wave of GW contrast paints are like really strong washes that tint the raised areas and darken the crevices of your mini. Their second wave of behaves way more like inks. Magmadroth flame and black legion are perfect examples. they're super pigmented.

other companies make similar products by different names but I don't use them. Snakebite leather is good for fur. I also like guilliman flesh over off-white or beige colors for varying skin tones. Don't be a scrub and paint entire models with just contrast paint. It's not even an "I'm a better painter than you" type of elitism, contrast minis look tacky and ugly.

Pic rel has snakebite leather on the lighter section of her rags.

File: greensaurus.png (3.8 MB)

>>98126009
>>98125559
I should also mention that on this mini the darker parts of the clothing are done with a wave 2 contrast paint, Garaghak's sewer. You can see that it's much much darker and has less "contrast" than the lighter parts, which were done with a wave 1 contrast paint that has more color variation. I think the face has some watered down guilliman flesh but idrk.

I usually don't paint my minis entirely in contrast paint but this fig was actually perfect for it and I think it came out better. This guy I did years ago with 2 contrast paints for the scaley back

>>98126002
I use them pretty much exclusively for airbrushing (I own nearly 100 AK paints at this point), and 1:1 is generally enough for regular application. With brighter tones, I thin more, 1:2. For detailing, I thin even more, and add a lot of flow improver/retarder.
I'm using Vince's mix (8/2 thinner/flow improver mix), btw.

>>98126022
>>98126009
Yea I would disagree that contrast only model has to look tacky and ugly. Depends on the skill of the user. I first tested contrast over drybrush on an ork boy and it looked fine, and only 20mins of painting. But generally yes contrast only tends to match a kind of lazy spirit in the paint job, like omitting painting many details, only using like 3 colours (not mixing)

>>98124707
>>98124586
the wiles of tzeentch will infect your PC

>>98125117
there is a quar group if you ask around enough in the usual places, anon, i'll keep an eye out for you.

>>98125222
Where that sorc from?

File: drtdrtjdrtj.jpg (124.6 KB)

>Contrast looks ba-ACK

Banner update: I brought it up to my mom, who sews, and she recommends using some scraps of silk she has, stiffened with glue and painted. So I'll try that out, will keep yall updated.

File: 640045488_71eb0934-3978-407a-a5dc-16494f820c13.jpg (35.4 KB)

>>98126303
Tab under the feet says GW 1997. So the same year as the Realm of chaos armybook. But there is no picture in the book so probably a later release. This is the only official-looking pic I found

File: banner.png (393.5 KB)

>>98126578
I ended up with steel rod rather than brass because it's what the shop had, and 3d printed up a block to hold two pieces together for vertical banners.

>>98126604
>3d printed up a block
Seriously? You needed to print something for that?

>>98126618
When you already have a printer and practice putting shapes together in 3D builder, it's a lot faster to assemble a file that way than to find some balsa wood and put holes in it

>>98126629
I have both resin and filament printers, all my minis from the last 5 years are printed and most I digitally kitbashed myself, 90% of my terrain is also printed.
But I'm still going to stand firm on calling you an idiot for going to the printer to get that, it's a waste of filament and traditional crafting solutions would have been better and better looking, that block is never going to look proper on a medieval banner like that. Hell, a bit of masking tape with a layer of glue brushed over it would have been better.

>>98126589
I did some searching and it looks like #3 from 5e and it WHF warriors of Chaos #87

File: PXL_20260525_132811925.PORTRAIT3.jpg (877.3 KB)

Some of my new barbarians. Painted ten of them in about 4 days which is super fast for me.

>>98126673
looks good - is this slapchop?

>>98126673
They look great for sloppa.

>>98126604
that's lazy
a better solution would have been to tie it with copper wire and glue
you could then paint the wire as rope and have it look like an actual thing

File: PXL_20260525_132640550.PORTRAIT3.jpg (441.0 KB)

>>98126688
Actually yes, tough this came just to my mind after I finished them. Dark grey foundation, white drybrushing, speedpaints for most of the areas and some minor details for the finishing touch (eyes, weathering, etc.)

File: 20260529_204531(1).jpg (2.6 MB)

Starting in on the scenic tyranid base for my space marine 2 diorama. I've got about 6 more gants to pile up, as well as adding texture and gore effects once everything dries.

Anyone know how to make convincing tyranid guts?

>>98126730
If I had thin gauge copper wire in the house I might've considered that, but I doubt it would've given me the rigidity I want.

File: pumpers.jpg (3.9 MB)

Had enough time to lock in and finish my jump marines

>>98126774
>If I had thin gauge copper wire in the house
open up an old touter transfomer or old motor

>>98126886
router*

>>98126886
>>98126888
>Spend a bunch of time tearing apart broken electronics that I don't have in the house already
or
>Spend five minutes fiddling in 3d builder and 2 minutes waiting for a print to finish

>>98126604
I did the same thing anon, don't worry about the bannerspergs

File: 20260529_211340.jpg (1.5 MB)

WiP of this Blackstar. Did the window earlier, happy enough with it.

Kinda fucked attempting to spray a light effect on the lights on the nose, but not so badly that I wont get something out of it.

Varnish next and a bit of oil washing after that.

Does AK have reactivation issues? I've had paint from them reactivate days after application when brush varnishing.

Its incredible the amount of dogshit content you can find if you are to search for 'miniature painting' on yt and filter by new.
The gall on some people

>cant paint to save their life
>ai dogslop video thumbnail
>no words
>not in focus/obscuring the miniature

bonus:
>meme techniques
>trying to act as a mentor when theyre incredibly bad themselves
>insincere content (they dont want to show anything cool or something that makes them proud, or actually teach something useful/innovative; they want to make CONTENT for the sake of content)
>boomer

>>98127012
No, they don't.

>>98127024
Go back.

>>98127028
Then why does the paint activate? Haven't had this issue with other brands.

>>98127012
Never ran into such problem myself. What kind of varnish you were using?

>>98127028
>No, they don't.
except they do, retard
https://youtu.be/4Mikz9IyAXc?t=805

>>98127053
Then you need to specify it's (some) Quick Gen paints. Is that too difficult for you?

>>98127073
away with you shill

>>98127191
Stop being braindead.

>>98126895
copper wire is useful for a lot more things, but if you can't source it you can't
no reason to half ass that thing tho

>>98127024
why is it like this when if you look at videos for model cars and planes there's tons of useful content?

>>98127284
Wargames are more popular, so there's more parasites.

File: IMG_20260529_170908_1.jpg (1.4 MB)

Got a bit more I wanna work on but I'll come back to them when I feel like working on them again

>>98127327
Right fuckin good so far. I think that's a wonderful color palette.

>>98127284
Scale models have always had a higher quality standard, because people are painting to paint. /wip/ is too, but for a lot of people it's
>this CRAZY paint hack gets your minis on the table FIVE MINUTES FASTER (just buy these paints I'll never mention again)

File: 1721737007097841.png (4.1 MB)

>>98127473
>>98127284
case in point

>>98127489
This just what youtube always looks like now

>muh youtube
That's very interesting, but what about you fuck off with that dogshit garbage to /v/ or something.

>>98127489
I would say Squidmar is a little better than those others.
On the other hand, Angel Giraldez has crazy good tutorials, as does Marco Frisoni. Maybe the brain rot spreads slower in Europe or something.
Rogue Hobbies has that amazing glazing tutorial.
>>98127511
There's plenty of creators with substance.
>>98127525
>youtube videos about painting
>this goes on the video game board
You would literally get jannied if you posted this there, cry about it.

>>98127531
>There's plenty of creators with substance.
Incorrect. If they had substance, they'd be producing written content, not videos. Videos are intrinsically bad.

>>98127531
>You would literally get jannied if you posted this there, cry about it.
As you would get jannie'd here, if someone snitched on you. Hence, fuck off.

>>98127536
>you can't talk about painting videos in the painting thread!
Report me then wise guy.