Linking for further suggestions
>>98131032

File: ifv wip2.jpg (1.5 MB)

Still needs some work, but nearly done with (non-metallic) acrylics. Now onto enamels, oils, more mud and foliage, camo netting, and more enamels.

>>98131970
Damn, I'd have believed you if you said you were done.
How do you get the scratches that fine? Just a really good brush?
What's the difference between enamels and oils in your workflow? I would guess streaks and pinwashing but it looks like you already did that.

>>98131958
I've become a great fan of Alizarin Crimson recently. That, viridian green, burnt and raw umber, and phthalo blue red and green shades are often pretty useful to me

>>98131958
Averland Sunset is a color that comes up a lot, and I'm pretty sure it's yellow oxide which is also well regarded in art paints. It's an opaque semi-yellow.
It might be an oversight but I don't see pure white, which, while frustrating, is a workhorse if you mix any paint whatsoever. If you find GW whites bad, Golden makes the best white fluid acrylic IMO.
I don't see any blues on your list and I don't really disagree. No disrespect to the other anon but I'm not a fan of the phthalos.
As far as black, Black Legion contrast is also highly regarded.
Lastly, some sort of copper or bronze metal. Get opaque turquoise alongside it so you can paint verdigris.

File: Polishing Wood In A Suggestive Manner For a Chuckle.gif (2.6 MB)

>>98131970
Nice.

File: colour scheme idea.png (709.0 KB)

>>98132148
I've got White Scar, Corax White, Ulthuan Grey, and Pallid Wych Flesh.
Averland Sunset looks too vibrant to be a yellow iron oxide. I suspect it's organic, possibly with a transparent TiO2 coating, as I've seen something similar in the industry.
As far as blues go I've got Dark Reaper and Kantor Blue (and the lighter shades of those colours). Just got Sotek Green and Temple Guard blue.
Runelord Brass is great, especially with washes that can tweak the colour.
Pic related inspired me to try phthalo greens.

File: if I take that off will you die.png (1.2 MB)

>>98131970
will you install a cope cage?

File: file.png (929.0 KB)

some early progress on metal kharn

>>98131573
Those bases are fantastic. Mine sharing how you made em?

>>98132685
Cool, the old metal model?

>>98133084
Yeah, got him off ebay a while back

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>>98132685

File: 20260531_011125.jpg (1.2 MB)

Managed to undo that fuck up on the lenses, still a bit more to do to them to tidy them up. Happy enough tho.

File: 20260531_015823.jpg (1.3 MB)

I normally don't post built pics, but i figured i would with these.

A squad of kitbashed Deathwatch marines. The bodies are from 5 stormcast eternals, the set was in a magazine that cost like 8 pounds. I watched a grimdark compendium vid ages ago where one of them made a great job of converting a stormcast body for a death company blood Angel, looked great. Made me want to try it myself.

The heads and arm bits were given by a friend. The shoulders were spare from a previous project, and the power packs were 2 quid off Ebay.

So a DW squad for about 10 quid. Weapons are accurate to the data sheet too. Fair amount of converting obviously, but i like it so far.

Found two old custom mixed painting pots marked "Wonder wash", anyone remember the recipe? I think it had Reikland flesh in it and one or two other GW washes?

>>98133179
It looks like they skipped leg day with the stormcast legs desu, I do love the chained aquila shield however

>>98133185
That's because you're used to megaman legs.

>>98133196
I'm used to the old manlets anon.

>>98133185
>>98133196
>>98133179
I agree. they look too top heavy. At least scale down the printed shoulder pads to 90 or 95%

Has someone found the Stahly pdf to be wildly inaccurate with some colours?

>>98133218
idk what ur talking about but I use this one
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

File: Screenshot_20260531_094530_YouTube.jpg (125.6 KB)

>>98133213
Yeah, i hear you. Ill take it into consideration when I do more to them. The bodies are push fit, so there was a significant amount material to remove to locate and articulate the arms. Green stuff etc. The shoulder pads are doing a lot of heavy lifting to cover that conversion work. The pads arent glued yet so still have the choice to pare down the overall chest width.

I like the legs, kinda have to appeal is the fitted medieval look to them.

Here's a screen grab from the vid that prompted me to try it out.

>>98132829
used tea leaves and dried oregano. sieve out the dust and small particles first, and aim for a light coat. underneath is just stirland mud with minimal drybrushing. the branches are part of the models.

>>98133218
I just blame my monitor settings. Or the companies that change the paint recipes unannounced between batches (GW).

>>98133218
in representing actual color or in the comparison?

>>98133253
that is useless

>>98133467
>monitor settings
for that reason it's not a tool to see actual color, it's a tool to compare colors

>>98133539
representing color
for example take Dead Red, for me in the pdf it looks INCREDIBLY vibrant and saturated
but irl is just another pink

File: repifv.jpg (2.5 MB)

>>98132123
>How do you get the scratches that fine? Just a really good brush?
A fine tip brush (Rosemary & Co Series 33 size 0), and a very soft touch. But it's kinda the dumbass way of doing it, you can make finer, better-looking scratches (a lot faster, too) by actually scratching it with something like an old airbrush needle after using Worn Effects or any similar chipping fluid.
>What's the difference between enamels and oils in your workflow?
I do weathering in multiple layers. The first one is usually darker streaks done by airbrush as a part of pre-shading. Second is doing actual streaks with enamels (most often just SG) for sharper outline. Then I do acrylic weathering (scratches, chips). (This is the point I took the pic) Then, enamels for rain marks, oil residue, do the usual three-layer mud speckling (dusty dried > fresher brown > dark brown with added pigment/texture for the freshest mud). Then I start with oil dots for filters. You can add more contrast that way, or make stuff look even older, dustier. It also kind of ties everything together. It's not required, but it can help a lot.

>>98132157
Thanks!

>>98132412
Not planning on adding The Grill, but there will be some slat armor on the sides, picrel.

>>98133218
Not really. But I had an issue with Vallejo Luftwaffe Green in the past. It was a lot brighter for me than in the swatch, but it ended up being a bad bottle. Later, I got a replacement, and it was a perfect match. I can imagine this going both ways; either you or Stahly getting a bad batch. He made corrections to the swatch in the past, so it can definitely happen.

>>98133552
>representing color
then you are using it wrong, it's not meant for that, you would need to have a color correct calibrated monitor and probably a file with a color profile

>INCREDIBLY vibrant and saturated
are you using an oled phone?

>>98133257
why does he have a breathing pump installed?

File: IMG_4588 2.png (642.5 KB)

Test models for 30k Ultramarines army 90% done

Tried out a full metal backpack & bolter to switch things up - quite like how it looks and it speeds up painting so much but not 100% sold on it.

File: IMG_0942.jpg (3.4 MB)

this might be my favourite head i've painted so far

File: Its-maam-meme-9.jpg (26.3 KB)

>>98133822
Is this a reference?

>>98133652
If i remember right its a blood supply to offset the red thirst.

https://youtu.be/uEq93PdEUyw?si=SiSiwFRSZce6Db0C

The guy gets into it in the video.

File: 20260531_131905.jpg (1.9 MB)

Finished the bishop/cardinal.

File: 20260531_133713.jpg (1.5 MB)

Discovered the Expert RAW app for my Samsung today and I'm finally able to take decent photos. Jesus, I feel like retaking the photos of everything I've ever painted.

File: 20260531_132802.jpg (1.2 MB)

The mini comes battle-damaged like this, did my best to follow tips I was given by an anon here.

>>98133153
That is some good good.

>>98133132
nice have fun painting him

Today's spontaneous project due to rain is updating all this terrain with green mossy patches to match the 3 older pieces.

File: Scatter 2.jpg (2.0 MB)

>>98134360
Fuck.

File: Scatter 1.jpg (942.4 KB)

>>98134367
And these modular wall sections.

>>98133584
>Rosemary & Co
This guy's playing chess while we're all playing checkers.

>>98133912
That's unfortunate because that kind of tube is used for air, not liquids.

>>98134454
NTA but I feel like Rosemaries are pretty popular among anons in this thread

Do I actually need to cover models in gloss varnish before applying decals (or at least the sections that will receive the decals) or they will adhere just fine to matte paint surface?

>>98134624
You don't need to do it (unless you are planning to use some decal solution), but you should. You can also just varnish places where decals will be.

>>98134371
How'd you make the walls? They look very regular.

>>98134109
Dirt on the skirt looks good, anon.

>>98134109
It really makes you cognizant of how airbrushed and fake things are. I wish I was /g/ enough to get all the AI filters to fuck off, but ERAW makes you actually appreciate your work, warts and all.

>>98134806
What the fuck are you even talking about.

>>98134813
I'm saying that the automatic filters you're not even aware are being applied to your photos make everything look artificial, and I wish I could turn them all off without so many hoops to jump through. Wasn't that hard to comprehend, anon.

>>98134734
They're 3D prints from thingiverse files, and they are just primed black, based grey, drybrushed white as is everything else.
The crypt is also printed and the other pieces are chunks of styrofoam, the 3 older pieces that already have moss are reaper terrain and the bridge is aquarium decor.

>>98134852
>Wasn't that hard to comprehend
yes it was
around here parts we usually use open camera to bypass those said filters

>>98134852
Use Open Camera, as other anon said. Better yet, use OC, and shoot in raw, since that tends to disable all the garbage filters. It's less difficult than trying to understand that rambling post of yours, anon.

>>98134806
>>98134813
>>98134852
>>98134889
>>98134914
Relax nerds, you're all in agreement.

File: IMG_20260531_200334~2.jpg (154.4 KB)

Do they look like ginger hair now?

>>98133179
lmao this looks absolutely awful

>>98135042
post your work, faggot.

Ah, schizo hours, of course.

>>98134995
Ginger typically refers to bright orange hair, so I'd say no. It's more of an auburn.

>>98135092
So, even more orange? Or just add yellow?

File: 20260531_194820.jpg (932.1 KB)

Kitbashing in progress.

I need paints (single pigment) for:
-quinacridone pink
-pyrrole orange

anyone knows which ones? id prefer not having to buy a large artist-grade pot

>>98135118
It depends on what you're going for. If you want something like 100% Irish orange ginger, then probably a bright orange for highlights. Do you have reference you're going for or are you just winging it?

File: IMG_20260531_204100~2.jpg (1.4 MB)

>>98135134
Just winging it. To be honest, I had no real idea about what kind of hair color I want, just went with "ginger" since her dominant colors of armor is black, red and white markings. Might as well settle for this auburn you mentioned.

How many times would you paint over a face before considering it might be time to strip away at least some of the layers? I've gone over one a few times with thin layers and I really have to start over on it because it looks awful. But I don't want to get partway through and find texture buildup or shit in the deepest details.
If I do need to strip it, I'll just carefully brush over it with IPA to get rid of some of the paint. Not down to the primer.

>>98135131
By the way, the search for paints with those pigments led me to find people painting minis with gouache.
Do you guys have experience with them? I assume they reactivate, but other than that do you think theyre a good idea?

File: barrelform 3.png (672.0 KB)

With the completion of this skeleton sniper I have finished everything in my work area that I had any motivation to work on
See you all in a month maybe

>>98135144
I think I would have gone with something a bit brighter to contrast with the armor. Maybe a bright blonde or, if you want to go really anime with it, something in the blue range to contrast the red armor.

What are the "necessary" skin colors to have? I just realized that I really only have the tools on hand to paint extremely pale or undead skin (Griffon Claw, Flayed One) or to do a shitty contrast job. I have almost nothing in the normal living range of skin besides Bugmans Glow.
Any recommendations for a more "complete" range of skintone paints?

>>98135219
Girlyman flesh contrast

>>98135189
I'm not a fan of blue hair but I will consider the blonde option. Don't really want to strip the paint at this point, however. But thanks.

what advantage do paints marketed specifically for miniature painting have over generic ones from golden or liquitex? are they not the same pigments but with normal names instead of neckbeardy ones?

>>98135144
that's just unit 02's color scheme and asuka's hair color

>>98135260
>are they not the same pigments
No.

>>98134758
Thanks, just two thinned glaze layers.
>>98134806
The expert raw mode isn't actually hard to use tho, not sure why it isn't standard.

If the rabid AP hater/AK palette lover is ITT I have a question. I've found after using the AK palette that the paper is super hydrophobic, like to the point where it kinda feels like wax paper. Paint beads up at practically any consistency instead of only when it's fairly thinned out. How do you deal with this? I find it makes it difficult to thin paints in a controlled way and causes way more paint to wick up into the brush when I'm mixing, making a lot of waste since I can't get that paint back out of the brush onto the palette paper.

File: 6F5D0134-E668-4B49-917F-ABC094158E27.jpg (328.1 KB)

I bought some clear thermoplastic from amazon to make greenstuff casts, but I think they could make some pretty cool and low effort ice bases with the right molds.

Also, what do you do with failed greenstuff casts and other bits like that?

What colours would you use for a deep magenta that highlights to an almost neon pink? I wanna contrast it with cyan.
What citadel paints would be equivalent?

>>98135295
>Paint beads up at practically any consistency instead of only when it's fairly thinned out
Huh, that's weird, that's the first time I'm hearing this. What paints are you using? Thinking about it, I can imagine something like PA being overly sensitive to thinning on a wet palette, but I never had an issue with AK, Vallejo, or even Citadel.
Is the sponge wet enough? My general approach is to put the sponge inside the wet palette, pour water until it's completely wet, then pour the water out, and apply the paper, pushing it firmly into the sponge. You could also try to spread/spray a little water over the paper if it changes anything. Don't let it bead, rub it into that bitch.
Also, how much water are you using to thin your paints? Depending on how much paint (and what paint and color) you are mixing, it only takes very little. This is where super hydrophobic comes to play; it keeps the paint together and lets you mix it very precisely. But if you add too much water, it's all ogre. From experience, AK paints take very little water to thin. I often thin them with just a wet brush.

Anyway, I shilled the AK palette to multiple anons who bought it since then, and everyone was happy with it, so I'm sure we can solve this.
t. rabid AP hater

>>98135351
>Also, what do you do with failed greenstuff casts and other bits like that?
Basing bits, duh.

>>98135292
so what is the difference?

>>98135436
Anon isn't likely a chemist.

>>98135445
so he knows they are different but doesn't know how?

>>98135436
You can find out yourself in around 20 seconds on google dot com, faggot

>>98135446
Yeah, you got a problem wrapping your head around that? there's lot's of shit you can tell is not other shit that you are simultaneously unable to describe the workings of.

File: IMG20260531214005.jpg (2.4 MB)

>>98131913

Finally added basing for my dred.

>>98135457
these solid white "snow" bases always look like utter shit.
If you can't do snow, do anything else, even plain drybrush grey sand would be better.

>>98135456
so what makes you sure that they're different then?

>>98135436
NTA but mainly two: hobby paints have smaller pigment density and different viscosity/flow because they are designed to provide smooth, thin coats over small details on miniatures and support glazing/layering techniques while "artist" paints are designed to work on canvas (already rought surface) and large areas, providing thick layers and strong coverage. They are two slightly different tools designed for different purposes.

>>98135469
What did he do wrong and how can he do it better?

>>98135469
stop speaking about things you know nothing about and pretending you've got any sort of authority on the matter subhuman

What kind of finish is better for "stockings" type of material - gloss or satin?

>>98135474
is this the case even for paints called fluid or high flow?

Obviously the snow is still wet and more stuff will be done when its dry?

>>98135503
Satin

>>98135517
Snow is always wet.

>>98135351
Your pic brings me back. Several years back I tried casting a Dark Eldar "Upgrade sprue" with all the special weapons and reaver helmets using both Oyumaru and even silicon+resin and both ended in abject failure. Wishing you luck.
Failed casts can always be used as basing detritus.

>>98135514
From my experience, yes. "Artist" paints like Liquitex are not designed for miniatures with large amount of tiny details as they tend to easily drown them. There is a reason why scale models paints are separate category and it's not about trying to sell same product twice.

>>98134367
>>98134371
The terrain back on the table with the "moss" done.

File: IMG_20260531_141358.jpg (2.5 MB)

>>98135549
I've got to stop doing this.

riddle me this, AK shill
why the fuck do the tips of my ak pots fucking split
only brands that do it for me
not chink droppers
not vallejo (neither old nor new bottles)
not ap
only ak

>>98135561
nta but skill issue, unironically

>>98135563
>heh, the fact that only the brand I shill seems to have a problem surely means the user is the problem, despite using the same product from other brands without issues

>>98135373
>What paints are you using?
I use Citadel, AK, Pro Acryl, and TTC
>Is the sponge wet enough?
I typically with hold it under the faucet until fully soaked, place it in the container, then add a touch more so that there's enough that it will flow around under the sponge when I tilt it.
>how much water are you using to thin your paints?
Not much. A lot of the time it's enough to just pull a small amount of paint away from the main body of paint with a moist brush and that small amount of paint will bead.
It's especially frustrating when trying to thin down alot for glazes since the brush will just soak it all up while I'm mixing the water in. I consider an improvement over the AP palette, but it's had a bit of a learning curve desu

>>98135561
That's happened a lot to my Vallejo paints.

What's the optimal air humidity and temperature inside for wet palettes?

>>98135457
The snow base does look very plain as is. You could dry adding blood from that dead marine soaking into the slow. You might also try adding footprints behind the model that go down to the dirt/grass underneath to add some variety and show the weight of the model crunching through snow. Anything that breaks up the pure whiteness of it to add a little interest.

>>98135561
>ak pots
What the fuck is that.

Seriously though, I'm probably the biggest AK shill itt, and out of nearly 100 AK paints I own, only two tips split. One arrived like that from the store, and other I left caked with paint. So, from a massive sample of one (1), I would say keep them clean, and that includes paint in bottle caps. Also, store them out of sun.
Anyway, it sometimes happens, no matter what brand. I have few split tips with AP paints, some with chink replacement bottles I bought a few years ago, and I have about three with Vallejo, too.

>>98135603
Humid and cool.

>>98135584
You let paint dry in the tip and squeezed the bottle without cleaning it with a toothpick or a paperclip beforehand, you fucking dumbass. As I said, skill issue.

>>98135642
>my superior product requires maintenance which other brands dont, just so it doesnt fuck itself up
wew, you really thing you did something there didnt youw

>>98135655
He's right, though. ALL dropper bottles will get fucked eventually if you keep the paint dry in the tips.

>>98135655
>other brands don't
weird way to out yourself as a paintlet, feel free to go back anytime

>>98135561
i have had this happen with ak bottles, and old vallejo ones, also had some screw caps break at the top from some vallejos
fwiw ak customer uspport offered to drop bunch of caps for free on 'my next order' but there's no reason to order from them since third party stores usually have them discounted, so not very useful

File: skin.jpg (12.9 KB)

>>98135219
pink, yellow, brown. I do all my healthy human skintones with these three. pink or brown base coat, then add in the neutral yellowish tone for highlights. finish with a thin wash in sepia or deeper red-brown in the recesses.

>>98135219
Squidmar says Cadian Fleshtone and Doombull brown. That should get you your shadows and mid tones. You can then blend Flayed One with Cadian Fleshtone for highlights.

File: IMG20260601003237.jpg (2.6 MB)

Interesting results from masking fluid so far

>>98135988
That's how it usually goes.

>>98135988
why not use camo putty instead?

>>98135988
>>98136194
Why not just paint only the places you want to be each colour?!

Are there any standard GW paints that are still worth getting over other alternatives?

>>98135162
Any idea what the next project will be?

>>98135551
You're contributing to the thread, its all good.

>>98136380
I meant forgetting to attach the image to my posts.

>>98136299
Can't think of any. Especially not for the asking price.

>>98136424
Its all good, I'd rather have a mispost than disingenuous shitflinging and fun posting any day.

>>98136299
wraithbone, word bearers red and lahmian medium are basically the only GW paints i still use. there are others but when those pots run out they'll be replaced with other brands

>>98136366
I dunno, I still have a couple bodies from the sprues I used for these guys, maybe I'll hack together a model of the protagonist from strange journey

>>98136299
i've liked nuln oil, but black speedpaint in a 1:2 with speedpaint medium is nearly the same on metal and not glossy so I'm slowly switching over to that.

>>98135474
>smaller pigment density
u wot
>smooth, thin coats over small details on miniatures and support glazing/layering techniques
Artists famously never use thin coats or glaze
>>98135533
>"Artist" paints like Liquitex are not designed for miniatures with large amount of tiny details as they tend to easily drown them.
Did you not thin it? Do you not thin your miniature paints?
>>98135514
The real difference:
Artist paints:
>Tend to be single pigment or a handful of pigments (a hue)
>can be glossy, satin or matte
>tend to have whatever opacity the pigment naturally has, which varies
>high pigment density, except for student acrylics
Mini paints:
>Mystery meat pigment mixes
>usually matte
>formulated to be opaque except for contrast paints and glazes
>high pigment density except for washes

File: Sisters.png (6.5 MB)

After weeks of painting, I have painted one Battle Sisters squad as my first complete unit.

>>98137299
Treasure your first unit, and keep them as a testament to how you started.
However, you might want to use washes and basing material as you go on.

>>98137299
Nice scheme, white was a bold choice for a first squad as it's horrible to work with. Also thin thine paints.

Gonna prime a dozen marine heads to practice face painting on. Ideally the process doesn't make me want to kill myself and I actually enjoy the learning.

>>98137299
Congratulations! Could you show us one model and focus the camera on it close upsi we can see the details, that way we might be able to give you some more accurate pointers.

File: Untitled.jpg (247.7 KB)

>>98137274
so why shouldn't I just look at this list and pick out the paints I want based on the colors and properties I'm looking for instead of relying on "beastman urine yellow" or "rusty non-ferrous metal?"

I finished my death korps squad, was pretty fun to build. I still have some leftover bits like grenades and pouches that I'll probably throw on before I paint, which is also when I'm gonna do the detailing like bullet dents and tears in their uniforms.
I'm still wondering what I should paint them as though. I originally wanted to do some iron warrior themed traitor guard paint scheme but I think it will look boring without any evil bits on them. I do like hazard stripes so I was thinking maybe orange hazard stripes with a dark blue for the overcoats and then normal metallic and brown for everything else. I probably should have settled on something before I cut all the imperial eagles off everything but oh well.

File: 20260531_231549.jpg (445.2 KB)

Im such a fat fucking chud forgot the image

>>98137668
People are conflating "artist paint" with heavy body acrylics(which you can use if you thin or spread them anyhow, even being good for wetblending) and ignoring stuff like golden soflat thats essentially the same thickness of mini paint and the desired matte finish most painters want.

>>98137668
I do exactly that. Their paint mixer program is awesome too.
Even with this huge selection of pigments, you might find yourself mixing a lot because there's only so many pigments, and there's also some that are toxic, and once you know what pigments are in what you'll see some are redundant.
>>98137703
I use fluid and high flow, it's easier to record color recipes because of the dropper bottles, plus SoFlat doesn't have as many pigments and leans on the cadmiums for some reason.
The matte finish of individual paints doesn't matter to me because you can always varnish.

>>98137747
Thinking of painting by base rims brown since I think it will look better than black on the table. But how durable will Mr hobby top coat be on that? Since the base sticks out, and is most likely to be scratched.

>>98137769
Never used that but the primer matters a lot too.

>>98137747
I use a mix of fluid and soflat, i transfer my soflat into flip top dropper bottles. I personally dont like working with glossy paint during the highlighting process but some fluid matte medium or super matte medium makes it workable. I dont use the cadmiums from soflat despite owning them, much prefer the bismuth yellow, naphol red light and pyrolle red. I mix my own convience colors with a mix of soflat and fluid, like my medium high coverage yellow is a mix of bismuth yellow and diaryhlide yellow. Either way, can't really go wrong with goldens stuff, i use it as much as I can and freely mix between using those and my hobby brand paint.

>>98137790
It's so different from my workflow but I like it, that's cool.

>>98136299
I still like Mephiston Red but there's probably many good alternatives. Runelord Brass is also an interesting metal color, even if it's not really brass.

>>98137668
That level of autism is simply not needed for miniature painting. Get the paint that is available to you

You are responsible for the colors on your models.

>>98137896
this. its literally the midwit bell curve meme. PUT PAINT ON MODEL THAT IS ALL

>>98137896
I can get golden paint from hobby lobby and it comes in big ass bottles compared to toy brands

>>98133213
It's 40k, anon. Importance is directly proportional to and is displayed by pauldron size. Deathwatch is important enough to warrant hero sized pauldrons.

File: 020134.jpg (214.4 KB)

I probably am about done with this now. There's a blue spot on the white facepaint from the hair that I have to clean up that I forgot this last session. but nothing other than that. There's no way I'm going in and fixing up the pattern to be perfectly consistent. I've got to try and make a point if I do a fabric pattern again to be really careful about getting everything consistent from the start, especially if I've already shaded the volumes and can't easily go in and fix it up afterwards.

I like paint that dries just a bit more slowly than most modern hobby paints because I am not very good at blending and the longer drying time makes it easier, but the trend for hobby paints seems to be pre-thinned super fast drying paints. What are some paints that dry slower while still having good pigmentation?

>>98137969
heavy body paints is what you want.

>>98137914
That's good for you. I've never seen that brand, and certainly won't bother to Google for it. My toy paint is enough for my toy models.

>>98137966
..big gazongazonks, clown pussy, clown pussy, clown pussy!

>>98131958
Since I see you listing GW colors:
Kabalite Green for your teal
Other GW colors I like: Bugmans Glow, Warplock Bronze, Barraknar Burgundy, Karak Stone

Soooo
Gouache for minis, yeah or nah?
Not talking about acrylic gouache.

>>98138089
Who cares?

>>98138105
I care. I want to hear from anons that used them.

>>98137966
It's well painted. Not a fan of clowns, though. I'm curious, did you print a few of these busts and are trying out different styles or techniques on them? I remember the last girl with the greyish blue shirt and assume you are the same anon. This makes me wonder what you'll cook up next. Nice work.

>>98138089
I've never touched them in my life, from what I've seen from the people trying them their main selling point seems to be they can be reactivated by water and are touted as a "oil paint style paint without the solvents"

What I don't understand is why that would be something you want as then any painting done on top of the gouche would get reactivated?

>>98137299
Weeks for a thick basecoat? every single part of those looks to need shading and highlighting

>>98138279
NTA, but not everyone has the same amount of time to work on daily, and it seems it's an anon's first attempt at an army.

>>98136299
Never seen a paint elsewhere like Warplock Bronze.

>>98137299
do something to the bases, even if its just green grass or mud paste, everything looks so much better with finished bases even with the bare minimum effort on them

File: backshot.jpg (244.0 KB)

>>98136299
I use Rakarth Flesh to highlight AK Reddish Grey. Wish it wasn't quite so thin and didn't dull down so much it dries, but it's the best option I've found. TTC supposedly makes a near match but they're very expensive.

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Im losing my mind anons
Is there any colour that comes even close to opera rose?
Is fluo magenta the only option?

File: pink.jpg (39.1 KB)

>>98138392

>>98138413
So only fluo magenta comes close, it seems.

>>98138423
Both VMC Pink and WPF Pixie Pink are pretty close?

>>98138437
They dont quite reach the saturation and vibrancy Im looking for, Im afraid.

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>>98138447
They're barely different anon, and I wouldn't fully trust that advert you posted either.

>>98137747
>>98137790
>>98137914
Can you post some examples of your work? I'm genuinely interested, since I don't know anyone who uses non-hobby paints.
Well, apart from craftsperg.

>>98137969
Why not use retarder?

>>98138392
Many Opera Rose paints (watercolors) have fluorescent pigments added, which gives them low lightfastness.

So yes, fluorescent magentas are the only type of hobby paints that will give you a very bright and vibrant result similar to Opera rose. Which, precisely, also have a low ightfastness.

>>98138146
Hypothetically speaking, could you mix them with some kind of acrylic medium so once dry they don't reactivate?
So instead of water you use some kind of glaze medium or lahmian or whatever

>>98135162
Sauce on these guys?

>>98138862
They're for Maleghast, made from WGA operators, agents and skeletons

File: 1646686293964.png (423.5 KB)

>>98131913
>really enjoyed last painting session
>busy weekend
>now finally got some free time to paint again
>lose all will to actually start painting
No matter how much older i become I still get this weird block hampering me and for the life of me I cant figure out where it comes from

>>98138392
https://www.liquitex.com/en-row/products/professional-acrylic-gouache-fluorescent-opera-pink

>>98138912
Do a short reset: Read a page from a book. Take a walk outside. Take a power nap. Organize your workspqce. Then, after the reset, set up your tools. If you still don't want to, it's fine. If you want to, then do.

When you don't habitualize a hobby, a prep ritual te get into the right mindset can be helpful. Mental blocks aren't that rare in people, and it's helpful to be aware of the fact that you'll sometimes get them, but they're also temporary things you don't have to let stop you from doing the thing.

File: lemanruss.png (6.0 MB)

>>98135988
Another angle after finishing most of the peeling

>>98137969
I would just get retarder

>>98139005
how would becoming dumb help with paint drying quick

>>98139007
Too stupid to realize that the paint is dry, therefore you could blend it still

>>98138983
>painted moldlines
: /

>>98139009
ork logic

>>98139102
I'll highlight them just to spite you

File: Sisterrrr.png (7.5 MB)

>>98137600
Best my phone can do.

>>98138983
Anon, don't get me wrong, but what exactly are you trying to achieve here?

File: Swordbrethren.jpg (80.6 KB)

>>98131913
Does anybody have a good guide on how to make good looking greenstuff robes. Like the ones they find on the Black Templar models?

>>98139326
look at the physical shape/geometry of the capes on the black templar models and recreate those same shapes with greenstuff.

>>98139326
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4-ygL90JIU8

>>98139326
Make a flat sheet of greenstuff
Let it cure for a bit, like 15-30 minutes
Attach it to the model and bend it into a flowing cape shape
Smooth out any fingerprints or anything you've created in that process and trim the edges clean with scissors

>>98139326
Use more yellow than blue and then mix in some milliput too.

File: IMG_20260601_093747.jpg (443.8 KB)

Got a Dire Mammoth friend for my Frost Giant on the way, also got some bears, boars, wolves and snow leopards printing too.
That covers Undead, Demons and Animals, now I neec some Monsters to round out my Frostgrave Bestiary, got good Snow Troll and Giant Spider sculpts, not sure what else to do for that set of 10.
Really had a hard time finding a Mammoth that fit thematically, mostly low-res ootions with a few very neatly armored ones and one that had flames for fur, so this guy with stones on his back was the best "wild" pick.

>>98135092
>>98134995

What the fuck? That is a fine red hair color.

>>98139294
If you can't figure that out I don't know what to tell you

>>98137688
If you have any leftover arms or bodies you can do a quick test model with your schemes in mind to see if it looks good or if you need some tweaks.

>>98137966
Nicely done, eyes are very well done.

>>98138824
Give it a try and let us know

File: sergeant.jpg (185.0 KB)

>>98138824
That makes mustard gas so I wouldn't try it

>>98139672
Jokes aside, most people confuse Chloramine Gas with Mustard Gas, actual Mustard gas is a special recipe that you are not going to accidentally reproduce at home with cleaning chemicals, while Chloramine Gas is still quite dangerous, it does not have the famous properties of Mustard Gas.

File: 1706908454969161.jpg (135.5 KB)

>>98139102
Oh, you mean the weld seams? Just seems like free texture to me.

File: 1780330725444.png (29.0 KB)

>>98139710

>>98139710
That is pretty fucked up actually.

>>98139827
We can be the change we want to see in the world.

I was just shaking a paint bottle, and it flung out of my hand, and into a vent without a grate on it (trying to increase the AC to this room), and now I can't get it out...

>>98140046
Need a wii wrist strap for those things.

>>98140046
I'm sorry to hear about your grip strength.

>>98137966
Reminds me of Pippi Panini or her mother

>>98138327
Griffon Claw is the TTC equivalent and it's such a vast improvement over the pot of Rakarth I have that I would never go back. That shit is chunky and probably a bad pot.

>>98139636
Ill try that

>>98140194
The pot of Rakarth I got was also completely dogshit so it's probably just a low quality paint, gotta keep the margins up after all. Griffon Claw is really, really similar and so much better quality-wise it's not even funny

>>98140137
I have flung my paints 3 times in the past 2 weeks, and it's never happened before. I genuinely think there might be something medically wrong with me that this is indicating. Like I probably have a brain tumor or something.

File: 20260601_101736.jpg (240.3 KB)

More tiny robots

File: 20260601_101857.jpg (299.5 KB)

>>98140306
And the family

>>98140194
>That shit is chunky
Definitely a bad pot, my rakarth is completely smooth and like AK and Pro Acryl the consistency is a touch too watery for my taste. Two thin coats is almost twice the price here for only 3ml more, pretty sure they're the worst deal of all the mainstream hobby brands.

>>98140342
>pretty sure they're the worst deal of all the mainstream hobby brands.
no, that's citadel

>>98140342
>Two thin coats is almost twice the price here for only 3ml more
Damn really? In my country TTC is like 10% more expensive than citadel and you get 3 ml more+a dropper+an actually good quality paint.

File: Kroq gar.jpg (1.0 MB)

I have been lurking these threads for quite a while now. Some of you are really talented. Sadly I will only ever be a middling painter.

>>98140451
>In my country TTC is like 10% more expensive than citadel

Which makes it pretty much twice the price than everything else on the market and usually those other brands have same or more paint per bottle too.

File: Lizardman.jpg (969.6 KB)

Here's my WIP (there are 9 similar)

>>98140476
You will with that attitude

Using an airbrush for the first time and it's constantly clogging.

I'm just using citadel paint and thinning it with water - do I need to get flow improver and airbrush thinner?

>>98140238
ngmi

doublesided tape on your broom handle

>>98140476
I like how you painted the horns on that decorative seat. It's patchy but horns do have splotched color like that.

File: Oldblood.jpg (919.7 KB)

But what I really wanted to ask you is what i should do here. I had an idea to stretch my Seraphon box by making the Oldblood even though the back of the torso and tail went on the carnosaur. I found some 20 year old green stuff I had to chew to get it mixed. Do I wait for it to dry before I start trying to chisel it off and revel any detail/ shape it?

>>98140497
You don't need to per se, but you should get both asap.

>>98140497
Citadel paints are a pain to dilute the first few times you're using an airbrush. Water doesn't work well, I'd recommend investing in tamiya thinner, which I think is the one that works the best with citadel.
Also if you're going regular with your airbrush, drop citadel paints and use vallejo with their thinner

>>98140500
It's around a bend though. Like it goes straight down for a couple of inches, and then does a 90 degree turn away from the wall, so I can't get a broom handle down there. Maybe I could try with something flexible though.

>>98140558
You can use Vallejo thinner with Citadel paints just fine. Acrylics are acrylics. I would recommend just getting Vallejo thinner instead of delving to Tamiya, since if anon is a beginner, he might want to avoid the whole alcohol or water-based thing for now.

>>98140510
Thanks! I can see now in that pic I missed a bit. Its ok from a standoff distance though. I might do an orange drybrush on the scales.

>>98140496
I have been painting for many years. My models are all too dark, I could never get them to really pop.

>>98140558
>tamiya thinner

Alcohol based thinner to water-based paints? They will turn into rubber within seconds.

>>98140659
Not inherently, there are exceptions (alcohol-based thinners that work with water-based paints). Though with Tamiya ones, you are completely correct.

Can someone recommend STLs for Battletech style mechs to print? Free would be great but I don't mind paying a few bucks.

>>98140722
Wrong thread, professional quality battletech mech stl's are already free everywhere as the MMO company allows them to be used freely.

What are the pros and cons of using regular acrylics, vs. ready made airbrush paints, vs. inks?

I'm getting ready to airbrush some vehicles and I'm going to pick up the paints this weekend probably.

>>98140722
/3dpg/ is where you would ask if you want actual results

>>98140748
You have to thin regular paints.
You don't have to thin airbrush paints.
You need to varnish your model after using inks.

>>98140783
NTA, realistically you often still have to thin airbrush paints, just less so.

>>98140429
TTC is £4.50 for a 15ml bottle (30p/ml)
Citadel is £2.75 for a 12ml pot (23p/ml)
AK and Scale Color are both £2.95 for a 17ml bottle (17p/ml)
Vallejo is £2.95 for an 18ml bottle (16p/ml)

>>98140799
what third world country do you live in where TTC is 4.50

>>98140613
>My models are all too dark, I could never get them to really pop.
Well if you know what the issue is and you have what seems like some desire to improve, why don't you fix the problem? Apply brighter highlights, clean up washes after you apply them, etc.

>>98140799
NTA but what's up with TTC being so much more expensive for you? Even in my shithole of a country you can get them for an equivalent of £2,90

>>98140451
I haven't shopped around to compare but from Wayland (usually ~10% off RRP):
Rakarth Flesh 12ml - £2.34 (0.195/ml)
Griffon Claw 15ml - £4.05 (0.27/ml)

It's so rare that I finish a pot of anything that price per ml doesn't even matter than much. AK and AP are usually under £3 for 18ml.

>>98135373
>>98135591

>>98140816
GBP are used in the UK, you know?

Here its similar:
TTC: 15ml - 4,20€
GW: 12ml - 3,50€
AK: 17ml - 2,60€
Scale75 17ml: 2,90€
Vallejo Game: 18ml 2,70€

Pretty much every other brand can be found around 2,50-3€, depending on the store. Just GW and TTC are above that.

>>98140659
>>98140675
which paints can you not thin with alcohol? I watched a bunch of videos for diy paint thinner using alcohol and windshield wiper fluid and I want to try it.

File: 02251.jpg (165.8 KB)

>>98140816
>>98140826
That's the price on the DRPA store. Those are all UK RRPs

Pro Acryl are also over £4 for 11ml of paint and a bonus 11ml of paint that gets wasted every time you close the top.

>>98140817
Not sure. Fear I guess. I washed down that carnosaur 3 times before I was happy with it, but it muted my red and I had to go back and pick out every one of those scales. It wants an orange drybrush but I worry I'll over do it.

>>98140879
I can get TTC for $4.00 a bottle
>>98140897
The secret is to not squeeze the bottle and let whatever wells up be the paint your put on the palette.

>>98140971
And I can get Citadel paints for £2.15 a pot. Discounts are going to vary a lot between retailers and over time, RRP is the only reasonable like-for-like comparison point

>>98140238
more likely carpal tunnel syndrome

About prices, for me it's:

>TTC 17.7 PLN
>Citadel 14.7 PLN
>Vallejo 10.7 PLN
>Army Painter 12.9 PLN
>AK 10.8 PLN

So I guess that TTC is simply expensive everywhere.

>>98141228
w internecie za TTC płacę 14 cebulionów

File: Kruleboy Banner Base and Oils.png (679.6 KB)

>poles are in this thread RIGHT NOW.


scary

>>98141236
>Polish
Extremely cute.
t. Pepik

>>98141375
>Pepik
love you guys

>>98141448
Much love, Polebro.

>>98141356
Hey anon, nice pole

File: Color Theory 2.png (738.5 KB)

>>98140476
>>98140491
>>98140900
Switch to a light grey primer instead of black, you will lose less vibrancy.
Do another thin coat of your gold to cover the primer peeking through, metallics usually take two thin coats for full opacity.
If you want shading from washes but still want vibrant paints you either need to highlight after the wash or do pinwashes in just the recesses.
To get colors to really pop without washing out your highlights you need to up contrast. For the blue skin you could do a dark green basecoat with the blue on top, or a dark purple, or even a dark orange or brown (brown is really just desaturated orange).
Pic related is a very basic color theory pic.

>>98141630
instead of all that learning, I just use AI

File: 1499325974782.jpg (43.4 KB)

>>98141356
>someone saved my pic

>>98141660
using it for inspiration on my own banna belcha, so thank you for the help, since i didnt get to thank you before

Liquitex white ink?
Or Tamiya Flat White XF-2?

>>98140613
Stop priming black

Primed, basecoated and washed. Once the wash dries I'll drybrush a lighter brown and then set to picking out thdetails, primarily the stones and tusks with this one. Lots of detail in the mini but nothing that calls for much colour variation.

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>>98142317

File: file.png (459.1 KB)

>>98138511
One of my archers. almost every element is using at least some artist acrylics. I use AK, PA as well as the art paint and usually use the art paint for their brightness and some properties like the yellow being able to freehand on the black hood.

File: DD179234-C4EA-4374-9E25-9D7FF6B2D35A.jpg (802.1 KB)

Any suggestions for a colour scheme for the weapon? First model for a new Kabal…

>>98142515
Soulstone colors?

>>98142515
>>98142556
I was going to say off white like a dark to medium ivory for wraithbone, as earth tones would go well with the green and red. But always good to double check.

File: IMG_20260601_180504.jpg (1.1 MB)

>>98142329
More washing, drybrushing and then highlighting yet to come.

>>98142618
yikes

>>98142515
A bright yellowish green power sword with gold fittings and a maroon handle.

File: TSF-052.jpg (710.3 KB)

Couple more halfling conversions i started today. The first is man at arms, featuring brigandine studded coat pauldrons and plate armor on the arms.

Second is another handgunner, this one is a little different though because I used a pistol from the empire outriders kit from gw as his arquebus. I think it works pretty good, maybe a little on the larger side but I don't think it looks out of scale or place relative to the rest of the figure. This approach is nice because I can use up those spare parts from the kits i bought years ago. I'm making a scratch-build organ gun out of some of them right now, too.

File: 20260601_195801.jpg (4.2 MB)

Making my own ghetto spraybooth. Is this enough of a cavity in the back to make like a vacuum, with this angle?

>>98142729
I think you need more of a seal around the filter. most diy designs I've seen have an actual wall between the front chamber and the back with a hole for the filter to sit in. maybe you can glue some felt or something around the edges of where your filter sits.

File: 20260531_123949.jpg (1.7 MB)

>>98131913
I did a retro-inspired bright color-scheme for my Ultramarines 500pt newb army, mostly because I don't like how dark the "real" blue is. And I want my models to pop when they purge the unclean at my LGS.

File: IMG_0110.jpg (1.2 MB)

Testing Petrifex Elite paint schemes, trying to figure out the best way to get the i side skulls painted to glow and then have dark bones on top. Testing with the little gargoyle before doing the big morghast or Zandtos. Any tips on what color the metal insignia on the shield should be? Bronze seems too close to the tan of bone edging on the shields and armor.

>Just received an order
>There's like 1 paint I needed that wasn't in stock when ordered
>Costs 10 fucking dollars on Amazon
God dammit I don't want to make another order for just one fucking paint.

>>98142926
I plan on putting more foam around it and then also spreading some caulk around it too to try to get it airtight. But before I do that, I wanna make sure that back cavity is big enough

File: Oldhammer_Pestigor.png (148.5 KB)

Anybody know any sculpting guides for converting regular human minis to beastmen?
I've been starting a pestigor project and keep running into good nurgle minis that don't have digitigrade legs. Figured it was a sign to finally learn some sculpting

File: IMG_20260601_205209.jpg (1.0 MB)

>>98142618
Some more progress.

>>98133179
Anon you need to go on ebay and grab yourself some HH2.0 heads. They are on a much smaller scale and will be more in-line with those stormcast bodies. Id also swap out the backpacks for non-primaris ones, as they are more slender as well. But your poses and conversion work is pretty on point, I dig the hammer guy.

File: IMG_4120.jpg (426.0 KB)

hello i want to paint word bearers. i dont know how to paint the armour.

heres my idea:

>khorne with a little bit of gal borvak red
>gal borbak shade
>highlight wazdakka?
>highlight squig orange?
>dot highlight cadian fleshtone?

what do you think? i want a result similar to the dow word bearers and…

File: IMG_3830.jpg (107.3 KB)

>>98143484
hard to find a good image without playing the game and getting screenshots myself but the bearers from fire warrior are an inspo as well

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im not a darn noob i just dunno what recipe to try. i think starting close to khorne red would be good, but then should i highlight into oranges, or flesh colours idk

>>98143545
If you want that kind of cool burgundy or maroon then you don't want to highlight with yellows or oranges, you want to go with a desaturated pink

>>98143291
if you caulk it in then you won't be able to easily replace it. I think the size doesn't matter as much as how the air flow is designed. the idea is to force air through the filter.

>>98141791
Definitely Tamiya, white ink clumps.
You could also consider Golden high flow white, it's a little more paint-y so it doesn't clump.

>new meta idea
Freehanding with water-mixable oils
>can wash it off partially or fully if you mess up (like the watercolor meta a while ago)
>but it will dry relatively quickly since it's so thin
>won't curl brush tips so you can use your nicest brushes without worrying
See you on youtube.

File: CE645CF9-BE33-428B-A59B-BBE3721DA9CB.jpg (1.0 MB)

>coolest sword in the box broke somehow
Fugg

Also, I’m having constant issues with my airbrush. I’ve been using 1:4:5 flow improver to thinner to paint. 25 psi.
It usually works well for a few passes, then gets clogged. I keep cleaning the tip with a wet brush every time I see paint on it but it still keeps clogging. I tried thinning further, but it ended up super wet and runny.

I’ve been rinsing the airbrush with distilled water when changing colors and using airbrush cleaner. I also make sure to press down on the trigger first before pulling back. Although when I look inside the airbrush I can see that the main chamber has some paint and is not bare metal. I’m leaving some airbrush cleaner in the cup overnight in the hopes that will help somehow.

Any advice?

>>98143821
>25 psi
crank it to 60+ and all your struggles will go away
you can put almost anything through the airbrush with 60+ psi

>cleaning the tip
stop the flow always before stopping the air and the tip won't get dirty

>I’m leaving some airbrush cleaner in the cup overnight in the hopes that will help somehow.
take your airbrush apart and give it a good clean. If you don't have the specialized airbrush cleaning brushes pick some up because they are really useful

>>98143821
what size is your nozzle? the smaller your needle the more you can thin your material. you might also just need to practice working with thinner paint.

It really baffles me how comes so many anons struggle with airbrushes.

>>98143821
I hate it when a sword breaks like that. It's a flaw in the plastic when it's injected. Looks like your's is salvagable though. A little glue and you're alright.

Is Vallejo Bloody Red any good?

File: IMG_2348.jpg (432.5 KB)

>>98144206
I use it to push my red in the brightest spots that aren't edges. I do enjoy it a lot.

>>98144206
Get Scarlett Blood instead
Bloody Red is ever so slightly more desaturated and bright (honestly its barely noticeable, but given the choice just go for the one thats slightly more saturated)

>t. red paint schizo

>>98144206
VGA bloody red was fine. I had no issues with it. Seemed worth the 3.50 I paid for it, according to the sticker I never removed from the bottle. I didn't try VGC but I imagine it's the same.